stream went well last night and everything seemed to hold up just fine. Im heading out to Wisconsin until early next week. Ill post some details when i get back. All you need to make this work is Normally Open Reed switch, Light activated relay, and a DC-DC Buck Converter to get a stable 12v to the relay for power.

What power source (and its DC input voltage) are you using on the buck converter? Is the light activated relay a single component or something you designed on a breadboard? If it's single component can you provide a link? I'd love to see the specs and order a few to have on hand! Again, great work so far!

Before we go to crazy ordering stuff i have one minor kink to work out. There was one time on stream that i missed the cave jackpot. It also happened in my demo video above but didn't realize what was happening. This can happen because the "3" flashes during multiball which turns the photo relay on and off rapidly. There is a chance that the relay is switched off when you need the reed switch to sense the cave vuk firing. This may be able to be solved by switching my "3" back to a regular bulb instead of an led. The slower flashing of the standard bulbs should keep the relay active longer when needed. Otherwise the mod is awesome and the game doesn't mind what we are doing. We are 99% there. I wont have anytime to play with this until Wednesday of next week unfortunately but thats the first thing ill try.

I used stuff i had on hand from previous projects but here are the links for what I used.
Relay:
https://a.co/d/3kzDCYE
Buck Convertor:
https://a.co/d/35fgMa2
Reed Switch:
https://a.co/d/cdsCY6h

For power i clipped these: https://a.co/d/axtK2RO onto the 14v and grnd test points. The voltage gets stepped down to 12v by the buck converter and then is run to the relay mounted under the playfield.

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Inspired by SlapDrain's idea with the mrs I did a mod with an mrs in the cave tunnel. I used an Arduino uno and a 2-relay board. I relocated the flasher that is upper left of the volcano to behind the cave tunnel and swapped out the red flasher dome for a clear one. I mounted a #44 lamp base behind the dome and installed a wide angle yellow led that draws power from the GI from one of the left slingshot lamp bases. The lamp can be turned off/on via Arduino controlled relay. The power to the escape gate solenoid can also be cut via Arduino controlled relay. The relays are spdt and setup so if power is cut to the Arduino and relay board the game maintains normal 'classic' function.

The simple code requires that the cave tunnel is completed three times to 'unlock' the escape gate, otherwise it won't open when the drop targets are made. The lamp will strobe 1 or 2 times each tunnel shot to indicate number of shots completed. On the third shot it remains lit and the gate unlocks for 2 minutes. After 2 minutes the lamp turns off and the gate locks again. Completing cave shot while gate is unlocked will reset timer to 2 minutes and is indicated by a fast 3x strobe.

It sounds easy but is actually quite difficult to do. I also made a custom sticker placed above the cave shot stating "gate unlocked when lit" with an arrow pointing to the repurposed flasher dome (see photo).

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Edit: to be clear when I say "quite difficult to do" I mean actually achieve this and Escape to collect treasure. The mod was not really difficult at all.

You guys are genius

Kits pre programmed with instructions would be most welcome ! These 2 mods would pretty much force my machine out of storage

I would be in on both if they become available

Thats flippin awesome, nice work! Im happy to see i got some people thinking outside the box with this game. Somehow i knew you were up to something when I posted the parts list and didnt hear from you in a couple of days. I should have some time to play with my setup tomorrow after work.

After some testing the mod is more reliable with the led bulb so that is the way to go.

I recently rejoined this club, with the exact same one I had sold a few years back. The game is back to flashing multiball 2 on the displays upon startup, and the coil constantly firing. I had the optic boards completely rebuilt with all new parts, and the problem remains. I checked the J5 connection, and all wires look good. Ant thoughts on what I should be checking next? The J5 board connector traces? Not sure where to go from here.

Edit:

The game plays as it should now. I reseated all the wires in the J5 connector and reseated the optic boards and their connections. Fingers crossed it continues to play well now. I played about 15 games so far, turned the pin on and off several times, and no more error codes shown.

Escape from the lost world is a pretty dimly lit game with incandescent bulbs, but I found that using these bulbs for the GI really helps. I'm about half way through swapping all the bulbs to LEDs, I'll try to share some before/after pics when I'm done.

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I forgot to take a before picture, but I found this one in this thread that looks like how mine did with incandescent bulbs.
Also, the after pic is about 90% done.
Also also, I ran low on pure white wedge leds, so I had to use color under a few inserts. Kept the GI white though.

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I'm quite happy with how much brighter it is. The white GI looks a bit over powering in a few spots in the pic, but in person its just right. I also used those 5-in-1 led's in the pop bumpers, and am very happy with how much brighter / more colorful they are now.

Anyone know how to turn off the extra ball for this game?

Can anyone tell me the steps of setting it to free play?

Anyone have a photo of the pterodactyl or bushes silkscreened on either side of the glass? Making a replacement solution, need the measurement and a clear pic. I won't be using that copyrighted art, but something similar in the same style.

If I remember, I can take a couple pics tomorrow

That would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Hopefully these are usable

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These are perfect! Can you tell me a couple of size questions - wingtip to wingtip, and the length of the bushes (height?). Cannot thank you enough!

Someone made decals already, I’m pretty sure I’ve seen them for sale somewhere

I'll measure when I get home tonight

That's fine - it's good to have options, right? Plus, this is something I'm starting to do for other pins as well - not trying to push the business, but if you are interested just search for studio pinball in your favorite browser, small as my website is at the moment.

Jason - thank you.

This is a work in progress, meaning I'm not done yet, but I wanted to show you the work I've been able to start with the pictures you provided. And to get feedback. My goal is to create a suitable replacement option that does not impinge on copyright, and can be used either in place of a missing silkscreen for the dino, or as a supplement that can be used in addition - hence the different pose.

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I have an Escape for sale if anyone is interested. Its a project but in decent shape. Turns on but have noticed a few problems. Guy told me it worked 100% but you know how that goes.

1. Coil issue - seems several are not working
2. Sound issue - you can hear it but it is very faint.
3. Needs shopping - etc

I have brand new Decals including a custom front decal to throw in. $1,800 takes the pinball and new decals. Shipping is fine. PM me if interested..

Okay, I have this pretty much finished until I can get measurements. Then I'll send it off to be manufacturered as a cling. I have a Fathom mermaid I am working on, then I'll get back to the leaves here. This is the semi-final artwork:

PteroSemi (resized).png

I didn't get forget about your measurements, things have been a little hectic. I'll try to grab them before the weekend's over

Oh hey, yeah, no worries. Of course. I couldn't have gotten this far without your help!

Wing to Wing...9.75"
Left leaves...10.25"
Right leaves...12"

Great work so far!

Awesome, thank you!

Okay, I took a break from the Fathom cling (she is looking really good) to jump back on this. With the measurements, I've made this one 9.5 inches in width, just so if someone wants to place one near the silkscreened flyer, they won't be exactly the same size. But really, I doubt anyone would notice a .25" difference.

I want to finish the mermaid and then I'll be back on the bushes here.

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I have added a bunch of pictures of Escape S/N 1 that I own. Lots of unique differences on the playfields and a plain black cabinet.

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srgpeppers VERY cool!!! and really nice shape.

Looks really sharp!

My machine randomly resets (At least I haven't found a pattern yet) when different switches are made. I've noticed the drain switch does it occasionally, but there are others. I suspect some spent caps on the power board or MPU, but when I switch from free play to coins it works fine. I ordered new caps and will replace anyways. Has anyone seen this or have any guidance? The game will reset right into ball 1 again.

Hello all

Well today I finally joined the EFTLW Club, so happy to finally have one of these , but its currently not working ,
the good news is that the Playfield is in good shape , Cabinet is in okay shape

but I have a few problems that I need to sort out
as someone decided to cut all the wires from inside the head box , thats the first problem ,second is that its missing the Plastic subways that eject to either left or right under the apron , third is its missing the Subway plastic from under the top mini playfeild

without these parts I think this machine will be destined to never live again

Was hoping if there is anyone in the club that could help me out with these missing parts , also have a few cracked ramp plastics as well

any advice help would be appreciated , see pics attached

escape1 (resized).jpg

escape3 (resized).jpg

That's a bit of a trainwreck you have there. Those plastics are near impossible to find unless you get lucky and someone is parting out an old machine. I'd put a wanted ad with photos on Pinside and let it sit for a while and see what happens. I've never heard of or seen reproduction plastics for this pin unfortunately. Good luck!

Wiring is a mess but I’m sure we can get the game working

I think the biggest issue is trying to find the missing subway ramps

You could get photos and dimensions and make some from metal or plastic somehow, there’s always a way

Just wondering if someone would have good quality scan of the manual they could share ,I have the one from IPDB but some of the pages are a little hard to read
Cheers

I might still have an original manual. If there are any particular pages I can probably snapshot them.

Afternoon!

New to the club and it's going under restoration. It has the wrong back legs. From looking at the wiki on this machine, the back legs are 34" but are they ribbed? Anything special about them apart from the length?