PBR sells these rivets new so as long as you have the rivet tool and a drill you are in business.

Another option I used to repair on my Gottlieb 4 Square on the rivets which had the same problem was to use solder. You will have to get the Bakelite flat to do this then you will have to pool the solder on the rivets then use a file to make them flat. Worked fine for me.

Ken

I would use a High Tin solder, like 60% tin, this will give you a longer ware period. This type of solder will not be flux cored (Roofing type solder) available at most hardware stores in stick form. And use bakers Flux, also readily available. To use clean the rivet, warm up the rivet then coat with Bakers flux, rewarm the rivet and flow the solder. You may find the wire connected to the rivet will come free, as the high tin solder has got a bit high melting point than the wire solder and this is a good thing.

This sounds like a better solder as I just used the standard electrical solder with rosin core flux as that's what I had on hand and the adhesion was excellent. Not sure on the long haul as I sold the pin but I figure as long as you use the Teflon Gel for lubricant there should be no wear anyway.

Don't worry about the Bakelite as it can take the heat as I used my high heat solder gun with no discoloration of the material.

Ken

I use 'silver solder' for building up worn out rivets when needed. It's considered a hard solder, and can really take a beating. I think I got mine at Radio Shack, but it's not too hard to find.

Then a light layer of Super Lube, and all is well.

+1 for solder. Much easier than replacing the rivets. I've got a couple of EM's that were done 20+ years ago, and are still holding up well.

First thing I'd do is price out the rivets and necessary tools at PBR. If the cost doesn't make sense then I, too go with a high tin solder and a container of flux. I most definetly would *not* use solder designed for electronic circuits because the lead content is too high making it too soft. You can even dent the stuff with your fingernail.

Good part with rivet replacement is it was designed by the factory that way. Proven over millions of machines to be very reliable. Solder is comparatively very soft and it's inevitable the shoes will wear into it. On the other hand you can re-tin the rivets when problems develop because of it.

If you go with solder make sure the board is horizontal and level so the bead is even.

Looks like it came out great.

After playing mine for a month I had to go back and clean the disc again as it got dirty again but most likely because of the softer solder I used.

If it is dirty Just use the usual Scotch Brite pad with alcohol and Teflon lube again and you should be good to go for quite a while as it seemed to be part of an initial break in period.

Ken

I have one of those but forgot where I bought it and for how much as it was a couple years ago. Funny thing is I used it for setting a target rivet once but mainly use it to peen a Switch contact to a Switch leaf which I do a lot.

I just use the flat metal part, lay on concrete, rag between the face of the contact and the metal to not scratch the contact surface, couple bangs with a hammer, add solder to the back of the leaf where the nub is, and done.

Works Great and worth the money as it has a dual purpose, at least! Small too so it's easy to store.

Ken

Just checked the properties of Silver solder, it is still typically Very high Tin, the reminder is Silver and in some case contains copper. So it sounds like the better choice, with a melting point of 220C
From Wikipedia
Sn95 Ag5 Melting point 221/254[48] Widely used. Strong lead-free joints. Silver content minimizes solubility of silver coatings. Not recommended for gold. Produces strong and ductile joints on Copper and Stainless Steel. The resulting joints have high tolerance to vibration and stress, with tensile strengths to 30,000 psi on Stainless.[48]