(Topic ID: 213523)

Elvis trough coil help needed


By Arcade

2 years ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Gunnut40
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#1 2 years ago

I have an Elvis that had the wrong coil for the trough kickout. (Photo below.)
It had a 23-700 coil installed that was way to strong.
The manual calls for a 26-1200 coil with diode.
I ordered what I thought was the correct coil from Marco with a diode. I got the AO-26-1200
Installed the new coil and blew the fuse instantly.
I noticed the diode on the coil was not the same direction on the new coil so I swapped the wiring, putting the thicker yellow wire to the banded side just like the old coil.
Same problem. No ball kickout and the fuse will eventually blow.
Did I order the wrong type of coil? is the AO portion not correct as I noticed there were other prefixes available.
Any help appreciated.
Here are the photo of the new coil installed and one of the old coil.

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#2 2 years ago

Quick question. So no fuse blowing till the coil was swapped correct? Now instant or it blows after a few firing cycles.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

Quick question. So no fuse blowing till the coil was swapped correct? Now instant or it blows after a few firing cycles.

Correct. It worked great with the wrong coil installed.
It takes awhile for the fuse to blow now. not instant.

#4 2 years ago

Note banded side toward power lug. This is my stock machine so numbers are correct.

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#5 2 years ago

Terry has them on his site in stock $9.95

#6 2 years ago

If you do board work. You might want to order a transistor for your board also if you don't have one.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Did I order the wrong type of coil? is the AO portion not correct as I noticed there were other prefixes available.

The coil you purchased is a generic type coil that has the correct power output as the stock one. Any time you buy any generic replacement part you need to pay close attention to the diode orientation. Now that it was hooked up in reverse it was a dead short until the fuse burnt. Fuses do not save electronic parts from burning out they just stop the wiring from catching fire. With a dead short you will now need to replace the coil diode and the driver and predriver on the cpu board. The coil will be fine tho.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The coil you purchased is a generic type coil that has the correct power output as the stock one. Any time you buy any generic replacement part you need to pay close attention to the diode orientation. Now that it was hooked up in reverse it was a dead short until the fuse burnt. Fuses do not save electronic parts from burning out they just stop the wiring from catching fire. With a dead short you will now need to replace the coil diode and the driver and predriver on the cpu board. The coil will be fine tho.

I can replace the transistor and pre driver. No problem
I guess my question so this does not happen again is, can I leave the coil wired the way it is now, replace the diode, and be just fine or do I need to order an exact stern replacement coil. I did not see one on Marco's site.

Looks like it is the Q1 transistor. I have plenty of IRL540N transistors from Pinball Life on hand for that.
Not 100% on the pre driver as I cant read the fine print in the manual at the moment.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

can I leave the coil wired the way it is now, replace the diode, and be just fine

Yep.

#10 2 years ago

Thanks Grumpy.
Awesome info.
Do you know what pre driver part I need. I may have it on hand but can't read my manual at the moment.
Really appreciate all the great info.
Can't believe I caused all this trouble for want of double checking a diode. I just thought they were all installed the same direction.
Guess I have just been lucky all these years because I have changed out tons of coils and never had this craziness.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Do you know what pre driver part I need. I may have it on hand but can't read my manual at the moment.

You will need to replace Q-1 on the I/O power driver board, STP20N10L Mosfet. And the coil diode, 1n4007.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You will need to replace Q-1 on the I/O power driver board, STP20N10L Mosfet. And the coil diode, 1n4007.

Finally had some time to work on this today.
Measured the Q1 transistor against all the others and got the exact same readings.
So I took a chance that it was still good and just replaced the diode on the coil.
Bingo. Back in business.
I will never just wire a coil up the same direction as the old one again if it has a diode across.

#13 2 years ago

Good job!

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