(Topic ID: 219468)

EM Puzzle: Williams 4-player tilt switch. Let's fix it.

By NicoVolta

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by CactusJack
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#1 5 years ago

4-player Williams EM owners... I may have found a disturbance in the Pinball Force.

Maybe. Let me explain. This one comes from a '72 Fan-Tas-Tic.

fanfail (resized).pngfanfail (resized).png

The section at the upper left is a switch in the tilt relay. The score reels (and free credit for high score) get their power through this switch. It is normally closed (i.e. when game is not tilted).

IMG_5971 (resized).JPGIMG_5971 (resized).JPG

Our culprit, pictured up close. Yellow common on one side, white-orange on the other.

The question to ponder: Why cut power to the score reels when the game is tilted? Tilting the game already cuts power to the score relays, so why worry about the reels?

The action to ponder: If this switch for whatever reason fails to stay closed (game not tilted), the reels won't move. However, the score relays can still be energized! And thus, the nightmare situation... cooked chimes, match coils, and relay coils. Possibly several all at once.

For safety's sake, why not eliminate this switch altogether? This will guarantee power to the reels at all times.

I don't know why Williams did this. Correct me if I'm missing something, but I don't see any benefit to cutting power to the reels during a tilt. The score relays get cut anyway, so what is the point? Seems better to eliminate this potential source of failure (and fire) and permanently jump it closed... just in case.

Right?

I looked at Space Mission/Odyssey and it has the same circuit design. Looks like many other Williams'ses share it as well.

Anyone see any reason why this switch should be preserved?

#3 5 years ago

Nothin'. The top segment is the free credit after reaching a high score portion. Again, seems irrelevant to disable it if you can't score while in tilt.

#7 5 years ago

It did cause a problem in my case. The switch wasn't making good contact, causing infinite relay holds. Luckily only the match coil smoked, but it could have been a lot worse!

I tested my theory with a jumper. Works fine when tilted. Or not... obviously.

I'm going to do this to Space Mission as well. It has the same layout. In fact, EVERY 4-player Williams I checked has the same configuration from Hot Tip (1977) all the way back to A-Go-Go (1966). No 2-player or 1-players use it. Interesting, eh?

I have an emerging theory: Laziness.

Big Chief (1965) was the last 4p released without a separate tilt relay portion. All games before it have BOTH the score reels and relays controlled by the same tilt switch. With A-Go-Go, a second tilt switch was inserted up the line... without going back to remove the first one.

Perhaps the engineers were cruising on autopilot and simply copied the 4p layouts year-to-year?

I say solder it shut. Doesn't seem to do anything except potentially cause a big problem.

Time to issue a sweeping technical service bulletin for 4p Williams owners?

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Switch guarantees that no extra points are awarded. In 4p games, score is everything. Tilt disqualifies ball.
All depends on what state the machine is in when the game tilts. Most of the time it'll be fine. Sometimes, there's a chance that the relay losing power will be in the process of moving the reel.

Hi Nick. I see that, but the speed of a reel-click must be in the hundredths of a second. Furthermore, if a tilt occurs *after* a relay was struck, it makes more sense that the point should be scored versus not.

It is hard to believe Williams would have installed this vulnerability just to interrupt wildly improbable reel clicks (which should be awarded anyway). To me, the evidence looks like a design oversight that was copied year after year.

I could be wrong, but at this point I don't see how. If the relays control the reels and depend upon them to unlock, the power should only be switchable at the relays for safety's sake.

Quoted from jrpinball:

Maybe to keep bonus points from registering after a tilt? This is basically what "bingopodcast" said above.

They can't. If the score relay power is also cut, the reels won't turn.

Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

Maybe I am dense this morning.
Without studying the schematic, the text of the OP states in multiple places that power is cut to the score relays. It also states that the score relays can still be energized.
Just as a cold reader, the language does not make sense to me. To say that there is no power to the score relays and then that the score relays can still be energized isn't clear. Maybe I missed the point???

It is confusing, but essentially there are two locations in which the tilt relay cuts power. One to the reels, the other to the relays. If the reel-portion is faulty (i.e. switch is physically closed but isn't passing current effectively)... the relay portion will still remain active and burn up.

It's more of a safety/bulletproofing thing. Seems better to let one switch do the job versus risk the redundant one failing and taking out multiple coils.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

You're saying that coils could potentially burn up because they wouldn't be de-energized by the EOS switch on the reel unit?

Right. If that always-on tilt switch is faulty for any reason, it'll cause big problems.

Imagine this... switch becomes faulty during a game (bad gap? dirt? something falling in there?). P1 10 reel locks, then 100, then 1000. 10, 100, 1000 chimes also locked on. Match locked on. Game is still on and flips, but not scoring. Player walks away. Game cooks itself to death.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Sounds like the pinball equivalent of Chernobyl! Why don't you run a non-destructive test, simulating that scenario. Of course, intervene before smoke and flames occur!

Already did, and it does. Now commencing with "the tilt safety fix" on all of my 1966-onward 4p Williams'es. Haven't checked every single 4p schematic since A-Go-Go, but it's a good educated guess considering the consistency through the end of EM-production.

Anyone who trolls with "Well, the game works fine if adjusted properly..." is getting a boot to the head, Ti Kwan Leep style!

#21 5 years ago

fanfail (resized).pngfanfail (resized).png

This is one switch in the tilt relay. It feeds power to the reels.

fanfail2 (resized).pngfanfail2 (resized).png

This is another. It feeds power to the relays.

If the tilt relay closes... both switches get cut. This is fine and normal.

If, however, the "reel portion" switch is faulty, WITHOUT the tilt relay closing = problems.

What am I missing?

#23 5 years ago

If the reel EOS doesn't release the relay because the reel cannot move, what usually occurs next?

#25 5 years ago

A different switch in the tilt relay (red -> red/yel/wht) then a switch to reset relay (red/yel/wht -> blu/yel/wht) then a switch to game over relay (blu/yel/wht -> black).

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

I don't think so...
I'm talking about Grey-Blue 3. This is the opposite side of the SPDT of the tilt switch in question. This is the third use of that wire in the schematic - they are not connected to the other two uses.
Where does that wire go?

I confess... the answer eludes me. Find it?

#30 5 years ago

Whatever it does, I doubt it is a backdoor to the EOS switches... so the vulnerability is still likely to exist. Just an educated guess.

I'll see if I can find the other end of that wire today. Elusive little sucker on the schematic!

#33 5 years ago

Aha! Bonus points to Rolf! Thanks everyone for your insights. That switch ensures the ball index relay closes (ball saver ends) before a 10/100/1000 point target was hit. It prevents someone from tilting their way out of a bad plunge and getting an extra ball.

At this point I'm pretty confident to call this an action item. All Williams 4p EM's starting with A-Go-Go should have the tilt relay yel/white-orange connection soldered shut for safety's sake... ASSUMING all of the schematics follow suit.

(which they certainly appear to do)

#35 5 years ago

I recommend the safety fix for Grand Prix as well. Circuit topology is the same.

Tilt relay - yellow to white/orange. Solder it closed.

If you'd like to test it yourself... start a game and block that switch with a piece of paper or qtip or whatever is your non-conductive material of choice. Then activate some 10/100/1000 point targets and see what happens. But don't wait very long before unplugging it.

Engineers sometimes build upon what previously existed, right or wrong. Seems like the case here.

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

This is an answer in search of a problem.

...except it actually began as a problem. Perhaps as the machines age, more will pop up.

Typical answer: "Grind away them contacts and hope it doesn't happen again".

Not good enough. The circuit design seemed fundamentally pointless and needlessly vulnerable.

And, as it turns out, it is. Unless someone can explain otherwise?

So...

burns (resized).jpgburns (resized).jpg

#51 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Oh, was your switch dirty? Why grind the contacts or sand them with your metal wheel (did anyone mention doing that)? Why not just adjust the switch?

Switch was clean and wiping well with good pressure. However, it was one of those edge cases. Some contacts can be a bit pointy on the surface area, which I suspect might have been the case. Then again, I've seen this happen with well-formed contacts too... so I don't know. Maybe 1 out of every 200-300 pairs just needs a little extra persuasion/adjustment. Unfortunately, it just happened to occur on THIS particular switch, which was obviously one of the worst places for that to happen.

In hindsight, a good thing. Now it definitely won't happen again.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Question for you - what happens with and without your mod when a score reel coil is detached on one side (and cannot move)? The answer is you are still vulnerable.

True, but this is the case for all EM's, isn't it? At least the fix removes a large variable from the "things to go awry" list. At least seven coils could lock this way, possibly more. Might as well do it.

Quoted from EMsInKC:

For what? A problem that basically isnt a problem?

In global IT circles, we refer to these issues as "vulnerabilities" and deploy "hotfixes" to remedy them. This would qualify as such.

#57 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Sure thing - your game, your mod, go for it. I would rather fix the problem. We are taking different approaches to the same problem, that's all. Get some rest!

I need some. Badly. Getting a bit grouchy lately... uh oh. Don't want to contract PHOFitis.

Just to pry, is it a "keeping things original" motivation? In the grand scheme of things, a tiny switch in a tilt relay in an antiquated amusement machine is a pretty tiny thing indeed. But it does seem that soldering it closed makes things just a wee bit more certain than not... so why not? *poke* *poke*

#64 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

OK, I'll bite:
It resolves one failure condition and does not protect against the other. The switches are not in the game for no reason.
Yes, the fact that you can burn multiple coils is a problem. How would you design around plugs? Similar issue. You're addressing a symptom and not looking at the wider issue. The real issue, in my mind, is that the relay is not adjusted properly. The tilt and game over relays on Williams games are of incredible importance. So much of the games' logic runs through there. Similarly, the 0-9 unit. Your switch can be as shiny as a mirror and still not function - you've started to ask why that might be.
And yes, I am a giant originality stickler. That's why I've poured so many hours into making the Multi play as accurately as possible.

...and that multi-bingo is one HELL of a machine. And I want one! So I won't pick on your insistence upon originality. But I'm not certain the engineers had a rock-solid reason for doing this. Some of the stories I've heard at Lockheed... oh... nevermind.

Obviously you and I can adjust relays properly. I'm pretty sure I've rebuilt well over a thousand by now. But the underlying circuit just bugs me. The possibility of seven (or more) coils locking at once isn't something I ever want to happen.

As Mr. EMKC has stated, the likelihood is low. But since it happened to me, I had to figure out what the tradeoff is... and there doesn't seem to be any upside to leaving it as-is.

So, away it goes. *shrug*

#65 5 years ago

Also... I still want to replace my Bally jones plugs with strips of banana terminals.

Original? No. Better? Likely!

But that is a discussion for another day...

#72 5 years ago

In the car world, Zac and I would be resto-modders.

Blasphemy to some, delicious air conditioning in Texas summers to others.

“Your mileage may vary”

#76 5 years ago

I’ve imagined a number of scenarios but fortunately the circuit is a simple one.

The tilt relay is almost always feeding power, so the variable to ponder is when it opens the switch. Is anything lost by *not* cutting the connection while in tilt?

Each reel still has to go through a relay switch. Since those are also switched off in tilt... seems to be a moot point whether they have power or not.

I tend to make these types of decisions relative to downside risk. The switch isn’t likely to fail. But if it does, it’ll fail big... and doesn’t really do anything otherwise.

I don’t think Williams thought this one through. Looks like an absent-minded copy and paste job.

(really hoping I’m not missing anything by now!)

#84 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

True, but in that case it was saving them money by skipping 2 screws, 2 fuse folders, 2 fuses, and 4 extra solder points; plus labor. This individually does not amount to much per game but over 100,000 or so games odes add to the bottom line. So why fix it if its making them money and is rarely a problem. In this case it was costing williams money to keep adding a "useless" switch that could also cause problems. I think there's gotta be a reason to keep it in the design all that time. Too lazy to change does not overrule the bean-counters.

Bean-counting and second-guessing has nothing to do with it. This is simply a technical question being solicited for peer review. If Williams had a good reason for installing this switch, then what is it?

I don't see one.

I -do- see an extremely good reason -not- to do it.

With this one switch failure, at least seven coils can fry. Or more.

Figuring out what Norm Clark had in mind 52 years ago won't be possible, as he is sadly no longer with us. Then again, we don't know if he personally drew up that portion of the schematic.

Older games show the evolution of the tilt relay function. One switch used to be the "catch all"... then another was installed further up the line for the relays. But the old location remained in place.

Why?

At this juncture, two philosophies have emerged:

A) I don't know what Williams had in mind, but they must have known what they were doing despite the potential risk.

B) Williams accidentally overlooked a potential safety issue which typically isn't a problem, but when it is, it's a really big one.

I'm in camp B. Evidence to the contrary will move me to A, if it exists.

#86 5 years ago

Plug failure? As in the jones plugs connecting the motherboard to the head?

#88 5 years ago

Yes, but plugs and solder joints can always be problematic in and of themselves. Those are different issues. This fix only concerns the removal of the tilt relay switch... bridging it permanently closed for an extra hint of safety.

What do you mean by rewire the game?

#92 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

That's what you're doing, you're only doing part of it.
Closing that switch does provide a hint of less coil burn. But only that. You are assuming that the rest of the circuit is similarly fine. Multiple failure points. You just found the end of the chain. My point is that you have to rewire the game (remove the switch entirely, including the travels up and down the game) to take that failure point out completely. Again, this is your game, do as you please - my notes are only to complete the picture for others reading this thread.
You could jumper it in the head instead and that would be less problematic, but harder to find.

Yes, this is the intent. The fix only eliminates the switch itself as a potential source of failure. However, it is the most significant piece of the puzzle, as it is the only portion of the circuit expressly designed to cut power to the reel coils.

Agreed, it would be most optimal to bridge at the head and bypass the redundant wire and connection points. But as an easy remedial fix, this should suffice.

#93 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

Of course bean counting isn't why the "extra" switch is in there. If it served no purpose the bean counters would have eliminated it. The fact they did not eliminate it points to it having a purpose.

Not necessarily. Color TV's were still new back then. Different era. Accounting/inventory practices hardly similar to today's JIT/Lean/6-Sigma methodologies. Also, accountants are not schematic designers... and this looks like a copy-and-paste operation carried over for convenience's sake. Aka "if it ain't broke..."

You are assuming because it is there, it should be. A little skepticism is healthy. Research and testing better still.

#95 5 years ago

I like it. We should optimize things when it makes sense and improves reliability.

A new thread should be created for each issue. Otherwise it would be too easy to confuse different issues. I mean, look at where we are now with closing just one switch.

Do you want to open a new thread for the "Blue A" outhole switch question? Maybe start with "EM Puzzle" in the thread title too.

#96 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

Of course bean counting isn't why the "extra" switch is in there. If it served no purpose the bean counters would have eliminated it. The fact they did not eliminate it points to it having a purpose.

One more question to ponder: If switching the score coils on tilt was so essential, why only on 4-players?

Haven't seen this configuration on any Williams 2-players or 1-players.

Looking more and more like...

#98 5 years ago

The only difference is a player stepper unit (selects 1-4) vs. a relay (selects either/or). Regardless, both are situated after the open relay switch on their respective circuits. Except for the bonus credit portion. Stepper comes first in that case, relay switch afterward.

Shouldn't make a difference. Stepper or relay or point-to-point wire... same job to do.

#105 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Correct.
Now, what happens should that unit fail to turn and the switch remains engaged? Or it only turns partially. The player units on Williams games use these large conductive areas on the stepper itself. What could that switch be doing with regard to the player unit?

Wouldn't matter. It's only there to make a connection and the circuit is bridged by a score relay switch. If the relay isn't closed, nothing happens either way.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

This returns to one of my earliest points about none of us understanding the purpose of that circuit at a glance and the potential danger of bypassing it without understanding. Vast majority of the time it's probably fine to bypass, much like the switch in normal operation...
Could the player unit itself burn? I dunno. I find it unlikely, but that's one of the only other things in the circuit, and something that hasn't been addressed at all in the comments thus far (that I remember). Williams player units have snowshoes (good for wicking), and big traces... not that they should be getting more than 24V, but if the unit is misadjusted and 24V goes to the wrong place, I suppose the worst that would happen is some blown out bulbs.

Probably not. It might cause two players to get points simultaneously, but I can't imagine two adjacent rivets would have been wired to be dangerous from a partial advance. We'd probably see extensive carbon tracking during normal operation if so... the rivets and wipers are pretty big.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

That switch you're bypassing has a job to do as well. (We just don't understand fully what the job is, or, if we do, it seems to serve no purpose, and the defense of a copy/paste mistake doesn't carry a lot of weight, nor the claim that the 'bean counters' would ignore it forever...). Neither of us needs to leave convinced of the others' position, of course.

No worries. I'm choosing to call it a mistake. It may not be one, but empirically the apparent uselessness of its default condition versus the rather large potential downside doesn't leave much room for generosity.

Quoted from jrpinball:

Jumper the switch temporarily and put the machine through it's paces for a while. I'd tilt it more than occasionally though to check what, if anything this modification has done. If no adverse effects occur, permanently jumper the switch, but note it on the schematic.
Nic has done us a service by pointing out this potential issue. Take it or leave it. If he receives similar flak in the future, he might just decide to keep his findings to himself, rather than sharing them here. He has his head buried in these games more than probably eighty percent of us here, so I consider his contributions to be valuable. Thanks, Nic.

Only 80%? LOL I KID, I KID! Thanks JR... just sharing what I see. I've already decided to solder the fix in place. I've sincerely tried to find a downside... just don't see how it could possibly be better off without it.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Hopefully he doesn't take my discussion of the problem as criticism. That is certainly not my intent. I just enjoy these kind of puzzles and thinking a problem like this through.

Not at all & me too. EM puzzles are fun. Except bingos. Those I will leave for you... for now.

#109 5 years ago

I believe the crossover point is Big Chief (1965) to A-Go-Go (1966).

From A-Go-Go onward, the layout remained the same until the end of the EM era for Williams.

Whatever the reason, it would have to answer this question: “Why do only 4-player games need to have the power yanked specifically from the score coils while tilted, despite having another switch which does a similar job at the relays?”

#112 5 years ago

The thing is, the replay/extra ball award circuit still has to travel through a score relay switch, so how is cheating even possible?

As a failsafe, it seems like a bad tradeoff. If the second tilt switch failed (stuck closed) during tilt, it would be apparent pretty quickly what the problem is and at least wouldn't melt down the machine. Whereas the consequences of the always-closed switch failing are much more serious. Also, the likelihood of a switch failing to open within a working relay is less likely than one which should stay closed at all times carrying live current to multiple coils.

However, I'm with you. Let's keep digging. I noticed the bonus wheel on A-Go-Go and Fan-Tas-Tic (and associated award relays) don't travel through the second tilt. Seems like an AHA moment! But as always... all points must ultimately travel through the score relays, so they would still be blocked.

And thus, I'm back to the original conclusion again.

Moving the smokestack "further back" is a win in my book. A smidge more reliable? I'll take it. True, there are further degrees of safety which could be followed (jumpering at the head/plugs/fuse installation)... but so it is with everything EM, eh?

#116 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Well if that were the case, the game would smoke for a different reason, now that I think of it. Not in normal operation, but in tilt, and only with your mod...

That's an astronomical nitpick, Mr. Baldridge. A maladjusted relay would show issues at the start of every game, even if left original. The fact that it would "also happen in tilt" is moot... because if this is truly some kind of "fallback circuit", it STILL wouldn't help because the tilt relay snaps closed when the ball drains. Thus, the problem would resume immediately afterward.

Do you honestly believe the engineering team thought they should protect against a relay maladjusting itself... only during tilt... and only then requiring the operator to catch and fix the error before the ball drained?

Defending originality in some cases is hard work.

#118 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Only requires one switch on the relay to fail. Those replays are exercised more than any other in the game.

Yes, but again, if "secondary tilt protection" is necessary... why only 4-players and how would it stop malfunctioning during the non-tilted part of the game?

Maladjusted relays are always a risk. All EM platforms can fail when throwing sparks around with relays. Can't be helped. I don't see enough architecture in the tilt circuit alone to prevent it.

#121 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

But like the OP said skepticism is healthy. He's skeptical of the design. I'm skeptical that 50+ years later he found an issue that no one else ever did. I think the engineers, ops, techs, and later owners would have found this issue, if it was one. If there wasn't one WMS wouldn't have paid to add the extra part and work.

I'll admit, I'm getting a kick out of that possibility ("yay me!"). Of course, I may still be proven wrong and am open to that. All in good fun and learning. But you have to admit this is one heckuva puzzler! It isn't purely theoretical either. A real risk is present here. Unlikely, but with potentially big consequences otherwise.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Sure, but only in your scenario will a coil burn.

No... what would happen is that a burning coil wouldn't stop burning for those few seconds on the way to the drain. It would never cause anything to burn on its own.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Do you disable replay award in the museum? How about eb? What about match? Match should be ok, would need to check.

Nope. All enabled.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Only 4p? Again, you have different units that you run through on a 4p game. Player unit and 4x score reels which allow for replay or eb award. Yes, it's based on position of that unit. Thinking like a cheater, player unit is kinda accessible with a coat hanger for Williams games, huh? Push with the hanger and you can bridge multiple steps easily. Might tingle a bit without tape.

Now there's a new possibility. However, it wouldn't work. Rotating the player unit rotates all of the reel connections. Score thresholds wouldn't transfer to other players by turning it. Would take some sort of elaborate "just so" type of short to accomplish. Even then, the score relay is key, and it wouldn't be closed.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Sounds like you're stuck in on this, so we will have to agree to disagree. There is a purpose to that switch. It cuts off the score relay switch in question when tilted. Also, the replay award calculation circuit.

Yes, it indeed cuts power to the score coils and extra ball/replay coils. I just don't see why it ever should. Especially considering the potential downside.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

I don't understand your last question... during the non-tilted portion? When the reels are active, perhaps you hit the replay value as you tilt. As designed, you don't get your credit. As modified, you get your credit, then the replay circuit locks on. Ditto for trip relay for eb, if trip or hold. You're safer to use eb award vs replay with this change.

Even as designed, the only way you wouldn't get the credit is if the tilt happened the first millisecond after hitting the target with the ball. Really splitting hairs on this one. 999 times out of 1000 you'd still get the credit... and this is only an issue when tilting *precisely* on the replay! How often does that happen?

If modified, that thousandth-of-a-second miracle replay tilt would be awarded. Just not an issue.

Replay and EB circuits go through the score relay switch. Can't lock on, modified or not. Why is EB safer?

Quoted from bingopodcast:

You can ignore it if you choose, your game, etc. I won't say 'at your peril' because your change is relatively harmless. I don't think it needs an apb. But that's my opinion.

All good. All of this is for learning and bulletproofing anyway. I do feel slightly more secure with the mod in place, considering it failed on-site with no one watching. Could have been worse. At least I'll sleep well knowing it can't happen again. At least, not at the switch... hahaa

#123 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Eb is safer because it is via a relay meant to hold on. Not so with credit.

Right, but how would the credit be any riskier? I mean, EB couldn't hold on either after a tilt.

#126 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Yes, it could and would - in both cases - EB has to hold so that you are allowed to play your EB. It is unaffected by tilt. If you got it, you got it.

Au contraire, my friend. At least on Fan-Tas-Tic, the extra ball relay is wired through the ball index relay... and that is wired through the other switch in the tilt relay. Thus, if the tilt trips, the index trips, and the extra ball hold is broken.

Tilt = buh-bye extra ball

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Same for credits. They are -normally- affected by tilt. Momentary pulse of the stepper is cut off. You're leaving that path active, and forcing it so. I'd have to check and see if there's a switch on the credit unit that is unaffected that would cut power to the coil on step... can't remember off the top of my head.

True, but I'm good with the score relays doing the gatekeeping here. Won't fire or lock without it.

#128 5 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

Really? The schematic shows that the score relays allow it to remain... 3 NC switches and a hold switch on the relay itself. Yes, the ball index switch cuts it off, but only when the ball index drops... due to score. Unless my super-quick read of the schem is wrong - which it very well could be.

Tilt relay is also on that circuit path. It's the "other wire" Rolf found earlier... the grey-blu.

#131 5 years ago

Appreciate all the thought you guys have put into this. If separating the current draw was the primary goal, I assume it must have been to protect the 4-player stepper unit rivets and wipers... which didn't exist on 2p and 1p games. That's the only architectural difference.

Still, why switch it? The score relay switches divide the circuit between the player unit and tilt switch. Who is to say which portion of the tilt relay would activate/throw sparks first?

#132 5 years ago

(and now I'm going to watch some games from the backbox with people trying to tilt it... field test!)

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