(Topic ID: 134589)

Evel Knievel lights, F5?

By Carrman

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by MrBellMan
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

So I turned on EK the other day and the backboard and GI lights were out. All signs point to fuse F1 but it seems fine. F5 is blown though. Replaced with a new 20A and after being on for 2 min, GI lights flicker out and there is a burning smell from the back box. Any ideas?

#2 7 years ago

check all the backbox and GI bulbs. #44 bulbs should be changed out for # 47 bulbs or led bulbs because they draw less power. check for burned connectors on the fuse rectifier board, usually from 44 bulbs. and check for cracked solder connections on the back of the fuse rectifier board and reflow bad ones

#3 7 years ago
Quoted from Carrman:

Replaced with a new 20A

Are you sure this is the correct amperage fuse?

#4 7 years ago

F5 does take a 20A fuse on this game.

#5 7 years ago

Thanks for the ideas! I think I'll have to trace the signal for sure. I've been slowly putting in 47's as the old ones burn out. I'm looking at the schematic and it looks like F5 connects the the voltage rectifier board. Maybe a cap went there or something?

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

check all the backbox and GI bulbs. #44 bulbs should be changed out for # 47 bulbs or led bulbs because they draw less power. check for burned connectors on the fuse rectifier board, usually from 44 bulbs. and check for cracked solder connections on the back of the fuse rectifier board and reflow bad ones

Just to add a little bit, silvered bulbs may still work, but will draw more current. You're better off doing a global replace with new 47s. You could keep 44s in the playfield if you want it a little brighter, but cherry pick and make sure the bulbs LOOK good.

Also, you WILL need to replace the header pins and you WILL need to repin the connectors on the rectifier board in the head. The damage has been done and simply replacing the bulbs will not fix the problem.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from Carrman:

Replaced with a new 20A and after being on for 2 min, GI lights flicker out and there is a burning smell from the back box. Any ideas?

This is probably due to the bad connectors, which add resistance in the circuit. After a short time the resistance causes heat, which in turn increases the resistance and more heat and.....well you get the idea.

#8 7 years ago

Yeah I'll definitely need to follow the circuit and check connections, etc. it's been fine for about a year, blew a fuse on power down/up and now it smells like it's cooking the fuse or something else around it. Once I figure it out, I'll post my findings. Still odd that F1 isn't the cause of it failing in the first place. Also that F5 fixed the backboard lights but the playfield GI flickered out.

#9 7 years ago

I had the exact same issue. My fix was finding the GI short. It turned out it was in the coin door. This was from Clay's guide some time ago:

Remove connector J1 (playfield) and J3 (backbox) from the rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet wiring) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the main cabinet G.I. wiring (probably the coin door lamps).

If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J1 (playfield) from rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet) and J3 (backbox) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the backbox GI wiring.

If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J3 (backbox) from rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet) and J1 (playfield) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the playfield GI wiring.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

doing a global replace with new 47s

...and if you don't mind a few LEDs, just adding 10 or so will dramatically reduce the amperage on the circuit--to the point where 'bad' connectors will be less of an issue.

#11 7 years ago

Thanks for that info about the GI short. I didn't even look at the coin door lights. Also, I'm not planning on going led with this machine but I thought that it needed a different lighting board to run them?

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from Carrman:

I'm not planning on going led with this machine but I thought that it needed a different lighting board to run them?

3 ways to LEDs on classic Bally.

You can get the board, solder resistors, or get the adapter kit:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-ballystern-led-adapter-kit-review

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from Carrman:

but I thought that it needed a different lighting board to run them?

I should have been clearer--I meant you could replace some the the lamps in the GI (non-controlled sockets) with LEDs to reduce the load. You wouldn't need a special board for LEDs in the GI, or any non-controlled sockets.

3 weeks later
#14 7 years ago

Hey guys, so I removed connectors in steps as MrBellMan suggested and for some reason, just the playfield lights remain dim, not out, but dim/flickering. The fuse itself does not blow, but makes a crackling/sizzling sound. I'm guess i'm searching through the playfield GI circuit next? Just want to keep a record here for others who need to trouble shoot.

1 month later
#15 7 years ago

Are all of the GI lights like that? I believe the top box and the playfield have their own circuits (I may be wrong), but I would start trying to isolate which circuit is having the issue. If they all are, you probably have have a board issue that needs to be addressed.

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