I have read some of the older Forum threads on this topics and am still wondering how to run the speaker cable out of the cabinet to the subwoofer .It seems that some hole has to be made in the bottom of the cabinet, or one of the mesh grills has to be cut either on the bottom or back of the cabinet.Are these the only solutions ?Are there any ways to run the cable out without modifying the cabinet ?
Quoted from vid1900:Often there are some vents in the back corners.
Lift a staple and you can pass the wire through without any real modification.
Good.No major modification.Thanks.
On mine I make a cable that is about 6 inches long made from 1/2 of an old audio cable. One end leave the RCA FEMALE jack, other end put a set of small alligator clips.
Remove 2 of the 4 nuts holding down the cab speaker.
Loosen the other 2 bolts.
List the speaker up on one side including the grill.
Route the cable end with the FEMALE RCA on it out the cab.
Clip the alligator clips to the speaker.
Replace/tighten all nuts.
Now what you will end up is about 3 inches on cable with a female jack sitting in the recess under the cab where the speaker is. Easy spot to plus in a cable to the sub. And being in the recess it will not get in the way of a pin lifter.
I started making them for all my machines so its a simple act of unpluging the cable to the woofer and moving it from machine to machine.
Quoted from stretch2:Are there any ways to run the cable out without modifying the cabinet ?
Also, you will have less distortion if you run from the cabinet speaker to the Speaker Input on the sub's panel. Don't use the RCA input unless your game has a low level output jack.
The Speaker Input is designed to take the higher signal levels that the cab speaker connection delivers.
Quoted from vid1900:Often there are some vents in the back corners.
Lift a staple and you can pass the wire through without any real modification.
On my Tron, all I did was slide a small screwdriver under the screen. I didn't even need to lift a staple. The wires snaked right through the gap and it sounds great.
It would be nice to have a connector on the cabinet for the sub. Then instead of pushing the cable back in the cabinet to move it, then you just have to disconnect the speaker wire.
I push my speaker cable thru the same opening as the power plug. I've yet to see a stern machine that this doesn't work on.
Quoted from huo:It would be nice to have a connector on the cabinet for the sub.
http://www.parts-express.com/round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-7-8-gold-spring-loaded--260-276
You could put a flush mount speaker jack on the cab.
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:I push my speaker cable thru the same opening as the power plug. I've yet to see a stern machine that this doesn't work on.
Same here.
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:I push my speaker cable thru the same opening as the power plug. I've yet to see a stern machine that this doesn't work on.
Me too.
I've typically pried up a staple on the rear bottom vent for the non-permanent approach. However yesterday I just said heck with it and drilled a small hole through it. My IJ sounds awesome with an external sub, so it's unlikely I'll ever go without it. Those little screens are available ... It's not like some rare/NOS part you'll be hunting down later.
Quoted from huo:It would be nice to have a connector on the cabinet for the sub. Then instead of pushing the cable back in the cabinet to move it, then you just have to disconnect the speaker wire.
Why would you have to push the cable back in the cabinet to move it? Disconnect at external sub and wrap it up. Really simple.
Has anyone tried connecting a passive (not powered) sub-woofer? You could put it inside the cabinet and just leave it there....... 
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Has anyone tried connecting a passive (not powered) sub-woofer? You could put it inside the cabinet and just leave it there.......
You'd need an amplifier, maybe not as over the top as this one. I would have a little concern that the vibration puts a lot of stress on the game if you get too crazy. Might even shatter your backglass.
Quoted from wayout440:You'd need an amplifier, maybe not as over the top as this one. I would have a little concern that the vibration puts a lot of stress on the game if you get too crazy. Might even shatter your backglass.
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What game do you have that in? Looks like a system 11
WOW!! whatta set-up. What game is that on?
Where are you getting power for all of that!?
You could use a car amp, and sub-woofer, not too large that way.....someone installed a plug in one of my pins so I'm guessing I could plug it in there???
-Nate
Quoted from wayout440:You'd need an amplifier, maybe not as over the top as this one. I would have a little concern that the vibration puts a lot of stress on the game if you get too crazy. Might even shatter your backglass.
I am thinking the tilt bob must be disabled in this game or extremely liberal. With all that vibration how can anyone finish a ball?
What I do on mine is install a little 1/8" jack in one of the corner vents. Then I just plug it in to that jack and then it goes to bare wires and the speaker input on the sub. I need to disconnect the sub i just pull the plug out and the cable stays with the sub.
I do not run my speaker wire thru the same hole as the power wire if I can avoid it. There is a chance that you could pick up ground interference noise that way. I run my wire under a grill on the bottom of the cabinet or back wall. Just use a screwdriver to gently pry up one corner while you feed the wire thru. No holes to drill. Nothing is disturbed and it can be removed without damage whatsoever. Nobody can tell that it was ever done. I have done it to my ACDC, Big Guns, and Space Shuttle with no issues! Rock On! 
Quoted from huo:It would be nice to have a connector on the cabinet for the sub. Then instead of pushing the cable back in the cabinet to move it, then you just have to disconnect the speaker wire.
Quoted from vid1900:http://www.parts-express.com/round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-7-8-gold-spring-loaded--260-276
You could put a flush mount speaker jack on the cab.
Awesome ideas! Bought 2 for my two pins. Thanks for the awesome tips. Peace!
Hi guys, were a few weeks away from unveiling a factory plug in option to the Stern Sam sound board for powered subwoofer hook ups. This will give you a direct audio signal feed off the amp. Plug n play, you can run rca connection out the back of the head or down the cabinet vent hole.
Thanks,
Lorenzo
Pinnovators.com
Quoted from wayout440:You'd need an amplifier, maybe not as over the top as this one. I would have a little concern that the vibration puts a lot of stress on the game if you get too crazy. Might even shatter your backglass.
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Holy Cow Batman!!!!
Hi, friends at pinside forum
Last month I received this tiny board that Lorenzo mentioned in this thread from pinnovators.com (I purchased the wire by myself to avoid shipping costs to Europe, but it´s nearly identical to the one they supply).
P1100246.JPG
The board fits this way in the backbox, you can guide the output wire to the amp through the vent holes very easily (the other wire you can see here it´s an HDMI one from a DMD EXTENDER):
P1100805.JPG
We connected it to a Pioneer A-204 Amplifier and two Sanyo 3-way-speakers with great results in a little tournament he had here in Granada, Spain:
P1100746 MoPLE-HIFISTEREO-63.jpg
There was a little background noise (almost unheardable, only at a very high volume), but I think attaching one of this filters around the sound wire the hiss would dissapear completely:
Filtro antiparasitario FR-8050.JPG
The combination is perfect for the public, they can have a great audio and video experience, enjoying a final without disturbing the players:
20140920_123834.jpg
IMG_2546_zps5b0deca0.JPG
Of course you can attach the output of the tiny board to an external subwoofer, but I can tell you this way the atmosphere were outstanding.
THANKS TO THE STAFF AT PINNOVATORS FOR THIS PRODUCT!
All the best
Jesus/elo_rey/killing
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Sana'a
Tilton, NH
Edmonton, AB
Sevilla