(Topic ID: 198990)

EM repaint. remove motor board and all hardware?

By DropTarget

5 years ago


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#1 5 years ago

Hi,

I'm repainting a CC Beatniks. I have the head sanded and am up to dismantling the cabinet. As I'm looking inside the cabinet, I'm already starting to regret the process. I know the correct thing to do would be to totally remove everything from the cabinet, but it appears to be a daunting task on this game. How many of you completely empty the cabinet, remove the motor board, hardware, side rails, door, etc as opposed to masking all of that off and just sanding and repainting from the rails down? I'm not looking to make the machine look factory new, but I am looking to restore the art, which was painted over by a previous owner, while still doing a good job.

#2 5 years ago

Hopefully you took the siderails off. But yes take it all out. Its a good way to learn and repair/clean all pieces of the game. After you do 3-4 then you can reassemble with ease. Ive probably done 50...

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#3 5 years ago

Trust us, the less than 1 hour it will take you to completely break down the machine to a bare cabinet, will greatly out weigh the many hours of hassles you will come across from trying to tape everything off. Take a lot of pictures as you tear stuff down, put all screws and parts in separate labeled bags. It will be very easy to put back together. There is a great video on YouTube on how to take the side rails off in less than 5 minutes.

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#4 5 years ago

thanks,

nice looking paint jobs.

I've done some wedgeheads, but this CC is a pita.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Trust us, the less than 1 hour it will take you to completely break down the machine to a bare cabinet, will greatly out weigh the many hours of hassles you will come across from trying to tape everything off. Take a lot of pictures as you tear stuff down, put all screws and parts in separate labeled bags. It will be very easy to put back together. There is a great video on YouTube on how to take the side rails off in less than 5 minutes.

Great job on the River Boat. Great game.

You have to take it all apart. There's really no other good option.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Great job on the River Boat. Great game.
You have to take it all apart. There's really no other good option.

Thanks EM, it's a 14 month restoration hopefully coming to an end in about two weeks. I plan I starting a thread. Here's a peak at the bottom board.

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#7 5 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Thanks EM, it's a 14 month restoration hopefully coming to an end in about two weeks. I plan I starting a thread. Here's a peak at the bottom board.

I thought I was the only person idiotic enough to disassemble and polish a score motor. I've done it a few times then wonder why the hell I did that.

#8 5 years ago

Damn that's nice

#9 5 years ago

OK, OK fine! you talked me into it! it's all apart! I see the path this is going to go down, where's my polishing stuff?

I do have a painting question. I usually use Montana spray paint or latex, and have had pretty good luck. This time I may use oil based paints, as I want to use my LPHV gun and it says not to use latex with it. The question is, for an EM, should I use flat or semi. In the past I think that after the colors have been sprayed, I used a clear semi, but it's been a while, so I'm not positive. What's your 2¢

Actually I'd like to spray lacquer, it's gotten hard to find. Any good sources? Maybe I'll start a thread on that topic, if there already isn't one.

Thx
-W

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Hopefully you took the siderails off. But yes take it all out. Its a good way to learn and repair/clean all pieces of the game. After you do 3-4 then you can reassemble with ease. Ive probably done 50...

That is one beautiful Jet Spin cabinet in Post #2!

#11 5 years ago

So not to hijack this post, but seeing this leads me to a question. If not repainting a cabinet, in particular a 1950 wood rail. Is it ok to treat the bare wood interior of the cabinet. It is 67 years dry, so thinking of some kind of wood care product. A few quick suggestions would be helpful. And beautiful cabinet repaints, shown here, wish I had that kind of talent.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

So not to hijack this post, but seeing this leads me to a question. If not repainting a cabinet, in particular a 1950 wood rail. Is it ok to treat the bare wood interior of the cabinet. It is 67 years dry, so thinking of some kind of wood care product. A few quick suggestions would be helpful. And beautiful cabinet repaints, shown here, wish I had that kind of talent.

I have used a "Wipe on Poly" product on interiors of cabs to fix oder issues

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I have used a "Wipe on Poly" product on interiors of cabs to fix oder issues

sanding sealer will also keep that funk locked away. that is after you sand the surface.

#14 5 years ago

Boilerman...

Satin or flat paints for EM cabinet?

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Boilerman...
Satin or flat paints for EM cabinet?

I'll take this one: Satin. It'll actually look flatter than you think. Flat looks way too...flat.

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I'll take this one: Satin. It'll actually look flatter than you think. Flat looks way too...flat.

Thanks,

That's what I used, but it still looks a bit too glossy. This time I used an oil based paint instead of latex. In the past, I've used latex or Montana spray paints. Perhaps after I spray with satin clear.....

#17 5 years ago

Satin clear will also look too flat. If spraying with a clear urethane or clear acrylic use semi gloss.

#18 5 years ago

thx

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Satin clear will also look too flat. If spraying with a clear urethane or clear acrylic use semi gloss. glo

I use semi-gloss on the DMD-era games. Looks too shiny to my eyes on a Gottlieb or CG. It works better on a Bally or Williams.

Also, the OP said satin looks too glossy, and you're telling him to use semi-gloss. Whaaaaaaaat???

#20 5 years ago

I suspect that it may depend on how much paint he uses.

In my experience 1.5 to 2 cans of Minwax water based semigloss polyurethane will give you a finish close to that of an original Gottlieb cabinet from the mid 70's. That's where my opinion comes from. The satin was too flat.

#21 5 years ago

type of paint is a major factor in what sheen is the best...

#22 5 years ago

I'll experiment.

I've never sprayed oil before. I can say that it takes forever to cure.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I'll experiment.
I've never sprayed oil before. I can say that it takes forever to cure.

oil will be one that satin will be best or simi if you are thinning more than 10%

shooting oil, the humidity is the key. lower the better, or it will be tacky for days

#24 5 years ago

Rather than oil why not spray lacquer like they did originally? Or are those not available where you are?

#25 5 years ago

I had good luck HVLP spraying Ben Moore Super Spec DTM Alkyd Semi-Gloss on two cabinets. Half a quart did the job. Dried enough in an hour so bugs wouldn't get stuck in it! Not cheap, but fast building and great coverage.

On the interior, perhaps a shellac (film finish) would encapsulate odors better, and stick to possibly oily/waxy areas.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Rather than oil why not spray lacquer like they did originally? Or are those not available where you are?

Not available

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from Model237:

I had good luck HVLP spraying Ben Moore Super Spec DTM Alkyd Semi-Gloss on two cabinets. Half a quart did the job. Dried enough in an hour so bugs wouldn't get stuck in it! Not cheap, but fast building and great coverage.
On the interior, perhaps a shellac (film finish) would encapsulate odors better, and stick to possibly oily/waxy areas.

Thanks, I'm using Benjamin Moore Impervo. I'm liking the way it lays down, maybe will try Super Spec DTM on future projects.

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