(Topic ID: 52811)

ES Fault issue.


By Bok013

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 47 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by toastbot
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

#1 6 years ago

I just shopped out the earth shaker. It plays great. Except for when I shoot the ball of the right ramp the fault opens and closes a couple of times but then it stays closed. It should open to lock the ball. The music pauses for a moment and then the music starts back up but it doesn't realize the ball is still in play. This happens about 80% of the time. Sometimes it's okay and the ball Goes down the fault to the right and locks. I'm not sure where to star the search. Any ideas? Thanks.

#2 6 years ago

You have a part in that mech number 03-8090. Here is a pic of it:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-03-8090

Radical! uses the same part. The part had some grease on it from the factory, maybe try taking the mech apart cleaning and re-greasing the part. If this part is warn it's damn near impossible to find. I spent $80 on the last two I could find because I own Earthshaker and Radical!

You're probably okay though. Take the mech apart, new coil sleeve, inspect it, clean up and re-grease the flat cam, make sure all your switches are properly adjusted and take it from there.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

You have a part in that mech number 03-8090. Here is a pic of it:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-03-8090
Radical! uses the same part. The part had some grease on it from the factory, maybe try taking the mech apart cleaning and re-greasing the part. If this part is warn it's damn near impossible to find. I spent $80 on the last two I could find because I own Earthshaker and Radical!
You're probably okay though. Take the mech apart, new coil sleeve, inspect it, clean up and re-grease the flat cam, make sure all your switches are properly adjusted and take it from there.

There was someone in Europe who had it a bit ago. This part SCREAMS to be re-made, and someone was working on it a few years ago, but never heard what was happening.

I would love to have this made in Delrin for my ES. (Mine is also not working properly, but doesn't seem to be damaged.)

#4 6 years ago

The design really sucks. My ES works fine, but my radical diverter isn't 100%. I haven't had time to follow my own advice.

Quoted from dsuperbee:

This part SCREAMS to be re-made, and someone was working on it a few years ago, but never heard what was happening.

#5 6 years ago

Thanks fellas. I will work on that. I appreciate the help.

#6 6 years ago

Does your fault pop open and shut multiple times? Or should it just pop open once? I was wondering what is the norm?

#7 6 years ago

I've been having issues with my fault as well. I've been poking around RGP and there's several helpful threads - below is one of the more useful:

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups&hl=en#!searchin/rec.games.pinball/Earthshaker$20fault/rec.games.pinball/cwvPFmlUA6M/-T9vsn5XfTAJ

#8 6 years ago

you will need to copy and paste the whole link text, the hyperlink doesn't work

#9 6 years ago

I had an ES that would do this from time to time. Someone needs to make this cam in aluminum.

#10 6 years ago

Maybe someone with a NOS part can design it in CAD design and we can have someone with a 3-D printer reproduce it

#11 6 years ago

I don't know if a 3D printed part could handle the repeated use and be smooth enough.

#12 6 years ago

I have a NOS part, contacted 3 or 4 shops. It's not economically viable. I'd have to sell the part for $40-$50 each.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I don't know if a 3D printed part could handle the repeated use and be smooth enough.

I wonder if Pam and Martin over at Pinbits could get this done in Delrin.

All I know is I would be in for a new one, even at 40-50 bucks. The edges around the catch on mine are worn, and I think that is what causes the issue.

#14 6 years ago

I paid about $40 each for mine after absurd overseas shipping. I'm glad I did though, now I can't find them anywhere.

Even at $40-$50 each I'd have to sell a bunch to just break even, too much risk. I'll contact Pinbits.

Quoted from dsuperbee:

even at 40-50 bucks

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Bok013:

Except for when I shoot the ball of the right ramp the fault opens and closes a couple of times but then it stays closed.

I had the same issue with my ES.

I had to take the mechanism apart, clean it and readjust the spring (I think).

If the plastic part is not broken, a simple cleaning and reassembly may fix it. If I remember correctly the spring tension is key. It looked to me that the part is fairly insensitive to wear, and still operate as designed.

The worst part about it is that I had to remove the playfield from the cabinet to get at the assembly. I don't think you can work on it very effectively when the playfield is still installed.

As for the cost, I can see 1 costing maybe $60 or so, but if you made 30, I don't see how they would cost $2000.

The key may be to find a hobbyist with a mill that would make a few for $50.

If you wanted a run of more than a few, then find someone with a CAM system. Perhaps draw up the part on CAD and supply it for their system to make.

Robert

#16 6 years ago

I would buy one for 50 bucks .

#17 6 years ago

Pulled my mech out, and besides the worn cam the spring is shot. Checked almost everywhere and nobody has the right wring (10-401).

Anybody here know a good available spring that will work? I haven't any extras sitting around.

#19 6 years ago

I got a quote of $100 to setup the process and $30/pc. I would have to pay shipping on the orders, figure my cost would be $33/pc. Just to cover my cost, at $40/pc I'd have to sell 13 just to break even and I'm not sure there are 13 orders out there. Not to mention time, Things are crazy for me right now. I don't want to make money, but I don't exactly have the time either.

I thought about taking pre-payments and running them when I have my expenses covered, but I just don't have time for that sort of thing.

I talked to Pam at Pinbits, I offered my NOS piece. She is interested and going to look into it.

Quoted from MrSanRamon:

but if you made 30

#20 6 years ago

Nail on the head. The one in my E/S is in decent shape and I have a workbuddy who is talented with a mill. (Gunsmith) We're going to make a few out of aircraft aluminum and then test in my machine for suitability. The original was plastic for a reason. If it was to keep it cheap, there should not be a problem. If it was for to be easy on the other part of the mechanism, it could be a problem. (Wear and tear, etc.) He's going to work on it over the next 2 weeks while I am out of town. When I figure out it'll work, I'll do a quick poll to get a run estimate and figure out a decent price point.

#21 6 years ago

see, aluminum is the way to go. Never have a problem again.

#22 6 years ago

It depends how much. I know there are people here willing to pay $50 each, but this was a $6 part. At $6 in a home environment that should last forever. If I had the option between aluminum for $40 or a repo plastic for $6 I'd buy a couple for $6 and call it a day.

Also, I heard from Pinbits, they are unable to replicate the part.

Quoted from CaptainNeo:

see, aluminum is the way to go. Never have a problem again.

#23 6 years ago

Several years ago there was an ES at work that needed this particular cam piece for the fault. I believe the solution someone came up with was to repro the part by making a resin cast of the cam, similar to the kind made for hobby modeling. The resin cast repro seemed to hold up ok in that particular ES machine...

#24 6 years ago

That's what I was getting quotes for, but the per piece cost would be pretty expensive.

Quoted from kerokero:

Several years ago there was an ES at work that needed this particular cam piece for the fault. I believe the solution someone came up with was to repro the part by making a resin cast of the cam, similar to the kind made for hobby modeling. The resin cast repro seemed to hold up ok in that particular ES machine...

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

see, aluminum is the way to go. Never have a problem again.

Well the cam piece may wear real slow if it was aluminum, but what the cam rides against may then start to wear. Then you may have to remake that part too.

That is the main reason, besides friction/lubrication that a plastic piece is used against a metal piece...when there is motion.

Second, friction between plastic-to-metal is less than metal-to-metal.

Then with metal-to-metal, scheduled lubrication is key, to keep friction & wear low.

With plastic to metal, a little lube lasts for quite a while as the plastic is somewhat porous and holds the lube.

You may want to rethink the aluminum idea.

I would expect a replacement plastic piece to be cheaper to manufacture and last for 50+ years in a home environment. The piece in my ES has lasted ~25 years, and it was routed.

Robert

#26 6 years ago

Here is my problem. I got someone down to where I can sell them for $30/ea. But if someone else is going to step in and produce this, it's going to affect my payback, I don't want to take a hit.

However, my guy is time sensitive. I don't think there is enough demand for me to "compete" against anyone.

#27 6 years ago

I'd buy one for $30 if they work.

#28 6 years ago

$30 is a lot, but for someone with a failing game it's reasonable. I just need to sell so many to make my money back and I'm afraid that if I start the process and someone else steps in I'm screwed.

Quoted from DrJoe:

I'd buy one for $30 if they work.

#29 6 years ago
Quoted from kerokero:

Several years ago there was an ES at work that needed this particular cam piece for the fault. I believe the solution someone came up with was to repro the part by making a resin cast of the cam, similar to the kind made for hobby modeling. The resin cast repro seemed to hold up ok in that particular ES machine...

If I had a project ES, I'd pull the piece out and figure out how to do this. It would probably pay for the rest of the project.

Chris

#30 6 years ago

Just FYI. I added another spring to mine and hit the fault about 20 times and it worked every time. Not sure how long it will last but it is okay for now.

#31 6 years ago
Quoted from Bok013:

I added another spring to mine and hit the fault about 20 times

Yes, it seemed to me that the operation was greatly affected by spring tension and pull direction...plus being clean (not gunked up and lightly lubed).

Robert

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from Bok013:

Just FYI. I added another spring to mine and hit the fault about 20 times and it worked every time. Not sure how long it will last but it is okay for now.

Any idea what spring you used? The spring on mine currently is too weak, and not really willing to pay 6+ Euros (plus shipping to CA) for a spring yet.

#33 6 years ago

I used Part # 10-364 It was for a flipper return. I happen to have an old one laying around. I doubled it up with the one that was already on there.

#34 6 years ago

you guys shell out $200 on a whim for a stupid topper that doesn't even effect the damn game, and some make it look worse. I don't think $30 is going to break the bank either way.

#35 6 years ago
Quoted from Bok013:

I used Part # 10-364 It was for a flipper return. I happen to have an old one laying around. I doubled it up with the one that was already on there.

Thanks! The spring on mine is hacked, so I will give that a try!

2 weeks later
#36 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Here is my problem. I got someone down to where I can sell them for $30/ea. But if someone else is going to step in and produce this, it's going to affect my payback, I don't want to take a hit.

Did you ever continue with this project?

Robert

3 weeks later
#37 6 years ago

You can increase your sales target by offering this piece to Police Force and Mousin Around owners, as they use it too.

I'm about to put my PF diverter back together after cleaning it up, and will have to cross my fingers that it holds. It's worn to the point that the pin was traveling along the wrong track. Cleaning it up, adding some silicon grease and tightening the pin that had worked itself a bit loose seems to have fixed it when operating it by hand. If a replacement was available, even at $30, I would have bought it due to what a pain it is to remove/replace the diverter. It would be worth it to know that I'd likely never have to pull it again.

#38 6 years ago

I never went through with it. FYI. The other guy said he was going to and with two out there it wasn't viable.

#39 6 years ago

Put my diverter back in and it still doesn't work right. Please somebody reproduce this part!

Just ordered some from a French website for myself and a friend.

The diverters arrived and I installed one which seems to have fixed my game! I ordered 6 which came to $19 each when the shipping and price per piece were added together. I've already got local buyers for the spares.

5 months later
#40 5 years ago

Please let me know (pm) if anyone else has this part for sale, im having this problem now....booooo!

1 week later
#42 5 years ago

I sent my NOS part to Rick at PPS a couple months ago for replication. He told me late last week he got his first batch of repos in and the 03-8090 diverter should be in stock on the BAA site this week!

#43 5 years ago

Quick follow-up for what fixed mine: I took the weakened spring to a local Ace, and found one that was about the same in size and strength. Fixed the issue right away. Total cost: 1.18. Something to look into.

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Quick follow-up for what fixed mine

Yes, as I said too, the spring tension/alignment is key to having this work...and the plastic piece not being gunked up.

Robert

#45 5 years ago

I don't recall having a problem with mine, but if repros are being made, it seems like a good time to grab a spare.

#46 5 years ago

It is, especially since I think they were just $6 or so...

Quoted from ufopinball:

I don't recall having a problem with mine, but if repros are being made, it seems like a good time to grab a spare.

1 year later
#47 4 years ago

I've been shopping my Earthshaker and am glad I found this thread. I had been playing it for a while and never knew that the fault was only supposed to open once. Following suggestions found here and elsewhere, I removed the whole mechanism and ordered the flat cam part from Bay Area Amusements.

The part should be here on Saturday, do I need to grease it up before I install it? And if so, what kind of grease should I use? White lithium? Silicone? Something else? I'm a little hesitant to put any kind of lube inside a pin, so any help is appreciated!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
3,650
Machine - For Sale
York, PA
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 39.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside