(Topic ID: 65974)

Embryon Owners Club & Restoration Thread, Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • 559 posts
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  • Latest reply 13 days ago by dluth
  • Topic is favorited by 44 Pinsiders

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There are 559 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 12.
#201 6 years ago

This guy needs new apron decals. Has anyone talked to pinball rescue about printing up some "blue on clear" to help us out?
-mof
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/embryon-what-not-to-do-with-your-apron

#202 6 years ago

Can someone please take 10 minutes and shoot me a couple pics of their flipper button wirings?
thanks!
(solved.) It was wired incorrectly. Fixed.
-mof

Quoted from mof:

Can someone please take a shot of the wiring to their right flipper button? I didn't check my pics while taking photos, and mine came out blurry...

#203 6 years ago

Just picked one up! Few issues to sort out any ideas would be appreciated - first older game
Left drop targets when the last one is dropped causes run away scoring until that captive ball is hit and drops reset.. Second issue stand up target on center one doesn't work and contacts were just adjusted
Pop bumpers don't light all the time? Have to earn them to light?
Need one plastic as seen in pics right outer

Thank in advance for any help

image-134.jpgimage-480.jpgimage-536.jpgimage-535.jpg

#204 6 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

How does changing the stop help?

Because the sitting face is new flat and complete, the shaft will sit better and i also recommend changing the shaft or grind the face flat.
Result is the flipper is lot more stable and no more bouncing ball.

#205 6 years ago

So I was reading manual and found out could do switch test - so play field raised and started switch test - 28/32 as play field was being raised.. then as I moved wiring a pop bumper coil engaged and coil stayed on - turned machine off and coil unstuck - turned back on and no won't boot MPU 2 flashes and only partial GI , no displays - sad day. I would appreciate any help

#206 6 years ago

MN-Flipper, The drop targets multiple scoring can be a shorted diode, go and test those. If the diodes are good, and connectors are fine, you may be looking at a bad PIA chip at U10 of the MPU, and maybe even U11 for the stuck pop bumper. Pop bumpers turns on when you hit the captive center ball.

Check your connectors, make sure they are good. If a pop bumper is stuck on, then one of the driver board transistors has locked on. Will need to test, remove, and replace it. Remove all the connectors from the rectifier board in the cab. Start testing the fuses and the test points to see what voltages you are getting. If those are good then check the solenoid driver board.

#207 6 years ago

As soon as I replace the 5101 and hopefully get machine to boot I will check the diodes on the drop targets - thanks

#208 6 years ago

How do I test the flashers on this game? I thought the sockets worked, but now I've switched bulbs and I can't get them to go off. Only way I knew to set them off was throwing both captive balls up during a game. They don't light. Don't know if bulb or socket. Is there a way in diagnostics to test these?

#209 6 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

How do I test the flashers on this game? I thought the sockets worked, but now I've switched bulbs and I can't get them to go off. Only way I knew to set them off was throwing both captive balls up during a game. They don't light. Don't know if bulb or socket. Is there a way in diagnostics to test these?

The only way I have been able to do it is to manually activate the twin center targets. I take the plastic off the central chamber so I can easily do it. The other thing is to check that the lone 555 bulb underneath is blinking, it is what drives the auxiliary board to actually flash the flashers. The normal light driver board blinks the 555, the 555 fires the board to power the flashers with the 43V. The flashers are all in series so if anything is wrong with any of them or their wiring, they will not work.

I found my machine had 555s in the flasher positions, I am wondering if the proper bulbs are brighter or not. At any rate, 555s are cheap and plentiful so you can at least test with them.

#210 6 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Just picked one up! Few issues to sort out any ideas would be appreciated - first older game
Left drop targets when the last one is dropped causes run away scoring until that captive ball is hit and drops reset.. Second issue stand up target on center one doesn't work and contacts were just adjusted
Pop bumpers don't light all the time? Have to earn them to light?
Need one plastic as seen in pics right outer

check to make sure all switches are open when not in use or triggered esp the Spinner. Also with the target switch change the diode and trace the colored wires to the other switches of shared color wires could be quite possible on o the wires might have broken off on another switch. also start a game and trigger every switch on the playfiels see if one switch triggers another as well when closed bad or shorted caps are very common on these older ballys.

Pop bumpers dont lite until you earn them during gameplay by hitting the targets a couple times in the embryon ball chamber first hit on each side will light one green target light then the second lights both green target insert then one more hit triggering both chamber target switches at once will light the chamber and pop bumper. if you trigger the chamber targets and one side the green inserts dont light by the outer chamber targets that switch isnt working

#211 6 years ago

I sure wouldn't mind having this original Embryon art hanging by my Embryon pin.

ebay.com link » Original Factory Artwork For Ballys 1982 Embryon Pinball Machine

#212 6 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I sure wouldn't mind having this original Embryon art hanging by my Embryon pin.
ebay.com link ยป Original Factory Artwork For Ballys 1982 Embryon Pinball Machine

I call Shenanigans on that. Where's the COA? How do any know its not a silk screened copy? The price hes asking for is ridiculous.

#213 6 years ago

I have always wondered how the transition from artist's painting to separated colour screens is done. The eBay add mentions scanning which seems unlikely in 1981.

1 week later
#214 6 years ago

Questions:

1. How do you make the orange round center light flash for E-M-B-R-Y-O-N ?

2. What does it mean when the guy says "embryon activated" or whatever? I noticed it cane happen well before you finish all 7 letters to spell embryon.

3. How do you light up the spinner to rip it for 1000?

-mof

#215 6 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I have always wondered how the transition from artist's painting to separated colour screens is done. The eBay add mentions scanning which seems unlikely in 1981.

All Comic Books have been done this way for decades. I knew somebody who did the printing for DC Comics back in the 70's/80's and they gave me all the 4 Part Color Separation pages for free. That stuff just got tossed.

#216 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Questions:
1. How do you make the orange round center light flash for E-M-B-R-Y-O-N ?
2. What does it mean when the guy says "embryon activated" or whatever? I noticed it cane happen well before you finish all 7 letters to spell embryon.
3. How do you light up the spinner to rip it for 1000?
-mof

1. I think it's always flashing. It always adds a letter.
3. Shoot the saucer up top

1 week later
#217 6 years ago

Started disassembling my Embryon PF today to be restored by HSA Pinball. Pics AND video to follow! The main PF area was easy to remove all the parts. The underside of the PF is a REAL TEDIOUS job! There are staples that hold the bare ground wire to all the under PF lights (GI and CPU) where you need to remove them. I'm stripping all the parts to where its only the bare PF wood panel to be sent out to Arkansas. See the link below of brian's last restoration! Can't wait to see mine done!

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa61.html

#218 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

There are staples that hold the bare ground wire to all the under PF lights (GI and CPU) where you need to remove them.

Uhh, that's NOT ground as you would expect.. That is the power side.

#219 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

Started disassembling my Embryon PF today to be restored by HSA Pinball. Pics AND video to follow! The main PF area was easy to remove all the parts. The underside of the PF is a REAL TEDIOUS job! There are staples that hold the bare ground wire to all the under PF lights (GI and CPU) where you need to remove them. I'm stripping all the parts to where its only the bare PF wood panel to be sent out to Arkansas. See the link below of brian's last restoration! Can't wait to see mine done!
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa61.html

I may want to go this route next year, let us know how it turns out.
-mof

#220 6 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Uhh, that's NOT ground as you would expect.. That is the power side.

I stand corrected, yes you are right.

Quoted from mof:

I may want to go this route next year, let us know how it turns out.
-mof

I got some pictures I'll post later today and a youtube video describing my process. The upside of the PF was easy, took me about 1.5hrs to fully disassemble & categorize the parts so I don't get lost during reassembly.

I'm currently just shy of 4.5hrs on the underside of the PF, that process is going VERY SLOW!!! What's slowing me down are those damn staples. I got this much time into the underside and only about 55% of the way done. That's unbolting everything, yank the staples, then slide the entire wiring mess off the PF using the old display glass so everything stays in its general position in order slide it back onto the restored PF. I'm doing this all on the floor and that's where it will stay safe and out of the way for me.

#221 6 years ago

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#222 6 years ago

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#223 6 years ago

Just blew away my previous high score of 1.4mil ... 2.8mil... yikes.
This game *really* needs 7-digit display installed at some point.
-mof

#224 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Just blew away my previous high score of 1.4mil ... 2.8mil... yikes.
This game *really* needs 7-digit display installed at some point.
-mof

7 Digit conversion is a must on this machine I converted to 7 digits on the last one i built it was a big improvement.

#225 6 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

7 Digit conversion is a must on this machine I converted to 7 digits on the last one i built it was a big improvement.

Thought of doing it too. Am I correct in stating that the stock ROM wasn't designed to operate with 7 digits, so the 7 digit display has a mod done to it where it lops off the first digit and moves over the whole score to appear its 7 digits? Be curious what is involved to convert over the machine or if its an easy swap out.

I still have 2 out of 4 that are the original fluorescent displays, the rest are newer Stern LEDS.

#226 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

Am I correct in stating that the stock ROM wasn't designed to operate with 7 digits

It does need a new ROM (available at ipdb.org if you are able to burn ROMs yourself) and obviously new displays. I converted mine to 7-digit a long time ago and don't remember all the specifics, but it was pretty easy and basic. I would definitely recommend adding it.

#227 6 years ago

yes you need new roms and to convert the mpu to handle 2732 roms so need to change the jumpers on the mpu and add a wire from the display connector to pin 12 i believe on on displays 1,2,3,4, not including the credit display.
Version 9 rom is the best set the added little light show is a nice touch.
John wartr burned mine for me and they worked perfect.
Not make sure you S&T board is functioning properly or it might now work properly, the diplay conversion does not need the 4555 mod becouse is has the display pin free unlike older units with other sound boards. some of the dip settings will change a bit and you will have the option of free play with the new roms

#228 6 years ago

Doing the 7 digit conversion to mine now with new BLUE LED displays.

#229 6 years ago

Thanks for the background info. I think for right now I'll keep everything original. From a game restoration POV it makes more sense to me. Plus as a kid when I had this game (not the machine I'm restoring now) it was bare bones stock HUO.

Once the PF is being restored, I plan on buying the Embryon stencils to touch up the cabinet. My next challenge is to figure out which spray paint to use and how to color match it to the original. Some minor chipping that can be fixed with wood filler. My BG is a 9.5 out of 10.

Can't wait till its finished. I'll likely be upside down on the machine itself once its all done, but if I ever sold it I know I can ask top dollar for it since it will be all original and a hell of a looker.

#230 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

Can't wait till its finished. I'll likely be upside down on the machine itself once its all done, but if I ever sold it I know I can ask top dollar for it since it will be all original and a hell of a looker.

Well looking at your playfield it needs to be cleared due to planking and moisture damaged once this is done its no longer original anyway, if its not done its just a player. so realy the displays wouldnt matter anymore at this point.
My experience has showed moded and with restored cleared playfields leds etc get the best prices

#231 6 years ago

Yeah the game I was told was in an arcade for about 5-6 years and then sold to a private owner till I bought it in 2012. It was kept in an old car dealership, but no climate control. Its no wonder the PF saw so much degradation. I agree the restored cleared PF's gain higher selling prices. Yeah it wont be 'original' but given its current state it needs restoration. Given how this game is a low production model it makes it desirable by collectors. Top of that its a fun game for a wide body. My folks had the same game HUO from a relative and back in 2003 they sold that for $2600 PLUS crating to ship it down to south Carolina from CT. So many Embryons as of late have come out of the woodwork up for sale. I think its because the newer games are so damn overpriced that the older B & C rated titles are selling more because no one can afford a new one.

This hobby is highly enjoyable, but damn expensive. Then again every man needs to have an expensive hobby for the wife to shake her head at.

#232 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

This hobby is highly enjoyable, but damn expensive. Then again every man needs to have an expensive hobby for the wife to shake her head at.

Too funny, but so true!

#233 6 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

Doing the 7 digit conversion to mine now with new BLUE LED displays.

IF you were to open up a thread and show progress, you'd inspire a lot of us to give it a try!
-mof

#234 6 years ago

6.5 hours or so since I started disassembling the PF down to the plywood...here is what we got! i took my time and cataloged all the parts by area. I used the old glass to slide all the hardware from the PF to it, and then wrapped it in a moving blanket resting it on top of the machine till I get the PF back. Lord help me it wont take that long to reassemble!

20140726_145003.jpg20140726_145025.jpg20140726_140727.jpg

#235 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

6.5 hours or so since I started disassembling the PF down to the plywood...here is what we got! i took my time and cateloged all the parts by area. I used the old glass to slide all the hardware from the PF to it, and then wrapped it in a moving blanket resting it on top of the machine till I get the PF back. Lord help me it wont take that long to reassemble!

6.5 hours? You are a frickin' speed demon. Took me like 10 hours my first pop at a tear-down!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-tear-down-sorcerer

As for tumbling/polishing everything, and rebuilding the PF, I've been hearing numbers between 60-80 hours from various folks. When I start my HS tear-down / CPR re-build, I'll track and show every hour.

If you would open a thread for your re-build that would be awesome, and track your time. Really helps motivate people "SEE" how it's just a series of XYZ steps to getting it all put back together... One step at a time.

-mof

#236 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

6.5 hours or so since I started disassembling the PF down to the plywood...here is what we got! i took my time and cataloged all the parts by area.

Well the easy part is complete anyway now lol. it goes together alot slower. I dread doing my next embryon and hopefully my last lol.
playfield is about the worst to restore out of the classic ballys. im going to play with some UV reactive paints when i do mine to get a dual effect.

#237 6 years ago

Really? Well 6.5 hrs on the underside of the PF and about 1.5 hrs on the top side. I will certainly start a separate thread once I get the PF back. The artwork is very complex and HSA told me though it will be a bit longer to restore because of that. I got nothing but time on the project.

#238 6 years ago

All packed up! Sending out tomorrow! starting a separate thread detailing the restoration of the upper/lower cabinet repainting/repair and reassembly of the PF once restored by HSA! I won't be writing too much on there, I'll be doing youtube videos and some pics detailing the progress.

packaged playfield.jpg

#239 6 years ago

Hi guys, my first post and glad to see there is an embryon club. Not many in Australia at the moment so I'm lucky to have one. Its not perfect with a bit lf planking and wear near the star rollovers. I plan to fix this in the near future, so may need help with a scan or two if possible. Currently restoring my apron as rusted badly, but not happy with my experimental waterslide decals, so will keep you posted if I have an success.

I will try and post some photos soon of my game

Btw how does one know when CPR releases the plastic set. Is it just a matter of regularly visiting their site? Thanks

#241 6 years ago

here are a few mediocre photos of my game.

picture058-511.jpg
embryon bg new-403.jpg
embryon3-110.jpg
embryon4-688.jpg
enbryon5-208.jpg
enbryon6-638.jpg

#242 6 years ago

Love my Embryon--lots of pink and purple LEDs and green LED flashers in the middle chamber! I have a sound problem with my board, when I check the sounds they all play but during gameplay all I get is 'Embryon activated' and in the other speech spots I get silence. Gotta test a new Squawk & Talk I s'pose. Not sure if it has anything to do with my Alltech MPU? Haven't had multiball in months!

#243 6 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

here are a few mediocre photos of my game.
Damn Embryon! Nothing mediocre about those pics that game looks great!!

#244 6 years ago

not calling the game that, just my poor photo skills. thanks for the compliment btw

#245 6 years ago

I wonder how many of the 2250 of the games have survived since 1980-1981. Cannot be too many.

#246 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

I wonder how many of the 2250 of the games have survived since 1980-1981. Cannot be too many.

About 5 in Australia

#247 6 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

About 5 in Australia

I'm sure the price of the game is inflated because of that down there. I've a few guys from Australia looking for one only to find the continent itself has a limited number of them.

#248 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

IF you were to open up a thread and show progress, you'd inspire a lot of us to give it a try!
-mof

Post created!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/embryon-7-digit-mod-blue-xpin-displays-completed#post-1819482

Let me know if you have any questions!

#250 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

This guy needs new apron decals. Has anyone talked to pinball rescue about printing up some "blue on clear" to help us out?
-mof
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/embryon-what-not-to-do-with-your-apron

I'm new to the forum so you may already have an answer to this. I tried pin rescue but they said they didn't have an plans on doing an embryon set. I am guessing because all the others they have seem to be standard size aprons and not wide bodied.

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