No, you need an AC to DC converter, not DC to DC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJNKVMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Then since the DC will likely be very high, you need to be able to reduce the DC voltage:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Here's the fan I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NXYC7H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

You obviously need the standard SEGA / Stern 3 pin connector (I don't remember if it's male or female coming out of the backbox)
That's just power, you'll still need the bracket to mount the new DC fan. Here's the STL files to 3d print one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4638811

Hi all. Just joined the club (refurb needed) and waiting for it to arrive to do a proper assessment. Does anyone know where i can buy a playfield decal set including tornado? I see the only place doing plastic sets is out of germany. Cheers. Steve

Hi again, I am planning to do some artwork repair around the spin plate. Does anyone already have or would be willing to take a high resolution picture of that area to act as a decal of sorts between clear coats? Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi guys, I am looking at running a high power fan using a solid state relay and different power supply for the fan. From experience, can anyone confirm the output on J8-6 (brown/green) for Twister is 20V DC to drive the motor relay board? I had assumed AC was used. I have only ever worked on older Data Easts.

Has anyone put a plug and play shaker motor in their Twister? Seems like it would be a great upgrade for the theme but wondering if over time the vibration may cause wear to the spinner disc/motor/gear assembly.

Hello i have put up a new episode on my Twister project on youtube. im aiming for a new release every sunday! =) maybe i can share some tips, and hopefully get som back!

//Carl

I have a DXF and art file of that plastic if you needed to recreate it.

that would be awesome! I send you my email on pm!

thanks
/Carl

Hi all, if anyone has a Twister and get the time could you please confirm if this is an original part or a mod? Looks like a spring wire added to a post to stop a ball being caught/resting between a post and a pop bumper? Thanks.

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Original Part, common sega part used on apollo13 aswell and maybe others

Cheers, thanks for letting me know. Seems odd as the design seems to lend itself to scratching the play field!

Hi all, another question if anyone can answer. Did Sega make there Super VUK assemblies out of galvanised sheet metal? Looks well made but out of place from all of the other's. Thanks in advance for any info.

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Can someone post a picture of under the magna disc my disc is acting up I think either the motor is going out or there is too much movement of the gear post.

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I have mine out at the moment. Looks like the shaft has worn through the casing on yours?

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Hey gang — are there any videos or tips on adjusting the spinning disc? Mine raises and lowers when it’s spinning and I assume it shouldn’t be doing that. Thanks much

It could be a slipping retaining screw for the plate or freeplay/slack in the motor shaft assembly due to wear over the years. One is an easy fix, not sure what can be done with the freeplay if that is the issue.

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I'm missing the 8x32 screw I have to pick one up today that might be my issue.

any idea if there is a part number for the piece i pointed at

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Hi All, hoping anyone out there can confirm if there running the 520-5137-00 I/O Power Driver board? I am bringing a scrapheap unit back to life and not sure if this board is compatible? The manual states the Twister uses 520-5137-01 not the 00. Appreciate any confirmation their Twister is running the older 00. Thanks.

Hi all, Does anyone have one of these on their twister machine? It was in the cabinet loose when i started the refurb. Cheers. Steve.

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If anyone has technical knowledge on Twister and can help, I have magnet question. I am unsure if the top magnet pin located in the orbit is supposed to be exposed level with the playfield? Or if it should be positioned underneath a thin timber veneer in the playfield like in Goldeneye? Also unsure how that magnet is supposed to behave? I.e. does it just catch and just drop the ball or launch out of the orbit? It looks like the playfield i have may have been modified as i see a rough cut and years of wear on the magnet pin from sitting slightly proud. If anyone can let me know that would be great. Steve.

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Just noticed the stainless ramp protectors actually stop shy of the end of the ramp. Has anyone ever modified these to completely protect the ramp? I would say I might make all the difference. Too late in my case!

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Hi its should be exposed in level with the playfield. and its should drop the ball to guides thats go to the bumper area.

//Carl

So I think I might be in a similar situation as @rocketrob. Looking at the difference between their pics and your pics, I can see that the plastic housing at the bottom of mine is not solid and the shaft pokes through the bottom. It looks like it could possibly be broken, but it's hard to tell. Mine looks like @rocketrob's where you can see the post through the plastic. Is there any way to go about fixing that? I also noticed that you do not have a C clip on the shaft just under the collar where the retaining screw is. I have one on mine and so does Rocketrob .. Maybe adding a C clip was a common way to fix the shaft from slipping if the plastic housing broke at the bottom? I'm going to try moving that C clip down to see if it stops the disc from raising when it's spinning.

Edit: Just looked at your pic again and maybe you do have the C clip but it's up against the collar. Mine is just floating in the middle

If it helps I checked on a new motor. There is zero slack in the shaft/gear so technically the spinning disk (if fastened correctly) should not move up or down during operation regardless if the C clip there or not. Wear on the spacer located between the gear and the housing will introduce slack "up". Wear in the bushing for the shaft will cause slack "down".

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If anyone is thinking of giving a tired and worn playfield a spruce up, i was able to air brush a very small amount of createx black around the worn timber and it came up great.

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You should get the Cliffy protector

Yeah i have spoken with Cliff. A worthy addition to any Twister although i don't have it perfectly flush yet. I may need to do some more work and waiting to see how it actually plays when running. I was also looking at options to blacken the stainless steel so it isn't as prominent.

This is actually super helpful. I was able to reset the disc lower and really tighten down the screw and it's much better, but still raises a tiny bit. I'll have to check again for wear on the spacer. Is that just a common spacer part like on playfields that I can replace? Where did you get a new motor?

On a side note, I noticed that there is a loud buzzing/clank .. I think when the magnet turns on. Is that normal? I've been testing quite a bit without the glass on so maybe it's just extra noticeable because everything is loud with the glass off . I'll try to get a video of what it's doing since it's pretty hard to describe.

Hi all,

Hard to find much information on Twister out there! Guess that's what happens when only 1600 units were ever made. Hopefully someone here can help. Trying to identify what the yellow cable pictured is for? Seen them in some pictures of other machines but my machine does not have one. Also would appreciate a picture or just confirmation of what way the looms are fed into up into the back box from the main cab. Both on the right hand side? Thanks in advance for any help.

Not far off powering this one up! Was a mess when i got her, so hopefully it still works.

Steve

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Don't have my game anymore, but pretty sure those are ground wires for the high voltage display

Is that the ground strap maybe? I no longer own Twister, but my HRC which is also a whitestar has one. It connects to the speaker panel and dmd.

Edit- he beat me to it.

Thanks O-din.

Thanks Toyota.

I have powered up for the first time since posting and cannot get the dmd to work at all. Can't see anything to turn the sound down! She must boot on 100% volume.. so LOUD...

Yes both cable looms feed up on the rhs because if the size of the Dorothy Canister model on the left

Yellow Ground straps are for dmd controller board and and speaker panel ground connection

Thank you for confirming. Sounds like a stupid question but the lack of a grounding strap shouldn't result in the DMD not working? I have set up some shielded braid like the Data East's.

I wouldn't run without a ground, it's there for a reason..

It shouldn't stop the dmd work ing no, as the ground for the dmd and dmd driver comes from other connectors, but it's there to stop noise and interference mostly so should be added

I would check your 3 pin power connector to the dmd driver board is making a good connection. This is the +5v and Gnd for the dmd driver board. Have you also confirmed that your dmd is good? is it a gas one or colour dmd /led one?

Luckily i have a working DE and a few spares eliminate possibilities. I have tested the voltages to be good for the 3 pin (+5v ground) connecting to the dmd controller. When using a known to be good old DMD, I get a glitchy display when the ribbon cable is disconnected. When using the ColorDMD i get nothing. I can replicate the glitchy screen using a working Data East machine by removing the ribbon cable.

When the the ribbon cable is connected on the Twister board i get nothing on the display.

It feels like there needs to be a signal of some sort to allow the DMD to display. This goes against some of the advice however, that a dmd and controller will display on boot-up even if the ribbon cable is removed.

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Hello all,

Testing the waters to see how many would be interested in a new Twister ramp?

It may be possible to have a new batch made if the demand is there.

Cheers

I may be, but shipping to the states might be crazy expensive

I would be

Here is the final episode of my twister project, with gameplay and review.

Nice one Carl.

Thanx!!

So close to completion..... almost time to go underground!

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Working on some custom toppers

Does anyone have the broke down height with the backbox folded down? Want to make sure it'll fit in my Commander.

Thanks!
-Charles

To answer my own question, with the backbox folded down it measures just under 29" from the bottom of the body to the highest point of the back of the back box.