I think the switches are showing you what relays they trip, not what pins they drop. Looking at the top corners for example, hitting either O and P or Y and Z might trip the 7-10 relay. Are there relays labeled 2-8, 4-8, 7-10, etc?

/Mark

It's been a while since I worked on a Chicago Coin Bowler, but I was pretty certain
in the Relay Bank there's 2-8 and 3-9 Relays. However, I don't believe there's a
7-10. I seldom (if ever) needed that section of the schematic when going through
Chicago Coin bowlers, but if there's no 7-10 Relay, perhaps it points that the numbers
refer to the pins.
I also think there may be a 3 digit Relay. What year (or title) is your bowler?

Prestige coil chart (resized).jpg
This is a coil chart. I think the 1st column lists all the coils, both solenoids and relay coils. Things that end with RE. are relay coils, S.U for step up solenoids, etc. The 2nd column is the coil number, then location of the coil on the schematic. The optional last few columns I suspect are the schematic locations for each of the relay switches. The A column would be for the switch closest to the frame, B column is the next switch out from there, etc. So every relay would have an A switch, fewer would have a B switch, fewer still have C switch, and so on.

I worked on a few Chicago Coin Shuffles, but mostly their ball bowlers, and had to look.
The C.C. Ball Bowlers has 2 double digit Pin Relays and 2 triple digit Relays. I was thinking
the shuffles also had the doubles. It must be the ball couldn't perform over the rollovers
the same as the puck could on the shuffles..
Anyways, RE. does represent Relay..
Yes, when #8 Relay energizes in the Relay Bank, a set of switches close in the #8 Relay
and that set completes the circuit and fires the #8 Pin Unit's coil. So that the #8 Pin Unit's
coil doesn't remain energized, a set of switches in the #8 Pin Unit open which breaks the
circuit. Then of course after the Bank Relay is reset and that set of switches in the #8 Pin
Relay is open, the pin unit completes its reset and that #8 Pin Unit's set of switches is once
again closed.
I went through tons of ball bowlers, and if there's a problem with rollover circuitry, I work
it out by doing some jumping, so I'm really not exactly sure why all those letters for one
switch, but Pin Relays energize with different rollovers depending on what pins are already
up and/or not up. I'll have to sometime look at one of the schematics and give it a little study..

I wonder if some of the confusing notation is meant to be a short hand for switches wired in parallel:
Prestige roll overs (resized).jpg
So for example for the 2 Pin relay, could it be that if A or B or J switches in red close that the relay fires? It would be an easy thing to check.

The rollover switches work in conjunction with the strike adjustment jack to determine which bank latch in relays pull in. Each of these pin numbered relays will do at least 2 functions when pulled in.
A closed normally open switch sends constant power to it’s bowling pin trip coil to release and flip up the bowling pin.
The 2nd normally open switch closes to send constant power to a score motor wiper disc rivet, waiting for be scanned to advance score.
There may be other switches on the latch in relays for other functions.

seems like your initial post is correct ... the problem is the A switch is not taking down the 2 and 8 pins when it should by powering the 2 pin and 8 pin relays.

however, it is dependent on what pins are already flipped up and whether it's the first or second shot, so you've got those playfield / pin control relays altering when entire circuits are active.

the idea was to try and simulate what a ball would actually do if pins were present or absent, and what pins tend to knock over other pins or deflect the ball in a real game.

e.g. hitting the A switch just takes out pins 2 and 8 since the 2 pin is more or less hit center and the ball follows it straight back to the 8 pin. Hitting the B switch on the second shot IF the 2 pin was still standing would take out the 10 pin.

it's not a very accurate simulation, but at least it makes spares possible when you'd normally need a front pin to go one way and the ball another to hit remaining back pins - ignoring lucky pin ricochets taking out extra pins like happens in the real world.

So this happens with the 6th Player right from the start when in the 1st frame?
The 2 things that are different than the 1-5 Players are the Player-Step-Up Unit
being in the 5th step up, and the 6th's Player's Strike & Spare Unit.
This is a Chicago Coin, so I believe the Player Step Up has a double wiper board.
I'd maybe overlook that, but also, is it possible the 6th Play's Strike/Spare Unit
is locked in the first step up but the spare light isn't showing? Probably not, but
if so, and the 6th Strike/Spare unit is free, that maybe points to the Player-Step-Up
when on Player 6, or the 6th Player's Strike/Spare wiper board needs adjustment..

posting schem pics like you did in post #5 would definitely help. Might as well do the entire thing and overlap the shots enough that it's easy to see where the pieces go.

a full shot of the entire schematic is also good. If the resolution is high enough, it can be zoomed in on and read.

Yes, that's what I was thinking, but without the spare light on, I thought there was
a chance that the wiper board was slightly off and not the wiper that shows the lit
spare, but the one that tells the machine that a spare is up was making connection..
Anyways. If the 6th Player's Strike/Spare unit is clicked up to a strike at the end of
a game, at the next start up, does the 6th Player's Strike/Spare unit reset?
If so, this will tell us that the 6th Player's reset coil is okay, and the problem must be
in the Player Unit's 1st wiper board, or a wire between the 1st wiper board and the 6th
Player's reset coil, but most likely the board. The wiring is all direct. No plugins in between.
But first we'll want to check if the 6th Player's Strike/Spare reset coil reset's the unit
at the start up of a game..

Okay, and if it doesn't reset, you'll want to check the contacts in the #2 Start Relay.
They're the ones the pulsate at the start up of a game that fire the Strike/Spare Reset
Coils. If all looks okay there (including the wire lugs), then to double check, you can
jump the 6th Player's Strike/Spare Reset Coil from another Player's and then check if
it fires at start up. If not, and even though it looks okay, that coil must have a broken
internal stran or something. And to make 100% certain, you can jump both the neural
and hot leads off of another Player's Strike/Spare Reset Coil to the 6th Player's..
Edit: Also, while those jumpers are still attached, during a game with the 6th player
along with the other Player with the jumpers having a strike up, you can have the 6th
Player shoot an open, and see if that Player's Reset Coil that the jumpers are attached to
fires and resets while the 6th Player's doesn't. That will 100% tell us what direction to go in..

if you have an ohmeter, you can also measure the resistance of the player 6 reset coil and compare it to the player 5 reset coil.

if the player 6 coil is infinite resistance, you may be able to fix the coil if the wire just broke off the lug. If you need to, unwind a turn or two of wire to make it long enough to reattach. You have a 50-50 chance a broken wire is on the outside of the coil where you can unwind it. The other end is buried in the coil and you usually can't get a turn of wire pulled out.

your jones plug is mailing out today.

Yup. Good point, and that would great if that's the case, and then also, you wouldn't want to
forget to scrap the outside coating off of the coil's wire before re-soldering to the lug, but either
way, if that coil isn't firing although juice is getting to it, that would be the best bet. I can send
you one of those coils if needed. Let us know what you find out..

Oh damn. You didn't notice that before? Haha..
Anyways, it should be fine not wrapped any tighter.
I imagine that coil is 30 volt. I expect that it once worked
at one time. I'm thinking you have enough meat there to
solder the wire back on, right?
If any problems, I've got you covered. But I have a pretty
good feeling have this..

Actually, Beer Frame is only Regulation. The traditional frame for Beer Frame (when the Beer Frame light
shows in the backglass) is the 5th frame. I believe when on Beer Frame, if one player bowls a strike, the
other players buy that player a drink. I could have that a bit wrong, but it's something like that.
So Beer Frame is basically Regulation as your machine is playing..
Going to your pm..

I knew there were different adjustments, but didn't know about the Flash Motor running.
The C.C. Ball Bowlers I have were/are all set on 5th Frame. Perhaps when it's in the Mystery
Score setting, it randomly picks frames from the Flash Unit. If you plug it in the 5th Frame
while on Beer Frame?

looks like when the adjust plug is in the mystery side, you can configure the mystery frames to be any/all of frame 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 9

however, the flash motor runs between each frame and randomly makes an enabled frame a beer frame ... or not.

Damn, I didn't finish that statement. "Does the Flash Motor still run?

I'm a little surprised the Flash Motor would run during the entire Beer Frame game,
but that would be a way to keep the Mystery 100% random and not be able to figure
out a true pattern. I never had a C.C. Beer Frame on anything other than the 5th Frame
setting, so I had no idea..

That's the low line fuse holder. You don't want a fuse in that line.
I actually sometimes clip that small bare jumper between the Normal
Line fuse holder and Low Line, so if someone did put a fuse in the
Low Line, it wouldn't have any effect on the machine..

Up to maybe the late 70s, there were still areas that supplied different voltage than normal.
In those areas is where the low line was used..
My very first machine was a 1956 United Shuffle. The transformer was burned out. There
were fuses in both the Normal and Low lines. I can't say 100% that that is all it took to burn
out the transformer, but it's enough for me to clip that jumper wire on the older machines going
from the Normal to Low line fuse holders..