Cleveland, OH
Hey Howard, This is true! I now know mixed voltage levels are present on switch stacks 
(Topic ID: 328872)
Linked Games
Hearts and Spades
Gottlieb, 1969
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Quoted from Mully911:which switch on this MOTOR 1C stack, is the one connected to the out hole switch in the schematic?
The solid SL slate (gray) wire switch that connects to RED BLK red black wire. Or am I missing what you're asking about?
Quoted from HowardR:this could blow all your light bulbs
Today I traded and delivered an early 60s pin and somehow while moving, a
wire came loose off it's lug touching another lug. Fired it up, and that loose wire
transferred 6V into 30V. All the bulbs that were lit in the head blew, and to light
the score reels, this machine had bulbs in the score reel units. Not expecting that,
I didn't bring any bulbs, but after taking out the scattered tools from my box, I
found like 30 loose 47s laying at the bottom, so all was good..
Oh yes, being a mechanic (with many street rods), the fella I traded with had
a soldering gun..
Quoted from Mully911:We are soooo close!
Change that fuse. Test jump from red/black to 2b,
and sounds like you may have it..
Hi Mopar
What a coincidence as I was just mentioning accidentally crossing different voltage levels on a pin.
I think we have finally solved the tilt issue. I did not have a blown fuse. I found that the 2B dog lever was stuck due to all the handling of the score motor during troubleshooting. Jumping red/black from 2B to red/black 1C did not work properly so I moved the jumper to the other side of 1C and everything seems to work properly I need to get the game back together and wires soldered then play a bunch of test games to be sure. Thanks to you and others for all your knowlege sharing and help. I couldn't have done it without you! I will keep you updated after testing.
Quoted from Mully911:I found that the 2B dog lever was stuck due to all the handling of the score motor during troubleshooting.
Yup, that's happen to me before. That dog jumps out of the center.
Good deal! I'm hoping all is now okay. Let us know! (T)
Quoted from hjh632:The solid SL slate (gray) wire switch that connects to RED BLK red black wire. Or am I missing what you're asking about?
Hi, I am not clear on what you mean.
Quoted from Mully911:not clear on what you mean.
The motor 1C switch that connects to the outhole relay has those color wires. Says so on the schematic, so you just have to match up the colors with the right switch on 1C.
Quoted from Mully911:Does anyone know physically which switch on this MOTOR 1C stack, is the one connected to the out hole switch in the schematic?[quoted image][quoted image]
Sometimes there's a motor switch chart stapled to an inside wall of the cabinet.
Quoted from hjh632:The motor 1C switch that connects to the outhole relay has those color wires. Says so on the schematic, so you just have to match up the colors with the right switch on 1C.
Oh got ya!..I meant the actual physical position on the 1C switch stack. inside, middle or outside. The colors on my schematic often do not match what are on the game. Example - I connected RED-BLK on 1C to RED-BLK on 2B and the game still had issues. I moved the wire to the SL ( other side of contact) wire and the issue is resolved. So either the wire colors are wrong or it's coincidence.
Quoted from HowardR:Sometimes there's a motor switch chart stapled to an inside wall of the cabinet.
Thanks Howard you were correct, turns out the switch I was on is the correct one. 1C - fourth switch( opens circuit to out hole switch)
Issue update:
The Tilt issue rages on and the root cause has not been identified yet. Here is where we are:
When game is in Tilt mode
The ball enters the out hole
The out hole switch fires the O relay and is held on by a set of O contacts and MOTOR 2B contacts in series
The score motor is started by the O relay and when it rotates and reaches the 40° position where the MOTOR 1A switch closes for a second time
The O relay loses power and drops out, this causes the Tilt Reset to never get fired when Motor 3B closes at the 60° point of motor rotation
I measure 28V between the MOTOR 2B switch tab with the RED-BLK wire and the BLK return wire through all 120° of motor rotation and yet the O relay drops out at 40°. What a puzzle! 
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png I would maybe jump the entire circuit. Right to left. Red/Blk to 2b.
2b to O switch. O switch to O coil, overlapping and duplicating the
original wiring in the circuit. All should work fine, then take one jumper
out at a time during trials. I'm thinking it's an issue toward 2b.
Hi Mopar,
I will try your suggestion.
When I connect a jumper directly from the 25V fuse to RED-BLK on 2B, the O relay stays locked on and Tilt reset will fire properly.
I also ran a wire directly from the RED-BLK wire on the ZERO POSITION CONTROL switch on the BALL COUNT UNIT directly to 2B.. No change..
So it seems 2b's hot feed is the problem.
How about jumping from 1c's Red/Blk to
2b's That would be re-feeding hot to 2b from
a close source. If that works okay and after a
bunch of trials, I'd permanently feed off of that.
Both 1c and 2b's hot directly originates from the
same source anyways..
So O stays energized when not tilted, but de-energized when tilted.
I'm a little busy today, but I'll later do a little deep diving in the schematic,
and maybe someone(s) else may have an idea what's going on here.
You may want to set it back up so you can manually turn the score motor
to see what other activities may take place at the exact same time the O Relay
de-energizes..
Quoted from Mopar:So O stays energized when not tilted, but de-energized when tilted.
I'm a little busy today, but I'll later do a little deep diving in the schematic,
and maybe someone(s) else may have an idea what's going on here.
You may want to set it back up so you can manually turn the score motor
to see what other activities may take place at the exact same time the O Relay
de-energizes..
Hey Mopar,
You are correct, O stays energized when not tilted and de-energizes at 40° Into the score motor rotation in Tilt mode. I have it set up to turn score motor off for troubleshooting.
My next round of testing will be to measure voltages when the O relay circuit is in both normal and Tilt modes.
I will switch off the score motor and rotate it through the 0° to 120° arc measuring all the voltages with reference to the BLK return wire at each connection node in the circuit to determine where power is lost at 40° during Tilt. We shall see. I will keep you posted.
I know you've already been jumping, but it still seems as if it's mimicking that the Tilt
is in the "Out" position. If you take the prong out of the "In' position, and once again
jump from the O switch to SB2 switch, does it make a change?
After a Tilt, with the Tilt Relay not resetting and the Ball Count running off, it's
exactly what it would do if the Tilt is in the "Out" position. It ends the game..
Hi Mopar,
Yes, I have jumped the IN/OUT pin before and every other wire connection. The Tilt reset works fine every time if you connect 2B in the O relay circuit directly to 25V fuse. I have not had a chance to read voltage path yet when in Tilt mode.
1 week later
Hey Mopar and All,
I finally found the root cause of the tilt issue you and others have been helping me on. It was the 'ZERO POSITION BALL COUNT UNIT" contacts. I had checked and cleaned them in past attempts to find this issue but they had intermittent contact, so when high current was required to power the O relay it would cause O to drop out early causing Tilt reset to fail and ultimately deleting all the remaining balls. Aggressive tilt setting Mopar called this.
So now you can move the jumper to set aggressive tilt or normal tilt. I am so grateful to Mopar and the rest of the community here who helped educate me on how some of the EM circuits work. My budding EM collection is up to 4 machines now..I have a Jumping Jack and a Nip-It I just picked up that need to be repaired.. You cats up for the challenge? 
Thanks soooo much!
Mully
IMG_2211 (resized).PNG I would have never gave that set of switches a thought seeing that other
circuits travel threw it that had no issues, but I'm glad the problem is solved.
That one took some time, but I'm sure worth it. Hearts and Spades is a good
playing machine..
Hi Mopar,
Yes, I agree that's why it made no sense that the other functions powered through that same zero pos ball count contacts were functioning. They require current for less time maybe, so the contact resistance was low enough to pass current for a short time I suppose. Then when it came time to pass current for a longer period of time for the O relay Hold, the contact resistance was too high to support the higher current. All functions well now. I love this game!. Thanks again! I learned a lot. Now I have to fix this NIP-IT I just bought yesterday.
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