Guessing the new "spinout" race car was initially added to cover up some PF wear from KOHole.
Great Job.

Spin out decal - thanks for the kind comments guys - yes one of my long overdue projects

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-protector-decal-for-my-beloved-spin-out-em-purists-hide-your-eyes

My grail pin arrived safe & sound. Any guesses what it is?

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Thing?

Nope. Here it is and it's an unmolested beauty.

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I'd love to play one of those at some point. What a cool concept.

Wow, what a beauty. I was wondering what your avatar was from. This explains everything. Love the look of that game. Please post some gameplay video!

working on these right now

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"King Tut"?

Holy cow! That's a beauty. Didn't you have another one?
Edit: Yes, I see you have them next to each other on the woodrails thread.
I didn't realize it's another one of the pinball/bingo hybrid series that Williams ran.

Three volley at one time! It's like a Stern production line. Volley is one fun pin.

Wow, production line going there Every collection deserves a Volley I say!
Really one of the most fun EMs I have and my son and I play it often.

Need a back box?

I'd say that is only related to those bingo/pin hybrids. More like one of Williams few trap hole games...Twenty Grand is another one that comes to mind. They were really experimenting in those days though...so much variety!

To me, the only bingopins are Hong Kong, Starlite, Disk Jockey, and Four Corners. Those have 15 trapholes each...GC gets close to that with 9, but it also doesn't have that mini-bingo card in the BG like my 4 do.

Sean

Thanks, I love it and it's mine. What a wonderful feeling to own the first pinball I bought as a kid again.

Yes, it has an almost perfect backglass. Here are the "twins" next to each other.

It's already helped me with finding where things go and what's original for this game. I thought the inserts on the first game were original but someone must've replaced or sanded the inserts because the second game shows the originals.

For example, I found a dangling spring from the coin mechanism on the game and used the other game to find where it hooks up to. It also helps as a reference guide for re-assembling the steppers after cleaning/lubing them.

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1977 Gottlieb Big Hit. Nice original example, with only 27K on the meter. The playfield cleaned up well. I still need to clean the cabinet. Plays fast.

Original operator's envelope with extra scorecards and manufacturer's notices is always a welcome item. I have an extra original Big Hit schematic (and an extra original Volley schematic), in the event that anybody needs one.

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Picked up my first EM today. It has a temporary home in my living room, until I move in a few weeks.
I’ve just started delving into threads on EM cleaning and repairs. There are so many conflicting ideas, it’s kind of overwhelming. Naphtha vs Novus vs Whatever to clean the PF and can.. WD-40 or not for reels.
Anyone have any recommendations on a good place to start?

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http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm

100% agree with EM Pinman’s suggestion. Read that entire site on EMs and then you’ll have a good working knowledge of where to start. (Oh, and never use WD-40 on an EM. You will find a very few instances where a DROP of oil can be helpful but that’s it).

Welcome to the EM club!

I believe not so much conflicts as variations on similar themes using different products & methods but principles generally pretty similar on EM threads. As suggested pinrepair is a great resource along with vids guides on this site. You have started with a great game.

Bit Hit is my favorite baseball themed EM hands down. The ruleset while simple, is much more fun and engaging than it's earlier competition. Drop targets make a big difference and the long special shot is very satisfying. I've restored several.

You have to evaluate the degree and type of schmutz on whatever you're cleaning, and use the least agressive method that will do the job.
Also, when cleaning a playfield, evaluate the degree of planking and wear to determine what type of cleaner to use. I will avoid using any type of water-based cleaner on a playfield if it has significant wear and planking.
Naphtha is good for removing layers of old wax. I'm starting to use Novus 2 as a first polish after thoroughly cleaning the playfield, but not as a cleaner.
With any product, always try a small amount first in a small area to check how effectively it will work.
With experience, you will find what works best in each case.

Regarding 'cleaning by spraying', I think most today will agree that this is not the best way forward. I'm not even 2 years into the is hobby and still can't see how spraying everything with WD-40 is going to help things in the long term. I'm restoring a pin now just covered in WD-40 and it's been a real mess to clean it all up. You wouldn't clean your dirty car by just spraying some chemical on it and walking away - you have to remove the grime.

So many advocate for cleaning contacts with alchohol then polishing with Dremel and then swab again (I've adopted this from Nic). Contacts are left factory-shiny and smooth where before they were covered in black soot. This however is a time consuming process but worth it in the long run. Filing contacts can work too but contacts are left rough and not as clean but this works too and is a faster fix because even the rougher surfaces meet enough to provide contact. Anyway, main point is spraying with WD-40 is at best a temp fix and a poor way forward in my opinion.

Back on topic, here's my latest restoration.

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Freakin Beauty!! Want it

That Surfer is cherry!

Love the slight under-spray on your cabinet. Did you repaint? How'd you manage the under-spray? Looks factory!

Also love the fact that your inserts are perfectly flat and the black key-lines look perfect. What's your process on both? Nice work sir!

Very nice work!

Thats one beautiful machine-beautifully done!

Here's my one and only EM. Prior home was a dirty, dusty, damp garage in the hills of Tennessee. I moved it across several state lines, cleaned it up, made a few repairs, and got it working 100%. It now has a new warm home.

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That is factory. The cabinet was very nice to start although there were some unsightly holes from a security bar. Inserts are leveled with varathane after touch ups. Process based on Cliffy/Clay techniques. Thanks for the props guys. Afterdoing this for 10 years, I have a method that works for me.

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Bought this pioneer yesterday

Picked up my first one! Shoots pretty nice for 131k plays

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Speaking of which - I just (more or less) finished my second EM

As she came:
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And one budget shop out where you're married and live in an apartment and work on pinball machines in the living room but your wife is awesome and forgiving later:
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(Evapo-Rust is the single greatest product ever.)
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How long do you let your parts sit in evapo rust for.

I have found some parts are ok after a couple of hours but generally overnight is the go. I agree it is a miraculous product. On some products (eg lockdown receivers) I clearcoat after evaporust & have found that provides long term protection.

Hi wayner where can you buy it in aust

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Shaggy/Clay?

Supercheap Auto but wait until they have their 20% off sales.

Yes. Though he has since graduated to autoclear.

Make sure it's warm enough...Ken Layton schooled me on this recently - Evapo works much better over 60 degrees F. I tossed a whole gallon thinking it had been "played out", but it was probably just too cold in my shop(like it is in the winter) and I didn't know...c'est la vie.

Sean

Yesterday was a good day, picked this great looking Mayfair up in the afternoon. Went to the first stop on the Train, Hall & Oats concert tour, here in Sac, last night with my honey. The Mayfair had been restored about 5 years ago according to the family selling it. And looks like it had. No project pin here, just need to clean and wax the play field and enjoy.

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Nice find.

I have to ask, what does your comment regarding going to the Hall and Oats concert have to do with the pick up? Was that to settle your wife due to the game purchase?

I read a handful of threads here and the go to answer seems to be 24 hours. Really, I just let the amount of rust decide. My legs weren't too bad - I think they were in for roughly 16 hours or so. Leg bolts and nuts for maybe 6 or so so, probably didn't even need that long.

I think the coin door was around 12, but once again that was probably more than it needed.
Lock down receiver was the worst - it was in a full 24-30. (Then 20 minutes or so in the over at 160) Came out great.

Made a PVC tube container as most people have. Works great for the legs and lockdown bar.
I went with a 3" PVC tube instead of 4" Two legs can be submerged at a time in a single gallon.
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Found some plastic bins at Target that the coin door fit into really well. Minimal extra space, allowing the evapo-rust to fill the bin higher.
If you remove the hinge, you can just about submerge the entire door in a single gallon.
https://www.target.com/p/56-qt-clear-storage-box-blue-lid-room-essentials-153/-/A-53214474

Good point. Temperature affects the effectiveness. I did mine in the tub of a spare bathroom. If it's Summer time and hot out, I've seen people claim they've had legs done in a couple hours.

Just curious if your Backglass is glass or plexi?
Or maybe a Webb repro?

(Mine was an original plexi BG)

Here is my Midway Raceway, have a Bill Davis playfield all original

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Lol no, concert just made a good day better.

It’s original glass. Looks like has been triple thicked, and touched up in one area.