Impressive!

Seconded.

Quick question: Does anyone have advice on the best way to go about clearing a backglass? I started a topic over here:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-clear-a-backglass#post-1288530

...but thought I might find some knowledgeable folks in this thread. I recently purchased my first EM, and the BG is pretty immaculate.

jubileeAnimated-425.gif

I'd like to preserve it, but I'd also like to do it right the first time.

Thanks, guys!
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

Sealing with Kylon Triple Thick is only necessary if you have any lifting of the paint due to moisture, bulb heat, etc.. If you have scratches or other defects where the paint is not lifting or if your backglass just doesn't have any problems, don't seal it. You may cause more harm than good.

If you do seal it, Wal Mart and other stores carry Triple Thick. Since Krylon makes so many different products you have to make sure you get the right one. Ask for Triple-Thick 0500.

Do not clean your backglass. Lay your glass on the floor. Cut up card stock, playing cards etc., to the shape of the score reel windows and credit window. I cut mine slightly smaller than the painted area. Place weights such as quarters, etc., to hold the cut-outs in place. Apply a uniformally heavy 1st coat of triple-thick starting at the top with your can about 6 inches away from the glass. Use left to right sweeping motions and work towards the bottom. This 1st heavy coat "sets" the paint chips that have lifted and bonds them to the product which stops the flaking process. Apply 2 more lighter coats reversing direction each time you spray your glass. Let dry at least 24 hours before you touch-up with paint. Seal your touch-ups with triple-thick when you're done. I spray some in the cap and use a q-tip for small touch-ups.

This is just how I do it. Everyone has their own way.........

What Hoov said.
A couple things I do differently. If the backglass is not the best i just TT the whole thing score windows and all.
If you do it correctly you will never be able to tell.

If there is a large chunk bubbling or coming off after you first light sealant coat I will spray a thick second coat and put some saran wrap over the offending spit and some books on top to lock it down. Let dry for 24 hrs and then spray the remaining final coat(s)

--Jeff

Wow. So if my BG is darn near perfect (no bubbling or flaking, just the most minor of scrtaches in a spot or two) you're saying just leave it alone? Since it is in a temp controlled environment and not on 8 hrs a day it should be good?

Thats my opinion yes

--Jeff

Concur!

Like McCartney sang... "Let It Be."

Leave it alone. If it survived almost 40 years without anything but proper care then it will survive another 40 as long as you take care of it and keep the machine indoors in a climate controlled room.

Ken

I didn't read it.

Awesome. Thanks for all the quick and consistent feedback. That makes for an easy decision.

Much appreciated, guys!
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

Still working on my Capt Card - coming along nice.

As for backglasses - I now do as little as possible - too scared of messing them up!

top of ball arch.JPG

Lookin' good. You need to add it into your Pinside collection.

I also like doing this. I also like taking all the metal bits under the apron and the metal piece that holds the glass, and having them re-chromed. Just like the way the light hits and reflects. Not really bling just makes them pop. Only worth doing if keeping for a while, as most people wouldn't notice really.

This is the CC metal piece at the back - re- chromed.

IMG_7251.JPG

I thought that one was looking extra shiny. I like it!

Very nice........

What do you usually spend on re-chroming?

Good question. I'm curious as well. It certainly is a nice mod to a game one would consider a long term keeper. Most of us Em guys are pretty frugal though and I always assumed sending stuff out to chrome was pretty expensive.

Every place is different from what I hear and chrome prices seem all over the place. That bit was around $40 from memory. Can just do small things like the runaway shields etc or go all in and do a 31 inch set of legs which is expensive!

Not so bad really. Do you have a preferred chromer you use?

I think for most people you find the nearest you can and then go and talk to them in person and expect a few delays etc but worth it in the end.

I want to send some parts out to chrome, who does yours and how $$?

As I said, personally think best to go local, in person and try and negotiate - my prices change depending on who I see!

Yea, SS, what do you pay to have that part rechromed? I have looked into it locally, and it seems really expensive around here.......

Here's a few pics of my latest-Pin-Up. Really, really nice game, perhaps the best original condition I have restored!PB190768.JPGPC040807.JPGPC020792.JPGPC020788.JPG

A Pin-Up (or King-Pin, for that matter) with no wear below the kickout hole? Outstanding (and rare).

That's so niceeeee!
I'd bet HUO for sure.
Please if you can post some more pic's of that gem Pin Up.
Too bad the wedgehead Add a Balls don't have a total game meter like the replay games do so you could document & view the actual total plays.

Yea, I don't really want to part with it, but have other projects that are waiting and need the room. (game is already spoken for ) Considering *all* the original paperwork was with the game in pristine condition as well....
Here's a few more to enjoy!

PC020776.JPG
PC020783.JPG
PC040798.JPG
PC040802.JPG
PC040804.JPG

I do not say this very often but the pin up is HUO... the coin mech area is like new and I have NEVER seen a king pin or pin up with out a little wear at the kick out hole area. this one shows no sign of even a dimple in the paint.

great game thanks for sharing

That Pin UP looks like factory new.
Is a schematic taped to the backdoor?

Thanks for letting us see a true mint condition Gottlieb EM.

Holey moley, that is a sweet looking, clean machine.

Beautiful, and kind of amazing. That Pin Up, has been hiding somewhere.

wasn't taped to the door, but that copy is there if you look closely!
Thanks for the props guys, now I wish I had put it up for auction!? dooh!
(was just looking at what the 'clinic' was selling for $3495-with an extra box of bulbs!)

Hot diggity, that looks nice! Any pics with it installed?

Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
http://www.ElephantEater.com

Have one picture - I just like this area of p/f to look good as this is how it would have looked back in the day - so it is an original look so to speak, not a mod.

IMG_7645.JPG

That is one super nice Pin Up. Looks HUO for sure or very very low plays. Thought mine was nice as have nearly zero wear on kick out hole, but this one is as good as it gets. Definitely a $2000 plus pin. I mean, how often are these pins found in this condition? Also it just happens to be a great player as well!

No arch wear on that CC either! (or nice job cleaning up) Paint looks pretty minty as well.

I think Pin-Up must have been out on the street for a little while. There were a few minor beverage spill stains in the usual places (coin box area/under lock bar). Perhaps it didn't earn well and was pulled soon after. Since this was 1975, solid state games would have been out within a couple years. Either way, the new owner will have a really nice example.

Sure wish I could find add-a-balls here in Denver. That pin-up looks great and being an add-a-ball must be a lot of fun for the home player.

Thanks, Shape!

Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

I had several of this same receiver channel rechromed a little over a year ago. I sent mine to Mike Chestnut in TN. I don't know if he frequents here but his work is outstanding. He is a pinball guy and his own games are exceptional to match his work. He has been doing WPC game habitrail plating for going on a decade now.

He charged me $35 each which included some repair on most of them where there was rust/pitting. They all came back amazing. I did have to cover the shipping on top of that both ways.

Let me know if you need contact information for Mike.

Mike O.
Team-EM

Hi Guys,

I miss seeing your sweet EM's and I'm sort of going into withdrawls. Ha-ha! So here's my attempt to bump this thread and also get some answers from any EM vets still poking around this thread.

As you may have seen above, I got my first EM a week ago: a Jubilee. My pop bumper caps are a little faded and worn:

jubiPinkPop.jpg

...and...

jubiGreenPop.jpg

My questions are:

1) Do they make reproduction pop caps for Jubi?
2) If not, does anyone have suggestions for refurbishing that wacky atomic "100" symbol on the top?

Also, I'm thinking about doing a cabinet restore, but I've never removed siderails from a machine before. So...

A) Does anyone have tips for removing the siderails from a '73 Williams machine?
jubiSiderail.jpg
B) If I mess up, does anyone sell them?
C) In addition to the little nails/tacks that hold them in place, there is also adhesive. Once I get them off, what is a good way to RE-adhere them to the cabinet (in addition to the nails/tacks)?

Thanks, guys!
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
http://www.ElephantEater.com

Steve at Pinball Resource has those caps. Just bought some.
The way you order them is by the center color and the outer color.
So your bottom photo cap would be a Yellow Sun 100 Blue squiggle.

A lot easier to find then Star Pool was. PBresource sells blue sguiggle "100"s, maybe not the exact color, but better than burned up old ones.
http://www.pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm

Oh, perfect! Thanks a bunch for the tips, Arcade and O-din!

To remove the rails, use those disposable putty knives WalMart sells in the auto section I think. It's a pack of 3 different sizes in red. Find a spot you can squeeze one in and tap it under, work your way along the rail being careful not to put too much pressure on any one area. I have done a dozen machines like that with little to no damage to the rails.