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(Topic ID: 252706)

Eros One restoration


By jboner1058

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 71 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 87 days ago by jboner1058
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 71 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

I must be out of my mind to restore one of these guys since they are mostly made of cheap plastic parts that want to crumble apart but here goes. It’s rusty, doesn’t boot, smelly with a ton of mouse droppings and pee, and corroded as they come. So full restoration here we go!

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#2 1 year ago

Following, love your threads and love cocktail pins!

#3 1 year ago

I had one of these for a bit, it was actually pretty fun, and I loved the art package.

#4 1 year ago

Following. Have a Flame of Athens I'll be getting up and running soon.

#5 1 year ago

These mechs are super brittle especially where the switches screw in. I foresee a lot of super glue and epoxy in my future. Not a whole lot of hacks on this one which is nice but someone def botched the rebuild of one of the flippers and has incorrect/missing parts. And these cabs parts are not only fragile but also hard as heck to find. Wonder what I’ll find at the York show. One thing I’m hardcore debating is whether I want to drop $150 to find matching dark Burlewood vinyl to repair the Formica and keep it original, or do it All in black with actual side art vinyl from the Cricut. Maybe using the Eros one logo and some of the flourishes. Before all that I’ve got to get it booting first or it might be an expensive empty cab.

#6 1 year ago

Welp, after the POTO restoration, I HAVE to follow this one!

Chris

#7 1 year ago

So here for this. Fun and quirky game

#8 1 year ago

Every mech is a nightmare to remove. So fragile

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#9 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Every mech is a nightmare to remove. So fragile

possibility to upgrade a bunch of the components?
is everything fragile because it was made with cost-cutting in mind?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from cait001:

possibility to upgrade a bunch of the components?
is everything fragile because it was made with cost-cutting in mind?

No it's fragile because of the plastic they used. Because of its age it's getting very brittle.

#11 1 year ago

Now to remove a billion staples

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#12 1 year ago

Following because I have a hearts & spades I'm sorting through myself.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from cait001:

possibility to upgrade a bunch of the components?
is everything fragile because it was made with cost-cutting in mind?

I’m torn between changing some parts our with more modern mechs, but then it wouldn’t be original. I’m just really afraid once all the work is done after a dozen plays or so it will break down again. Which is very common on these machines even when new

#14 1 year ago

...wait, they used plastic pop bumper rings? If that's the case, I can see why you're really torn over "original and fragile or upgraded".

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

...wait, they used plastic pop bumper rings? If that's the case, I can see why you're really torn over "original and fragile or upgraded".

Same with early Ster solid state games like Catacomb.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I’m just really afraid once all the work is done after a dozen plays or so it will break down again. Which is very common on these machines even when new

Me thinks tho dost protest too much!

What good is a restoration if one cannot play and enjoy the fruits of ones labor?

You know what has to be done.

#17 1 year ago

I have a semi populated playfield for this game not sure if it is in better shape or not have no looked at it in a while if you are interested.
Joe

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from chad:

Same with early Ster solid state games like Catacomb.

I have a Seawitch with the metal pop-bumber rings and a Catacomb (a year newer) with the plastic pop-bumber rings. In my experience, the plastic rings are just as durable as the metal, and comparing the Seawitch and Catacomb side-by-side, the plastic rings being lighter seem to give the pops a more responsive action (ball seems to fly a little faster). This is one of the cases where I would keep the game original and not treat the "cheap" part as inferior.

#19 1 year ago

I’m not as worried about the nylon parts, but the polycarbonate and other plastic parts are extremely brittle

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I’m not as worried about the nylon parts, but the polycarbonate and other plastic parts are extremely brittle

Could they be potentially 3d printed if needed.?

#21 1 year ago

I do have a very nice large format 3d printer. If need be I could but would prefer to keep things original on this one. Considering they want like 25 bucks a piece for little plastic pin connectors, im sure I will have to do some cad work at some point on this. As cool as 3d printing is, the parts don't hold up as well and I print with PETG plastic which is a little less dimensionally accurate but much stronger than standard PLA and can take heat a little better (I don't have an enclosure for ABS)

#22 1 year ago

Hoping to find some blank white sunflower pop cap tops and some other random needed parts at the York show this weekend. Would love to find some NOS flipper and pop bumper parts but not holding my breath. I think these are all gonna have to get the retrobrite treatment

#23 1 year ago

Don’t even question the method. The only way to get the Yellowed white posts back to white. Shame it doesn’t work on the nylon parts and the lane guides as they are a “natural” color to begin with and have a bit of yellow already to them

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#24 1 year ago

Absolutely nothing dangerous going on here

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#25 1 year ago

$10 in chemicals and 12 hours of electric bill later

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#26 1 year ago
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#27 1 year ago

I have a pretty good idea what you are doing but do you care to provide detail? Looks like it came out pretty nice!

#28 1 year ago

Placed the abs plastic posts in a ziplock bag with 6% peroxide. Then placed that bag in the sous vide water set to 125 degrees for 8 hours with UV light blasting it (stirring the bag up every hour or so to even out the light distribution. Then went back on the nylon parts for 4 hours at 160 degrees to brighten then up a bit without melting them

#29 1 year ago

He also set it out in tbe hot sun with the peroxide, and water covered in plastic clear.

#30 1 year ago

I'm glad there are folks like you who will take this on - takes a TON of effort, time and knowledge.

Following.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from chad:

He also set it out in tbe hot sun with the peroxide, and water covered in plastic clear.

I used to do the sun method for game consoles but it’s 50/50 of getting streaks and splotches. Cheaper and easier for sure but I wrecked too many super Nintendo’s in the sun

#32 1 year ago

Organ donor courtesy of Cyroute

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#33 1 year ago

Trying to not go crazy on this one as I still haven’t decided if it’s a keeper yet (Yet I’ve already spent $200 in replacement parts plus also picked up doner playfield) . Do I use just standard 47 bulbs or do I go led route with some sunlight bulbs. I like LEDs in most Post 1980 and newer solid states, but this one feels like an EM to me and I like the warm 47 bulb glow

#34 1 year ago

Got 99.9% of the mouse piss off the playfield. One spot in particular smaller than a dime had some pee damage. I’m running into an issue where naptha is damaging the existing clearcoat I always use naptha to clean but had to switch to simple green because it was clouding up the clear. Used novus 2 to polish the clouding out. Not sure how I should continue if naptha is reacting if I used auto 2pac with it react too?

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#35 1 year ago

Now that I can see it under the layer of mouse filth, I have a ton of burnt and warped inserts. I am gonna transplant the doner inserts to this one. So much for getting touch ups and clear done before it got too cold to spray

#36 1 year ago

Have you contacted John's Jukes in Canada for spare parts on Allied Leisure and Fascination Intl Inc pins?

I think website is www.flippers.com

#37 1 year ago

FML

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#39 1 year ago

This will add significant time to the restore. I was hoping to clear this week before it got too cold and would have to wait till spring. Let’s see what I can do to save it

#40 1 year ago

Not ideal

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#41 1 year ago

Once the touch up paint cures I’m gonna have to hit the silver with 1000 grit to knock then shine off it to match the old paint before clear.

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#42 1 year ago

Looking good! If you wipe that area with Naphtha to imitate a clear coat can you even see the difference in sheens? I would think the clear would hide that making it seamless.

#43 1 year ago

I wiped it, still too shiny. It’s also not very smooth and flat either. I should have just left the warped and cupped inserts alone

#44 1 year ago

Nah looks great man, lightly sand it with high grit like you said. The clear coat will help level it out.

#45 1 year ago

Looks like all the 70 degree plus days are gone from New Jersey till the spring so no clearcoat in the forecast anytime soon that’s ok I’ve got powder coating to get done and cab repair that needs done first anyways

#46 1 year ago

How was your machine operational wise? Cosmetics/shop out wise is fairly straight forward. Yet I hate to see you go through this effort if board is junk.

#47 1 year ago

Didn’t boot, Had some numbers pop up on the display. but all the connectors were badly corroded So that’s my first step and then I’ll got through the usual suspects and change out caps and bridges etc and reheat the joints. If I can’t get something going I’ll end up parting it all out

#48 1 year ago

On mine it boots, but had gi issues/switch issues/coil issues. Got it all operational but didnt get flippers working 100% proper yet. Pulled off to shop an 80b. Will be back on it soon. Have it down to transistors. As chips are good when probing hi/lo input output.

If any switch is stuck closed it will do weird stuff. So make certain nothing is closed.

Deoxit or wd40 specialist contact cleaner works to clean up pin corrosion.

#49 1 year ago

Definitely following this. I hope you bring one of these back to life

#50 1 year ago

if they were molex id change them all out, but these pins are automotive AMP twist locks. Pain in the butt to find let alone change. So its gonna be a vinegar salt bath followed up with some deoxit

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There are 71 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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