If your game still has its Z-Connector, I highly recommend eliminating it first.

Simply cut it off, solder, and shrink wrap.

Ended my TZ reset problem.

If that doesn't work, check the line voltage as suggested and then follow the PinWiki list methodically.

Ask here for help along the way if you need it.

OK Billy, if you don't want to just eliminate the Z-Connector once and for all, then just re-seat it first on both ends of the Z to see if it's the culprit. If it is, it'll work for a while but later return.

But it's as good as any place to start IMHO: point being, you've got to rule out all possibilities one by one in a methodical fashion.

Also, don't just reseat all the IDC connectors and ribbon cables all at one time (because then you won't know which one to replace).

If it's a connector or cable, email Ed at GPE and he'll hook you up.