Pg 59 of the manual has should have this diagram: flashlamp.gif

The two longer ones in the middle are the 5 ohm ones. The outside shorter ones are the 330 ohm ones.

They don't look melted, looks like someone used some sort of glue on them. Perhaps because they are known to vibrate loose and desolder themselves. (they get pretty hot)

+1 those don't look melted, they really can't - they're cement resistors. Does look like some sort of glue. What you will often see is the leads break right where the lead goes into the cement body, from the stress of vibration. If you very gently pull on the resistor body and the resistor pulls away on one or both ends you've located this problem.

These resistors are notorious for breaking off.

So, what you do then, remove all the 330W (Warming resistors) and swap your #89's for LED versions then you no longer need them.

In my F-14 I used color matched PBL flashers. Wear sunglasses.

I thought about doing this. Game's so bright as it is I decided not to. Do you wear sunscreen with the glasses too?

I did the same, took all the 330's off and even replaced the 5 ohm with ones that have better thermal performance and are 15 watt rated. I don't want to have to worry about overheating again.

Yeah, you are just missing some in the middle of the pic, they must have broken right off.

The two missing flashers are intentional. Williams stopped putting them in because of shorting against the tom-cat targets. You can add them back in (I did). Here is a great video showing you how.

As far as nothing in the bottom of the cab, they could have fallen off years ago and been thrown away, I would replace them, might get some of those flashers working again. I think those are for the middle playfield target, are those working right now?

They planned on putting those flashers by the upper tom cat targets at one point but decided not to (I cannot remember why, maybe cost?) A lot of people add them back in later. You can probably find other threads on how to do this.

As far as the red flashers along the back, there are not resisitors behind them, pics below of what is behind them when you reach back there and remove it. The resisitors for it must be elsewhere but I am unsure where. I had some flashers out on mine when I got it, and you can see in pics the traces were all sorts of burnt, I had a friend jumper them and they worked perfect. The bulbs may just be out though, its a pain in the ass to replace them and a lot of people do not bother. To get at the little flasher board you need to reach behind there (blindly, cant see what you are doing) and there are two little wing nuts holding it in place, also you have to unplug the connector.

DSC_0311.JPG DSC_0312.JPG

The second pic above is the "before" repair pic, here is the after.

2012-12-14_20_17_24.jpg

I had to do that same fix on mine. That first etch gets way too much abuse.

Those 6 back flashers are sharing the resistors of the flashers on the playfield. One trick is you can put all LED flashers on the playfield, and leave those as incandescent, and you do not 'have to' remove the resistors to use LED flashers on the PF.

Yep. Mostly.

Some Williams and DE machines used 'warming' circuits to keep slight voltage to the #89 flashers just below the level where you can see them glow. That is those big cement resistors you see.

Problem is that with LED's needing so little power to turn on, the warming circuits cause them to show like the are always on.

If you go full LED flashers, you have to remove the 300ohm resistors.

However, if you have multiple incandescents on a circuit and leave one in and swap the other(s) to LED the load of the old bulb is enough to hold the voltage down so that the LED will not glow on. This is how my F-14 runs, I left all resistors in, left the old style bulbs in the domes on the back of the PF and all others swapped to LED.

I want to add all LED's to my F-14 Tomcat. You mention remove the 330 ohm warming resistors. Do I have to add wire to where there were installed?

No. Just pull them.

If you look at the schematic posted way bad, you will see the resistors sit between the bulb and ground and are just there to keep a small current draw. You want to remove the draw. A jumper would be a BIG draw

No, just remove them and leave the spot empty.

Thank you