(Topic ID: 311828)

EM Pinball Machine Won't Start

By BradF

2 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by SteveFury
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#1 2 years ago

Hello! First time posting to this forum. I hope you can help me.

Subject is a 1956 Williams EM pinball machine "Super Score" (IPDB No. 2440). Bought this machine from an antique dealer in RI about a year ago. The machine had been refurbished, but little did I know I had a tiger by the tail! After spending ungodly amounts of money to have the machine serviced by incompetent service people, I decided that if I was going to keep this machine I needed to learn to service it myself. After reading B.B. Kamoroff's excellent book "Your Pinball Machine" I feel much more capable to do this!

I've learned that the machine is never "fixed", and is only between repairs! My latest issue has me stumped. After powering on the toggle switch, the replay button does not start the machine. It doesn't do anything at all. The machine is wired for "free play" but I'm not exactly sure how it is wired for this. I've studied the schematic and the logic for machine start up is quite complicated, with many interdependent circuits. When I flip the toggle switch to apply power the machine trips the "GAME RELAY" and the "TILT RELAY", so the relay bank is getting power. I believe this may be normal behavior, these relays are reset by the relay bank reset solenoid when the replay button is pressed. But unfortunately the replay button doesn't do anything at all. The relay bank reset (120v) is actuated by a step unit that does some other things, but the step unit is not being energized when the replay button is pressed.

I've included some photos that may be helpful. Would appreciate any advice you can offer.

Thank you!

Brad

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#2 2 years ago

First, double-check that the 50V fuse isn't blown.

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When you press the REPLAY BUTTON, the RESET RELAY should energize. This occurs when:

- the switch on the GAME RELAY is closed
- the zero switch on the REPLAY UNIT is closed

Assuming the fuse is good, inspect those two switches; the latter is how the game is on "free play" -- someone adjusts that switch so that, even when the replay unit is at 0, it still is closed (indicates it is not at zero even though it is)

The square boxes on the schematic indicate the wire colours, you can use that to find the correct switch in the stack.

#3 2 years ago

Shouldn't there be just one ball in the game also?

#4 2 years ago

You can see ball trough switches in the schematic; so not a one ball game.

#5 2 years ago

Kamoroff book was the first em guide I bought over 20 years ago and a great book to get started.

Now check out pinrepair.com, still the best resource for troubleshooting and repair. Once you understand some basic principles the advice on this forum will become much easier to understand and valuable.

Learning to read schematics will save you many hours of hunting down problems. Joe's Classic Video Games on youtube has hands on troubleshooting and repair of em pinball games.

That's a great looking game. Welcome!

#6 2 years ago

Dr Nybble’s advice makes sense. I just need to locate the REPLAY step unit. Possibly in the back box, I haven’t opened that up yet.

Also appreciate the resources mentioned. As the new caretaker of this lovely lady I’m anxious to learn as much as I can.

Will let you know how I make out. Thanks for the advice!!

#7 2 years ago

There looks to be a small window in the bottom right of the backglass to display the replay count? Look there.

#8 2 years ago

Good eyes Dr Nybble! I never noticed that before!

It occurs to me that my problems could be attributed to the connector strips that attach the back box to the play field (see photo). I had an intermittent issue with the lights that I solved by pulling these strips and cleaning the contacts. I may have introduced other problems, and possibly a break in the electrical pathway to the RELAY step unit. Also the balls played lights aren’t working. I will need to check all of these connectors very carefully.

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1 week later
#9 2 years ago

Thank you Dr. Nybble. The problem was exactly as you suggested. The zero switch on the REPLAY S.U. was open. I manually cycled the replay counter to 40+ credits. Machine is working great now, until I run out of credits! I suppose the solution is simple, just short the zero switch with a jumper wire? What baffles me is that the machine was already wired for free play. I'm not sure how it was wired, or why it stopped working. So I have a little more troubleshooting to do.

Incidentally, you mentioned the wire codes in the schematic but the number codes are a mystery to me. Is there an online reference for these number codes?

Thanks again. This is a great resource, very happy to have found it.

Yours in pin, BradF

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#10 2 years ago
Quoted from BradF:

Thank you Dr. Nybble. The problem was exactly as you suggested. The zero switch on the REPLAY S.U. was open. I manually cycled the replay counter to 40+ credits. Machine is working great now, until I run out of credits! I suppose the solution is simple, just short the zero switch with a jumper wire? What baffles me is that the machine was already wired for free play. I'm not sure how it was wired, or why it stopped working. So I have a little more troubleshooting to do.
Incidentally, you mentioned the wire codes in the schematic but the number codes are a mystery to me. Is there an online reference for these number codes?
Thanks again. This is a great resource, very happy to have found it.
Yours in pin, BradF
[quoted image]

I like to use a short alligator jumper wire across zero switch to enable free play. Previous alternate free play attempts are usually disasters in wiring and need to be hunted down and restored to factory original.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from BradF:Incidentally, you mentioned the wire codes in the schematic but the number codes are a mystery to me. Is there an online reference for these number codes?

This topic might help

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-williams-schematics

#12 2 years ago

fwiw, item [1] in post #2 should read 27-1 and 27-2, (not 27-1-1 and 27-1-2).

the wire code is:

primary_color-tracer_color-instance

jumper wires can be any color or bare wire.

'course, the wire colors fade, get grimy, and after beating your head against a wall on a problem for a while, they all look the same.

your best shot at seeing a wire color is looking in harnesses where the wire is protected. Often tho, you need to figure it out using a meter if guessing didn't work out.

#13 2 years ago

The easiest way to set up a replay game for free play is to pull back on the insulation of the two wires leading to the zero position switch, and twist the conductors together. Easy to do, and to undo, and no need to bend switch blades where they are not supposed to be.

#14 2 years ago

Great information. Thanks everyone!

#15 2 years ago

Beautiful game.
...but the LEDs

#16 2 years ago

As a EM pinball repair noobe, you may find the article I wrote here helpful.
The title says it all.
Most of it centers around a 1970s Gottlieb but the basic concepts therein are absolutely incorporated in your game.
Including the process of reading and interpreting schematics to fix your game.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic

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