(Topic ID: 196068)

Escape from the Lost World Club ~ Come on in!


By steve-o

2 years ago



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  • 95 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 44 days ago by MoSeS_1592
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There are 95 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

~~~Escape From The Lost World Club~~~

Just because it looked like fun... I picked up an 1988 Bally Escape from the Lost World project last month. I had no luck locating a EftLW Cub here on Pinside, so, here it is... Welcome!

My Escape from the Lost Word machine should turn out pretty nice once shopped and repairs have been made.
...So when I picked it up, the general illumination was 99% burned out, there was no trace of sound, broken plastics, insert graphics were missing (come on Classic Arcades, I can use a hand here), rubber rings were destroyed, filthy playfield and inside cabinet, missing the correct playfield glass (with the artwork on it), the plunger was mushroomed without a rubber tip (I'll need 2 fresh silverballs, of course), no backbox light present, many loose wires and coin mech switch dangling from the coin door, no coin door lock or manual and lastly... the upper left flipper coil was a mess of dangling, drooping, melted copper wires that I'm guessing failed when it locked it on. ...Oh yeah, there was a bunch of coffee beans mixed up in the dust as well as a bunch of loose parts, $8.75 in quarters (mostly from the 80's and early 90's), about 40 tokens and four 1980's nudie Polaroid photos.... Nice!!!

As of today, I have the sound working well, the coin door wiring sorted out and the upper left flipper flipping. It's playable. Boy, isn't it nice how easy the upper playfield swings up to service the playfields? I have already used it a bunch and will be a whole lot more while shopping it out.

Years back, I had a Blackwater 100, with the similar shaped cab and unique molded plastics. It was probably as unique as this pin, except BW100 started off with multiball which was pretty cool.

Machine splash:
Dan Langlois design.
Greg Freres art.
1,500 production.
Bally/Midway 6803 MPU.
It has the unique shaped cabinet that requires 5.5" longer rear legs.
Playfield glass had artwork applied to it to give it the appearance of more depth.
There's a bunch of molded plastic parts such as ramps, the bottom arch and volcano.
Weighs in at 225 lbs and measures 75" x 50" x 28"

Well, alright then. Come on in to the ALL NEW THREE DIMENSIONAL PLAYFIELD ENVIRONMENT!

Bring your EftLW tips, tricks, gameplay, pics, tech, questions, mods, stories... you name it right here.

Cheers, Steveo

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#2 2 years ago

im in the club but want to sell mine. its on the market page!

#3 2 years ago

Had one of these for awhile. Definitely an interesting game. Once I understood the rules it was more fun.

#4 2 years ago

I made a little forward progress with my EftLW project today with the GI lamp issue. It was as simple as locating and fixing the burned connector under the playfield. It almost looks like a real pin now with the lamps working.
.
I'm going to have to remove the rechargeable battery before it leaks and damages the MPU. 30 year old battery and no leak!!! It's pretty awesome that it's been doing its thing since November of 1987!!!

I have a question regarding the backglass: Is it supposed to be plexiglass or safety glass? Mine is plexiglass. Thanks!
~Steveo

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#5 2 years ago

I can't remember if my backglass was real glass. I want to say it was plexi with an insert.
Do you have the original screen printed playfield glass? That created a really neat 3D effect.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I can't remember if my backglass was real glass. I want to say it was plexi with an insert.
Do you have the original screen printed playfield glass? That created a really neat 3D effect.

No. Sadly GLSP3022, it's just a regular plain tempered glass. Hopefully there will be a way to print the artwork and then apply it to a standard glass.
~Steveo

#7 2 years ago

Finding a little time here and digging deeper into my EftLW project I now have the rechargeable battery removed and replaced with a remote AA battery pack. The old battery was just beginning to leak on the PCB where the "-" end was soldiered into place.

I also installed two new balls. It's amazing how different a game "feels" when new balls are put into service.

As a final note, my backglass illumination 34W incandescent light bulb was missing, so I installed a 12V LED strip into the top side of the backbox. I could also add another separate strip at the bottom if I felt that it wasn't enough, but I do like how little the reflection is down on the playfield glass. I've attached a photo of it illuminated inside the backbox and it really freaks out my phones camera.
~Steveo

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#8 2 years ago

Any club that would have me as a member....................
I'm in anyway!
Under-rated game, IMHO.
The bridge shot to the escape shot is one of the best gimmicks around.
I don't like the randomness of the multi-ball, but otherwise a cool game.

#9 2 years ago

Here's two EftLW Horror Pics.

The upper left flipper coil and the shooter rod tip.

.....I'd say that they have come to the end of their "useful life" duty. I had to file the tip down on the shooter rod just to get it out of the cabinet.
~Steveo

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4 months later
#10 2 years ago

For anyone interested I posted a thread a while back with lighting mods I made to my EFTLW. The link is posted below. I love this game. True, probably the least in-depth pin I own, but for a good 5 minute pinball fix, this one is great. Played it a lot as a kid and brings back floods of childhood memories playing it. Friends always compliment how cool the machine looks, more so than any of my other pins. It really is a unique layout.

Here is the link to my mods thread. Be sure to also scroll to the bottom of the thread since I have added more recent pictures of newer lighting mods I made.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/escape-from-the-lost-world-eftlw-pinball-lighting-mods

#11 2 years ago

On a side note, my left plastic ramp is an after-market remake. It is brown plastic with no patterned design like the original. I have seen this on a few other internet photos of this machine but absolutely cannot find ANY info on where these came from or who made them. Does anyone know?

#12 2 years ago

I really like this game. Putting vertically oriented LEDs in the GI underneath the molded plastic pieces really makes a difference. Getting the treasure by sending the ball up the left ramp, waiting for it to kick back up to the upper left flipper, flipping at just the right time to send it across the bridge to the upper right playfield, and sending it up THAT ramp through the hole before the gate closes is a real challenge. I upgraded the flipper mechs for the lower flippers to the more common Bally mechs from the era instead of that weird rolling pin style that adds slop by design. Thanks to vid1900 for giving me some tips on this in his flipper rebuild thread. If anyone wants to know, I can link to the post.

This machine is on location at a laundromat and runs 24/7. It gets a good amount of play and while the glass is not original, it does have vinyl decals stuck on the underside in place of the original silkscreened factory decals. All plastics are in great shape except for the upper left ramp entrance, which has been hacked with extra support plastic but works.

A couple of photos after I shopped it after 15 years in a warehouse and added Titan silicone rings:

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#13 2 years ago

Didn’t know there was a club! I’m in! Did a shop on mine when I got it that included some repainting and leveling around the middle plexi insert - archived documentation on pinside for posterity. My backglass is a translite with safety glass I believe. Assumed they all were..?

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Didn’t know there was a club! I’m in! Did a shop on mine when I got it that included some repainting and leveling around the middle plexi insert - archived documentation on pinside for posterity. My backglass is a translite with safety glass I believe. Assumed they all were..?

My BG glass came to me in plastic. Safety glass would be an improvement in my opinion.
~Steveo

2 weeks later
#15 2 years ago

I picked up one of these this weekend. I really like the unique playfield, so I have begun taking the steps needed go fortify it a bit. Mine appears to be missing a couple key small plastics over the years due to the inherent ball carnage, so I made a couple new ones out of 1/8" polycarbonate. The ball would get stuck in the two locations shown. Next, I've ordered some stainless steel to make some cliffy style protectors for the upper left ramp. Mine has a little duct tape there where a piece of it got knocked out.

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#16 2 years ago

Very nice. I noticed your machine has the *original* left plastic ramp in good condition. Nearly all of the machines I see around are either the dark brown reproduction ramp of mysterious origin or originals beat to hell and back. Enjoy the machine!

#17 2 years ago

I made that same poly piece myself a while back — busted again in a few weeks lol.,seems to be a high impact area.

#18 2 years ago

I have EftLW too, and will post more here later. Great to find this thread!

7 months later
#19 1 year ago

New to the group - has anybody heard a reason the front of the cabinet / coin door didn't get a decal or anything except black paint?
Cost cutting measure?
Thanks

3 weeks later
#20 1 year ago

Most likely cost cutting.

1 week later
#21 1 year ago

Traded for an EftLW today!
Played this at the Ann Arbor show and have been on the look out - I accidentally found one in town !
Looking in the backbox - surprised to see an incandescent bulb. Haven't seen that before.
Also, found two sets of connectors that aren't connected.
Could somebody look at their machine and see if these should be connected somewhere?
Thanks

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#22 1 year ago

I prob have pictures from a tear down I did, will try to remember to check tonight unless someone beats me to it

#23 1 year ago

Ok — from my pictures it looks like the plug with a single green /yellow goes to the board there under your hard - far left side about 1/2 way down just to left of 8a fuse.

The red/black connects to another red black plug that goes somewhere else to the left.— possibly j2 on audio board?

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

Traded for an EftLW today!
Played this at the Ann Arbor show and have been on the look out - I accidentally found one in town !
Looking in the backbox - surprised to see an incandescent bulb. Haven't seen that before.
Also, found two sets of connectors that aren't connected.
Could somebody look at their machine and see if these should be connected somewhere?
Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]

Got the manual? That might provide an answer. As long as everything seems to work correctly, don't worry about the connectors, and don't plug them in in unless you know for sure. I seem to remember the same deal on mine and will check next time I'm near it (not at my place currently). Hopefully someone else who owns one can chime in sooner than that

#25 1 year ago

Very nice! i noticed the T-molding on your back box is red. What kind of condition are the playflield plastics in? I noticed you have an original left plastic ramp. I've seen a lot of remakes (of unknown origin) without the patterns in the plastic. You also have the original playfield glass with silk screening. Nice machine!

#26 1 year ago

I'll join up. Actually a really fun game. Scored it a couple mo's ago and did a full shop job with LED's and new drops. This one is actually in fair shape. I do have the screen printed playfield glass but don't know how 3D it makes it. Lol. My ramps are pretty beat but holding up. Anyone ever reinforce there ramps with some kind of clear or epoxy?

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#27 1 year ago

My ramps were cracked when I had it — the main one on the left. I pulled it out and used epoxy and heavier gauge clear plastic cut to fit to reinforce it from underneath and the side I believe. Careful use of heat gun as well to reform some of the joining plastic ‘ramp’ parts

#28 1 year ago

I used hot glue under my top ramp to reinforce it where it was cracked. I also adjusted the spring on my plunger so a full plunge is just enough energy to get the ball to the top of the playfield and not smash into the side of the plastic ramp like a canon ball. I positioned the right top flipper so that the volcano ramp shot can be made but the angle is enough so the bottom wall of the plastic ramp can't take a full force shot. I also decreased the strength of the right flippers a bit, they are way too powerful imo. Hopefully this will avoid future cracks.

#29 1 year ago

Ok. I will reinforce them. The only issue on mine is one idol light always remains lit. Not a huge deal but a bit annoying. I do not have a manuel. I have yet to check the diode. Are these lights controlled by a transistor?

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1 week later
#30 1 year ago

That would be due to a shorted SCR on the driver board in the backbox. If I remember correctly you can test an SCR using the same method to test a transistor.

#31 1 year ago

I will check it out. Thanks

#32 1 year ago

Just in case anyone is looking Lloyd at Coinopwarehouse has an Escape from the lost world for sale for 1150.00

3 weeks later
#33 1 year ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Ok — from my pictures it looks like the plug with a single green /yellow goes to the board there under your hard - far left side about 1/2 way down just to left of 8a fuse.
The red/black connects to another red black plug that goes somewhere else to the left.— possibly j2 on audio board?

Thanks. I found where the green connector was supposed to go.
Still looking for the red/black, it's not J2
Also - none of my flashers were working. Now that I plugged the green connector in, I get the upper-left flasher, but none of the rest.
Do they all usually flash at once ?
Checked all of their individual fuses - so that's not it.
Thanks for any advice on how it is supposed to work.

3 weeks later
#34 1 year ago

Hey, can you guys help me find out where these wires go and should this plays be unplugged?? Thanks.

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2 weeks later
#35 1 year ago

Just joined the club! Will have questions...mine is playable, but has seen a hard life I think

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from twitami:

Just joined the club! Will have questions...mine is playable, but has seen a hard life I think

I had one for a while it's a fun game, Your collection looks like a lot of the games at Spinners
Jeff

#37 1 year ago

Hehe, all my games are at Spinners, so yeah.

#38 1 year ago

So what is missing here from under the multiball launch area? A switch i assume. And what is the top coil for, a knocker?

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2 weeks later
#39 1 year ago
Quoted from twitami:

So what is missing here from under the multiball launch area? A switch i assume. And what is the top coil for, a knocker?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nothing missing. I guess they planned on using switches for the multiball count. Instead they used an opto board to detect ball count. Top coil is knocker.

I have a switch issue that maybe someone can help me with. I have been getting random multiball without earning it. I have checked diodes and switches. The opto board is working correctly and has solid connections. I have found out that when I manually push the Treasure 50K 2 & 3 together at the same time all the Release Multiball Memory lights down by the flippers energize and I get multiball!? Sounds like a matrix issue but I can not figure it out. I wonder if the ROM is bad? I didn't find any other combinations of switches that would do the same thing. What do you guys think?

#40 1 year ago

^ Take balls out, go into SWITCH TEST, press each button.

Make sure switch number displayed matches the manual's switch button number

Test ball trough switches one at a time.

Tell us which switches display the wrong number

#41 1 year ago

Found only tilt bob registered correct but then started registering different switches one after another!? With lead held against brass rim. Checked diode and only found lead bell piece itself was not tight on brass rod. Tighten and retested. Showed correct over and over when held against brass rim. Problem still accured. Removed opto boards and inspected under magnification. Suspected a loose emitter diode and resoldered. Also checked resistors and reinstalled. Game plays fine now! The opto boards worked great during switch testing. I ordered all replacement components to have on hand just in case. The great lakes modular replacement opto board set says it works for this game but it definitely does not.
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2 weeks later
#42 1 year ago

Has anyone had issues with flipper bushings breaking? I have had my game for about a year and I've had to replace the main left flipper right after I bought it. Now about a year later the main right flipper bushing cracked so I replaced it.

I inspected the 3 others and it seem that two of them are broken on at least one side. Am I going crazy or just having a string of terrible luck?

#43 1 year ago

Have had mine for years and bushings never broke. I think they are original.

#44 1 year ago

I just bought 4 new bushings so I will have a couple spares. I'm going to inspect everything before I put them in. I really have no idea what would be causing this.

#45 1 year ago

Forgive if not the right place to post...

I looked at this game tonight, it works, needs a lot of lights replaced. PF dirty, plastics appeared good still. It's been sitting a long while, needs all the usual suspects replaced like rubber, new balls and overall general TLC. Top glass still in good shape with the silk screens. Cabinet has some scuffing nothing major. What's a decent ball park based on above? I tested all the targets, and switches by hand. One pop bumper is non responsive.

Thanks.

#46 1 year ago

I recently sold a nice shopped one and it sat for a while at 1,300. I would not pay more than 900 for one nedding a shop job and a bit of work. Fun game!

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Forgive if not the right place to post...
I looked at this game tonight, it works, needs a lot of lights replaced. PF dirty, plastics appeared good still. It's been sitting a long while, needs all the usual suspects replaced like rubber, new balls and overall general TLC. Top glass still in good shape with the silk screens. Cabinet has some scuffing nothing major. What's a decent ball park based on above? I tested all the targets, and switches by hand. One pop bumper is non responsive.
Thanks.

This is the right place to inquire.
Where the price lands pretty much comes down to geographic location, physical and mechanical condition and the buyer and sellers desire to acquire or eliminate. My guess here on the left coast in CA the price of the machine that you described would be somewhere around $1200-$1500.
~Steveo

Pinside has the $$$ range:

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#48 1 year ago
Quoted from thirdedition:

Has anyone had issues with flipper bushings breaking? I have had my game for about a year and I've had to replace the main left flipper right after I bought it. Now about a year later the main right flipper bushing cracked so I replaced it.
I inspected the 3 others and it seem that two of them are broken on at least one side. Am I going crazy or just having a string of terrible luck?

Several of the originals on my old one were cracked when I shopped it. First time Ive seen that ... those flippers are pretty snappy for an 80s game though

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

... those flippers are pretty snappy for an 80s game though

Agreed. The flippers in the game are WAY too strong imo. No real need for that much power and it greatly increases risk of damage to the (almost) impossible to replace plastics. I decreased the power to my flippers and the game still plays great.

1 month later
#50 1 year ago

Just bought this in mint shape first test tonigh Will post pictures

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