(Topic ID: 104378)

Everybody Underground Now! ~ Twister Club

By LunaStone

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 570 posts
  • 93 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 days ago by Gunnut40
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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#352 3 years ago

Hi all. Just joined the club (refurb needed) and waiting for it to arrive to do a proper assessment. Does anyone know where i can buy a playfield decal set including tornado? I see the only place doing plastic sets is out of germany. Cheers. Steve

#353 3 years ago

Hi again, I am planning to do some artwork repair around the spin plate. Does anyone already have or would be willing to take a high resolution picture of that area to act as a decal of sorts between clear coats? Thanks in advance for any help.

#354 3 years ago

Hi guys, I am looking at running a high power fan using a solid state relay and different power supply for the fan. From experience, can anyone confirm the output on J8-6 (brown/green) for Twister is 20V DC to drive the motor relay board? I had assumed AC was used. I have only ever worked on older Data Easts.

#355 3 years ago

Has anyone put a plug and play shaker motor in their Twister? Seems like it would be a great upgrade for the theme but wondering if over time the vibration may cause wear to the spinner disc/motor/gear assembly.

1 week later
#359 3 years ago

Hi all, if anyone has a Twister and get the time could you please confirm if this is an original part or a mod? Looks like a spring wire added to a post to stop a ball being caught/resting between a post and a pop bumper? Thanks.

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#361 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Original Part, common sega part used on apollo13 aswell and maybe others

Cheers, thanks for letting me know. Seems odd as the design seems to lend itself to scratching the play field!

#362 3 years ago

Hi all, another question if anyone can answer. Did Sega make there Super VUK assemblies out of galvanised sheet metal? Looks well made but out of place from all of the other's. Thanks in advance for any info.

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#365 3 years ago

I have mine out at the moment. Looks like the shaft has worn through the casing on yours?

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#367 3 years ago

It could be a slipping retaining screw for the plate or freeplay/slack in the motor shaft assembly due to wear over the years. One is an easy fix, not sure what can be done with the freeplay if that is the issue.

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#370 3 years ago

Hi All, hoping anyone out there can confirm if there running the 520-5137-00 I/O Power Driver board? I am bringing a scrapheap unit back to life and not sure if this board is compatible? The manual states the Twister uses 520-5137-01 not the 00. Appreciate any confirmation their Twister is running the older 00. Thanks.

#371 3 years ago

Hi all, Does anyone have one of these on their twister machine? It was in the cabinet loose when i started the refurb. Cheers. Steve.

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#372 3 years ago

If anyone has technical knowledge on Twister and can help, I have magnet question. I am unsure if the top magnet pin located in the orbit is supposed to be exposed level with the playfield? Or if it should be positioned underneath a thin timber veneer in the playfield like in Goldeneye? Also unsure how that magnet is supposed to behave? I.e. does it just catch and just drop the ball or launch out of the orbit? It looks like the playfield i have may have been modified as i see a rough cut and years of wear on the magnet pin from sitting slightly proud. If anyone can let me know that would be great. Steve.

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#373 3 years ago

Just noticed the stainless ramp protectors actually stop shy of the end of the ramp. Has anyone ever modified these to completely protect the ramp? I would say I might make all the difference. Too late in my case!

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#376 3 years ago

If it helps I checked on a new motor. There is zero slack in the shaft/gear so technically the spinning disk (if fastened correctly) should not move up or down during operation regardless if the C clip there or not. Wear on the spacer located between the gear and the housing will introduce slack "up". Wear in the bushing for the shaft will cause slack "down".

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#377 3 years ago

If anyone is thinking of giving a tired and worn playfield a spruce up, i was able to air brush a very small amount of createx black around the worn timber and it came up great.

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#379 3 years ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

You should get the Cliffy protector

Yeah i have spoken with Cliff. A worthy addition to any Twister although i don't have it perfectly flush yet. I may need to do some more work and waiting to see how it actually plays when running. I was also looking at options to blacken the stainless steel so it isn't as prominent.

1 month later
#381 3 years ago

Hi all,

Hard to find much information on Twister out there! Guess that's what happens when only 1600 units were ever made. Hopefully someone here can help. Trying to identify what the yellow cable pictured is for? Seen them in some pictures of other machines but my machine does not have one. Also would appreciate a picture or just confirmation of what way the looms are fed into up into the back box from the main cab. Both on the right hand side? Thanks in advance for any help.

Not far off powering this one up! Was a mess when i got her, so hopefully it still works.

Steve

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#384 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Is that the ground strap maybe? I no longer own Twister, but my HRC which is also a whitestar has one. It connects to the speaker panel and dmd.
Edit- he beat me to it.

Thanks O-din.

#385 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Don't have my game anymore, but pretty sure those are ground wires for the high voltage display

Thanks Toyota.

I have powered up for the first time since posting and cannot get the dmd to work at all. Can't see anything to turn the sound down! She must boot on 100% volume.. so LOUD...

#387 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Yes both cable looms feed up on the rhs because if the size of the Dorothy Canister model on the left
Yellow Ground straps are for dmd controller board and and speaker panel ground connection

Thank you for confirming. Sounds like a stupid question but the lack of a grounding strap shouldn't result in the DMD not working? I have set up some shielded braid like the Data East's.

#390 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

It shouldn't stop the dmd work ing no, as the ground for the dmd and dmd driver comes from other connectors, but it's there to stop noise and interference mostly so should be added
I would check your 3 pin power connector to the dmd driver board is making a good connection. This is the +5v and Gnd for the dmd driver board. Have you also confirmed that your dmd is good? is it a gas one or colour dmd /led one?

Luckily i have a working DE and a few spares eliminate possibilities. I have tested the voltages to be good for the 3 pin (+5v ground) connecting to the dmd controller. When using a known to be good old DMD, I get a glitchy display when the ribbon cable is disconnected. When using the ColorDMD i get nothing. I can replicate the glitchy screen using a working Data East machine by removing the ribbon cable.

When the the ribbon cable is connected on the Twister board i get nothing on the display.

It feels like there needs to be a signal of some sort to allow the DMD to display. This goes against some of the advice however, that a dmd and controller will display on boot-up even if the ribbon cable is removed.

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#391 3 years ago

Hello all,

Testing the waters to see how many would be interested in a new Twister ramp?

It may be possible to have a new batch made if the demand is there.

Cheers

#395 3 years ago
Quoted from Magadovski:

Here is the final episode of my twister project, with gameplay and review.

Nice one Carl.

#397 3 years ago

So close to completion..... almost time to go underground!

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#398 3 years ago

Working on some custom toppers

1 month later
#404 3 years ago

Hi all,

Can anybody confirm if they are running the newer 520-5300-00 CPU board in Twister without any sound issues?

Thanks,

Steve

#406 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

What is the general consensus of how many Twisters SEGA made? I remember reading 1200 years ago but I can't find anything on it now.

1600 is the number i have heard a few times unofficially

1 week later
#411 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Nope, all switches are good. It knows it drained and the mode ends, the display goes back to normal and targets behave normally, its just that the spinner and music don't stop.

The fact the music remains on but the display and targets go back to normal makes me think it's a logic based problem, might be a corrupted or poorly mounted IC? Spinner problem could be your magnet board (assuming the diode upgrade has been done). The IC might be bad, I have read those can be corrupted from time to time.

#414 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Thanks for the reply,
The resistor in the connector upgrade has been done, but not sure about the diode- what does that upgrade entail?
Both magnets behave as they should, so I'm not sure that is what the issue is.
I was thinking I'd burn new roms and see if that does anything. I read 4.05 is the highest software and mine is 4.04.

Sega Service Bulletin 91

Has an additional zenner diode added to the magnet board. Although the symptoms listed are not what happening to your game. Intermittent activation of the motor during play.
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1 week later
#416 3 years ago

Twister topper in progress.. running 3v at the moment but can crank to 12v for full speed...

2 weeks later
#424 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I thought you guy might be interested in this comparison between the Dorothy sensor in the Pinball and an original Screen Used one from the movie.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Nice! Well done getting your hands on one.

#427 3 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I've had that for about 12 years, I've been a fan of Twister for a long time.

Very cool. Thanks for sharing. The pinball version isn't massively different! Was fairly surprised. Looks like the lower half of the sphere is reflective finish in the real thing?

#428 3 years ago
Quoted from Beechwood:

That cow though!!! Where did you get that?
Pretty darn cool!

I modified a cow toy I found on the internet. Originally it was quite annoying, a loud tinny Mooo! Mooo! Mooo! every 2 seconds and glowing red eyes as it walked.. I think Amazon may have some? Dismantled to change the front legs and tail position, disabled the speaker and eyes leaving the just mechanical kicking. Slip ring used for the 3v wiring to rotate around the motor. Plastic repair putty and a threaded hex post to help secure the cow to the motor and presto... Twister Cow

1 month later
#436 2 years ago

Hi all,

I am still on the lookout for a ramp that is in salvageable condition to use for a mold. I am sure there are plenty of Twisters out there in need of a new ramp, she is a fast game and the original ramp was not as thick as some of the other Ramps out there from that era.

Unfortunately Twister doesn't seem to be on anyone's "to do" list as far as ramp reproductions go. So if anyone has any ideas on who to contact it would be appreciated?

I will use mine if the damage gets worse but as it isn't garunteed molding will work, I don't want to take the risk of being left with a ramp-less game.

Still looking/learning as to what options are best for a mold. Maybe making a cast from the right material.

#438 2 years ago
Quoted from Magadovski:

i should ask "ramp-o-matic he does "hard to find" ramps
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-o-matic-ramp-thread
//Carl
Checkout my Pinball restorations videos on
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzsJ0aaaKVhsdxDmzBhdy4Q

Thanks Carl. Will. Follow it up.

#440 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Back in the Twister club with my old pin.
She needs some work
Have a string of GI lights out
Autolaunch coil is randomly firing
Center twister is almost never spinning with new apple juice board and old board that still worked. Magnet is working and locking up nicely. Did the “dr pinball” on it tonight and the result was “replace I/o board” so it’s time to bust out the manual and see what’s wrong in the circuit. Grounded Q6 and didn’t spin. Found 24V (on 20v circuit) on j6-p10 and j7-p1.
The fan sounds like a pissed off weed eater.
Once I get it up and going she’ll get stripped down and rerubbered. Last pin I did in Titan all blacks. Anyone done anything different? I gave up on white. Too hard to keep clean.

I went with a mix of clears for slingshots and black titans elsewhere..

3 weeks later
#441 2 years ago

Hi all..

I am wondering if anyone knows a common cause why the diodes in the Twister magnet board keep desoldering and dropping out. There the right ones and doubled as per the update. The board is working perfectly but after a while the diodes desolder and fall off. My obvious conclusion is it's drawing a heap of current for some reason but have no idea why or where.

Any advice for this problem is appreciated. I have finished the refurb and want to have her working 100%.

Cheers

Steve

#443 2 years ago

Yep. I got a whole bunch of diodes out of Israel of all places. I have upgraded it 3 times. Once professionally and 2 times off my own bat. Also tried the upgraded board that's on offer from the UK. The upgrade board doesn't work at all. The old board will work until the diode drop off. I'm stumped.

1 month later
#451 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:Any opinions on who makes the best Twister decals?

I got mine out of Pinball Centre in Germany and was initially dissapointed as the quality of the decal as it seemed really thin compared to what retro arcade refurbs put out BUT really happy with the end result. I chose the Pinball Centre ones as the pics looked to be a bit better.. the artwork looked slightly more detailed. I could be completely wrong but that was my impression
The quality is actually quite good just need to make sure the surface prep is 100% blemish free otherwise it will show up any flaws. Also noticed Retro Refurbs are thicker which I like but the cost for that is some stretch so the seem to shrink by a few mm in the months after applying. Again this may be because of the way I apply the decals but the Pinball Centre decals did not shrink and look great.

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1 month later
#453 2 years ago

Hey all, would appreciate it if someone could measure the back and front legs on Twister. Mine is definently wrong! Would like to confirm what it's meant to be before sourcing some. I have approx 600mm from bottom bolt to floor for both legs. Thanks.

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4 weeks later
#456 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Overall length of entire leg is 30.5” so approx 774.7mm
The measurement your asked for is 25.5” so 647.7mm when taking out the leg leveler
And they are the black crinkle finish. I know no one makes accurate DE repro legs. Not sure about Sega
Sorry for the late response

No worries. Thanks for the reply. It's appreciated!

1 week later
#464 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Check the relay board and wiring connectors for the disc motor. It only activates for skill shot and multiball start anyway or scoop ejects in multiball.
Forget the tests as they are rubbish. The magnet test disc test starts the motor but doesn’t activate the disc magnet! It puts it into detect mode
If you have magnet issues ( seperate from disc motor issues) we have more stock of our popular magnet board replacements now.

I never got your replacement magnet board working in my Twister unfortunatly. I ended up replacing the diodes in the original board but only get a few games in before they de-solder themselves from the board. Do you have any documentation for troubleshooting with your new board? I would much rather use a newly designed board than the old.

#465 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I bought a new spinning disc decal from Marco and... it seems to be an overpriced joke: completely flat with hardly any grip texture. Or is that how they all were originally?
The one currently on the game appears to be its original on from 1995. It is heavily faded, but has lots of pockmarked "grip" unless that is actually just wear?
Has anyone had luck with the Marco discs... can you just stick them over the original and hope that eventually bites into the OEM texture (I doubt this would happen but maybe someone has tried it)? Is there some sort of "grip coat" that can be applied to the Marco one?
As it stands I'm more tempted to try and paint the existing disc and hope the purple or whatever settles into the pocks and thus stays reasonably colorfast, but again I'm not holding my breath there.

Can't comment on price but the quality of the marcos ones was fine for me. I completely removed the old sticker, cleaned with isoprop and got good adhesion with the new sticker. It does the job perfectly. The ball will spin and arc as per the original sticker. I removed the disc and spent plenty of time on prep. I had the same style pitting on the original sticker. I believe this was just wear.

#470 2 years ago

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone else has come across the factory wire loom color coding being different to the manual for the diverter and magnet disc?

Unsure if it's a printing error or a wiring error from the factory at this point. Would appreciate if anyone can confirm the coloring of their magnadisc and diverter magnet wires?

I have white/green and white/brown to magent disc and blue and blue/white to diverter magnet however, the opposite is specified in the manual.

Tha manual has Disc as MAG1 and Diverter as MAG2.

Also wondering if either magnet will register the "skill shot". At the moment, only the diverter magnet is registering the skill shot.

Cheers for any info on this.

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#473 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

My wiring looks like yours on the disc magnet
[quoted image]
Yes the disc registers the skill shot. I actually didn’t know that the diverter magnet does guess I’m never skillful enough to pull that off

Thanks for that. Looks like the Twister manual is wrong.

Quoted from ypurchn:

My wiring looks like yours on the disc magnet
[quoted image]
Yes the disc registers the skill shot. I actually didn’t know that the diverter magnet does guess I’m never skillful enough to pull that off

Thanks for the photos. Appreciate you taking the time. I think mine was registering the skill shot because of incorrect wiring so the "impossible shot" isn't really a thing now

#474 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

The manual is wrong. !!!! Nice one sega...
Twister MAG2 is the disc, MAG1 is the diverter. This is stated in my install instructions aswell.
MAG2 is the 'main' magnet and if that isnt working or disconnected then MAG1 wont work correctly either. The board has to initialise itself and uses MAG2 to do this.

Thanks for confirming this. The Sega manual could certainly lead some people astray that's for sure!

1 year later
#553 5 months ago

Has anyone ever had the magnet board large diodes desolder and fall off mid game?

Its the old board but it had the upgrade to 2 zenners and the resistor added. All was working fine for a while but then for whatever reason the diodes got so hot they desoldered. Twister

3 weeks later
#555 5 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

That's an odd one. The replacement from the guy in the UK is a must have IMO. I fought with trying to sort the old one for weeks and never got it working properly. His was plug and play.

I have that one too. Doesn't run unfortunatly.

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