(Topic ID: 192770)

EVAPORUST


By thelazybman

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by OLDPINGUY
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    WHAT HAVE I DONE I think i made it worse. Did all back box and coin door hardware. Now they all have a sticky green yellow film. . It seems to come off pretty easy with a little scotch brite and elbow grease. some kind of anodize? coating.---- Still looking for that Flight 2000 playfield scan . OR if anyone knows where I might be able to take one in the Seattle/Everett area thanks fer looken

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    #2 1 year ago

    Did they come out like that? I've never seen that before.

    I always rise off the parts after removing them from evaporust. I'm guessing you just removed them and let them dry?

    #3 1 year ago

    Ditto on the rinse or leaving them in too long. I've also seen that when the metal was coated with an oxide coating (chrome, nickel, paint, zinc, etc.

    Aren't those aluminum parts? If so evaporust will not remove corrosion from them. It is designed to remove rust (oxides of iron).

    #4 1 year ago

    What the hell? How long did you leave them?

    I've left legs for 2+ weeks in evaporust and didn't have anything remotely like that Happen. Wow.

    #5 1 year ago

    Dont shoot me for this thought....Last resort, Scotch Bright, Finish.

    You have contamination...note the rust color on the other parts.

    ...as well as possibly what others say.

    Wearing rubber gloves, in a well ventilated area, youll want to try chemical first.

    In a small area, try an amount of Fresh Evaporust, other solvents in the petrol area, even Gasoline has
    worked wonders. Even spray paint stripper in a can at home stores, is insanely strong.

    Seeing in person would give some better answers.

    Much easier than hand stripping, but keep watching the thread...there are much smarter people here.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Did they come out like that? I've never seen that before.
    I always rise off the parts after removing them from evaporust. I'm guessing you just removed them at let them dry?

    That's what I'm thinking. He didn't rinse the parts off as soon as he took them out of the Evapo-Rust and simply let them dry.

    #7 1 year ago

    I let the parts soak in the leg cleaning PVC tube I made for 48 hrs and this is how it came out. some sort of chemical reaction? the brackets are from the circuit board mounts, but the coin door parts came out the same. It's a stern Flight 2000. I sent an email to Evaporust, so hope they get back to me. They did clean up. Prime/paint /clear all good

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    #8 1 year ago

    I'm a big fan of vinegar. Does wonders on rust. Not certain about reaction with aluminum, but on bare metal steel it is quick and cheap.

    Hope you find a solution.

    #9 1 year ago

    That does happen with early stern parts.
    I'm not sure what Stern coated their metal parts with, but it has a dull gray/white color. And yes, it turns green with Evaporust. I just took a brush to them and cleaned them in the ultrasonic.
    Stern parts don't shine up like Bally does, unless you do some significant polishing.

    #10 1 year ago

    What I do for small metal classic Stern parts is to use C-L-R instead. Mix the C-L-R solution up weak with water: 90% water and 10% C-L-R. Soak the parts in that for about 15 minutes and KEEP AN EYE ON THEM. They should turn silvery bright again. If they start turning black or dull then you're leaving them in too long.

    C-L-R must be rinsed off the parts immediately when you pull them out. Also, after that rinse, spray the parts with Mean Green or Simple Green and rinse again. This halts all further action of the C-L-R.

    #11 1 year ago

    So is the white tinge to stern metal calcium oxidation?

    #12 1 year ago

    Kevin,
    The yellow coating is likely lead from lead based paint. We see it in gas tanks from the leaded gas era. Lead migrates into the pores of steel which is why it was really great paint but it is hard to remove. If you are going to paint the metal, go ahead and paint over it lead. If not, acetic acid dissolves lead but slowly. The acetic acid (vinegar) will become hazardous waste as it will contain lead.

    Best regards,
    David Harris
    President
    Harris International Labs Inc
    479-756-9877 PH
    479-927-3202 FAX

    #13 1 year ago

    Interesting, I wonder if similar era Bally parts would also be affected?

    #14 1 year ago

    used on all makes---used on just about everything, stuff works great, as long as its not to cold. Stuff doesn't work at all I think below 60. It says so on bottle I have done Bally. Williams, Gotlieb, Chicago coin Even a 1950's Jr U.S. Marshall. Which i'm sure had all kinds of lead. never any problem? Well anyhoo plain old Vinegar seems to be working. Wonder whats the best way to keep the rust away on the bare metal any suggestions

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from thelazybman:

    Wonder whats the best way to keep the rust away on the bare metal any suggestions

    Glisten PC from POR is a two-part automotive clear gloss that provides a rock-hard finish with excellent long-term protection. You must first prep the metal using their AP129 product and the clear will require 3 days to fully cure. ProtectaClear from Everbrite is not as good a solution as the Glisten PC, but is easier to work with and apply.

    Wax based products have been used for years by high-end automotive restorers. Boeshield T9 is easy to apply, maintains the original look, but in an auto application is only rated to last about 6 months. It also leaves the part with a waxy feel.

    The best solution on the market is RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) from ECS Automotive. It requires a little more work to apply since you have to heat the item with a heat gun before applying it. It will last a while though as it has passed a 1,000 hour salt spray test.

    #16 1 year ago

    I've used POR 15 on a motorcycle tank (interior) before with good results, so I'll second another POR product.

    #17 1 year ago

    +1 for anything POR15. Use it to paint my railroad signal equipment, and our shop uses it to protect rolling stock against future rust. The stuff does awesome.
    Not as good as the original lead-based paint, mind you - stuff painted in that is STILL rust-free, after 105 years.

    #18 1 year ago

    I think we need a POR15 fan club now! Never seen this stuff, but it looks awesome.

    #19 1 year ago

    Any experiences with this:

    Rustgaurdit. Ive used on Meteorites, but not tried on anything else.....

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