(Topic ID: 305632)

EM noob Grand Prix resurrection

By ptrav1

2 years ago


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  • 185 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ptrav1
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 185 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 2 years ago

That’s the left inlane switch

#152 2 years ago

Well right inlane is setup the same way so I doubt that’s it

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Well right inlane is setup the same way so I doubt that’s it

yep thats not it. back to the drawing board.

#154 2 years ago

Been lurking in the thread. Looking for the drive to get back to my Dumpster dive 76's night rider. It's nice to see you progress on Grand Prix its a very fun game. I should have got a good one back when i saw 2. You having some of the very battles i had with my game. Learning the schematics (still driving me wacky) then looking inside making sense of what you see.
So keep the fight i will keep on watch. I think your going to win before me.

#155 2 years ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Been lurking in the thread. Looking for the drive to get back to my Dumpster dive 76's night rider. It's nice to see you progress on Grand Prix its a very fun game. I should have got a good one back when i saw 2. You having some of the very battles i had with my game. Learning the schematics (still driving me wacky) then looking inside making sense of what you see.
So keep the fight i will keep on watch. I think your going to win before me.

Thanks for the encouragement. I had given up for the day, but after reading your post I decided to go back down and give it another look over.

Someone soldered a common wire onto the play field shoot again light that went to common wires on the bottom of the playfield that connected to the blue wires. I thought that I would snip it and connect it to one of the yellow commons to see what would happen.

Boom. Problem solved. I suppose at one point someone solder that one back together but instead of soldering it to one of the yellow commons they soldered it to a blue instead. I need to do some play testing, but I think that fixed it.

First pic is where they had it soldered before. Second pic is where I jumped it to the yellow common

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#156 2 years ago

That seemed to do the trick. A dozen games or so with no issue and the replay lights are working appropriately.

On to the next thing. Does anyone know how to get the chime to work on things like the slingshots and the advance bonus switches up top by the 5000 saucer? If I manually press them they will activate the chime but it seems no matter how hard or soft the ball hits the rubber, the switches and kicker fire faster than the game can register the hit. I’ve fooled around with adjustments but don’t seem to be making progress.

#157 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

That seemed to do the trick. A dozen games or so with no issue and the replay lights are working appropriately.
On to the next thing. Does anyone know how to get the chime to work on things like the slingshots and the advance bonus switches up top by the 5000 saucer? If I manually press them they will activate the chime but it seems no matter how hard or soft the ball hits the rubber, the switches and kicker fire faster than the game can register the hit. I’ve fooled around with adjustments but don’t seem to be making progress.

Check the schematic to see if the score reel end of stroke switch is involved in holding the score relay on. It usually is. The point of that is to keep the relay on long enough for the chime to sound, the carry over to occur, etc. it’s common for those switches to be mangled, broken, or misadjusted.

Good luck,
Dave

#158 2 years ago

I probably spent two hours messing with the 10 point relay and the 10 point switches up top and on the kickers. Everything seems to be clean and appropriately adjusted.

If I touch the relay with a feather the chime unit sounds but somehow it still isn’t activating the chime unit when the ball hits the advance bonus switches up top. The kickers will register a chime unit sound about 50% of the time. I watched the relay while the switches were activated with a ball and it seems they were all making appropriate contact. Kind of at a loss on this one for now. I’m gonna move on to something else and circle back later unless someone has suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

#159 2 years ago

The end of stroke switch is on the score reel and should get opened when the plunger is all the way in the coil. The relay should stay on until that happens.

Dave

#160 2 years ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

The end of stroke switch is on the score reel and should get opened when the plunger is all the way in the coil. The relay should stay on until that happens.
Dave

K. I checked that last night but I’ll check it again. So thinking this through that eos switch should open only when that coil plunger is all the way in correct?

#161 2 years ago

Correct. That EOS switch should be in the hold circuit for the scoring relay. In other words, the relay won’t release until the score reel plunger opens the EOS switch. You could do a test to make sure that the switch is properly in circuit by putting a jumper wire across the EOS terminals. Just don’t leave the machine in the stuck state for long, turn it off and remove the jumper once you see it go into the state where the score relay is on and the plunger is pulling. If it doesn’t go into that state, you have a broken wire or messed up switch.

Dave

2 weeks later
#162 2 years ago

Thanks for all the help so far. It's been a minute since I've had a chance to put some time in fixing my remaining issues. Still haven't got the chime unit figured out yet but moved on to some other arguably more significant issues.

1 - Coin unit - Game wouldn't start a 4 player game
Solved - brought the mech panel up where I could work on it. Took the coin unit apart and cleaned and lubed the shaft and adjusted spring tension and the switch. Problem solved.

2 - Player unit - Game doesn't cycle to the next player during a game but if the player unit is manually moved things work just as they should. This I believe is two separate issues. First I don't believe the player unit is getting power to pulse the coil to move to the next player. The reset coil works however. For example, if I manually advance through all the players it will reset to player one once all players have played their first ball. Second issue. I took the unit apart and cleaned/inspected. It freewheels great when the player disc (the one with all the little spring loaded contacts) is not attached. When the player disc is on it seems the tension from all those little springs causes quite a bit of resistance to smooth functioning. I must be missing something here. Maybe thats just how it is but it seems that it took a lot of revolutions on that spring to move the disc once it was tightened down.

I did put a spring replacement kit on the player unit.

#163 2 years ago

Interesting development. Soaked the player disc in some mean green and made sure all the springs on the snow shoe contacts were actuating freely. Dried off, Put back on and started a game. To my surprise it let me start a two player game and actually advanced players during the game. I then started a 4 player game and it advanced through each player. It didn’t give an extra ball to the second player when extra ball score was reached. But hey I thought I’m making progress. After that game i started another and then it began doing the same stuff as before. Not advancing to the next player after a ball.

At this point I suppose the problem may be a connection on the player unit. Going back in to test/play and see if I can identify the issue.

#164 2 years ago

Update. I was just beginning my deep dive on the schematic to test the circuit that energized the player unit step up coil. I thought maybe I should just test the coil to be sure it’s not shorted or something. So I set my multimeter to ohms and checked the resistance. It checked out just fine but had to monkey with the lugs a bit to get my meter on them. And voila now the step up unit works. Must have been a bad solder joint on the lugs or something. I’ll resolder tomorrow.

Played for the last two hours with my son and it works on multiplayer games. The tension on that disc or the spring could still use some adjustment because it still gets stuck kind of in between player two and three and three and four. Played a dozen 2 player games before it started doing the same thing on the 2 player games. Overall making progress.

Anyone know how many turns should be on that player unit spring?

#165 2 years ago

Three turns is the general standard. Try that to start, then add a turn if needed. This assumes that the unit is ungunked and moving freely.

#166 2 years ago

Yup, if the contacts are cleaned up it’s likely to be gummed up. Increasing spring tension is a band aid fix.

#167 2 years ago

Disassembled the player unit again. A little more cleaning. Removed the thin film of grease I applied to the contacts. Put the original spring back on and with a little adjusting now she’s playing 100%. I would like to add some sort of lubricant to the contacts. I tried the super lube stuff just a thin film but wiped it off when I cleaned up the disc again. Is that the best stuff to use? I’ve also read that some type of Teflon lubricant would be good.

#168 2 years ago

All in all very pleased with where it is compared to where it started. Still have a few small things to chase down. I’ll post a list soon. Thanks again for all your help folks.

#169 2 years ago

No lubricant needed on the contacts.

#170 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

I tried the super lube stuff just a thin film but wiped it off when I cleaned up the disc again. Is that the best stuff to use? I’ve also read that some type of Teflon lubricant would be good.

Yes, Super Lube is recommended on the rivet heads on the disc.

#171 2 years ago

A new Grand Prix series from Ronnie

#172 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

A new Grand Prix series from Ronnie

Awesome!

#173 2 years ago

I hope you are watching these latest videos, he’s literally talking through what every switch and coil is designed to do, pretty much covers any and all problems with schematic explanation. This series mixed with the last has pretty much gotta talk through any troubling scenario all Grand Prix owners would run into.

#174 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I hope you are watching these latest videos, he’s literally talking through what every switch and coil is designed to do, pretty much covers any and all problems with schematic explanation. This series mixed with the last has pretty much gotta talk through any troubling scenario all Grand Prix owners would run into.

yep. ive watched every minute. he's talking through a lot of the stuff i had to figure out with pinside's help. really helps understand how it all works. only issue i have left are my chimes. i haven't had time to work on it in a while but I'm sure ill get it figured out.

#175 2 years ago

just watched the one he posted yesterday. with this series and the prior he worked through about 90% of the issues i had

2 months later
#176 2 years ago

so if none of my score reels activate the chimes when it's tallying the score after a ball drains, where is the common place I should look to further investigate. during game play the chimes work but not 100%. If i hold any playfield switch even half a second I get the chime, but sometimes the ball hits so quick it won't activate the chime. but it never chimes at all during the score countdown after a ball drain.

#177 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

so if none of my score reels activate the chimes when it's tallying the score after a ball drains, where is the common place I should look to further investigate. during game play the chimes work but not 100%. If i hold any playfield switch even half a second I get the chime, but sometimes the ball hits so quick it won't activate the chime. but it never chimes at all during the score countdown after a ball drain.

Have you rebuilt the chime unit with new coil sleeves and chime mounts (you can get a rebuild kit from PBR or Marco)? Sounds like your chime plungers are gummed up and dragging. The bonus countdown should have a note for each step. It might miss a note every now and then but almost all should hit.

#178 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Have you rebuilt the chime unit with new coil sleeves and chime mounts (you can get a rebuild kit from PBR or Marco)? Sounds like your chime plungers are gummed up and dragging. The bonus countdown should have a note for each step. It might miss a note every now and then but almost all should hit.

Yes sir. Rebuilt with a kit from Marco. This one really has me puzzled. If I manually actuate any of the 10, 100, 1000, or 10000 relays the chimes sound every time no matter how lightly I push them. But when the game is firing them rapidly during the score reel counts it doesn’t make a sound.

I stepped away from this about a month ago to clear my head and come back at it again. Can’t wait to get this one solved.

#179 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

If I manually actuate any of the 10, 100, 1000, or 10000 relays the chimes sound every time no matter how lightly I push them. But when the game is firing them rapidly during the score reel counts it doesn’t make a sound.

No matter how lightly you press them, the game is still pressing them lighter and for a shorter time.

If the rebuilt kit didn't include new chime plungers with the nylon tip, the tip is likely too short. You can try raising up temporarily the 1000 pad underneath with something and see if it hits then. If it does you just need to raise that rubber mat up slightly with another layer or 2 of dense weather stripping foam.

#180 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

No matter how lightly you press them, the game is still pressing them lighter and for a shorter time.
If the rebuilt kit didn't include new chime plungers with the nylon tip, the tip is likely too short. You can try raising up temporarily the 1000 pad underneath with something and see if it hits then. If it does you just need to raise that rubber mat up slightly with another layer or 2 of dense weather stripping foam.

I'll give it a shot and report back

4 months later
#181 1 year ago

Alright folks. It's been a bit since I've had time to mess with this game. Other than the chimes, which i don't know if I'll ever figure out, I only have a few minor issues left till this game is playing at 100%.

Here they are in no particular order, though I can't help but believe they are related.

1. The RIGHT lower stand up switch advances both bonus ladders/activates both RIGHT and LEFT advance relays. The LEFT lower stand up switch functions normally advancing only the LEFT.

2. The LEFT outside roller switch/LEFT outlane scores 10,500 points instead of 10,000.

3. Top eject hole scores 5,500 when advance LEFT bonus is lit. It scores normally when the RIGHT is lit.

So there they are. The only remaining game play issues. I have to think 2 and 3 are intimately related. I've looked at schematics for hours and examined relays and switches that seem to be related to these areas. I've also watched all the Joe's Classic Arcade/Ronnie's videos on Grand Prix, which are awesome by the way.

Hadn't messed with the game in months and then dove back in a couple nights ago to try to finish her off. As it stands now, its a great playing game, I just want these final bugs worked out. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Travis

#182 1 year ago

Have you carefully adjusted the 3 bladed bonus advance switches on each side? If they are not right, all sorts of bonus goofiness ensues.

#183 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Have you carefully adjusted the 3 bladed bonus advance switches on each side? If they are not right, all sorts of bonus goofiness ensues.

Well. I thought I had. But I’ll go back and double check when I’m able to get back down to the game room.

1 month later
#184 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Have you carefully adjusted the 3 bladed bonus advance switches on each side? If they are not right, all sorts of bonus goofiness ensues.

This man is a genius. Takes me a minute to get around to messing with games. Work, family, other games, etc. But sure enough, the stand up switches were actually misadjusted on both sides. Put in the correct spacing and problem solved.

Now the only issue left is figuring out the chimes. I suspect it has to be somewhere on the score reels because I was a bit lazy and only thoroughly cleaned the ones that weren't working when I got it. I'll methodically go through and disassemble and clean each one and see if that fixes the inconsistent chime issue. But as far as scoring/gameplay she's 100%. Thanks for all the help getting to this point. It took about a year of off and on tinkering, but its quite gratifying to see one come back to life.

Currently have a Rancho that was a complete mess. Been working through it a little at a time for months. Haven't even powered it on yet, but getting close.

Thanks for all your help folks. Have a great week.

#185 1 year ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Alright folks. It's been a bit since I've had time to mess with this game. Other than the chimes, which i don't know if I'll ever figure out, I only have a few minor issues left till this game is playing at 100%.
Here they are in no particular order, though I can't help but believe they are related.
1. The RIGHT lower stand up switch advances both bonus ladders/activates both RIGHT and LEFT advance relays. The LEFT lower stand up switch functions normally advancing only the LEFT.
2. The LEFT outside roller switch/LEFT outlane scores 10,500 points instead of 10,000.
3. Top eject hole scores 5,500 when advance LEFT bonus is lit. It scores normally when the RIGHT is lit.
So there they are. The only remaining game play issues. I have to think 2 and 3 are intimately related. I've looked at schematics for hours and examined relays and switches that seem to be related to these areas. I've also watched all the Joe's Classic Arcade/Ronnie's videos on Grand Prix, which are awesome by the way.
Hadn't messed with the game in months and then dove back in a couple nights ago to try to finish her off. As it stands now, its a great playing game, I just want these final bugs worked out. Thanks in advance for all of your help.
Travis

Fixing misadjusted standups fixed all these issues.

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