(Topic ID: 292295)

EM Turning off Mid-Game! Suggestions Needed

By JRC6000

2 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by JRC6000
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#1 2 years ago

Hey Everyone,

I have a 1964 Williams River Boat that I've brought back to life. Everything was working perfectly and I decided to loan it to my local pinball club. So the machine is now getting more use than it has in probably 30 years or more. I just found out that we are now having some issues. The machine is simply turning off mid game. It's not all the time, it'll play a few games fine, or sometimes it'll happen a bunch in a row. It seems to happen when the ball drains, but is also happening when the ball is just on the playfield somewhere. So no real pattern I could figure out.

The game just goes dead (everything off including lights). What's weird is you can just hit the left flipper button right away and it comes back on and it'll start a new game right away. So it's definitely not a fuse or anything as I saw this happen over and over.

My best guess is that there is some switch somewhere that is adjusted a little too close together and now that it's getting more use that switch is bouncing around more than ever and tripping something. Maybe something in the kickoff or the lock relay? I'm not really sure. What switches in a machine would cause immediate turn off?

As I mentioned it's on location, so I'm hoping to compile a list (with your help) of things to check when I go over there to give it a look. I'm hoping my Pinside friends will have several ideas of what it could be so that I can find the culprit at my next visit.

It's funny, whenever I think I'm getting pretty good with EMs, something new crops up and I feel like a newbie again! That keeps things fun! I greatly appreciate any suggestions, as always.

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from JRC6000:

What's weird is you can just hit the left flipper button right away and it comes back on

Is there a kick switch to power down the game that is possibly being activated?

#3 2 years ago

Is there a chance there's a tilt switch that's all but closed, and your TILT light is burned out?

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Is there a kick switch to power down the game that is possibly being activated?

I did not think to check while I was there (I was looking at the machine right before closing), but the the schematics show a "knock-off switch". So I'm assuming this is what they called it in the early 60's? That's definitely on the list of things to check out. If it is like the kick switch, I guess I could just bypass or bend it so that it won't touch as it'll never be used.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from mojonitro:

Is there a chance there's a tilt switch that's all but closed, and your TILT light is burned out?

Great suggestion, but I know the tilt light is working. We actually purposely tilted to see if that would shut off the machine and it didn't. What was interesting (and I forgot to mention) is that after it turned off and the left flipper button was pressed, sometimes the tilt light was on and sometimes not when it lit up again. Weird. I'm not sure about the whole tilt thing because I can't see how it would cause the whole machine to shut down....but maybe?!

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from JRC6000:

The game just goes dead (everything off including lights). What's weird is you can just hit the left flipper button right away and it comes back on and it'll start a new game right away. So it's definitely not a fuse or anything as I saw this happen over and over.

It's just like my '65 Lucky Strike - there is a NC kickoff switch in series with the Lock Relay and the Lock Relay has 2 switches (in series) that must be closed to keep 110v line power to the transformer. So, it could be that one of the two switches on the Lock Relay is not making solid contact to keep the circuit powered. Or it could be the kickoff switch itself not making good contact as well. The kickoff switch is located on the cabinet floorboard. There should be a metal rod - one end of it sits directly on the bottom of the cabinet and the other end rests just below the NC kickoff switch - when you tap the cabinet bottom from underneath, the metal rod bounces up and momentarily opens the kickoff switch, which releases the Lock Relay. The Lock relay can by re-activated by putting a coin in, pressing the replay button (if you have credits), or pressing the left flipper.

#7 2 years ago

Any of these 3 switches could cause what you describe. Try jumpering across them with Alligator clip jumper wires.

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

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#8 2 years ago

I agree with the posts above. I would do the lock switches 1st. Cleaned and make the gap a smidge closer.

#9 2 years ago

You are getting solid advice. This is not uncommon when moving a machine and re-setting it up at a new location. I had the same thing happen on a Super Spin I dropped off at a friend’s house. One of the anti-cheat switches got a little loose and would shut-off the game mid-game.

#10 2 years ago

Might be just a misadjusted anti-cheat switch, but also there might be a shorted coil somewhere, and when that coil is energized, short circuit causes voltage to drop so much that the lock relay releases.

#11 2 years ago

Thanks everyone. As always the Pinside community is very generous. I plan to head over there tomorrow evening and poke around. I'll be concentrating on the lock relay and the kick switch. I will be sure to report back with what I find.

#12 2 years ago

I cleaned and adjusted the lock relay. Plus I removed the post of the kick switch just in case (although I don't think that had anything to do with it). Seems to be working pretty good now. Thanks again.

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