Quoted from PinballHelp:
Generally-speaking, I think high-tapping is a way to compensate for not doing high-quality flipper assembly rebuilds. If you maintain the game well, you don't need to high tap.
I don't high-tap my games. I do sometimes put LEDs in to reduce the voltage drain. But I'm a big fan of making the games play the way the original designers intended. When you make the flippers a lot stronger you throw the balance and design of the game off. I also feel the same in many circumstances with clear-coating playfields, although I'm a proponent of it when it is necessary to preserve the game.
If you put a game on location, it's a different matter. High-tapping a game can probably increase the machine's earning and make the game more appealing and have the core functionality be solid for a longer amount of time. Tim Arnold is a fan of it for those reasons IMO.. if casual players like it and it earns, do it. But in a controlled environment where you want the game closest to the way it was originally designed, I advise against high-tapping.
It's not just for the flippers. I rebuild the flippers on every game I buy. That's the part that keeps getting lost here. It's the overall quality of the game. Clay talks about that too-he also is a proponent of taking turns off that bumper coils to increase strength.
Car designers designed cars to drive a certain way, but there's a whole industry devoted to aftermarket parts to make them handle better, have more horsepower/torque, look better etc. It's a pinball machine. It's not the Holy Grail. I prefer leaving them stock if the game plays well that way, but if it doesn't, a few mods isn't going to keep you from getting into pinball heaven.
Again, the "broken plastics" argument is BS. I have a Bally game that runs on 50v, way more power than the little increase you get from high tapping the game. Of course, the coils are size appropriately for that voltage. But the bumpers on this game are DC fast, faster than my high tapped Gottliebs, and still, no broken plastics, except for one that would break regardless of the voltage-it's a design issue there. I don't think the designers of WMS DC games, or any game that runs 50v, designed the game with heavier duty plastics because they were worried about this issue, or worried about wearing out components. Because they didn't design the games to still be playing today anyway. They figured a short shelf life because the idea was to keep the operators buying new games to keep the company making money. They looked maybe 5 years down the line. A lot of these games are 50 years old and still playing. It's a testament to the quality of materials, because of lot of these games have been really beaten over the years, but it's nothing they intentionally did.