(Topic ID: 168327)

Embryon right flippers dead

By dluth

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

I have just acquired an Embryon, and a day after I started playing it, the Flipsave flipper stopped working. The lower right and upper right flippers did work. Now, they have stopped working also.
I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to 1980s Ballys so am hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have checked the online guides, and the obvious thing would seem to be that the right cabinet flipper switch is not making proper contact. How do i test for this? I have filed the contact points as recommended and slid a business card between them.
Other things i have done:
Tested F4 - all good (as expected as all the other solonoids work)
Attached a jumper wire to ground then touched the middle lug of the borrom right coil. I got a big spark and the fuse F4 blew. The guides say that if all is well it should fire the flipper.
Tested the voltage on the flipper lugs - 41.5 on all three lugs on all three flippers.
After filing the right flipper switch, it is now coming up as stuck closed on the switch test (switch #3) but this wasn't coming up before.
Any help with the next step much appreciated.

#3 7 years ago

Yes the left flipper is working fine.
The flip save flipper nor the other two right flippers activate in solonoid test.
Even when I seperate all the leaf switches at the right button, that no. 3 still flashes in switch test.

#8 7 years ago

Thanks all - I'm going to be away from my machine for the weekend, I will report back on Sunday night.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you ground the metal tab of the Q18 transistor on the solenoid driver board, the flipsave flipper should activate. Does it?

No it does not. (Grounding Q14 did activate the left pop bumper just to test the grounding was working)

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you post a clear picture of the right flipper switch assembly?
As per the schematics, the two right hand playfield flippers are unrelated to the flipsave flipper other than their two switches being stacked together at the flipper button. The flipsave flipper is software controlled by the MPU like any other playfield solenoid.

Here's the photo - dumb question, but should those two ones on the right be touching?

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#11 7 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Ground each side of the flipper button switch tabs (while in game started), one of those tabs should flip the flipper. If you blow a fuse again you've got a problem with that coil or mechanism. If nothing happens on either side, then go back and look at what Cody_chunn said above.

If I ground the left flipper leaf the flipper flips. On the right, nothing doing after grounding each leaf.

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Your symptom is often the result of cracked solder joints under the Flipper Enable Relay, and under the J1 and J2 connectors on the solenoid driver board.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

Here are pics of the solder joints under J1, J2 and the flipper relay. None of them appear cracked.
I have checked continuity between the solder joints and the one they connect to via the trace and they all connect ok.

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#13 7 years ago

Woah - I feel stupid, but after taking a picture of the right flipper switches I sort of realised the bits with the contacts should be separated. I adjusted them so there's a gap and voila the flippers are back working again. Not sure how they became misadjusted but there you go - now I know about Bally triple flipper switches. Thanks all for your help.

#15 7 years ago

Thanks, you have a sharp eye. I notice when I try a tap pass (ie very lightly tap the flipper button) I get a spark on the flipper switch.
So this is the part I need? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1010A-13
I can't find it in the manual but it looks right.
Thanks for the tip on the flipper relay pins, they did look a bit dodgy so I will have a go at reflowing some solder (5 also had a dull look whereas the others were more shiny so I might do that one as well).
I'm glad I have learnt that the word for "bits with the contacts" is "nipple".

#17 7 years ago

Yes they do indeed seperate - they seem to be slightly different switches though - The one next to the flipper (and identical to the left flipper switch) has two lugs and a larger nipple. The one next to this has three lugs - two pointing down and one sticking out - and a smaller nipple.
I think I have narrowed the parts down to:
SW 1A-191
SW-10A-48
ASW-A10-41
..but not sure.

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#22 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yep, so the switch on the left with the missing tungsten contact is the main power flipper switch "ASW-A10-41" for the two right side in-play flippers.
The switch on the right with the smaller gold contacts is for the MPU controlled outlane flipsave flipper.

Thanks - do you know the part number for this? Even though it looks ok I thought I may as well replace it if I am getting the other one replaced.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

OH, and PS: Make SURE no metal parts of those two switch assemblies can touch each other or bad juju happens.

Thanks!

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

...You can pull the switch assemblies apart to replace just the blades if you want, but you have to be very careful with the brown end locking bakelite pieces (slowly wedging with a sharp knife) because those bakelite end pieces are very fragile and break easily. It looks like you're already missing one at the very left side of your flipper switch picture which shows the inner screw tubing sticking out....Hope this helps.

Yes, thanks that's a great help. You are right about the Bakelite piece on the left side - it stuck to the cabinet when I pulled them off - still intact though...

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