(Topic ID: 158548)

External Subwoofer and Upgraded Sub?


By delt31

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 46 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by Nickson
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    #1 3 years ago

    I put an updated pinball pro speaker set in my table and it def sounds much better than stock - well worth it. I'm wondering how much of a diff would adding an external too. Anyone do this or is this just overkill?

    #2 3 years ago

    I just add an external. The internal amps were never meant to drive speakers that hard. An external sub has its own amp and puts no extra stress on the sound board.

    #3 3 years ago

    I always add an external powered sub, less vibrations coming from the machine.

    #4 3 years ago

    Depends on the game. MS Frankstein, No Fear, T2 - hell yeah, an external sub is way awesome.

    #5 3 years ago

    Have a polk powered sub on every pin and its one my favorite mods .... neighbors probably don't think so lol..

    #6 3 years ago

    I'll need to check it out. Are you guys turning off the internal sub and just rolling with external?

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    I'll need to check it out. Are you guys turning off the internal sub and just rolling with external?

    I actually like keeping the stock speaker in and on with the powered sub bc the stock is a full range woofer and gives off lots of mids and voice.

    #8 3 years ago

    interesting. What about the pinball pro sub. Would you keep that in with the external sub?

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    interesting. What about the pinball pro sub. Would you keep that in with the external sub?

    I really don't think both the pp sub ahd external are needed ... what game? Hook up the polk psw 10 sub and stock woofer ,and you will understand I think lol

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    I'll need to check it out. Are you guys turning off the internal sub and just rolling with external?

    I make a speaker cable with alligator clips on one end and then attach the clips to the speaker. Sounds better with the extra cab speaker on with the sub and if I have the sub switched to another game then I still have good sound. A good sub with have two inputs so you can have two pins using one sub.

    Here's a tip - check your local yard sales, Craigslist and flea markets for cheap, brand name subs. I frequently pick them up for $20-$30. No need at all to spend $90-100 for an on-sale sub.

    #11 3 years ago

    thanks for the suggestion. I would love to do the one sub connected at all times to two tables. What sub do you recommend for that and where do you suggest I buy the alligator clip cord from as I want to follow the same approach.

    #12 3 years ago

    Sub has to have two inputs to connect two pins. Take a speaker wire and solder (or attach) gator clips to the other end to clip to the cabinet speaker - other ends go to the sub.

    #13 3 years ago

    anyone have a link to a good stereo cable with alligator clips attached? Some of the ones I found look like poor quality and not interested in soldering to normal wire.

    #14 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    anyone have a link to a good stereo cable with alligator clips attached? Some of the ones I found look like poor quality and not interested in soldering to normal wire.

    Are you going to Allentown? Ill make you one and bring it to the show for you?

    #15 3 years ago

    Your other option for connecting the sub is here.
    http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=38

    That's for the Sam system but there's others if you need...

    Personally I wouldn't do speakers just a powered sub is enough

    #16 3 years ago

    Powered 10" polk and your done...

    #17 3 years ago

    Polk 10" is the most popular and best for the money

    #18 3 years ago

    Do I need to say more....love those bad boys. Tried the flipper fidelity sub in the cabinet but too much rattle with the glass. I use Polk 10'' 100 watts. That enough for what it does.

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    #19 3 years ago

    yeah this polk sub seems like the def go too. I already purchased and installed the pinball pro speaker and sub so I'll likely just keep that in the machine (maybe disconnect the sub) if I end up buying the sep sub. At this point, I'll buy one to try it out. Found a used one for 75 but I don't think it's a very good deal. Number of others selling them but not local and shipping kills it.

    #20 3 years ago

    I bought 3 for 330 $ at my best buy last year. They were at 30 % off. The one you see in the middle is a Lancaster coming from my theater room.

    I kept the internal sub in my machines but instead of plug them in high, in plug those in low frequency. Less rattle in the glasses. The sound is better anyway than the stock stern cheap speakers.

    #21 3 years ago

    Also, you can hook 2 games up to 1 sub and play both games at the same time

    #22 3 years ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Also, you can hook 2 games up to 1 sub and play both games at the same time

    Not all subs but with the Polk you can.. It has a left and a right channel. Some subs don't they have just one...if it has one channel you need a mixer to add more then one to it

    #23 3 years ago

    So I have just enough room for 3 pins. And I usually play alone so only one machine would be on at a time. Could I just wire 3 pins to the same Polk 10" external sub and just double up on one of the inputs? Or would that cross the signal up and feed it back into the other pin?

    Would it be better to have some sort of selector A B C switch to wire in before the sub?

    Rick

    #24 3 years ago

    On old AV switchbox ABC selector would work perfectly fine. Good idea actually...I have a few switchers in the attic with all my old electronics and will do this since I included a sub when I sold T2 and am down to 3 subs now.

    #25 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    yeah this polk sub seems like the def go too. I already purchased and installed the pinball pro speaker and sub so I'll likely just keep that in the machine (maybe disconnect the sub) if I end up buying the sep sub. At this point, I'll buy one to try it out. Found a used one for 75 but I don't think it's a very good deal. Number of others selling them but not local and shipping kills it.

    I had the pinball pros installed and hooked up a polk audio and it didn't work with both hooked up. I got no sound from the polk. So I ripped the pin pro sub out and rehooked the stock speaker back in and it worked. You probably will have to take the pin pro out

    #26 3 years ago

    hmmm good to know. I was just playing and that pinball pro works well. Not even sure I will do this then. Did it require you to install the stock speaker and sub or just stock sub?

    #27 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    hmmm good to know. I was just playing and that pinball pro works well. Not even sure I will do this then. Did it require you to install the stock speaker and sub or just stock sub?

    You will not need to take out the Pinball Pro sub. In fact there is an external sub connection right on the pinball pro sub for you to hook to.

    #28 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballpro:

    You will not need to take out the Pinball Pro sub. In fact there is an external sub connection right on the pinball pro sub for you to hook to.

    Shoot. Good to know. Will have to put it back in and see how they sound together

    #29 3 years ago
    Quoted from Rickwh:

    So I have just enough room for 3 pins. And I usually play alone so only one machine would be on at a time. Could I just wire 3 pins to the same Polk 10" external sub and just double up on one of the inputs? Or would that cross the signal up and feed it back into the other pin?
    Would it be better to have some sort of selector A B C switch to wire in before the sub?
    Rick

    If you look at my pinsmx box on my site it does exactly what your looking for... It has four isolation transformers built in to protect each games amp from the other.....it has four adjustable potentiometers to tailor the output of each game to that one sub. And it allows you to play one or all four games at the same time.. Set it up and never touch it again.. Every time you turn on the game it's ready to go

    http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=58&osCsid=kku6hs8onck3llosrhr3ugav54

    #30 3 years ago
    Quoted from Blackstorm:

    Shoot. Good to know. Will have to put it back in and see how they sound together

    Report back - interested to hear.

    #31 3 years ago

    anyone have experience with a POLK PSW350? Seems the same size and might be even more powerful. I ask b/c local person has one for sale...

    #32 3 years ago

    So I just bought the PSW350 - it really shakes. Twice the output power of the PSW10 and esentially the same size (little heavier)... now the question is how I connect it. My TZ really doesn't have a good place to put the cord through so I might need to drill a hole unless you guys have other suggestions.

    As for hookup, I believe the positive and negative go into the last two slots of the 1st row on the sub (which goes +--+) then the other ends go to the subwoofer hookup - prob via alligator clips which I don't have. What I currently have are ends that are straight brass and might be able to be curled to hold onto the existing sub hookup (pinball pro TZ). Any suggestions, lmk.

    #33 3 years ago

    Normally I loosen the cabinet speaker to allow the cable to slide under it and then tighten it back up. If you have speaker mesh cover the cabinet opening, then you'll need to get the cable under that as well.

    #34 3 years ago

    I have a polk hooked up to ACDC right now. When I first got it, I just curled the wires around the in-cab speaker and it was fine. Eventually I found some alligator clips and was able to attach them to the wire in a secure way without needing to solder them. I threaded the wires under the mesh and out the venting holes in the back of the cab. Works great.

    I read in another thread that you can connect four games to one sub, because the game audio is mono anyway (and there are four ports in the back of the sub (two sets of L & R inputs). Anyone try three or four? I would think it should work fine, though I suppose it would become muddled if you were playing them all at the same time?

    #35 3 years ago
    Quoted from delt31:

    So I just bought the PSW350 - it really shakes. Twice the output power of the PSW10 and esentially the same size (little heavier)... now the question is how I connect it. My TZ really doesn't have a good place to put the cord through so I might need to drill a hole unless you guys have other suggestions.
    As for hookup, I believe the positive and negative go into the last two slots of the 1st row on the sub (which goes +--+) then the other ends go to the subwoofer hookup - prob via alligator clips which I don't have. What I currently have are ends that are straight brass and might be able to be curled to hold onto the existing sub hookup (pinball pro TZ). Any suggestions, lmk.

    On the Pinball Pro crossover you will see a little blue box with screws, speaker wire can be run from that blue box (on the left, closest to the spades which are already hooked up) into your external sub.

    #36 3 years ago
    Quoted from ryanwanger:

    Anyone try three or four? I would think it should work fine, though I suppose it would become muddled if you were playing them all at the same time?

    That's what I would guess too. That's why a simple switchbox should do the trick if you had one sub w/ one input and then can select which pin is using the sub. I'm going to do that and test it out because I have switchboxes already and a label printer.

    #37 3 years ago

    Here is the connector I am referring to (J2)

    image_(resized).jpg

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballpro:

    Here is the connector I am referring to (J2)
    image_(resized).jpg

    super helpful - thanks!

    I'm assuming the screws are then used to hold the wire in place (which I manually screw "down" to hold in the wire)? Also - the other end of the wire should go into 1 negative and 1 positive on the back of the polk. On the back of mine there are two rows of inputs (+--+, +--+) - does it matter which -,+ I hook into?

    #39 3 years ago

    So I just get everything hooked up - holy shit huge difference. Must play more but for those who never tried - this is def a must try.

    #40 3 years ago
    Quoted from lllvjr:

    Your other option for connecting the sub is here.
    http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=38
    That's for the Sam system but there's others if you need...
    Personally I wouldn't do speakers just a powered sub is enough

    I have that on my Sterns with powered subs and I can clearly hear a big difference compared to using alligator clips. Some don't hear it but I do cuz I had to turn my subs volumes way down from using the clips.

    #41 3 years ago

    I use the 2 hole in the rear bottom corners where the vent hole stuff is. I open up one of the holes in that screen and mount a 1/8" mono jack and inside the machine i wire that to the cabinet speaker. The sub has a cable that is wires on one end and the 1/8 on the other end. So if i need to move it i just pull the cable out and move it then plug it back in with out having to open the machine.

    #42 3 years ago

    Have a active subwoofer hooked up to my MET and AcDc and this is great. It's a must to fully enjoy the music

    Mine are hooked up permanent via soldering so the connection is a solid one

    And they are hooked up together to one subwoofer having stereo input. So L goes to one pin and R to the other

    #43 3 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I have that on my Sterns with powered subs and I can clearly hear a big difference compared to using alligator clips. Some don't hear it but I do cuz I had to turn my subs volumes way down from using the clips.

    no soldering, no crimping, plug n play easy to remove or install

    image_(resized).jpeg

    image_(resized).jpeg

    2 years later
    #44 9 months ago
    Quoted from lllvjr:

    no soldering, no crimping, plug n play easy to remove or install

    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Bumping an old thread but great product, finally decided to get a few. Just put the SAM subwoofer out kit in my SMVE. Easy to hook up and paired it to my Polk 10” sub. Sounds awesome

    -1
    #45 9 months ago

    Alternatively a PAC SNI-35 (or similar) hooked up to the Sub speaker (alligator clips or soldered).
    A third of the price and works great providing an RCA output, which the external Sub can be connected to.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-different-approach-to-external-bass-amp-subwoofers

    #46 9 months ago

    i have a pinball pro speaker on my transformers and really like it. it came with it but i might switch it to another game if i get a music themes pin

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