Try this...report back.
Place the game in coil test.
Balls out.
PF vertical.
Meter on DC volts, or 200DC.
Black on transformer assembly metal case where grounds attach.
Red on either lug of coils that aren't firing.
What DC power do you read?
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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Happy to help.

Hmmm. The issue you added sounds a bit more serious.

One more power test.
Same setup.
Test one of the known working coils to ensure we are testing correctly.

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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Yes. That's correct. That coil is nominally 24VDC.
Without schematics, I can't offer a guess. The "Playboard controlled Solenoids" page of the manual is what we need, and I don't have the Excalibur manual.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

All of the drops are fused by F13, a 2 amp slo-blo fuse.
Remove that fuse. It's under the PF.
Buzz it with your meter for continuity.

I bet you will find it blown.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Under the same conditions, test for power on both sides of fuse F13.

Those wires aren't the problem. They may have contributed to a short that blew a fuse but they aren't in circuit with the coils.

Work your way back through the circuit, testing for power in the same way until you find the discontinuity.

Make sense?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info