Hi there,
I've been working on getting a Bow and Arrow back from the dead. It's now able to play through a game but I have a couple of problems that are giving me fits. Hopefully one of you can help me out.

The first is a big one as it interrupts the game when it happens. There is an on field bonus collect kickout hole that works perfectly until there is 6K+ of bonus, then if you hit it into the hole it doesn't kick back out.

The other next problem is a little harder to centralize. There are a couple targets that score 3000 points and bonus that don't score properly. If they are hit for long enough they will score properly but if they are just tapped they will advance the bonus but not score any points. I'm assuming that it should hold a relay in while the score motor gives its pulses but it doesn't hold the signal long enough to score.

The only other thing I need to figure out but haven't yet is the 10s chime activates but usually doesn't make it all the way to the chime, stopping just about half way.

If you have any advice or need a scan of the schematic I have it here in front of me. I can post any section you need.

Thanks in advance, you all are life savers.

Thanks for taking the time you two.

U2, there is a separate common wire for 6-10. I spent some time last night trying to find a short or broken wire and got nowhere yet.
I did notice that the switches on this machine are a lot more finicky than my GTB especially when it comes to looking closed and still being open. Fine tooth comb here I come.

browne, I went through that early on. Without that I'd still be dead in the water. Those things were s-t-u-c-k!

Yeah, but you were trying to help so I'll let it slide.

Here is the schematic, the section I was working in was on page 29.

Thanks, I'll double check those switches tonight. After I was looking for this problem I was trying to figure out why it suddenly wasn't free play anymore. I adjusted the correct switch (what I thought was) closed a few times. Then I tapped on it and still heard the click of the switch actually closing. Once I got it closed closed it worked fine. Lesson learned. I'll try jumping the switches first to see where the problem is.
Thanks for helping me hunt this down.

Turns out it was the grey wire to the rivets had a cold solder joint.