EM Cleopatra Help


By BubbaK

3 months ago


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#1 3 months ago

I'm new to EM pinball machines.. I adopted a Cleopatra machine that has been sitting for a long time. It sat in my garage for about 10 months and before that in a basement for 30+ years.. I've already learned a few lessons, first and most important being dont touch things without knowing what they are, what they do or how they work..

When I first plugged the machine in and turned it on, playfield lights came on.. No backbox lighting at all. I triggered the coin mech and it took a credit. Things were clicking, cams were turning. I started pushing playfied switches and targets and they seemed to be responding. No scores recorded and the wheels didn't turn. I shut the game off and unplugged the game. I started looking closely at things, and noticed a few diode legs broken on some of the coils, so I resoldered these. Then, I started playing with the steppers.. I think this is where I really screwed up something. I started turning the cam on the credit stepper unit and I may have either over wound it, or somehow messed it up. It does seem to ratchet properly by pushing on the coils. It counts up to 4 then releases. After playing with that one, I want over to the main stepper control and started turning that a bit. I then went to the back box and started playing around in there, basically the same thing with the player unit.. On the bottom of the playfield, I was looking at the bonus stepper unit and on one set of horseshoes, the wire had broken off, so I soldered that back on. The other set of horseshoes doesn't have any wire connecting, but it does appear that there was something soldered there at one point.

After all that, I pulled out the wire harness connectors and wire brushed the pins.

After a few hours of cleaning, poking around and playing with things I shouldn't have touched, I plugged the machine back in. Playfield lights up again, still no backbox lighting. I tried to coin up and now I get nothing. I've checked all the fuses I can find and they all appear to be good. I have no idea on how to check voltage on this machine or what the voltage should be. I'm going to start off ordering a manual. I didn't dismantle any of the steppers. I don't want to just start pushing relays or turning any of these steppers when the power is on..

I have no idea what the sequence of events is on this machine.. I am at a complete loss on where to start.

#2 3 months ago

PBResource.com has the manual and schematics. If you don't have those yet, those will be a huge help to figuring out how things work.

The other thing that may help is Steve Fury's animated guides on EM games: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic/

#3 3 months ago

Also check out pinrepair.com

#4 3 months ago

Wow.. thanks for the quick replies.. I was watching Steve Fury's animations and explanations.. I finished the first page.... going to continue watching later.. I figured out a chunk of my issues already.. Apparently when I was cleaning the pins and sockets, I plugged main stepper into the wrong socket.. Going through my testing of switches, I started getting player 1 score reels to move. Think I'll spend some more time cleaning the connections while I'm waiting on paperwork..

#5 3 months ago

What coils on an EM Cleo had diodes on them?

#6 3 months ago

Maybe a capacitor to quench the arc? These are on the kickers, flippers and pop bumpers..

coil (resized).jpg

#7 3 months ago

That's a diode on that coil. Gottlieb EM games do NOT use diodes on the coils because the diode will blow fuses. Chop the diode off now and look for blown fuses.

#8 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

That's a diode on that coil. Gottlieb EM games do NOT use diodes on the coils because the diode will blow fuses. Chop the diode off now and look for blown fuses.

I was under the impression that if coils ran on DC like this game, the diodes were needed, but if they ran on AC, they were not.

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Gottlieb EM games do NOT use diodes on the coils because the diode will blow fuses. Chop the diode off now and look for blown fuses.

Ken, are you sure about that? I have an EM Cleopatra, and all my solenoids (like the slings, pops, and flippers) have diodes, and my game performs flawlessly. This game was made while Gottlieb was also making SS games, and Gottlieb rectified the voltage for those particular solenoids. All the other relay coils, however, are diode free.

#10 3 months ago

BubbaK, you might want to heed the advice of others by reading up on the EM repair section of pinrepair.com. Pinwiki is also a good reference as well. These EM games are all pretty standardized, and most problems have the same solutions. For example, if you're missing backbox illumination, that's almost certainly a fuse issue--either the backbox fuse is blown, or the fuse clip is tarnished/broken.

The Gottlieb start up sequence on this era of game is kinda tricky, namely due to the Ax/Bx relay, which has very tight tolerances. Take very good care if you start adjusting things. If you're having trouble coining up, and starting a game, check out this particular section:

https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0456.html

The start up sequence isn't from the same game, but it's close enough. If followed, you can usually track down your issues rather easily.

If you need any specific pictures of any mechanisms you might have accidentally thrown out of adjustment when you were playing around under the hood, let me know, and I can shoot some pictures of them over to you.

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Ken, are you sure about that? I have an EM Cleopatra, and all my solenoids (like the slings, pops, and flippers) have diodes, and my game performs flawlessly. This game was made while Gottlieb was also making SS games, and Gottlieb rectified the voltage for those particular solenoids. All the other relay coils, however, are diode free.

I have not encountered an EM Cleopatra, but from what you guys are saying, there must be a bridge rectifier in there somewhere running some of those coils. In that case a diode across a DC powered coil would be needed.

#12 3 months ago

If there is a bridge rectifier, it could be mounted under the playfield near the ball return kicker, and flipper assemblies.
It might be a square box with a slow blow fuse in line.

#13 3 months ago

Thanks for the help and sorry for the confusion... Yes, there is a bridge rectifier on the bottom of the playfield... I did read somewhere about some coils being DC.. I figured the diodes were supposed to be there. I'm going to order the manual for the machine and go from there.. I was able to get the steppers working again and some of the player 1 score reels started moving.. Cleaning up the connections definitely helped.. I must be missing a fuse somewhere as I haven't seen one yet marked for the backbox or found one that was blown.. Going to dig deeper.

#14 3 months ago

I do not own a Cleo, or any other "System-1 based" EM and have never seen the schematics. Are there any transistors at all used in the game?

In a solenoid, when the magnetic field collapses as the power is taken away, a back voltage spike is created that can surge back through the same wires and damage sensitive silicon-based components such as transistors and chips. The diode is used in an SS machine to block this potentially damaging backsurge, since diodes only permit current to travel in one direction. They generally weren't used in EM games because there was little that could be damaged, so the designers did not care about the backsurge.

Williams has been using DC power for their jet bumpers and slingshots since 1972 and they did not include diodes across the respective coils. The bridge rectifier is merely made up of diodes, so if the diodes was spec'd to a high enough voltage, again no one cared.

I do not know anything about an EM Cleo, thus I was asking about whether any silicon transistors or chips were used ???

#15 3 months ago

Clarification on my last post: I meant to say that Williams used DC power and bridge rectifiers for their EM games from 1972 to 1977. SS games are a different story.

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

I do not know anything about an EM Cleo, thus I was asking about whether any silicon transistors or chips were used ???

No, no other solid state components are used in an EM Cleopatra, aside from the diodes in the bridge and on the coils. The game operates 100% on electromechanical principles.

#17 3 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

No, no other solid state components are used in an EM Cleopatra, aside from the diodes in the bridge and on the coils. The game operates 100% on electromechanical principles.

Then I am not clear why diodes would be installed on certain solenoids of an EM.
Perhaps Gottlieb had ordered thousands of coils with diodes to protect their System 1 electronics, so they just used them for the EM versions also?

Maybe one of the older operators knows the answer???

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

If you need any specific pictures of any mechanisms you might have accidentally thrown out of adjustment when you were playing around under the hood, let me know, and I can shoot some pictures of them over to you.

Thanks for the offer. I will probably take you up on it as I get into this.. I'm fairly new to pins and extremely new to EM's.. I was into arcades for a bunch of years, but recently got rid of those. I was recently put in touch with a very nice Atari Middle Earth that I believe was a home use only machine.. After a good cleaning and a few minor fixes that one is up and running well. I figured I'd give this thing a shot.. I've had it for about 10 months and its a sentimental machine..

#19 3 months ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

Perhaps Gottlieb had ordered thousands of coils with diodes to protect their System 1 electronics, so they just used them for the EM versions also?

I'm pretty sure that this is the reason. At least, that would make the most sense.

Quoted from BubbaK:

I will probably take you up on it as I get into this.. I'm fairly new to pins and extremely new to EM's..

Please do! EM Cleopatras are a rare bird. Take care of it, and it will serve you well.

#20 3 months ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

Then I am not clear why diodes would be installed on certain solenoids of an EM.
Perhaps Gottlieb had ordered thousands of coils with diodes to protect their System 1 electronics, so they just used them for the EM versions also?
Maybe one of the older operators knows the answer???

Note that Bally and Gottlieb used 1n4004 diodes on their DC powered coils (where Williams did not.) The diodes prevent EMF coil backlash from damaging the bridge rectifier. Williams didn't do this, and that's why it's more common to see Williams EM games with a shorted bridge rectifier than Bally or Gottlieb EM games.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm

#21 3 months ago

Interesting opinion and I understand where it came from, but it doesn't make sense to me.
That means that Bally installed diodes to protect other diodes (bridge rectifier)?

1) The majority of bridge rectifiers that are sold for PB applications are rated to at least 400V, although you may occasionally see one only rated to 200V. See: http://www.pbresource.com/kbpc.html.

Even if you considered that Bally used 50V in their EM designs for a while, it would be overkill to install an additional diode to protect a 400V rated component against a surge of 100V or less. I guess it is possible that the early bridge rectifiers used in the 70s were rated at much lower voltages. However, if that was the case,wouldn't the protection diode burnout before the bridge rectifier?

2) I have only owned 4 Williams EMs with DC power to the jets/slings, but have never had one come to me with a shorted bridge rectifier.

I don't own a Bally EM with DC power, so all I can say is "interesting".

#22 3 months ago

I've been playing around with this machine a bit more. I'm starting from scratch and cleaning all the contact points first.. Back box is done with the exception of the score reels.. I'm working on the playfield now.. On the bonus unit, there are 2 sets of shoes. One set has a jumper between the pair, but the other set does not. It looks like there was something there at one time.. Not sure if it fell off or was removed deliberately. The other jumper was broken off one shoe, so I soldered that back on.

IMG_20170909_120926486 (resized).jpg

#23 3 months ago

So I'm continuing my contact cleaning project and I noticed the coils for the 1st ball relay and game over relay are over heated and blackened. I'm going to replace these coils. Is this a common issue with these relays or should I be looking deeper before powering it back up.

#24 3 months ago

Did you check the coil's resistance? Usually toasty looking coils are common for continuous duty relays.

If they're falling apart, by all means, replace them, but for the sake of simplicity, just desolder a lead off the questionable coil to remove it from the circuit, and use a multimeter to check the ohms. 2 ohms and below is a dead short and should be replaced.

#25 3 months ago

OK.. Thanks. I'll check the resistance, but as I was removing the relays to clean the contacts, I heard some plastic crunching when I was holding it. Didn't look like it they actually cracked but definitely toasty..

1 week later
#26 85 days ago

OK.. So I'm making some progress. Cleaned up the switches on the relays, changed the 2 coils and fired it up tonight. Machine coins up, BG shows player 1 ball 1. I hit a bunch of switches, score reels all move properly and actually pretty good. Problem I encountered is when I hit the ball drain, nothing happens. It doesn't advance to ball 2 until I trigger the trough switch ( the switch in the trough for loading the ball). I can repeat for 5 balls. after the 5th ball, the game doesn't trigger game over. If I manually release the game over relay, it stays out. I'm not sure of the terminology.. What is the ball drain switch called? Is it supposed to advance the ball? Am I correct on what I'm calling the trough switch?

#27 85 days ago

So, I think in the schematics, the "ball return switch" is the switch that is located right between the flippers where the ball sits on game over (the outhole). The "Trough switch" is the switch in the trough as it's delivered to the shooter lane. The former resets any sequences, and the latter advances the ball in play.

Check that both switches are operating properly. I recall I had a similar problem, and the plastic outhole switch activator was not putting enough pressure on the outhole switch/ball return switch. Other than that, the solenoid that kicks the ball into the trough and into the shooter lane is activated by normally open switch on the "o"relay (which is the ball return relay) (one side of the switch will be a brown wire with red tracer, the other side will be slate with a mottled red). The other switch inline to that coil is labeled as "bx" which I'm having a hard time locating in the game.

But first, start with the obvious. Check to make sure that the plastic bit is placing pressure on the outhole switch, and that switch is clean and adjusted properly. Then move on to the switches in the ball return relay.

#28 84 days ago

Thanks.. I will check my schematics for the ball return switch. I'm doing all of this testing without a ball right now and the playfield propped up. I manually closed the ball return switch contacts from under the playfield and nothing happened. The kicker solenoid doesn't fire either. I'll take a look at the ball return relay tonight. I did play with the BX relay and believe I have that adjusted and working properly.

One other thing I read somewhere is to change the tap on the transformer from the normal post to the high post to get a better voltage through the game. I'm hesitant on doing this since this game hasn't been powered up for probably 10-12 years.. Is it safe to change the tap on the transformer or should I leave it on normal?

#29 84 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

Is it safe to change the tap on the transformer or should I leave it on normal?

According to my schematics, there isn’t a high tap for this game. It’s a transformer that’s either tapped for 115volts or 220volts. This is because the game has DC rectified flippers, kickers, and pop bumpers. It doesn’t need a high tap to boost the power. The coils have plenty as it sits. Trust me.

#30 83 days ago

For the transformer, the coil voltage can be set to "high" output. I read somewhere that by changing the tap from normal to high it would give a stronger output to the coils. My concern is that by doing that it may overload the coils. I didn't measure the voltage out, but if the coils and rectifier are rated for a specific voltage I don't want to overload and burn up stuff.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like I need to look closer at the bonus unit or the AX relay. I know the trough switch works, so that means that 1C and 2B must be good?

transformer (resized).jpg

cleopatra wiring (resized).jpg

#31 83 days ago

OK.. I'm getting somewhere. I have the ball return switch working. The Make/Break switch needed some more pressure. I also adjusted the contact connection disk to make the shoes hit more in the center of the pins. Now I can cycle through all 5 balls and get a game over. My next issue is the kicker does not fire to move the ball into the shooting lane. I think I'm starting to get the hang of the diagram a bit..

#32 83 days ago

I got the kicker to work after the 1st ball drains and subsequent drains until game over. Sometimes it double fires, but I'll worry about that later. I still can't get the kicker to fire to load the 1st ball into the lane. I think I'm done for tonight.

#33 83 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

I still can't get the kicker to fire to load the 1st ball into the lane.

I thought that was the problem you were having previously. My mistake for misunderstanding. It should be simple to just trace the solenoid issue backwards through the schematics to find out why it isn’t kickng.

#34 82 days ago

The original problem was the ball return switch. Now thats working. The kicker wasn't working either. Now that works on balls 2-5. I still don't have the kicker to load ball 1.

#35 80 days ago

Kicker is now working on ball 1. Adjusted the contacts on the Ball return relay and that took care of it. Spent the day cleaning the playfield and getting new rubber on. Still have to take the flippers apart and replace the bats, change the rest of the playfield lights, and then get back into the backbox to clean and change lights, but I played the first game on this machine in about 15 years.

#36 80 days ago

Great progress!! Congratulations on succeeding on your repair endeavor.

#37 80 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Great progress!! Congratulations on succeeding on your repair endeavor.

Thanks... its definitely been a frustrating but ultimately a rewarding experience. Still a long ways off, but now that its working my motivation has kicked into a higher gear. I'm already thinking about a next one..

#38 78 days ago

Played a bunch of games tonight.. still have some bugs to work out, but playing this tonight brought back a lot of memories.. It also gave me a real test of the game to see what else needs attention. This is my first time playing pinball in many many years.. Not sure of a few things..

There is a connector in the backbox between the score reels with a few single pin jumpers.. There is a pin with no home.. I can't figure out what this connector is or where this pin should go.. It was just kinda tucked in the wires..

2 issues to tackle -

I have no bonus scoring. The bonus counts down, but the score reels don't move. Not sure where to start with that one. Any tips? Not sure of sequence.. Bonus unit appears to be adjusted properly.

The match doesn't work at the end of the game. The numbers don't light up and the knocker doesn't fire.

Would these be related?

Questions -

Does the 5000 point light turn on/off of or is it supposed to be lit once the drop targets are done?

When I coin up the game, the credit meter shows 3 credits per coin. If I put 2 coins in, 6 credits is displayed. If I hit the player button, 1 player is activated and all credits are gone. If I coin in and hit player button, 1 player registers. If I add another coin and hit player button, it adds a player. Is that normal? I see something in the manual about coin shoot 1 and 2, but I don't understand it..

connector (resized).jpg

#39 78 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

There is a connector in the backbox between the score reels with a few single pin jumpers.. There is a pin with no home.. I can't figure out what this connector is or where this pin should go.. It was just kinda tucked in the wires..

This is for "Replay Amounts", for setting the High Scores. There should be a whitish card attached nearby. From looking at IPDB photos, the guide for those plugs is attached between the lower score reels and the player unit.

#40 78 days ago

Thanks Darcy.. I did see the label, but didn't know which set of pins it went to..

#41 78 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

There is a connector in the backbox between the score reels with a few single pin jumpers.. There is a pin with no home.. I can't figure out what this connector is or where this pin should go.. It was just kinda tucked in the wires..

Like Darcy said, that connector is to adjust the scores at which a replay is awarded. They're a little tricky to figure out, and sorta useless in a home environment, since replays don't really matter. If you do want to figure it out, there's a small card stapled into the side of the backbox. It gives brief instructions. If it's missing, I'll snap a picture of mine for you. Otherwise, you can just ignore it for now.

Quoted from BubbaK:

I have no bonus scoring. The bonus counts down, but the score reels don't move. Not sure where to start with that one. Any tips? Not sure of sequence.. Bonus unit appears to be adjusted properly.

The bonus on this game counts up from bottom to top, with the arrow scanning to look for both colors being matched. If matched, the game scores the value. If not, it's not scored. Video of my game for clarity:

» YouTube video

» YouTube video

The bonus counts up with the bonus unit under the playfield. Check to make sure the rivets are aligned properly and clean. Also check the switch stack on the front for properly adjusted switches. There's a post on the cog that presses up against the stack when the stepper unit is activated all the way to it's maximum. Note that in the second video, the unit should reset if there's a ball in the game. The through runway switch resets it, but since the game is propped up, I couldn't activate it.

IMG_6819 (resized).jpg

Quoted from BubbaK:

The match doesn't work at the end of the game. The numbers don't light up and the knocker doesn't fire.
Would these be related?

They should not be related. Check the switches here for proper adjustment as they are related to the match:
IMG_6821 (resized).jpg

The match numbers are rotated using this little stepper unit Gottlieb used. The one for the match is in the backbox, and it's socketed with jones plugs, so you can take it right out and work on it on a table. The one pictured here is another unit under the playfield for reference so you know what to look for. These almost always are gunked up and not working properly. But they are VERY fragile and tricky to work with. Be careful if making adjustments.

IMG_6820 (resized).jpg

Here's a guide to working on them Scroll down to "Gottlieb AS Relay" (or just ctrl-f to search in page):
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps

Quoted from BubbaK:

Does the 5000 point light turn on/off of or is it supposed to be lit once the drop targets are done?

It turns on and off only after the bank of drop targets is completed. It's controlled by that AS relay I have pictured under the playfield (I think that specific one is labeled KS). I bet that one is gunked and isn't rotating either (causing the light to either be 100% on or off). That same relay also cycles the extra ball lights from left to right. Just be careful, as the one under the playfield has a small switch stack inside. It's a little trickier to adjust than the one in the backbox.

#42 77 days ago

Great info.. Thanks.. It helps to see things in action. I've cleaned and adjusted the 10th position switches on the bonus unit. I also aligned the contacts with the rivets. Looking at your video, I have exactly what is shown. The arrows move up the playfield and can hear the countdown, but the score reels don't move.

For the match, I've cleaned the contacts on the disc, but haven't really done much else. I'll have a look at that during the operation.

It looks like for these next few issues I need to observe in game action..

Thanks for the pictures and the info.. I'll post my findings tonight.

#43 77 days ago

Made some progress tonight..

Bonus unit is now recording.. It was a contact on the 10th position that wasn't closed. Nice quick fix..

Got the match feature working sort of.. found the jumper had the match feature turned off. I switched it to on and now it lights up at the end of the game. Seems like it rotates once per game. I did have the match display match the score and the knocker didn't fire and I didn't get a free game or ball. Still an issue here.. I haven't looked at the schematic yet..

I found the label for the jumper pic I posted. It looks like my extra ball is at 50K and 80K.. I didn't get an extra ball at either score. Again, haven't looked at the schematics yet. There is a jumper in the back box for credit or extra ball. Mine is set on extra ball.

#44 76 days ago

I'm having some trouble with the score reels.. the 10th reel is having a hard time turning from "9" - "0". Sometimes it gets hung up in the middle. It happens on all 4 players. Not all the time either. I pulled all the reels apart for player 1 and cleaned them. When I move them by hand using the plastic slide, it feels tight at that spot. I didn't lube anything other than the contact board.. Could this be a relay not firing long enough since it happens on all the reels intermittently?

#45 76 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

Seems like it rotates once per game.

It should rotate a number for each 50 point switch or 10 point switch (I don't have my schematics nearby, so that's a speculation). If you find that it's not random enough, it's probably just a dirty mini stepper.

Quoted from BubbaK:

When I move them by hand using the plastic slide, it feels tight at that spot. I didn't lube anything other than the contact board.. Could this be a relay not firing long enough since it happens on all the reels intermittently?

Gottlieb did a lot of things right, but their score reels later in their designs were pretty overcomplicated for no real apparent reason. They called it the Decagon Unit, and they're pretty awkward to work with, but as long as you're careful, you can take them apart and clean them up with rubbing alcohol. I personally don't grease anything--aside from the wiper plate like you have done--but if it's still sticking after a good cleaning, check to make sure that the 0/9 position switches aren't putting too much pressure on the mechanism bogging it down.

#46 75 days ago

The match does now seem to be more random.. I greased up the discs and the ratchet seems to be working fine now that its getting some exercise. For some reason the match feature was turned off and the game has been sitting for 15+ years so its probably been a lot longer that relay hasn't moved.

For the score reels, I did take them half way apart.. I didn't take the ratchet assembly off the coil and clean under that. I only removed the wheel from the assembly, cleaned that up and cleaned the switches and checked for adjustment. I'll pull it back out and check on the switches to see if there is too much pressure. Its strange it only hangs on the last number and it happens on the same reel for all 4 players and not every time. Wasn't sure if there was another switch that maybe isn't holding long enough to have the reel move enough. There was a lot of black "soot" or fine powder next to the end of the coils. I cleaned it up with some alcohol.. Maybe the coil shafts and sleeves are shot?

Another issue I noticed, the outholes are still energized at the end of the game. Every other switch on the playfield seems to be dead when game over lights up, but the outholes are still live.

I've been playing this game a bit the last few days.. It seems like the more its getting played, the more some of the little issues I have start working.

#47 75 days ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

outholes are still energized at the end of the game

There's only 1 outhole, its the drain at the bottom between the flippers. So I assume you mean the 2 kickout holes on the sides of the playfield. This keep the game from starting with the ball in an kickout hole.

#48 75 days ago
Quoted from HowardR:

There's only 1 outhole, its the drain at the bottom between the flippers. So I assume you mean the 2 kickout holes on the sides of the playfield. This keep the game from starting with the ball in an kickout hole.

Got it.. Kickout holes is what I meant.. Thanks for clarifying and for the explanation..

#49 75 days ago

Discovered another issue tonight. In the bonus scoring at the end of the ball - when it gets to the 2 blue row, it counts it out, but it doesn't add the score. All the other rows add the score. Its driving me crazy. Looking at the schematic, it goes through a contact on the KS relay. When the playfield is up, the KS relay never fires or rotates. I've activated all the switches on the playfield, making sure the trough switch is first, then the top rollover switches. Why would only 1 row not adjust the score? When trying to find something in the schematic, what would be the first place to start? At the score reel?

For coin up process, I'm a bit confused as well. What does the 2nd chute setting do? Which is the 2nd chute or would that be 2nd coin? Right now, when I put in a quarter, it registers as 3 credits. A 2nd quarter displays 6 credits. When you hit the add player button, it adds 1 player and resets the credit meter to 0, no matter how many credits were displayed. When I pass my free play bonus score, it doesn't add credits either.

2 weeks later
#50 55 days ago

I figured out my bonus scoring issue finally.. There was a switch on the green drop target that had too big of a gap causing it to touch another switch on top of it when the bank was reset. Apparently that must have been messing with scoring somehow. Fixing that fixed a few issues. I"ve now got the game working about 95%. I'm pretty excited since the game wasn't doing anything when I started and I've never touched an EM game before. I've got 2 more minor issues to work out and It should be 100%.. Unfortunately, I think I've caught the EM bug and am now sorta looking for another one.

The only major issue with this game left is the playfield is shot. Its kinda funny to watch the ball swerve down the middle of the playfield between the plastic lights. This game has a lot of sentimental value to me and a good friend of mine. I'm sure this idea is taboo here, but I was toying with the idea of stripping the playfield down and just clear coating it to try to make it flat. The paint it worn in more spots than its not, the wood has started to almost delaminate. I like the aging look of the playfield. I can handle stripping the top of the playfield, but I'm not really sure how to attempt the bottom. All the lighting is stapled down and I don't see how to be able to staple the lighting back down when its completed.

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Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Tim's Pinball Mods
€ 27.00
Cabinet - Other
YOYOKOPTER MODS
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Professor Pinball
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 229.99
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Decals
Siegecraft Electronics
From: $ 22.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 15.75
Cabinet Parts
Tilted Pinball
From: $ 15.00
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 299.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 199.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 89.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 46.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 24.95
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 71.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
From: $ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Meph's Mods
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