Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Hello all! Man... I was really hoping for some recent action in this forum! I saw 12 pages here and started reading. A lot of good info. I am hoping that I can add to it as I take from it. I got this Embryon game back in 1990 from my girlfriend. She had bought it for her young son who played it for a while but was tired of the tilt mechanisms and went inside and just started cutting wires. She was going to trash it. I took it and revived it. I rewired the damaged areas and replaced several solenoids and pop-up targets. This was before the internet so I bought everything from a local pinball repair place.
I played the machine for years and eventually gave it to my son. He played it for years and then left it to sit in his mom's garage for the last 15+ years. It hadn't been turned on in all that time.
I brought it home to repair again and will put it in my game room when I finish my basement. I was surprised it even turned on after blowing off all the mouse turds on the glass. Not a single one made it inside though. No sound, half the lights don't work, all but 1 of the 5 6 digit displays were working.
So... I removed all the displays and reflowed some silver bearing solder on the connectors. Many of the connections looked cracked so I resoldered them. This got all but 1 display working and it appears burned out except 1 digit. So a new one is on the way.
I removed all the boards and reflowed solder to all connectors. I also replaced the F5 20A fuse. All of this got the sound working, though not as much as I remember... But I think that is out partly because I have a bumper (one of the four blue ones) that just rapid fires as soon as you hit PLAY. I will take that apart later this weekend to see what's up.
The playfield is not too bad. But it could stand for a touch up. I might do that later. Right now I just want to get all lights working and get all solenoids going.
I did notice a burned out section on my solenoid board. I REALLY don't like the looks of this so I may buy a new one. I would hate to think this would burst into flames!
I will post here on occasion if I need help or want to show some progress.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Hello all! Man... I was really hoping for some recent action in this forum! I saw 12 pages here and started reading. A lot of good info. I am hoping that I can add to it as I take from it. I got this Embryon game back in 1990 from my girlfriend. She had bought it for her young son who played it for a while but was tired of the tilt mechanisms and went inside and just started cutting wires. She was going to trash it. I took it and revived it. I rewired the damaged areas and replaced several solenoids and pop-up targets. This was before the internet so I bought everything from a local pinball repair place.
I played the machine for years and eventually gave it to my son. He played it for years and then left it to sit in his mom's garage for the last 15+ years. It hadn't been turned on in all that time.
I brought it home to repair again and will put it in my game room when I finish my basement. I was surprised it even turned on after blowing off all the mouse turds on the glass. Not a single one made it inside though. No sound, half the lights don't work, all but 1 of the 5 6 digit displays were working.
So... I removed all the displays and reflowed some silver bearing solder on the connectors. Many of the connections looked cracked so I resoldered them. This got all but 1 display working and it appears burned out except 1 digit. So a new one is on the way.
I removed all the boards and reflowed solder to all connectors. I also replaced the F5 20A fuse. All of this got the sound working, though not as much as I remember... But I think that is out partly because I have a bumper (one of the four blue ones) that just rapid fires as soon as you hit PLAY. I will take that apart later this weekend to see what's up.
The playfield is not too bad. But it could stand for a touch up. I might do that later. Right now I just want to get all lights working and get all solenoids going.
I did notice a burned out section on my solenoid board. I REALLY don't like the looks of this so I may buy a new one. I would hate to think this would burst into flames!
I will post here on occasion if I need help or want to show some progress.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Hello all. I am looking for a trashed playfield to be used for comparison to a newly cut repro playfield. If someone has a junker, please PM me.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

They make repro playing fields for Embryon?

Quoted from Jon9508:

I wish. I have been looking for a bit. No overlays. No hardtop. Cpr already said they have no plans on doing a run. Don't think there is anything out there.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

I also have a large section of lights on the play field that don't light. I have read that there is a series of lights where, if one is out, they are all out. Where do I start first?

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Some progress... I seem to have fixed the sound board. Turns out the volume controls on the board were bad. I just shorted out all the legs together to bypass them and the sounds came back. Nice!
As far as the playfield lights... I got all but a few working. The "2" in the circular numbers beneath EMBRYON won't light up. The center red light in the circular color wheel on the top right and the white arrow on the top left is sporadic. It seems to light during play but at no other time.
I've also been playing with various LED lights on the backboard to check their color. I just can't use them on the backboard as they come off as too daylight in color. I like the nice warm soft white yellow glow there. However... I may swap out all the blue lensed lights on the playfield with the LEDs as they are much brighter and the blue could handle it I think.
The issue I have noticed now is that the 3 drop down targets on the left seem to have a mind of their own. As soon as you hit PLAY... The score starts going off 1,000 points machine gun style. Sort of like a stuck solenoid. Push all the drop targets down and it stops. I'd think it should be the other way around! It might be my solenoid board. After seeing the burnt transistor on my board... I opted to buy a new one with diagnostics on board... The Ultimate Solenoid Board from Marco Pinball. That should be here Tuesday. That and I have a bunch of various solenoids coming. I think I ordered 2 of every type on the board. I want to stay stocked!
Thanks for all the help! It TRULY is very much appreciated!

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Some progress... I seem to have fixed the sound board. Turns out the volume controls on the board were bad. I just shorted out all the legs together to bypass them and the sounds came back. Nice!
As far as the playfield lights... I got all but a few working. The "2" in the circular numbers beneath EMBRYON won't light up. The center red light in the circular color wheel on the top right and the white arrow on the top left is sporadic. It seems to light during play but at no other time.
I've also been playing with various LED lights on the backboard to check their color. I just can't use them on the backboard as they come off as too daylight in color. I like the nice warm soft white yellow glow there. However... I may swap out all the blue lensed lights on the playfield with the LEDs as they are much brighter and the blue could handle it I think.
The issue I have noticed now is that the 3 drop down targets on the left seem to have a mind of their own. As soon as you hit PLAY... The score starts going off 1,000 points machine gun style. Sort of like a stuck solenoid. Push all the drop targets down and it stops. I'd think it should be the other way around! It might be my solenoid board. After seeing the burnt transistor on my board... I opted to buy a new one with diagnostics on board... The Ultimate Solenoid Board from Marco Pinball. That should be here Tuesday. That and I have a bunch of various solenoids coming. I think I ordered 2 of every type on the board. I want to stay stocked!
Thanks for all the help! It TRULY is very much appreciated!

Quoted from geeteoh:

Let me know if you want to return the replacement sound board. I can refund everything. I may also have some 1k pots that fit the S&T, I can send you.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

So it looks like I have solved several issues. The hum on the door solenoid (I read) wasn't needed and almost everyone just cuts the wires. Done!
My lower right thumper bumper was a rapid fire machine gun. After pulling out some hair (and reading a post above!) I cut the disc capacitor and that solved the issue. I hear you can either just leave it that way or replace it. What say you all?
I replaced the burned Transistor with a TIP102 and it fixed the right slingshot which was scoring but not firing. Of course I replace the solenoid before finding this out. smh The resistor and diode both looked good so it would appear my solenoid board is okay.
My main issue now is the left side 3 bank reset. It has to do with the scoring. What was happening earlier was that they all must be down to stop the scoring. If any of them were up... It was like machine gun score at 1,000 points each. While working on everything else... I don't know what I touched or what I did but now they must all be up or down but if 1 or 2 are standing... The score goes off like a machine gun at 1,000 points each. I cut the capacitor there too with no effect... Unless that was the change with cutting the cap.
I have a few lights off but I know that a few of them DO light up when certain things are hit. The numbers around the "Maiden" bottom center has the #2 out... No voltage even going to the light. I'll have to chase it down. Right now the only thing really driving me crazy is the left drop targets though.
I appreciate the help guys!

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

If you pull the switch matrix connector off the MPU (top right on MPU) it disconnects all the playfield switches. The machine gun will stop if the problem is in the playfield. The start button should go in through a different connector so you should be able to start a game..

Quoted from metalkatt:

I heard Mirco out of Germany is in the process of making playfields. Might be ready by the end of the year.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Okay... Dumb question for the day... Where do I put the extra ball for multi-ball play? When I win that part and the game locks my ball for release later... There is not other ball available. Right now I am playing it with no glass so I can fix it. So I throw another ball in there to play while the first one is locked. When the 1st one releases... I play it along with the 2nd ball. But when I eventually lose both balls... It wants to spit our both balls for me to play at one time. I thought there was a spot that held that extra ball only for release when the other is locked. Then when both balls are released and eventually lost... The one ball for use when the ball is locked goes somewhere and you play with the regular ball. Make sense?

Okay... I started a game then pulled the connector while it was rapid firing. It stopped. I cut the capacitor, but I think a diode may be bad as I can read it both ways.
So really... I am down to this rapid fire issue to be resolved. I have a bunch of diodes coming Thursday so I will replace the 3 on that part to see if it cures it.
The number 2 in the circle doesn't light but that is small potatoes compared to everything else. I'll track that down eventually.
I also had the knocker on the cabinet missing. There are two wires just hanging there... I just noticed it. I am assuming that knocks the cabinet during a wild score or tilt or something. I'd like to get that working too. What voltage should I be reading on the wires down there when I do a solenoid test?
One thing I DID do was to use LEDs on all the blue and green lights. MAN they perked right up! I also put them under the 4 thumper bumpers. It REALLY makes a huge difference!

Quoted from jgreene:

Is this just wishful thinking or an actual rumor? What's the source for this?
It would be great to finally restore my project embryon that spent a decade as a mouse hotel.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Okay... Dumb question for the day... Where do I put the extra ball for multi-ball play? When I win that part and the game locks my ball for release later... There is not other ball available. Right now I am playing it with no glass so I can fix it. So I throw another ball in there to play while the first one is locked. When the 1st one releases... I play it along with the 2nd ball. But when I eventually lose both balls... It wants to spit our both balls for me to play at one time. I thought there was a spot that held that extra ball only for release when the other is locked. Then when both balls are released and eventually lost... The one ball for use when the ball is locked goes somewhere and you play with the regular ball. Make sense?

Okay... I started a game then pulled the connector while it was rapid firing. It stopped. I cut the capacitor, but I think a diode may be bad as I can read it both ways.
So really... I am down to this rapid fire issue to be resolved. I have a bunch of diodes coming Thursday so I will replace the 3 on that part to see if it cures it.
The number 2 in the circle doesn't light but that is small potatoes compared to everything else. I'll track that down eventually.
I also had the knocker on the cabinet missing. There are two wires just hanging there... I just noticed it. I am assuming that knocks the cabinet during a wild score or tilt or something. I'd like to get that working too. What voltage should I be reading on the wires down there when I do a solenoid test?
One thing I DID do was to use LEDs on all the blue and green lights. MAN they perked right up! I also put them under the 4 thumper bumpers. It REALLY makes a huge difference!

Quoted from metalkatt:

Both balls go in the ball trough. It should kick out only one at a time. If it’s kicking out both then you have a bad trough switch or one of them needs adjustment. There’s two that work together in that trough before the third one that’s actually in the trough. Go to switch test, with the apron off, and see if it switches are registering properly as you simulate the balls going into the trough.

Quoted from Nhpolarbear:

SNES: you might consider a magnetic reed switch from M and M for the rollover. There is a dedicated thread here on Pinside.

Quoted from Nhpolarbear:

[quoted image]

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Okay... I always need to post a win before I ask for help again! lol
I got the new variable resistors in for the sound board so that is up and going again. I also got the new Solenoid board and lighting board in. I installed both. Nice LEDs for diagnosing solenoids on the new board. I like that. It works great. The new lighting board fixed the only light that wasn't working so It must have been something that wasn't working.
I am working on getting some green 7 digit displays. From what I have seen, they look the best, IMHO, other than the stock ones, with my med purple back glass. I am excited about getting those. For the ball number display I can use 6 digits. So I am ordering an extra red one and a white one just so I can swap them out to see what looks best.
So now I have my remaining two issues.
- The 3 drop down targets still rapid fire anytime all three targets are up. When any two go down (or all three) the rapid fire scoring stops. Sometimes it only rapid fires when 1 target goes down and then you need to put all 3 down to quiet it down. It seems to change sometimes. Since I have been playing (You have to test these thoroughly! LOL) with the glass off... I've just been reaching over and dropping two targets just to shut it up. I'm still pulling my hair out over it but am getting ready to go down to work on it again and maybe see something I haven't seen yet.
- The extra ball. Sheesh... I attached a picture for review. The red arrow points to an arm that swings out. I can test the switch with my meter and I can hear it click and it has the proper continuity once it clicks. Then there is an arm (yellow arrow) that looks like it should be controlling something other than the reed switches below. (Not seen in picture) I just don't see how it is supposed to work.[quoted image]

Quoted from metalkatt:

The red arrow switch tells the game that there’s two balls in the game. The bottom switch tells the game there’s a ball in the trough.

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

I guess what I am missing is that I don't see anything that is supposed to hold the 2nd ball back and only played when the 2nd ball is called for. Right now it spits out both balls if they are in there. Is the switch arm with the red arrow supposed to hold the ball back? I don't understand the mechanism...

Quoted from metalkatt:

Did you go into switch test and make sure those switches are registering first? If they are, then the red arrow switch might need adjustment.
When both balls are in the trough, ball 2 sits/rests against ball 1. Once game is started, ball 1 gets ejected into the trough, allowing ball 2 to fall into that vacant spot.(*) The game now sees 2 in the trough and 1 in the shooter lane. If it’s kicking both, your shorter lane switch might not be active…..
*(As the ball falls into trough from red arrow switch, it should click, telling game a second ball is in the trough.)

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Thanks! The two switches were actually intertwined with each other and not separated. As soon as I moved the red switch beside the other... I could see what the issue was. I have it fixed now! Thanks! Seems it's easy to accidentally hit the switch when lifting the board and mash them into each other. You can actually see in the picture how the red switch is resting on the yellow one. Now I know!
I decided to go ahead and get all new boards and I am glad that I did. I took out the sound card to clean it up and I have no idea what the heck I did but it had nothing on it when I reinstalled it. No sound! But that is okay because my new sound board came in so fixing the old one is very low priority... Though I would like to have a working back up. I installed the new light board, and it took care of the one light I couldn't get lit. It was the first thing I noticed when I hooked it up.
Now... Aside from going through and resetting scores and setting it up for final play... I STILL need to fix my rapid fire/score with the 3 drop down targets on the left. As soon as you start a new game, around the same time as the ball is ejected into the trough for play... The drop downs are popped up and start machine gun scoring at 1,000 each. Before you can even get to it... It seems like it has already registered 30k points! So it is seemingly doing the opposite of what it should do. It shouldn't be scoring... But it is! When you drop at least two of them... The machine gun fire stops. When the ball is hit and goes to the back to hit the contacts... It scores again (as it should) and resets the 3 drop downs and they begin rapid firing again. All diodes check out and there was only one cap on it and it verifies as good, even though it had been cut earlier to see if that was the issue.
This is the LAST thing I need help on... Right now anyway. It ruins play to have to stop and smack the targets down to shut them up... I can't play with glass installed as long as this is an issue.
Thoughts anyone?

Quoted from metalkatt:

Did you do a switch test on these drop targets? What do they read when you drop each individually in the test?

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

I am still trying to figure out how to run the switch test. I have just been checking them with a multi-meter. I have a manual on the way.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Go to IPDB.org, this link should take you to Embryon. https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=embryon&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
Open the door, press the diagnostics button, 1st time is lamp test, 2nd is display test, 3 is solenoid test, 4 is sound test, 5 is switch test. At switch test, the switch number of any closed switch will appear on the displays.
On my game I had a similar runaway scoring issue when I first got it. In my case different combinations of the upper 3 targets would trigger a non-stop scoring and continuous sound effect problem that turned out to be the switch on the lower single target. The switch cap had gone bad but showed up on the upper targets. All 4 switches are all on the same switch matrix strobe. Could be a similar issue on yours, have you replaced all the switch caps?

Quoted from metalkatt:

I heard Mirco out of Germany is in the process of making playfields. Might be ready by the end of the year.

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I wouldn't hold your breath. Been waiting 4 years for him to make a run of Alien Star playfields that were "coming soon"

Quoted from Tricky_Rick:

Sweet Jesus! Okay... After checking all the switches... I had switch 30 stuck on and not scoring. Strange thing is, the switch was built that way. Always on and when the ball hits it.. it becomes an open circuit. I rebuilt it to look like the other side. Easy enough. Before I power it back on I figured that I would replace the battery on the MPU. I bought one of those coin cell battery holders to replace the nicad on the board. Seemed easy enough. It looks like someone had already replaced it years ago and boogered up the board a little. However I was able to slather on the solder to make sure it reached out to touch the trace.
So I go to power it back up... Switch test shows ZERO stuck switches! YAY! I go to play a game....
NOTHING.
I guess I should have learned by now that I should do ONE THING at a time with this to check results. I'm going to fart around with this connector again just to be able to check my prior work to see if I am still getting rapid fire from the three drop downs. It would also be nice to play a game!
EDIT: Is there something I should have done after changing batteries? I put the old one back in as it is reading 4.5V... Where the new coin cell battery is reading 3.6V. Is there a special switch to let it know to start fresh? This is maddening!

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Which is switch 30? I have no access to my manual. Does game still do all diagnostic tests?

Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

Part 1
Part 2
Hey all. Been a bit since I've been on, but HSA about 8 years ago restored my Embryon PF. Part 2 video shows the results which I am very happy with. I know many are looking for high resolution scans. I dont have the means to do that unfortunately but if you need good quality pictures of high wear areas i can try to get a good picture of.
All my boards are OEM, completely rebuilt, all connectors repinned, new flipper pawls, rubber set, repro plastics, new balls, new glass. The only mod ive done is a LOC where I can connect my sound to my PA system for crazy loud pinball sound through the subwoofers!
I do have a stencil kit to repaint the cabinet, but havnt done that. Some areas can use some touch up and corner of back box needs wood filler and paint matched, but other than that this game is 100% original and 98% pristine condition.
Someone a few years ago offered me $3400 plus shipping to buy it from me. Naturally I turned him down. Keeping this one long as I can!
Cheers!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Chosen_S:

Very nice, thank you for sharing!
Fantasticpinball has my high res scans of the Playfield and is restoring the art , it will take a long while to have good restorable source material, but things are in the works.