(Topic ID: 65974)

Embryon Owners Club & Restoration Thread, Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 498 posts
  • 96 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 33 days ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 282 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

BEF9433B-B12F-4A5D-866C-3B7C7E4E0F1D (resized).jpeg
IMG_1125 (resized).JPG
IMG_5471 (resized).JPG
CB96C37D-CDDD-4A9F-966D-604C3B17B9EB (resized).jpeg
A83D35B8-C0D6-4E67-AF5F-E0210651592B (resized).jpeg
7F92BA56-39B7-4549-9CC3-D9FBD2B813A7 (resized).jpeg
09AA869A-FEE1-42F0-ADFD-C64837CED4B5 (resized).jpeg
FC210865-65C7-4522-81E1-BC8A786E13FF (resized).jpeg
CE275FD0-F0B0-4FBB-8331-EC597542AF42 (resized).jpeg
EA6DE0D3-115D-4325-A1BA-189EF02AB39E (resized).jpeg
39BD08ED-5929-497F-B2D6-8586EC948ABC (resized).jpeg
IMG_0091 (resized).jpg
IMG_0092 (resized).jpg
IMG_0090 (resized).jpg
IMG_0089 (resized).jpg
IMG_0088 (resized).jpg

There are 498 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 10.
#1 6 years ago

Here is another great machine, has been going up in popularity lately.
I dont realy like the widebody Superpins as a rule. But i bought this one last year with the intention to restore and flip it but once i got it working and played it a bit decided to make it a keeper and will prolly be the only SS widebody I will keep most likley.
It is a great machine!!
I added restoration to this thread as well now please feel free to show your project machines as well or use this topic for technical issues.

#2 6 years ago

Heres mine i have it repaired up and running but unsure when i will get around to clearing and restoring this one.
em7.jpgI dont even have it in full leds yet.em1.jpgem3.jpgem4.jpgem5.jpgem6.jpgem2.jpgem1.jpg

#3 6 years ago

Woohoo! A club I can actually join without being just a fanboy.
Just got mine yesterday.
DSC01314-379.JPG

#4 6 years ago

One more pic.
DSC01315.JPG

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

and will prolly be the only SS widebody I will keep most likley.

No Paragon for you Hell?

#6 6 years ago

If there are any Embryon owners looking for a backglass, I have a decent one available for $200 plus shipping.

#7 6 years ago

I'd love to own one again. Fun game.

#8 6 years ago

Anybody within driving distance of Chicago that is interested in a trade, Medusa (mine) for Embryon (yours) +/- cash, etc, etc... hit me up.

I am hoping a little trade bait will shake one loose.

#9 6 years ago

Id like an embryon too someday.

#10 6 years ago

Love mine, picked it up for $300 3 years ago. Replaced a rectifier, cleaned up the main board & it works fine.
Great game!

#11 6 years ago

I just got one too. It was dead but I just threw the Alltek from my Stars in it and it sprang to life! The flashers aren't working however, there are 912's in their sockets. Are those correct? Is there a test mode for the flashers? Thanks for the help. Engage Embryon!

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

No Paragon for you Hell?

Shwars yeah no plans to realy own one anytime soon It has alot of the older early SS feel to me I have some room issues and rather have the games i like best flash gordon and later games seem to have a certain feel sounds etc i realy like and prefer.

Quoted from mrbillishere:

Anybody within driving distance of Chicago that is interested in a trade, Medusa (mine) for Embryon (yours) +/- cash, etc, etc... hit me up.

I actualy have one of my friends asked me if i was interested in buying another fathom if he gets it so i might have one on the line fairly soon in the next month or so.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

DSC01315.JPG 0

I am jealous you have the blue backglass on yours. It appears this machine came with either a blue or purple backglass i just personaly prefer the blue one if i could find a realy nice one someday.
Some think the blue backglasses faded to purple but it seems to be in the flyers from back in 81 so they must have made both for some reason.
The blue backglass will look better when i repaint my cabinet with a black background instead of the silver and the leds.

#14 6 years ago

Love my Embryon. It's my longest owned current game, and I don't see that changing. The game just gets it right. Nothing crazy, just nice pleasant pinball.

1 week later
#15 5 years ago

Whats the going rate for these - I'm looking at one that was restored a few years ago.

#16 5 years ago

Gumbo,I would guess 1000 to 1500 for one with a nice playfield. The sounds and light show when your bonus is added at the end of the ball is beautiful! I wish they made an overlay for this one, mine has some bad touch ups on the playfield. If you pass on her shoot me a pm!

#17 5 years ago

It would be nice is someone would make a set of insert decals for this machine.

#18 5 years ago

..... Or maybe a nice overlay for the "wheel" in the upper right that is always worn....

#19 5 years ago

The wheel isnt as worn as the three upper rollovers. A buddy of mine just got himself an Embryon. The plan is to make some good scans of the plastics. Few of mine are cracked but intact ( i still have the pieces just not re-glued together)

if you ever have issues with phantom pop bumper activity, check the caps on the switches, obviously the switches themselves, and add a type 31 ferrite core on the wire harness going to J4 of the solenoid board. This will prevent the bumpers from firing erroneously due to stray RFI/EMI.

#20 5 years ago

Embryon is a great game. Fantastic use of a widebody, original bumper layout. Great PF artwork and theme. I have one at home sheltered for winter... not mine... lucky me.
The game is slow - which is not a bad thing - as long as you resist the temptation to hit the central captive ball(s). Well, it's probably good policy to hit it once during the first ball, so that the standup targets are lit (and thus increase bonus). After that, avoid it, and go for bonus multiplier and drop targets.

#21 5 years ago

Can someone post how to light the spinner please?
Thanks in advance!

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

..... Or maybe a nice overlay for the "wheel" in the upper right that is always worn....

This machine does need a insert decal set enough inserts get worn on this machine to have it justified. even though a wheel might be useful the small overlays like that rarely ever match the rest of the art color on the playfields becouse of age. regular insert decals are better.

I have some ideas when i restore the playfield adding glow in the dark paint to react with UV etc just need the time to make it happen.

Anyone know who has made the other insert decals sofar?

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from Skulz:

Can someone post how to light the spinner please?
Thanks in advance!

Go to the saucer on the upper right part of the PF. The first passage lites the rollovers (now scoring 1000 instead of 10), the second time the spinner (1,000 instead of 10). Valid unless you activate the lock.

#24 5 years ago

Thanks much!

1 week later
#25 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

a type 31 ferrite core on the wire harness

Where do you find such a thing?

#26 5 years ago

Ebay or most electronic stores

Quoted from schwarz:

Where do you find such a thing?

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

Where do you find such a thing?

Mouser.com or digikey.com has them. All ferrite cores are not created equal. I mentioned specifically type 31 as it is meant to suppress frequencies from say 1mhz to say 100mhz effectively. Fair Rite specs say type 31 is good up to 300mhz, however the effectiveness drops after about 100mhz. Then you would need to use type 43 ferrite if you have RFI/EMI in the 300mhz and below. I have not experienced pinballs to have interference issues in that frequency range, their processors simply dont clock that fast. (newer pinballs maybe so, but should be sufficiently shielded and hopefully better designed)

http://www.fair-rite.com/cgibin/catalog.pgm#select:freq1

The idea of a ferrite toroid around the wiring harnesses (signal and power wire connectors to the coils) of the SDB is to prevent the collapsing magnetic field of the flipper coils to backfeed back into the harness and erroneously open the gate of the transistor that fires the bumper coils. The ferrite acts like a resistor at the RF frequencies of the collapsing coil magnetic field, dissipates it away as heat but allows signals below its targeted suppression frequency range to pass freely.

if your hair catches fire after reading this i can explain further.

Post edited by Pinwiz1985 : more info

#28 5 years ago

Got a pic of the right one?

#29 5 years ago

All ferrites look the same, just the size and mix is different. Fair rite part# 2631801202 should be enough size to get one or two turns of the harness and allow the IDC connector to get through the middle of the toroid. I have this one in my machine. I was able to get 4 turns of the harness in it. The one catch was I had removed the molex/idc connector to do it since I had to repin it anyway.

If you wanted to go a bit overkill in size you can get part# 2631626202. The problem is now you will need to support the thing somehow without it weighing down the harness stressing out the connectors. Its heavy! However it offers the most suppression ohm resistance per turn of the wire harness.

Something else to keep in mind is incoming AC RFI/EMI. There is a power filter connected right on the incoming AC cord inside the bottom cab. Its a silver box, has a MOV on it located usually on the left wall. Often times i find that these units are worn/failing and do not filter the EMI/RFI coming on the mains AC cord as well as it did 30 years ago. I replaced my EMI/RFI filter on my Embryon as I noticed phantom popping/scoring when my small beer fridge would kick on/off. While it helped the phantom popping and scoring still happened on occasion.

EMI/RFI issues is a pain in the ass. Often times its a bad ground or failing component that fixes these issues. Ferrites help a great deal, and essentially compensate for a bad circuit design that isn't properly shielded.

#30 5 years ago

Well to those who were interested i did get a second Embryon machine im going to do a bit of work to and resell.

#31 5 years ago

Its not perfect but not to bad of candidate to recondition001.JPG003.JPGphoto 1(1).JPGphoto 2(1).JPGphoto 4(3).JPG005.JPGphoto 1.JPG

#32 5 years ago

041.JPGWell have the playfield chemicaly reconditioned and cleaned on my second Embryon just need to mix the 2 greys and it will be time to scuff and start restoring the artwork. Think this one is going to get auto clear.
3 damaged rollover inserts have been replaced its a start anyway.001 (2).JPG

002 (2).JPG003 (2).JPG046.JPG

#33 5 years ago

Ok its been a long busy day on this machine.
Still some more touch ups to do, a few more inserts to re-glue and a few corrections but looks like it will be in first clear tommorrow.047.JPG048.JPG049.JPG051.JPG053.JPG

#34 5 years ago

Machine looks great! Coming along well! Gotta hand it to ya, you got balls like a brass monkey for doing this work yourself. When i get my PF restored I'm sending to HSA in Chicago. I like that they reuse the original inserts and have in house graphic artists. I like originality then functionality for this game in particular. Not many were made, and less probably have survived since 1980/81.

I'm pretty badass with electronics, but artwork is something I don't have a natural inclination with.

#35 5 years ago

That's a tough play field to touch up. A lot going on there.

#36 5 years ago

Ok well another whole day of art restoration decided to repaint all the lt. grey on the solid panels becouse of discoloration throughout the playfield the triple layer automotive clearcoat.
Now it can cure for a week or so.007.JPG008.JPG011.JPG012.JPG019.JPG020.JPG024.JPG025.JPG

2 weeks later
#37 5 years ago

Ok wasnt very happy with some of the insert decals had some bubbles etc so redid them my first set so a bit of trial and error. but have the process down now. 2 light mist coats 3.5hrs cure after and 2 heavy clears after 4 hours then 6 hours later for the last.
Cooked the playfield under heat lamp 12 hours now baking in the hot room to cure the finish atm hoping to wetsand and buff this coming weekend.
400-800 dry then wetsand 1200 1500 and finally 2000 then buff and reassembly can start.008-146.JPG011.JPG010.JPG009.JPG

#38 5 years ago

Nice.. Id like to have that game when done..Good work.

#39 5 years ago

It will be for sale when its done ( few weeks) a few people are interested in it ATM.

#40 5 years ago

How much would you charge to do that to my embryon? Mine is all original, no work done to it. Mylar only around the bumpers and slings. Brian at HSA said hes got about a 6 month turn around at least being so busy.

#41 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinwiz1985:

How much would you charge to do that to my embryon

IDK do you have detailed pictures of your playfield?

#42 5 years ago

thought I would chime into this thread with a note about Embryon: I'm having intermitent issues with the Micro-Switches in the Trough, so I figured I would simply Buy new Switches > WRONG!...Well after a month of searching everywhere (including the Original Manual & the Original Parts Catalog) I found that there is NO Mention of this Switch in Any Paperwork Anywhere. Also found out that these switches are Not being made! And here is the kicker > it's not a typical "micro-switch" !.....Now for the Good News > the dame thing is a Coin Door Switch! Pretty much All Classic Ballys used the same switch for the Coin Mechs, so all you have to do is take the Wire Armeture from your Existing Trough Switch and place it on the Coin Mech Switch and your all set! To my understanding Bally also used these switches in a similar fashion on Xenon......Changing the Wire is as simple as 1 single small screw....

#43 5 years ago

Thanks Stu I'm gonna store that away in the back of my brain

#44 5 years ago

Well ok its been a week curing and cooking. so i ysed a different method this time using DA discs and wetsanding discs instead of wet sanding by hand the old school way.
I was able to jump from build coat directly to final coat instead of leveling then respray then wetsand and buff. this is going to be my new method saved another coat and alot of labor
So its done and polished now reassembly can start. 023.JPG026.JPG025.JPG024.JPG027.JPG

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from Stu:

thought I would chime into this thread with a note about Embryon: I'm having intermitent issues with the Micro-Switches in the Trough, so I figured I would simply Buy new Switches > WRONG!...Well after a month of searching everywhere (including the Original Manual & the Original Parts Catalog) I found that there is NO Mention of this Switch in Any Paperwork Anywhere. Also found out that these switches are Not being made! And here is the kicker > it's not a typical "micro-switch" !.....Now for the Good News > the dame thing is a Coin Door Switch! Pretty much All Classic Ballys used the same switch for the Coin Mechs, so all you have to do is take the Wire Armeture from your Existing Trough Switch and place it on the Coin Mech Switch and your all set! To my understanding Bally also used these switches in a similar fashion on Xenon......Changing the Wire is as simple as 1 single small screw....

Stu,
i ran into this same problem on the Xenon i restored a few years ago. It can be fixed with a modern strait wire microswitch and a pop bumper switch bracket i think i had to shim it up or down with a blade switch spacer or 2 but also worked well .

#46 5 years ago

sounds like a lot of work when a Coin Door Switch is the exact replacement part...LOL

#47 5 years ago

Yeah true but a new modern microswitch can be used.

#48 5 years ago

Damn that playfield looks nice.

#49 5 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

IDK do you have detailed pictures of your playfield?

i can post a few after the holiday sure.

2 weeks later
#50 5 years ago

Well back at it damn holidays and hangovers lol.

Ok most mechs rebuilt< all playfield GI sockets replaced, rails in black laquer, leds installed, hardware upgrades, pop bumpers rebuilt, drop targets done and started reassembly now its time some progress will be evident. 007.JPG008-582.JPG009.JPG010-492.JPG012.JPG013.JPG014.JPG015.JPG017-107.JPG018.JPG

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 7.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 14.50
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 16.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 155.00
$ 119.95
Boards
Allteksystems
From: $ 159.95
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
$ 90.00
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Monson, MA
There are 498 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 10.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside