(Topic ID: 118001)

Evel crazy issues

By fredf420

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by dothedoo
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 9 years ago

So i have a very nice Evel i picked up. It has been in some moist areas and the connectors have gotten corroded. I just went and bought a new MPU alltek and checked everything out before installation. The board boots and the light go (no sound but i have not looked into that). I can start a game and it seems to go through every coil when i do that (standard it seems like most pins resetting everything) but here is where it gets weird.. it kicks out all of the balls right away. If you hit the very bottom drop target it makes the ball kick-out go, if you hit the middle drop target the ball kick-out continues indefinitely, and i have to shut the machine down. My guess is bad connections. Rather than repining every single connector, has anyone here done a bowl of soda powder and water then drying to get rid of corrosion? I am going to go through each board and reflow solder everywhere, but was looking for a better way to tackle the connectors. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. thanks

#2 9 years ago

When installing the Alltek MPU, did you set the DIP switches to Evel?
Just checking.

Also, if you hit one switch (bottom drop target) and something else goes off (ball kick out) then you perhaps have a broken diode on one of the playfield switches. This will confuse the switch matrix and the cpu will different switches being activated than really are.

Put the game into switch test mode and go through that and see which switches are incorrect.
A bad or broken diode will affect up to 8 switches.
Download manual here to get switch matrix chart and switch numbers so the switch test will make sense:
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/4499/Bally_1977_Evel_Knievel_Manual.pdf

#3 9 years ago

It's funny you ask that! Yes i actually doubled checked because i feared that my fat fingers had actually gotten some half flipped (i always double check) or just partially maybe making a connection. But no they are good. Didnt even think of the diodes, though. It is 100% original as far as i can tell. A darn beautiful machine! What are your thoughts of the baking soda? I use it on my 66 cars parts but that is a totally different world! thanks!

#4 9 years ago

I'd also look over all the connections. You might have one of the "off" by one pin. It only happens with either unkeyed connectors or mashed pins.

#5 9 years ago

Alltek boards are great, but plugging old connectors onto it may not solve the connection issue. Kind of like putting a new chain on a motorcycle and not putting on new sprockets. Recommend you rebuild the connector plugs.

#6 9 years ago

I would suggest saving the baking soda for your cars

Why don't you just repin the connectors? As a matter of course and at a minimum, I would suggest repinning all the MPU connectors, rectifier board, and solenoid driver board as well. Be sure to review each switch for problems and don't forget to check your coin door switches, too. Keep in mind, corrosion is just part of the problem with that connection. It is hard to say how many duty cycles those connectors have been through. Many operators would remove the head on those older Bally games when moving them, as those weren't hinged yet, and they were used to removing the heads from EMs when moving from location to location. EK was one of the first solid state games This means that lots of connectors were unplugged and plugged back in, reducing their effectiveness. Also, this means that your header pins could be worn out, too.

--Replace your capacitors on the pops, and standup target
--Check your tilt switches, too
--Check to be sure your ground strap is connected between the head and the cabinet
--Go into switch test and see if there are any switches registering as closed that are in fact open

Good luck!

#7 9 years ago

Repin. Get a kit and a good crimper from Ed At GPE.

#8 9 years ago

What do the coils do in solenoid test? Do they each fire once, in the correct order, matching the number in the display?

If they cycle correctly, you probably have a switch/diode problem. If some coils fire more than once and others don't fire at all in a complete cycle then you have a connector issue (MPU J4 to SDB J4).

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