How do you clean the inside of an EM? I normally start with a vacuum then reverse it and blow out what it misses. But I have one that is brownish and black inside from all the nicotine. I have seen videos of people actually using a detergent and washing everything has anyone done this and does it create more damage then good?
[opinion]
I am more minimalist-leaning when it comes to rejuvenating older games. I use a vac with a paint brush to go around inside the cabinets. Then a compressor on the rest to get to places the brush can't reach.
*CAUTION* Both methods will pull up or blow away identification stickers that are still present. Some will be clinging by a fingernail. Remove all the ones you can that are loose enough to remove without damaging them, note where they go and try to steer clear of the labels that are left. This includes the small ones on the side of relays.
I'm sorry, what was your question again?
Cody thanks that's basically what I have been doing (minus the paint brush).
Wickerman are you spraying Krud cleaner on coils, switches and wiring harnesses?
Quoted from PoBoyPinball:Wickerman are you spraying Krud cleaner on coils, switches and wiring harnesses?
No, but I bet it would work on a harness...great for stained paint
After the compressed air, I use alcohol and a tooth brush then compressed air to dry. Works pretty good.
The bottom board gets stripped of hardware, scraped with a razor knife, washed with simple green, or windex, then spray a couple coats of poly clear, and re assemble.
A dremel with a brass brush on the contacts, and more compressed air.
Step units and score motors are dis assembled, within reason, cleaned/lubed, and re assembled.
Coin doors get dis assembled, cleaned, then wire brushed to bring back some of the shine.
Man, all that, and thats just the bottom board, and the coin door.
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:After the compressed air, I use alcohol and a tooth brush then compressed air to dry. Works pretty good.
The bottom board gets stripped of hardware, scraped with a razor knife, washed with simple green, or windex, then spray a couple coats of poly clear, and re assemble.
A dremel with a brass brush on the contacts, and more compressed air.
Step units and score motors are dis assembled, within reason, cleaned/lubed, and re assembled.
Coin doors get dis assembled, cleaned, then wire brushed to bring back some of the shine.
Man, all that, and thats just the bottom board, and the coin door.
And you have already exceeded the value of the entire game in minimum wage labor! Ain't collecting pinballs GREAT?!?! 
I had a moment of frustration/disgust like I've never had before when I found a EM head full of cat hair (I'm slightly allergic and easily become extremely itchy and agitated by stuff like that, definitely much worse than mouse poop) and took it out back and just sprayed it with alcohol and even doused spots with it. Obviously risky but I cannot stand cat hair, if not for that I'm an absolute careful perfectionist that treats these things like pure gold. Ruined the paper labels (like above said anyways) but other than that I think it turned out alright. Haven't gotten back to it though. I wouldn't recommend it but I really couldn't do much else with it as is because I couldn't stand it. Had to take a shower right after. Bleh! At least I didn't grab the hose, girlfriend talked me out of that one.
Gonna try a compressor next. I wonder if a vacuum exhaust dealio would work too so I don't have to go borrow one? Obviously probably not enough force from it, though.
Again, not recommended.
Quoted from cody_chunn:minimum wage labor
For minimum wage you'd just cover it with latex house paint.
Quoted from cody_chunn:you have already exceeded the value of the entire game in minimum wage labor!
Yup, thats part of it.
personally, I can't stand to work with nasty!
Cleanin these things is always job 1! before I dive into anything else.
and, cleanin first, also gives me a great first hand look at everything, so I know what I am workin with.
In fact, after I clean a machine, I do the switches, then the step units, then the score motor.
Jones plugs are last.
Then when I plug it in for the first time, it usually works at least 95%
Makes the tweakin take less time.
Yes, Cody, there is NO room for profit after all that.
But, I am not in the business, I just love pinball!
And, If I do a refurb for someone, I do a flat rate plus parts. so no problem takin my time to go that extra ...???... whats a word for 10 miles? lol.
Quoted from Wickerman2:For minimum wage you'd just cover it with latex house paint.
Like maybe blue house paint? 
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:Cleanin these things is always job 1! before I dive into anything else.
Step one whenever I pick up a mystery machine: take the PF, bottom board, and insert outside, shake them in the grass, then take the cab and head outside, and give them a good upside-down shake, then blast everything with an air compressor and shop-vac
I always forget to get a before pic, I have made some progress. unbolted and lifted the banks of relays and wiped down the board underneath with Clorox wipes. One thing I leaned they were working good on the long printed label that tells you whats what but you can take it a little to far, got some fading in a spot (over cleaned) but looks better then black tar and nicotine.
Example. I had to hack-fix a chime grommet (I'm still looking...it may get fixed right) so since I was taking one out, I pulled them all and polished them up. No added value. Not even "curb appeal" because you can't see them until you raise the playfield. Why spend the time on it? They will sound the same, polished or not. Dunno. If I were serious, all the metal would be polished to a high sheen. But it's just not worth it.
I guess shopping (Rejuvenating) an EM is like an oil painting: you never really finish it, you just get to a point where you abandon it. 
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