(Topic ID: 52867)

EM : Show us your EM Pinball Machines!

By Rat_Tomago

6 years ago

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  • 662 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by gdonovan
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#1781 5 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

It finally arrived! Thanks O-din for selling me your King of Diamonds! This thing is oh so sweet! And nope not an overlay. I am posting the good and the bad. I would give the backglass a solid 9. Cab with original paint an 8.5 to 9. I would give the playfield a solid 8.5. Very, very nice example of this game. I am very happy!

In regards to rating only (as part of the condition rating discussion going on in the other thread), personally, I would not rate that playfield as an 8.5. There appears to have been some water damage that has been covered up with a lot of repainting. I am not judging the quality of the re-paint, just pointing out what I see. I would rate an 8.5 playfield as being one that was in a lot nicer original shape with only minor touch ups, not complete areas of paint being re-coated like in this one.

You should post those same close up pictures over under the other thread to see what others might say about the rating. They are very nice photos and show excellent detail.

#1785 5 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

We all agree to disagree. I took these pictures extremely close up. The yellows pop and the greens pop. The pictures I took make it look worse than what it is. This machine is never leaving my collection. This is the same machine that someone thought it had an overlay. Every last King of Diamonds I have come across in 15 years never looked as good as this one. Most were very faded playfields where the yellows had turned into a beige color. There was tons more planking and wear around inserts etc. Warped plastics, craptastic backglass repainted cabs with too much webbing. This is not perfect nor is it a collector quality. This is a player plus machine. The areas without touchups which is 90-95% of the machine is a solid 9. The small areas with problems that I took detailed photos of bring the machine down to an 8 or an 8.5 IMHO.

Agreed. The most important part, is that you are happy with your game and that's really all that matters. And I'll leave it at that.

Again, as it relates only to the discussion of rating its condition. Like I said, the photos you took do an excellent job of showing the condition and/or flaws of the playfield. They could be very valuable for the thread discussing how different people rate games.

#1821 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Vic, mine is the "peachiest" I've ever seen. DMs is also quite "peachy" but most "KODs" have faded PFs.Look underneath the slingshot jewel posts to see what the original "coral" (I call it "peach") color should look like.Herb made his overlay from a faded original and then used it on his "retro" disaster! One of the reasons I wouldn't wantto buy one!

The original Overlays that Herb made for his restorations were a very bad color match. We used these on the first few prototypes that were made. However, when it came to Retro Pinball re-doing them for the production run, I corrected all of the colors to the best of my ability comparing it to multiple playfields underneath posts, rails etc. I changed the Yellow, which was too "milky". I change the Baby Blue, which was too faded. And I Definitely change the Flesh Tone (as you say "Peachy" color) since it was too faded. And corrected the Off White which was way to dark or dirty looking. Everyone was very happy with the new run of overlay and how the colors now "popped". Albeit the fact that they still remained overlays. Herb could not believe how "Wrong" his originals were until he saw the new version.

I'll try to get you some comparison photos when I get the chance.

To MTPPC, as has been mentioned numerous times here, the games remaining in the wild are usually pretty worn now. Most of the better ones have long since made it into collections. Most original Backglasses have peeling to some extent - sometimes to a great extent (but its been reproduced a number of times). A good clean original game will typically sell/trade for between $600 and $1200. Excellent examples, if you can persuade them away from the current owners, usually go for much more. When the Retro Pinball project was anounced, even beat up games were going for the $800-$1000 range. But now, a project can occasionally be found for $500.

1 week later
#1857 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

One more

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And a very nice specimen too! I noticed the metal ball shooter guides. Does your game have the normal fluting (progressive groove in the wood) or is it flat there? Those metal guides normally were indicative of the experimental "Composite" playfield material that Gottlieb was trying in that era. They often appeared on the sample games.

#1861 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I had another Solar City that I sold and it also had the metal guides. This playfield does look like plywood, but with three thick plys. I bought this one off craigslist.

I don't know the whole story but that's what Gottlieb was doing at that time, they were experimenting with alternatives to the tradition multi-layer plywood. Some of them apparently didn't have the "Wood Grain" as the final ply. Those featured painted areas where we would normally not see paint (shooter lane, around the flipper area and around Roll Over switches). See this version of Big Hit from Vic in IPDB http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=253&picno=35788

o-din, Is your serial number a sample game (Begins with S)?

#1894 5 years ago
Quoted from AlexF:

From what I understand, you would do this if you were an op and you bought a game from a distributor other than the one in your region. You don't want your local distributor picking up on the fact that you were buying games elsewhere. Scratch out the serials and nobody can track where they were originally sold.

This happened a lot in the days of Ms Pac Man. The "Authorized" Bally/Midway distributor should have been the only place you could get one. But you would see them down the street at the other distributors. We would see the NIB games sitting out on the front curb with the Serial number cut out of the Cardboard box. Hmmmm.......

#1912 5 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Slow news day, so I'll post a picture...

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Excellent Line up for Sure!!! And so Purdy too!

#1915 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

You have two "HTD"s? Cool!

They are linked for tournament play!

2 weeks later
#2098 5 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Here is the only problem we have with Flip a Card.
It is not Add a Ball. So Card Trix would fix that in a jiff.
But at our house we like to play for high scores. We have a large dry erase board on the wall to keep track of everyones personal best, and the games high scores as well.
With Flip a Card, to get a high score, you really need to try to not complete all the cards, which is the games main objective. Once all the cards are complete it turns off the 500 point scoring on the right rollover and just starts awarding free games. These are useless in a home setting and very frustrating when trying to reach a high score.
It is a fun game and is laid out very nicely. We enjoy it a lot, but I'm sure we would be happier with a Card Trix.

The solution to that is to assign a point value to replays. That way, they do apply towards your final score.

3 weeks later
#2206 5 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

I usually find if I clean (or replace if necessary) all the flipper parts and adjust both cabinet and EOS switches (or replace) and check the ohms of the 5194 coil I don't need orange or yellow dot coils. You can also high-tap the game if needed.
I tried an orange-dot once on a Drop a Card and it played abnormally fast for me - not the same as on location.
Of course this is just my opinion - if it works for you and you like it fast and furious that's great.

And I agree with you. I have never needed or wanted to put color dot coils on any of my Gott. games. To me, it ends up making the games un-naturally easy to beat. Properly working hardware and keeping up on the wax job is all they usually need unless the line voltage is low (like at many shows).

1 month later
#2454 5 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

ok it not a pinball but this is my new project. Not like i dont have enough projects as it is ....

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Cool. I have a Hercules gun I need to shop out some day......

#2498 5 years ago

That's funny! Its a Williams Straight Flush with a modified backglass and reversed playfield.

#2499 5 years ago

And guessing it might have an electric ball shooter (unless someone has to hide behind the game to shoot the ball?).

I seem to remember someone asking a long time ago about "Reverse" scoring. In other words, counts 9, 8, 7, ....1, 0 instead of 0-9.

1 week later
#2566 5 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

I really want to get one of the baseball games at some point. I really enjoy the look and I am a huge baseball fan. I have only played playball though. Big Hit looks like a lot of fun with all of the drops at the top. I think it is the best looking of the group as well.

If that is the case, you should just set your sights on finding a Big Hit. For a long time, I was looking for a nice Play Ball as it was one of the games I played as a kid (never saw a Big Hit on location back then). I got lucky enough to find a Big Hit long before I finally found a Play Ball. I was truely disappointed with the Play Ball after having played BH. And I would put the 1970 Baseball at even worse.

I would probably place '72 Grand Slam a close second to BH. All of these games, including Pro Football are great to play with the 5" Gong and both normal scoring and "Point" scoring too.

#2574 5 years ago
Quoted from Darcy:

I am going to start this off with an apology, Sorry Dan, for knocking this thread slightly off target.
Do you EM fans have any of your EM games set to 3 balls only? If you do can you mention which game it is and do you play it that way always or do you switch it to 5 ball Sometimes. Also Post a pic if you feel the need. Photos are great to see.

I prefer my EMs set to 5 ball. No, I would not switch around. Where it really wouldn't matter is on most Multiplayer games since the playfield resets with every ball serve. So, it really doesn't matter if you get 5 or 3, the game just last longer and you "might" get higher scores. I say might since many games when set to 3 balls alter the playfield scoring so that the end result is the same exact final score as if you had played 5 balls. In many cases, this takes away some of the charm of the programming of the EM playfield. Things that used to alternate may no longer alternate. Or where there were only 1 or 2 lanes lit, there may be 2 or 3.

3 Balls was pretty much all about making more money for the operator. Shorter game times meant more coin drop. Adjusted scoring kept a decent spread of scoring instead of the player always feeling like they were getting shorted in some way.

#2594 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Fireball is a game that was designed to never really be beat. Whereas keeping the ball or balls in play and scoring more points is the only goal. Which may seem a little shallow in the rules, but it never gives you the feeling that you actually beat it. Only the feeling that you may do better the next time.

Unfortunately, a nicely shopped one is rather easy to beat once you figure it out.

First, learn the shooter shot for the 3000 point skill shot.
Shoot Mushroom bumpers to increase Wotan hole value (3000)
Second, learn the backhand shot to lock a ball in the right Wotan hole. (Much safer than trying with the left flipper).
Option #1: keep hitting ball into Wotan alley (ball already locked) to score 3000 points.
Option #2: hit the appropriate release mushroom bumper to release Wotan (scoring up to 3000).
Lock, Release, Repeat.......
It has been a while since I had mine set up. I think the Wotan gate opens when all three yellow 1000 lights are lit putting the ball safely in the ball shooter for another 3000 point skill shot. And a repeat backhand. Or it may be when the ball is already locked when this happens.

Its actually quite boring after a while but easy to pass any of the score thresholds by playing this way.

#2596 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Down on paper it may look so, but standing in front of it when it is alive and kicking and having one ball in the pop bumpers, one in the Odin lock, and the third one at the flippers timing the release shot so that it stops on 5000, all the while wondering which direction the spinning disk is going to send the ball next keeps me coming back for more.
If you spend too much time playing any one machine, it may seem boring also. I don't play it every day, but I always get a kick out of it when I do. Plus it looks cool.

Not on Paper. I speak from experience.

That's your mistake in stradegy, the Odin hole is the sucker shot. And trying to get the 5000 is only something worth coming by accident and not intentionally. With two balls in play, your only shot should be to send the ball at the flippers back to the Wotan hole. Then you don't have to keep track of the other ball or hope it doesn't open the flippers on you or get in the way of your shot.

Certainly, with two lock holes and the potential for 3 ball multiball, you would think that your way would be the best plan of attact. But you will see much higher scores (and ultimately a more boring game) if you play as I have suggested. At least, that is what I found. The lock, release, repeat method of playing basically turns it into a never ending add-a-ball game. And, you can always add the odin hole to the mix. You should just never shoot to release it until you have Wotan locked.

I had mine set up for a long time (over 15 years) mostly due to it condition (came out of about 20 years of loft storage at the Pizmo Roller Rink Arcade turned Shopping mall). But ultimately, I found there were better games to have set up that were either more of a challenge to me, or more fun to the crowd.

And yes, it does look Cool!

#2615 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

"Jungle"/"Wild Life" for "Jungle King".

Not exactly true either. Jungle King is quite a bit different than Jungle and Wild Life. Similar to Atlantis, it has a 1 through 10 sequence (albeit not an ordered seq.) to complete to light the WOWs. It does not light off of the 10,000 bonus like Jungle does.

1 month later
#2655 5 years ago
Quoted from PMcGee:

In my OCD quest to gather as many of the Bally zipper-flipper games as I can, I recently picked up 1969 Op-Pop-Pop. Legend has it that it was stored for 20 or so years. It has a couple of fried coils to replace, a broken plastic to repair, and it needs a good cleaning. The backglass has some bubbling and flaking but nothing that bothers me too much. Although I might talk to BGResto once I get it up and running.

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One of the first games I played as a kid. It was located at Sherman Rink in Riverside, CA. I guess someone like the button arrangement since it showed its face again on Bally's Spy Hunter.

1 month later
#2842 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Yep. Big Albino is still there, but the guy I got the Air Aces from was very enthused, so I sold it to him.
We are having a lot of fun with AA, as it is nice to have a four player game back in the garage line-up. It is the first Bally to use drop targets. They reset after you knock them all down or at the end of the ball.

Very underrated pin IMO. Bally's answer to Jack in the Box and Dave Christensen Art to boot. Plus, I love the bright Colors he used. Stark contrast to Old Chicago.

#2848 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Being that So Cal was a Bally mecca back in the day, I'm surprised I don't remember seeing one of these on route . None of us do. Which is what makes it a nice score. There may have been one at Big Johns, but I can't be certain. This one says "Malibu coins only" on the coin chute. So it must have been at a Malibu Grand Prix at one time, I reckon.

I do. Plush Cue in Canoga Park had one. That is where I first saw it and fell in love. As I recall, I picked mine up out of a high rise appartment building in Hollywood or somewhere near by. That was one of the strangest places I expected to find an EM pinball. And my first move of one in a passenger elevator. Oh the good old days of The Recycler hunt!

#2911 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

A friend of mine just sent me this pic from cal x-treme. He said he wasn't sure what they are trying to accomplish. Something about re-theming a Hercules into a 4 Square. Not for the squeamish.
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No. That is Jack's 4 Square Squared - well kind of.

Jack plans to make a "Hercules" size version of 4 Square. He already made the head and the body. I am not sure how far along he was on the playfield. But he had promised the organizers that he would have the game there so he and a friend scrambled to put together what you see there ( I believe last year he had the whole large shell of the game complete with oversized Gottlieb Door casting). Not sure exactly why but If you knew Jack, you wouldn't ask.......

He is the same guy that made the Captain Fantastic that you had to wear Elton's shoes to play it.

He is gathering up the parts from junked Hercules to create the playfield.

#2946 5 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Unbelievable. Was having a great game on my Sure Shot, best score by far, and I thought for sure I was going to roll it. Had the middle pop bumper lit for 1000 points. I was literally one pop bumper shot away from rolling it when I drained my last ball.

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Sometimes, ending a game with 199,990 feels so much better than 102,240.

#2972 4 years ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Great thread! Here's a couple of mine to add.
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Are you using LEDs behind the Sure Shot (Cool White Score reels) and Wild Life (hot spots behind Tarzan) Backglasses?

3 weeks later
#2989 4 years ago
Quoted from manitouguy:

here is a teaser peek of my latest ... finally !! !!
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until my pbr goodies arrived i had no idea how the plastics had faded (and i thought they looked really pretty till i saw the new ones !!)
now who has a good tip for getting acorns nicely to seat on the posts above the plastics (mine came with the white rubber stoppers - a breeze to take on and off, but i like the acorns .. just having a heck of a time getting some new ones down on the posts!)
cheers, Ron

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Are you using a yellow handle nut driver (5/16")? Drop it in and do a 1/4 turn and it should work as long as:
#1, the post screws are original Gottlieb and not some pre-threaded ones from Bally or Williams.
#2, there isn't a really deep groove already cut in the post screw.
#3, you didn't buy off the shelf acorn nuts that are designed for threaded screws instead of the original Gottlieb Speed or PAL nuts that cut their own thread.

If you are using original Speed Nuts, they may be too stripped out to grab well unless you fully seat them. If that is the case, I recommend replacing all with new.

#2990 4 years ago

What's up with the Bounty Hunter Pop Bumper caps?


Atlantis should have red 100 when lit caps


1 week later
#3027 4 years ago
Quoted from poppapin:

Here's a couple of KoDImage (auto-loading disabled)Image (auto-loading disabled)

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Nice KOD. The Pinball Resource sells a sticker set for the Roto Unit to finish that fine game off!

2 weeks later
#3048 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I'm starting to realize I'm going to have to let go of my aversion to shipping games if I want to be picky about titles.

Or be very, very patient! It seems that just when you finally get a title, others seem to pop right up locally.

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