Yeah, I think they are just different sizes.

Pin and compatibility wise they are exactly the same.
The early production ones has added 555 sockets to light the speaker panel area so they are physically larger in size.

And the larger size display panel on the early production F-14 models is what costs $350.00 to upgrade to a Pinscore PS-11415-F display.The $350.00 price tag is entirely due to low production number. It is only used on F-14 and Millionaire machines. Where as the later run F-14 models can be fitted with a $199.00 orange Pinscore PS-11610 display (other colors available if you want to pay extra). Also, Rottendog makes one for $150.00. Unless you want to unsolder and turn all the pin headers around and re solder them, you need the Pinscore PS-11415-F display on an early run F14.

_{Post edited by StylesBitchly: updated info}

Is there a documented process anywhere for this? I have an Millionaire with that setup and well... don't want it, lol.

I may have the same problem on F-14 and probably don't want that either.

**edit*

Went to check my F-14. version 554 #99457. . Someone put a "new" one in there that seems like it was working (they said in masking tape one of the panels doesn't work). One day I might try it when i get all the board back in and the wires hooked up. By far my worst machine.

At the moment, the pinwiki site doesn't have a whole lot of information on getting down and dirty with the displays. This should be useful though.....

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#display

I guess you tried the usual things like pulling the cables off and putting them back on again, or giving them a "wiggle"? The displays do go bad, but worth checking the above link first

Display boards are fairly easy to troubleshoot.

Refering to the display schematic.

U5, U1, U6, U2, U13, U12 and U9 are simply drivers for the displays - converts low voltage to high voltage to drive them. If you have a signal going in, it wil drive the corresponding segment.

U13 = player 1 & 2 display (extra characters), U12 = player 1 & 2 display (numeric characters only), U9 = player 3 & 4 display. U13, U12 and U9 are driven by non-inverting buffers for the inputs to the drivers (voltage in = voltage out).

U5, U1, U6 and U2 basically control which display is being updated.

U3, U4 ,U7, U8 are a TTL logic buffered NOR gate (datasheet here: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/CD/CD4011BC.pdf ) NOR gate truth table here: http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Projects/CAL/digital-logic/gatesfunc/index.html#norgate

Basically if you have both inputs low you will get a high output, so for U8, pin 12 and 13 have to be low to geta high output on pin 11.

So measure voltage at each input and see if the output corresponds - if not bad chip (make sure you check the voltage supply is present on the IC's as well).

You also need to check to make sure you have high voltage for the displays as well: R10, R12, R14 and R17 should have +90v while R11, R13, R15 and R16 should have -100v.

Hopefully that makes some sense.

No, I haven't done this. There is a thread here on Pinside all about it and that was the solution for fitting the less expensive PS-11610 display into an early run F14.
The problem is that the less expensive PS-11610 display's wiring connectors hit the H channel below the translite. The only way to fit it without setting the display LED's farther back from the speaker grill window, is to reverse the wire connectors.
I am afraid to drop the money on a display only to void the warranty and find out the soldering is not achievable. Some solder points are quite small.

_{Post edited by StylesBitchly: updated info}

LongJohns
Are the U chips driving my pinscore as well. I am having intermittent LED segments on Player 1 and 2 windows. Or is this a problem with the Pinscore display board?

Sorry not familiar with the pinscore display.

The U chips I mentioned above are located on the original scoreboard - if you replaced the OEM board with a pinscore one, then you don't have those chips (they would be using some other driver chips for LED's). I would guess you have a problem with the pinscore unit.

There is a thread here on Pinside all about fitting the less expensive PS-11610 display into an early run F14.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-model-f-14-display-question

I would just buy the Rottendog display (your choice of colors for $150.00). Big Daddy has them. People have mounted these using a simple home made bracket and the display only sits back from the speaker panel glass about 3/4". 1/2" if you move a capacitor to the back side of display. Not a problem according to one guy I talked to. FYI, the $350.00 Pinscore for early F14 also sits back from the window about 1/4".

_{Post edited by StylesBitchly: updated info}

Didn't PinScore Displays come with a 5 year warranty, or are you outside of that time frame?

Pretty sure Marco covers the Displays even if you're not the original purchaser as long as you can verify their age being under 5 years. There should be a date stamp on them somewhere.

Best of luck !!

Pin - K

I have contacted Pinscore via email yesterday and waiting for reply. I don't know if it was purchased from Marco

Well, I did call Marco and they said that the warranty is not transferable. Original owner only.

Hey Look!
A cheaper option than Pinscore for early run F14. And probably better quality!

XPin XP-WMS11415-F

$239.00

http://www.xpinpinball.com/shop/product/xp-wms11415-f

I know it's late in posting this, but my Pinscore problems with digit segments not illuminating intermittently was caused by power source putting out low voltage on the 5 volt rail.

Was this on the power board?

I'd like to know more about this as well. There's a big price difference between the two models X-Pin offers ($199 for late vs. $289 for early). I don't know what version my machine is, but it does have all 3 sockets present for the light domes. Without visually checking I would guess it's an early game.

It appears to be a late model. The number of connectors I have matches the headers on the less expensive board. The mounting holes on the smaller late production board also line up with my speaker panel.

I was wrong, the additional connector on the early X-Pin display isn't populated. I have the clear flasher domes in the back, a clear center topper dome, individual 44 sockets for the inserts, a 4 digit serial number that starts with 9, and a 554 model number.

Now my question is, can I order the less expensive late model display from X-Pin and flip the headers to the other side of the board to ensure a flush fit? Here is my speaker panel. I don't have the manual to check the original display's part number. I sold the original 7 years ago and no longer have the photos.
DSC_0284 (resized).JPG

Bump. Has anyone installed a late display in an early F-14?