Back in late 2004 when I decided to start buying, selling, and repairing pinballs, I realized I needed a way to move them mostly by myself safely. I was one of the first people to talk to Escelara about using this for pinballs. I was lucky enough to find a 1,200 lb version on eBay. (This was before they had all the cool attachments they now have.)

The first thing I did when I got it, and do so every few years, is tighten up all the acorn bolts around the frame to ensure it is secure.

During the last year, the Escelara was not moving off the end of my truck correctly. In hindsight, I should have realized the rubber wheels (they call them Lifting Feet) were wearing down and I was not making the gap that I needed to. I just purchased a set of 4 1200# Lifting Feet (with hardware) for about $40 plus postage. This was part # 715HD. Yours may be different based on your model.

Below I show the pictures of replacing these lifting feet.

The 3 main points to note are:
1. The middle washer placement. I use a magnet to remove the old washer. I carefully put in the new washer and align. Then squeeze the assembly together as I place the new rubber and bolt through.
2. The bolts come through from the outside. The nuts are on the inside. (the bolt and nut are both 9/16" on my model.)
3. Check the pin that holds the assembly to the belt. Two of mine (both on the right side) were out of the left hand side of the belt. This could explain why I had a small wobble in the machine when going up the stairs lately. The second pin was easy to push back in. The first pin was a pain. I ended up taking it out and starting it from the inside.

Hope this explanation and pictures help.

Based on the wear on my small wheels, I will probably order a new set.

If you have any repair or maintenance tips, please provide.

This (with the big wheels and steps for my Dodge Ram), and my truck are probably the two most important tools I have purchased for this hobby.

Thanks
Michael

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Note the pin is not centered in the lower portion of this lifting foot.

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Once I completed the first set of two lifting legs, I moved the belt to expose the second set of lifting feet. You can see the major problem with the right foot.

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I received the new small wheels and the gliders. I will describe the installation below. The instructions are not really clear. I'm glad I only have to do this every 12 years or so.
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I bought two gliders, two wheels, and the pins for the lifting feet as I described in the previous post in case I need them.
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The instructions, to me at least, were not clear. It took a long time to figure out what to do. It didn't help that the sizes mentioned in the instructions did not match the sizes provided.
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The first thing the instructions stated to do was disconnect the battery and remove it.
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I am not sure this step needed to be done but I removed the plate with a philips screw driver. I don't think you would need to do this.
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The instructions state to take the two top bolts off the left and right side. You can see the top left bolt I am about to remove and the two on the right. The bolt is 7/16".
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Remove the two on the right.
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This shows the two bolts removed on the left.
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This shows the two bolts removed on the right.
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The next step is to loosen the wheels enough for the bolt to allow the bottom part of the gear assembly to be removed. I use a 15/16" nut driver and a locking wrench to remove the inside nut and move the bolt out.
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Nut removed.
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Bolt moved to the left on the left.
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You can see the bolt is no longer holding the assembly in place on the left.
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I guess this has better light.
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Repeat the process on the right side.
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The gear assembly can be moved to the side.
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We can now gain access to the nuts holding the left glider in place. The nut and the bolt are 9/16"
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This shows removing the wheel using a 15/16" nut driver. (Which is getting ahead to just show the size.)
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Use two 9/16" nut drivers to remove the bolt and nut.
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The two spacers fell out but they are actually flush with the frame.
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Showing the position the spacers should be in.
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The two black spacers go towards the frame with no writing. The flat part is parallel with the frame. The writing is on the side where the nuts will go.
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Bolts placed in.
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Bolts through the two spacers. The one towards the top of the frame has two holes.
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I actually pull the bolts out so the ends are flush with the spacer. Then I carefully put in the glider with the two black spacers in position. Then I bolt it in as shown.
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Repeat process on the right side.
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Wheels go on next.
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Bolt comes all the way out.
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Note the 3 spacers and the dirt. The spacers go towards the inside on both wheels.
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Old and new wheel.
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Cleaned wheel area (also cleaned the rest after this picture was taken).
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I used a long clamp to hold the 3 spacers together. On the right side, I could not get the clamp to work so I used a small piece of tape to hold the three spacers together.
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I put the 3 spacers in place and push through the bolt.
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I added the first nut as shown. I only put the bolt in enough to be flush with the metal since we still have to put the gear assembly back.
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Take out the wheel on the right and clean the area.
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Right wheel in and bolt flush.
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Left wheel in and bolt flush.
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Line up gear assembly then push through the bolts.
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Screw in the bolts and add the inside bolt. I had to do some adjustments to get the wheel straight and the bolt all the way in from the outside playing with the two inside nuts. I put the 4 bolts back at the top (two on each side) and the 4 phillips screws back on the plate.
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Added over 7 years ago: The last caption should have read "screw in the bolts and add the inside NUT."

This attaches the wheel bolt all the way through to the lower gear assembly. When I said I needed to make adjustments, I had to loosen the side nut to allow the bolt head to get closer to the wheel without bending the metal. It is just like adjusting switches. Very subjective.