Weird. I found this on Sterns amazon page and on Game Room Guys.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rmEUA30NFZHE5eyrGZzXDzWcoEI3c2Nz/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P3_kXkATnoyyDnMUpZBnOn7-vm9d54mO/view?usp=drivesdk

But in going to places like Pinball Life For the Rev C. I don’t see this note at all.

Edit: What triggers the shaker in the current code?

The games are the same. Don't know why it wouldn't work. Just order from the Stern Shop if they're in stocks. They're cheaper anyway.

There is a lot of shaker code. It's awesome!

Pinball life is even cheaper 79 instead of 99.

Just got premium Tuesday. After 40 plays game is saying house lockup device function. When turn on game house lock coil fires about 15 times than throws the code. When shoot the house ball not recognized. Any suggestions?

But that's not a Stern shaker.

does that matter?

I don't blame you, I wouldn't do this either. I fixed this problem on an 'on location' machine about 6 month ago with tie wraps and it worked flawlessly ever since. I did clip the tie wraps for neatness when I was done, I took the photos attached photos to document how far off the bracket holes are.

20200125_152114 (resized).jpgpasted_image (resized).png
I noticed when removing the VUK that the holes did not line up with the support support bracket; out of curiosity I tested the VUK with the screws out and it worked perfectly! This told me imminently that Stern mounted either the VUK or support bracket in the wrong position and is a great way to test to see if this fix is going to work before doing anything else.

At that time I decided to just leave the 2 screws out and used tie wraps to secure it to the bracket to keep the VUK from vibrating when the coil fires.

IMO a possible permanent solution would be to simply mill the VUK bracket holes into sloted holes so they line up with the threaded holes in the support bracket; then just add a couple flat washers to the bracket when putting it back together and call it done.

EDITED: To correct quotes and attached photos.

I haven’t had the pleasure of taking the house apart, but the behavior you describe sounds like a misaligned/loose opto.

I also noticed that when the screws were out on one side of the VUK it worked better because it was able to true itself. This isn't a long-term term fix. The actual alignment needs to be fixed and the screws reinserted. The firing of the VUK is violent. With out it being secured the remaining screws will loosen or worse. The metal will eventually fatigue and the mounting bracket will brake. One of the factory screws is too long and hits the subway when everything is where it should be. This needs to be fixed with a spacer or replaced with a smaller screw.

To me it does.

Only if stern buys their shakers from the same supplier the makes their coil stops.

Are there still nib elvira premiums available? If so, how much do they run?

ah sorry i should have been clearer, does it make a difference in the effects , does the stern one do more with modes vs a 3rd party is what I should have asked.

LOL ok thats funny!

my temp fix for the failed stern coil stop only lasted for a couple weeks..but it was long enough for the replacement parts to arrive

I've tried them both. I think the Stern one gets the edge for producing more of a shaking effect.

figured I'd post in here before calling Stern, having an issue with the garage where the Garage lock 3 opto isn't registering. is it a bad board? it will take a ball search to figure out its in there during a game which is frustrating because the mode will usually time out before it happens. thanks guys.

This isn't a permanent fix but has lasted for several hundred plays with zero degradation, and in a home environment would likely last years. I can assure you the VUK is firmly secured to its support bracket and there is absolutely no movement when the solenoid fires as ALL force from the VUK solenoid hitting the coil stop is applied equally across the VUK mounting bracket and the support bracket to the playfield.

All I'm doing is providing an alternative for folks that for whatever reason aren't comfortable with the fix presented by Stern. In all reality this is a design flaw that should be addressed by Stern with a proper fix sent to everyone that has this defect.

I have to admit I'm very puzzled by this statement and cant see any piece of metal that will break from fatigue here, please point out to me what part of the mounting bracket you think is going to break.

Your solution is a good one for proof of concept but those cable ties will fail over time. I totally agree Stern really did drop the ball on this particular mechanism but I think it is on us to make the best of it (hope for the best but plan for the worst). If you think about it there are far more engineers that own pins than work at Stern. Pinside has fixed many a pinball problem that eventually becomes the manufacture's official "fix". I applaud you for finding and documenting the adjustment needed for this VUK thing to work. Most of us have real jobs that can translate in to pinball in some way. Because of that we can all contribute to these technical conversations which is a very good thing. That being said, lets talk metal fatigue. The brake in the metal is usually just before or just after the first bend on the side that is still anchored down. The vibration weakens the bracket and then one day it will just crack all the way across. A coil with a weighted plugger hitting a steal ball produces a lot of stress. You wouldn't think so but it does. Do yourself a favor and elongate your bracket eyelets like your already talked about in your permanent fix scenario. That way you can get the screws back in. I have a well cared for Shadow that the factory only installed 3 of four screws on several mount brackets that support coils. Every one of them cracked and it wasn't fun finding replacements. There isn't going to be a ton of Elvira's made so I'm thinking parts will be hard to come by a few years down the road (planning for the worse).

I cannot understand why people would not just drill holes to where they are meant to go. The existing holes are wrong so fix it. Who is going to look at the underside? If you’re that worried fill the old holes. To start bending mechs and so on is just going to cause problems further down the line.

Do you have one? This thing is a completely different beast. I think people would be more willing to drill new holes if they knew it was going to fix the problem. There is no guaranty it will and there in no template because of the build variation. Mine was so far off pitch wise bending was the only solution. Actually it works damn good once it is dialed in. Getting it there is an adventure. Anyone owning one not needing tweaked is really lucky.

Mine comes August. When it does I will check the mech. If it needs to be moved I will move it. Just curious as to why people would worry. I guess if the moving does not always fix then additional steps need to be taken.

And I should butt out until I get my own and see for myself.

Did you check the opto plug under the playfield?

Does anyone have an idea what was causing the rear corner of the left side house plastic to break? It's been reported that Stern later revised the plastic with a piece cutout, but tech support would not send me the new one when I asked about it (while I made a claim for a broken leaper bracket). I'm seeing an issue where the balls are sometimes bouncing into the skill shot lane rather than the left orbit after being diverted from a shot to the house. This makes me wonder if balls are hitting the corner of the house when being diverted to the left?

Does your diverter make a 'clank' sound when a ball hits it? Mine has always been a bit loose, but it's not the diverter blade - those screws are tight.

I also posted earlier about node 8 having an issue. Just for the record, it's an overcurrent issue so I'm trying to track that down. It's very intermittent right now. I did find one light socket which might have had some contact with one of the trunk targets. No idea if that's the culprit unless it never happens again. Only time will tell.

Rob

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1122-pinball-modscom/02525-promium-elvira-house-of-horrors-2-piece-set-of-side-rails

Just purchased my NIB EHOH Premium 5 days ago. It has very few plays , but I just noticed chipping in the shooter lane where the ball is loaded. It appears that the lacquer was weak and the loading of the ball has chipped away an area. It has not affected game play, but rather the aesthetic aspect of the pin. Anybody knows of a home fix for this? I already notified Stern.

IMG_2448 (resized).jpeg

This happens to everyone.

Turn down the eject strength, lay down Mylar and install Cliffys. Problem solved.

You’ll pull your hair out for weeks with Stern, and eventually they may ship you some sandpaper and liquid clear. Not worth the effort.

Thank you for your response. I went to the Cliffy web site, but could not find a protector for my problem. Could you point me in the right direction?

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

Third group of pictures down.

That’s it. Cliffys are mandatory in all of my games, but his website isn’t the easiest to navigate.

image (resized).jpg

Here is an easy fix. Go to Hobby Lobby and get a $1 sheet of self adhesive felt

Cut it to your size and you are set

1 sheet will take care of about 40 pins

Thanks to everyone

Has anyone noticed that the ball bashes the tip of the ramp if you happen to hit it before it’s gone all the way down I think this is going to become a problem. I put a little dent in it and eventually it’s not going to be straight and flush with the playfield

I already have a small dent there as well. I’m hoping someone smarter than me will come up with a solution.

Ours is dented as well but we have a playfield protector fitted. Talk to Cliffy, I am sure he can come up with a solution. Bicycyle girl ramp on TWDLE had the same sort of issue. The cliffy fix is awesome.

I’m not sure I understand the playfield protector fix. it it’s the tip of the metal on the ramp. Can you send a pic of your fix?

The felt works great.

However, if that doesn’t float your boat they make little shooter lane plastic protectors made for specific games

I think mezel mods or one of them sell those.

I’ve bought 2 and they work great.

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector?variant=19380931985505

I think the difference, though, between EHOH and TWDLE is that the Elvira ramp moves slowly *during* multiball while the TWD ramp is pretty instantaneous during the Bicyle Girl mode (not a multiball).

I love the numerous physical ball locks on Elvira, but I always get nervous about that center ramp during a multiball.

You are exactly right. It’s because the ramp moves slowly if it were faster it wouldn’t be an issue. And I agree during multi balls is when it happens because you can’t control where the balls going. If it comes out of the seller I just purposely don’t shoot it towards the house until the ramps down. There has to be a fix for this

Hopefully this can be changed in code?

I don’t think I explain myself clearly there’s a piece of metal at the end of the ramp on Elvira and when the ramp goes down or up slowly there’s a chance that the ball can hit it and bend it. It’s not a matter of a plastic protector. there has to be something that you can put on the end of the ramp so you don’t bend the crap out of the thin piece of metal at the end of it If you should happen to hit it before it’s fully down

Iceman is responding to AvidPinPlayer about the shooter lane issue. We’re talking about the center ramp.

Anyway, back to the game, I got to Scream Test last night and picked up the Wilhelm scream at the end. Nice job Lyman!

I understand what you are talking about and have the same concern, I wonder if one could use the same PETG material as the playfield protectors and cut the shape of the small, metal lead in ramp, only about a 1/4 longer so it has a bit of an edge that sticks out underneath. You could double sided tape it to the underside of the metal lead in ramp we are trying to protect. I think its thin enough where it would not cause the ball to hop (too bad) and if a ball hits it during up or down path, it would likely just flex but if it did get damaged, easy / cheap to replace.

I'll be installing my playfield protector this weekend and do have some extra material on hand, I may try to mock something up to test it's durability.

Please! Keep me posted. I’m glad I’m not the only one concerned about this

I certainly will.

Just add bud and buzz. NGG had the problem solved. Having a post or something raise with the ramp solves it. Unfortunately this isn’t going to happen. I hope Lyman can fix through code so it raises quickly. This has me nervous, I see this as a real problem. It’s not a matter of Will it break, but When.

This has me worried enough to switch my deposit to TMNT.

Actually. Going back to NGG. If the EHOH ramp actually had a stronger piece of metal like the slam ramp on NGG then that would work. I don’t know if this thickness of metal on the end of the ramp could be retrofitted.

image (resized).jpg

The house ramp flap gets dented in multiball mainly because it is just to thin to take that kind of a strike. The easiest fix for Stern in my opinion would be to attach two flaps at the end of the ramp instead of just one (the flap is riveted on). If they were doubled up it should be able to take the hit and I don't think it would cause the ball to hop or add that much weight to the assembly. I'm doubtful the speed of the motor can be changed so I don't think that is an option. Current owners would need the recalled replacement ramp while future production would have the fix implemented. Just my 2 cents.

Really? That seems a bit extreme ...