My schematic is for a 3 slot coin door.

The coin switches have three tabs, one tab is common. If you connect your DMM between the common and one tab it will be NC the other NO. you will need to work out which is which.

Coin switch one (SW1) Common is yellow (50) and the NO tab is White/Blue (52) there is no wire on the NC tab.

The yellow (30) wire goes to the common on coin switch two (SW2). The Red/white (15) wire goes to the NC tab on SW2. The NO on switch two is Yellow/Black (38) .

Now coin switch three (SW3). The Red/White wire from SW2 goes to common on SW3. The NO tab is White/Red (51) and the NC tab is White (50).

You may want to check the colour numbers on you Schematic, mine is a scanned copy and a bit hard to read.

Looking at your images I still think you have a wiring issue.

In all three schematic you posted and the schematic I have. The wiring is the same.
So let’s take the coins slot out of the circuit. Put a jumper wire from the yellow to the white wires on the door plug, and then we can move on.

Help.jpg

Next check switch 1F on the SCR Motor, it should be closed, than check the switch on the reset RE it is NC, I have not got the schematic with me so you will need to find the wire colours on you schematic. After that it’s back to the credit button.

Yes

I can think of a couple of reasons this might happen. First, because you're blowing fuses, your coil is drawing too much current, which would mean it likely needs to be replaced. Check the resistance of the coil by removing the wire from one side and reading across the coil's two leads. Do the same reading on another pop bumper and compare results. Also, make sure the switch on the pop bumper is clean and well adjusted. I'm not sure a dirty switch would cause this kind of problem, but it won't hurt to make sure it's good.

Second, the Game Over trip can happen when any solenoid fires if there's a problem with your Lock relay.
It works like this:
1. Your Game Over relay holds energized through a switch on the Lock relay.
2. That switch gets dirty, or it's mis-adjusted and only makes light contact.
3. The pop bumper fires and pulls the voltage momentarily low across the Lock relay.
4. The momentary voltage drop weakens the pull on the Lock relay and it starts to relax.
5. The Game Over switch opens just enough to trip the Game Over relay.
6. The voltage on the Lock relay recovers and there's no evidence that it caused the tripped the Game Over relay.

Just for accuracy for our new friend. Both the Game over RE trip coil and Lock RE coil are energized at the same time then machine is turned on. The game over RE is then mechanically held in position and the SW for this coil in the Lock RE opens and de- energizes the GO RE trip coil. The whole point of this is if the machine was switched off or loss power in the middle of a game. The machine would reset.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1976-williams-lock-coil-purpose-discussion

I'm very happy to yield to Chris on the details. I'm pretty good with schematics, but my hands on EM experience only covers a dozen machines or so.

Diodes do not belong on an EM machine coils and must be removed.

Diodes exist on SS games to prevent the electrical back-lash of the collapsing magnetic field when the coil is deactivated. This protects the transistors which drive the coil.

When power is applied to a coil, a magnetic field develops which pull the solenoid plunger or moves the relay armature. When the power is removed, the magnetic field collapses within the coil which creates a high voltage spike. (You know what happens when you move a magnet on a coil.. your lawnmower spark plug knows).
The reverse current caused by the collapsing field will destroy the driver transistor on a SS game, burning it out and cause the coil to be permenently switched on. This reverse induced current is arrested and stopped at the source... at the coil diode.

(Incidently, if you ever get a shock from an EM coil, it won't be from the 24 volts powering it. You'll get a jolt from the reverse current as the field collapses within it.)

Diodes conduct in one polarity and short on the opposite polarity. Since EM games use AC which is a constantly changing polarity, the diode will short in half the AC cycle and either blow a fuse, or the diode itself will break down and short out (Essentially making itself a solid wire) or become open.

Unlike a driver transistor on a SS game, the electrical backlash of a diode-less coil won't effect the switches on a relay. I consider things like this a real advantage to working on EM games.

Sometimes people order or get replacement coils which come with the isolation diode pre-installed. Sometimes previous owners leave the diode in place but cut one leg. Again, it should be removed from the coil in an EM machine.