Figured I would share this you folks.

I feel as far as mechanical ability repairing EM's that I have a talent for repairing, modifying, or replacing factory parts that are no longer available with the same or better quality replacement. This I feel is one of those modifications that is better than original.

If you are like me and cannot stand dim or non-operational light sockets especially for Feature Lamps and only like to replace them with new ones that last another 30 years, then this solution is for you. You can use this type of method on some other Gottlieb machine light grids as well as other manufacturers.

When Grid Light Sockets are shot and have to all be rebuilt just like I had to do on my Gottlieb Bank Shot, I rebuilt mine which IMO came out better than the factory original as you could easily replace a light socket down the road by simply un-soldering a spot of solder and unscrewing the socket from the Grid. The factory light sockets were pressed into the Metal Light Grid which was fine if you never intended to have to replace a light socket again. I may end up doing this to my new Gottlieb Sure Shot as well in the near future.

What you need to accomplish this task is the following in order:

Sharpie and Sticky labels: You will need to mark all wires to the Metal Light Socket Grid and the Grid itself and un-solder all wire connections to the Grid as you will have to remember where they all go back when you reassemble the Grid. My advice is take close up pictures as well for reference. Now Remove the Metal Light Grid. Note in picture: I left all the marking and labels on my Bank Shot Grid but if you want it t look original again you can simply use rubbing alcohol to get the Sharpie markings off along with just removing the sticky labels by hand.

A Large Pair of Pliers: You will need these to crush the old light sockets in order to get them out of the Light Grid which is a PITA to say the least and is the hardest part of the process as you have to make sure you do not bend up the Metal Grid especially around the light holes while extracting the sockets. Use a back and forth motion as you are basically using metal fatigue to get them out, so be patient and careful.

New 7/16" Drill Bit: You do not want a dull drill bit as you will have to oversize the existing holes to get the new light Sockets to fit in the Light Grid. Make sure you have the Grid securely fastened down as the drill bit will tend to want to twist the metal Grid, but if it does twist it simply put the grid on a flat surface and hammer flat again.

15 New Light Sockets from Pinball Resource part # A2914: These sockets are not plug and Play! You will have to modify them by using your Pliers to flatten down the L- Bracket on the end of the socket that has the hole in it where the screw secures the Light Socket Bracket to the Metal Grid. This bracket will then lie flat against the underside of the Metal light Socket Grid.

15 Self-Drilling short Screws #6 x 3/8" Pan Head: These have to fit the hole of the Light Socket in which you will then drill thru the Metal Light Grid with to secure the Light Socket to the Grid. Once the light Socket is screwed onto the Grid you are ready for solder.

Grandpa High Heat Soldering Gun: Clean the area to be soldered, Flux, and Heat up a spot on the Metal Grid and side of the Socket Bracket simultaneously and apply a drop of electrical solder. This will take a little bit to get the heat to transfer as the Metal Grid is thick so be patient.

Reassembly: Reattach Metal light Grid to the bottom of the Playfield and make sure your new light bulbs are installed first! Simply follow your Sharpie and sticky label tags to make sure the wires get soldered back on the right way and you are done! Note: I would install new #47 Light Bulbs which illuminate just fine as that every time a bulb burns out on this type of Grid you have to remove/lower it to replace a bulb.

To me the process is easy but a bit time consuming so I would say reserve at least a couple hours as most of your time spent is making sure you do not destroy your Metal Light Grid while trying to remove the light sockets. Note: I had to hammer my Metal Light Grid flat about 3 times during this process so do not despair as it is forgiving, just don't rip the metal.

I will post more pictures down the road if I end up rebuilding my Gottlieb Sure Shot Light Grid, but for now I'm sure you get the picture, pun intended.

Hope this helps you folks to Endeavor to Persevere in your pinball fun!

Ken

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Thanks Chris.

Just doing my part to spread the word brother!

Ken

Actually you do just let the Grid hang by the wires to change a bulb but you must take out/loosen 2-3 of the holding screws to do it which really is not a big deal, just saying that seeing you have the Grid out to do this rebuild you might as well put in new bulbs then just save your good used #47 bulbs from the grid for easier to change out locations on the game.

Ken

Not worth doing on a Gottlieb Bank Shot or Sure Shot, maybe on some other games with more difficult access.

Ken

The way I look at it, I went through all this trouble to insure that I would not have dim lamps, so between the solder and the screw I have 2 different paths for current to travel in case one fails like a poor or cracked solder joint seeing the metal light grid plate flexes or a screw backing out.

Also a big benefit to the screw is that you install that first, then the solder spot thus holding the lamp socket tight against the metal light grid to insure a good solder spot.

Ken

Thanks boilerman.

Your new Slick Chick is looking nice. Can't wait to see pictures of the end product.

Ken