Quoted from HurryUpPinball:Thanks Jandrea95. There is also a Stern issued fix that involves repositioning the VUK bracket but mine was already repositioned when I got it (I could see the old screw holes) so this is really an add on to that. This game has taken so much tweaking but when it is dialed in, it is worth it.[quoted image]
dood could you post a picture of the old holes and the new ones please? The guide is a bit vague on the location.
Quoted from PinWoofer:Greetings toucanf16 - the feature matrix for Elvira HOH shows the LE has "Upgraded High Definition..." speakers and every Spike-2 LE I've encountered has 5 1/4's, but best to confirm. We offer a kit Spike-2 that deletes the backbox speakers for the LE/SE 5 1/4 upgrade since the upgraded backbox speakers they have been supplying are great quality and sound excellent with our amplifier - thanks!
Spike 2 LE games that don't have 5.25s are :
1: Batman 66 LE. (SLE has 5.25)
2: Aerosmith LE
3: Star Wars LE
4: GOTG LE
5: Both Beatles LE's
B66SLE Jenson 5.25
IMDN, DP-> JBL's 5.25s
Munsters, BK:SOR, JP, EHOH, NST, TMNT Kenwood KFC-S1366 5.25s
the Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Spike 2 LE games that don't have 5.25s are :
1: Batman 66 LE. (SLE has 5.25)
2: Aerosmith LE
3: Star Wars LE
4: GOTG LE
5: Both Beatles LE's
B66SLE Jenson 5.25
IMDN, DP-> JBL's 5.25s
Munsters, BK:SOR, JP, EHOH, NST, TMNT Kenwood KFC-S1366 5.25s
the Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
Perfect! Thanks. I have many of those pins. I don’t have access to them at the moment and am thinking of getting PinWoofer kits.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Spike 2 LE games that don't have 5.25s are :
1: Batman 66 LE. (SLE has 5.25)
2: Aerosmith LE
3: Star Wars LE
4: GOTG LE
5: Both Beatles LE's
B66SLE Jenson 5.25
IMDN, DP-> JBL's 5.25s
Munsters, BK:SOR, JP, EHOH, NST, TMNT Kenwood KFC-S1366 5.25s
the Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
Well done NeilMcRae ! Thanks!
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
Another nice thing about the kenwoods is they look great with the RGB speaker light kits because their white cone material reflects the full range of colors much more than a black or other solid colored coned speaker would.
If you like the round style RGB speaker lights and want to upgrade from 4" to 5 1/4" at the same time it's real easy because Doug sells the 5 1/4" metal speaker grills for only $25 a pair when you buy the light kit with them. $25 was a lot cheaper than other places selling the plates by themselves.
If you do the speaker light kit be aware that they do cause reflections on the glass so I would also recommend using the "bent plastic" mod which eliminates it.
rps20200719_165728 (resized).jpgQuoted from NeilMcRae:dood could you post a picture of the old holes and the new ones please? The guide is a bit vague on the location.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:the Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
Quoted from docquest:Another nice thing about the kenwoods is they look great with the RGB speaker light kits because their white cone material reflects the full range of colors much more than a black or other solid colored coned speaker would.
If you like the round style RGB speaker lights and want to upgrade from 4" to 5 1/4" at the same time it's real easy because Doug sells the 5 1/4" metal speaker grills for only $25 a pair when you buy the light kit with them. $25 was a lot cheaper than other places selling the plates by themselves.
If you do the speaker light kit be aware that they do cause reflections on the glass so I would also recommend using the "bent plastic" mod which eliminates it.
[quoted image]
Great Price with free shipping.
ebay.com link: AUTHENTIC Kenwood Dual Cone KFC C1356S 260 Wts 5 25 2 Way Car Audio Speakers
Quoted from docquest:The boney flipper bats really tie the game together. [quoted image]
I can never find these at the usual MOD shops. Where can one purchase a pair of boneys?
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:I can never find these at the usual MOD shops. Where can one purchase a pair of boneys?
ebay.com link: Bally Scared Stiff Pinball Boney Flipper Set 20 10343 NOS
Great info about the speakers... thanks.
Is there a preferred/recommended site to purchase 5.25 speakers online?
Quoted from DeathHimself:Great Price with free shipping.
ebay.com link » Authentic Kenwood Dual Cone Kfc C1356s 260 Wts 5 25 2 Way Car Audio Speakers
Those are not the same speakers that Stern has been using in their LE games. They will work, but the middle part of the speakers look different. Ten bucks cheaper though and they do have the same light silver cones that look so nice when lit up.
Quoted from John1210:Great info about the speakers... thanks.
Is there a preferred/recommended site to purchase 5.25 speakers online?
The best place, in my opinion, for the Kenwood KFC-1366s speakers jumps between Amazon and eBay. Currently I would go with Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KFC-1366S-5-25-Inch-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B079SFC3P9/ref=sr_1_1
Quoted from DugFreez:Those are not the same speakers that Stern has been using in their LE games. They will work, but the middle part of the speakers look different. Ten bucks cheaper though and they do have the same light silver cones that look so nice when lit up.
The best place, in my opinion, for the Kenwood KFC-1366s speakers jumps between Amazon and eBay. Currently I would go with Amazon:
amazon.com link »
I'm an idiot, pasted the wrong link lol. In the words of Maxwell Smart " Missed it by that much..."
ebay.com link: Kenwood KFC 1366S 250W 5 25 2 Way Round Coaxial Speakers Car Audio Pair
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Spike 2 LE games that don't have 5.25s are :
1: Batman 66 LE. (SLE has 5.25)
2: Aerosmith LE
3: Star Wars LE
4: GOTG LE
5: Both Beatles LE's
B66SLE Jenson 5.25
IMDN, DP-> JBL's 5.25s
Munsters, BK:SOR, JP, EHOH, NST, TMNT Kenwood KFC-S1366 5.25s
the Kenwood's sound the best IMO.
All I know is that the stock speakers in EHOH LE sound really good. I noticed it immediately when I first played the game.
Rob
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:I can never find these at the usual MOD shops. Where can one purchase a pair of boneys?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-10343
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-20-10343
https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=20-10343U
For our UK friends:
https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/scared-stiff/boney-flippers-pair-20-10343/
If you want pre-painted ones:
http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=270
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/boney-flipper-bats
Its very easy to paint wash them yourself. Just google paint wash and there are tons if tutorial videos on how to do it.
Can someone please share a picture of the house ramp motor bracket, specifically how the spring is connected to the cam shaft. The manual is inconclusive about position and I want to make sure I have it in the right spot.
Rob
For those of you who have added the bony beast to HoH, how have you attached the head to the ramps? I have done a black wash on my ribs but am waiting to get my VUK/Gonk mod before I add those parts.
Quoted from Rob_G:Can someone please share a picture of the house ramp motor bracket, specifically how the spring is connected to the cam shaft. The manual is inconclusive about position and I want to make sure I have it in the right spot.
Rob
Does this help? If you need a different angle or area just let me know.
1595307056888674234813747704208 (resized).jpgQuoted from jtgribble:Does this help? If you need a different angle or area just let me know.
[quoted image]
Thank you for the picture. According to the manual, the plastic bushing on yours is facing the wrong way. Did you ever have yours apart? Of course it is possible that the manual is wrong too, but I'm pretty sure the bushing position in the manual is correct.
Never had it apart. That's how it came from Stern. I guess that doesn't mean it's right though. You should have seen how my VUK came from the factory
I just got an Elvira. Im trying to update to the newest version code. I format my USB thumb drive. I extract the zip file to my computer. Open the folder and copy the files to the thumb drive root. I insert into the USB thats in the center of the backbox board. I put the machine on and nothing happens. It just goes to the play screen. Any advice on what i'm doing wrong here?
Quoted from xbmanx:I just got an Elvira. Im trying to update to the newest version code. I format my USB thumb drive. I extract the zip file to my computer. Open the folder and copy the files to the thumb drive root. I insert into the USB thats in the center of the backbox board. I put the machine on and nothing happens. It just goes to the play screen. Any advice on what i'm doing wrong here?
Try a different USB, sometimes games are finicky to which USB you use for some reason.
Quoted from manadams:Try a different USB, sometimes games are finicky to which USB you use for some reason.
Its a brand new USB 64gb ...if i get another one how do i know what the right one is.
Quoted from xbmanx:Its a brand new USB 64gb ...if i get another one how do i know what the right one is.
I think the sd card should be no larger than 16gb.
Quoted from xbmanx:Its a brand new USB 64gb ...if i get another one how do i know what the right one is.
try another formatted to fat32 not NTFS and make sure files are in the root not in a dir.
Quoted from Lermods:I think the sd card should be no larger than 16gb.
USB stick he was talking about not the SD card, however I can confirm 32gb SD card do work in there as well just make sure they are class 10.
Yes, get a smaller usb stick, like 16gb. I tried using a larger one and it just seems to confuse the machine.
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:Yes, get a smaller usb stick, like 16gb. I tried using a larger one and it just seems to confuse the machine.
That's what I did and it worked. Thanks everyone.
Problem #2 - The spin light in the left outlane is always on. When it's "lit" it's slightly brighter but it's on always. Is this how it's supposed to be? If not, how do I fix that? Thanks again.
Quoted from DeathHimself:try another formatted to fat32 not NTFS and make sure files are in the root not in a dir.
USB stick he was talking about not the SD card, however I can confirm 32gb SD card do work in there as well just make sure they are class 10.
sorry, meant USB, not SD. no larger than 16gb I think has been recommended by Stern, but it's possible something has changed along the way as your larger stick seems to work. I have been using two 8gb cruzerblades from Sandisk for years, never had an issue.
Quoted from Lermods:sorry, meant USB, not SD. no larger than 16gb I think has been noted by Stern, but it's possible something has changed along the way.
Yeah I found out when I used the raw image program and accidentally inserted a 32gb instead of the 16gb and it worked lol. So I just left it in there and its still in there now with 0.97 until the new raw drops and then I'll use the intended 16gb now
Quoted from xbmanx:Problem #2 - The spin light in the left outlane is always on. When it's "lit" it's slightly brighter but it's on always. Is this how it's supposed to be? If not, how do I fix that? Thanks again.
I just played my machine and the left spin light is not on for sure, only when the spin is ready then it will light. Are you running the latest code?
Quoted from DeathHimself:I just played my machine and the left spin light is not on for sure, only when the spin is ready then it will light. Are you running the latest code?
yes
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:Yes, get a smaller usb stick, like 16gb. I tried using a larger one and it just seems to confuse the machine.
I've been using a 64gb usb 3.0 thumbdrive to update my pins for a few years, never once had any failure with Black Knight or Elvira LE. It is a fast thumbdrive though, around 200MB/sec read speed, I think maybe some people have issues when they use older or cheaper thumbdrives as some of those have incredibly low read speeds.
IMG_20200721_141421 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200721_141426 (resized).jpgQuoted from Reality_Studio:I've been using a 64gb usb 3.0 thumbdrive to update my pins for a few years, never once had any failure with Black Knight or Elvira LE. It is a fast thumbdrive though, around 200MB/sec read speed, I think maybe some people have issues when they use older or cheaper thumbdrives as some of those have incredibly low read speeds.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The issue is with the actual chip that holds the file system. Many cheap USB drives use ones that work fine on a PC but not on embedded stuff like pinball boards. Those types of things only work with a limited set of drivers, and the cheapest drives (cheap to the reseller, not what you paid) use some crappy drivers
On the latest Super Awesome Pinball Show podcast they have a great interview with George Gomez. Some interesting info regarding Stern's topper development process.
Based on what he said I think they will continue to have exclusive game play features and interactivity only available to those who buy the topper.
I dont want to get into a DLC debate but if the Elvira topper did unlock a mode or game feature I would be fine with that. I'd prefer that vs just being purely cosmetic.
Quoted from Krupps4:I’m fine with the DLC with the Topper so long as it’s DLC that is quality, worth having and reflective of the price being charged by Stern. I’m not sure the goat mode with the JP topper falls into that category in any respect.
In the interview George said they want the games design team to be the ones to come up with the topper concept. Elviras design team did such a great job on the game itself I'm hoping whatever they have planned for the topper is equally awesome. I hope Dennis is still in involved with it.
Quoted from docquest:In the interview George said they want the games design team to be the ones to come up with the topper concept. Elviras design team did such a great job on the game itself I'm hoping whatever they have planned for the topper is equally awesome. I hope Dennis is still in involved with it.
Kind of think Dennis is not involved given Stern asked him to take down info on his plans for a topper.
I need one more opinion about the rear house diverter before I put the house back on the playfield. Is your house diverter this loose and clanky?
Rob
I haven't ever tried playing mine like a guitar before.
Is the ball causing it to make that noise as well?
Quoted from Rob_G:I need one more opinion about the rear house diverter before I put the house back on the playfield. Is your house diverter this loose and clanky?
Rob
Mine is/was, I made a point to tighten every screw I could find, but not sure it actually did anything. Cant say definitively, but I would venture to bet its normal.
Quoted from xbmanx:Problem #2 - The spin light in the left outlane is always on. When it's "lit" it's slightly brighter but it's on always. Is this how it's supposed to be? If not, how do I fix that? Thanks again.
I had this same issue with one of my mode inserts on stranger things. It ended up being a pcb issue. Not the led board itself but the next board upstream from it. Stern sent me a replacement that fixed the issue.
Quoted from Chalkey:I haven't ever tried playing mine like a guitar before.
Is the ball causing it to make that noise as well?
Yes, it makes a loud noticeable clank. But, I'm assuming it's normal.
Rob
If you want to add an inexpensive bass upgrade to your machine and thunderstorms, you can do this.
Fist buy a new 8" woofer, I happen to like the Plye 8" PLP8WD sub-woofer has lots of bass.
Link here:
ebay.com link: Pyle PLPW8D 8 800W Car Audio Subwoofer Sub Power Woofer DVC 4 Ohm Black
Now remove your existing paper cone woofer, keep the lock nuts from the woofer.
Next gently with a small hammer, tap out the stock speaker studs from inside the cab tapping them down and out.
Now go to your local hardware store etc.. and get (4) 6-32" x 2" screws with the flattest low profile head you can find.
Now get your new Pyle woofer and set it over the stock holes they should be about 95% on the mark.
Next go under the cab and push up through the holes and speaker grill the new 2" posts.
Now being the posts are 2" long you have some wiggle room for the 5% they might be off, slide to new woofer over each stud top the then evenly lowering it to the cabinet bottom. There might be a little resistance but it should drop down almost all the way. If it does not drop a 100% no worries as you tighten the nuts it will pull the woofer all the way down. While doing so be sure not to over tighten the nuts and start pulling the screw studs up into the cab so keep checking the bottom watching the flat-heads. Your going to use the original 4 locking nuts here on the new studs.
Now if you have a soldering gun, un-solder the wire plug from the stock woofer if not clip the wires closest to the solder point on the old woofer this way we can reuse the plug on the new woofer.
On the plug the two wires are yellow and yellow/black stripe. The yellow is your positive + and the yellow black stripe is your negative - . In addition get a piece of two wire about 14" long speaker wire etc.. and your going to make a jumper from one set of woofer connections to the other as this is a dual voice sub-woofer so you'll want both inputs hooked up. Just be aware of your connections as the pos + / neg - poles are reversed on the other side of the woofer.
That's it you should be all done now without making any additional holes in your machine.
BTW in the volume setting of the machine I still left everything defaulted at 8ohms
Nice bass upgrade for under $26.00 in total.
See the attached photos.
IMG_9519 (resized).JPGIMG_9513 (resized).JPGIMG_9514 (resized).JPGIMG_9512 (resized).JPGIMG_9515 (resized).JPGIMG_9516 (resized).JPGIMG_9517 (resized).JPGIMG_9518 (resized).JPGI guess you must use anti rattle tape,this is a good alternative to a psw 10 for a lot less,how do you compare the bass quality from them both
Quoted from rockrand:I guess you must use anti rattle tape,this is a good alternative to a psw 10 for a lot less,how do you compare the bass quality from them both
I would say it's down the middle, you're not going to get the bass power of an external powered sub like the Polk PSW-10 but it does add a much nicer, deeper bass range then the stock woofer. Some folks just don't like to have anything under their machines, me I don't mind at all. Which is why when you look at picture 6, you can see I have the stock plug wires, the jumper wire for the dual voice and another set which is running to my external PSW-10. Yeah I guess you pretty can say I like to feel the whole dam house shake when I play lol. However it is a huge improvement over stock.
Believe it or not, I don't have any anti rattle tape installed. My glass is pretty tight when it slides in, well for the moment anyway but if at any point I start to get the rattle I'll be sure to add some.
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