(Topic ID: 252126)

Elvira's House of Horrors - The Owner's Club


By RobertWinter

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,570 posts
  • 451 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 minutes ago by Hayfarmer
  • Topic is favorited by 216 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“Do you currently own other Elvira machines?”

  • This is my frst Elvira machine 192 votes
    58%
  • Also own Elvira and the Party Monsters 23 votes
    7%
  • Also own Scared Stiff 78 votes
    23%
  • I own all three now! 40 votes
    12%

(333 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

9 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 6570 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 132.
#3351 7 months ago

He’s on the backglass chillin’ with Elvira.

#3352 7 months ago

Question for anyone with an EHOH as their only Elvira game - has this game made you consider getting an EATPM and/or a Scared Still, despite the generational differences in game play?

Similar question if you already have one of the other Elvira titles - does EHOH make you want to complete the trilogy?

I owned EATPM and SS and wasn’t 100% sure I was going to like EHOH, but now can’t imagine breaking up the set and really enjoy the references in EHOH to the earlier games and how well the three complement each other.

7D52F6E3-D379-4927-98BC-790841705C5F (resized).jpeg
#3353 7 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Does EHoH make you want to complete the trilogy?

Scared Stiff has been my favorite game for over twenty years. (We'll see if EHoH can take its place as my favorite.)
My buddy had a beautiful EatPM he wanted to trade me. Good game but I liked SS better and didn't need both.
But EHoH and SS are the perfect pair for me: one fun '90s B/W game and one modern Stern with deep rules.

#3354 7 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

But EHoH and SS are the perfect pair for me: one fun '90s B/W game and one modern Stern with deep rules.

Totally agree. I went in thinking EHOH would possibly mean moving SS (for space/theme etc).

Nope, now I’m finding others to move.

12
#3355 7 months ago

I find all three to be fantastic representations of their eras. EATPM is a really fun, challenging Sys11, while SS is a great 90s pin. HoH is an excellent recent game with superior video, audio and deep code. If you could only have 3 pins, these 3 wouldn’t be a bad choice to get a flavor for the past 30 years of pinball. I feel!

0509EB16-5EBA-41A2-9314-3BD60D846B97 (resized).jpeg
#3356 7 months ago

I have EATPM and want a Scared Stiff to complete the set. All three are excellent games. Pinkitten took the words out of my mouth.

#3357 7 months ago

I realize this is a total newbie question but I've never moved the outlane posts up before. I removed the nuts below the playfield, thinking I can just as easily remove the posts from the topside and move into the middle/lower spots, but they will NOT MOVE an inch! I don't get why pin manufacturer's don't make this process a little easier (plug/play) but I digress.

So what's the easiest way to remove the posts from the topside? I can't seem to get a wrench in there, too tight.

Thanks in advance.

#3358 7 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I realize this is a total newbie question but I've never moved the outlane posts up before. I removed the nuts below the playfield, thinking I can just as easily remove the posts from the topside and move into the middle/lower spots, but they will NOT MOVE an inch! I don't get why pin manufacturer's don't make this process a little easier (plug/play) but I digress.
So what's the easiest way to remove the posts from the topside? I can't seem to get a wrench in there, too tight.
Thanks in advance.

Most posts are held in place by a nut underneath the playfield. It takes a bit of effort, but if you raise the playfield and can hold the post from spinning (I use alligator pliers), you can remove the nut from under the playfield and change the post position. I wish it were simpler too.

#3359 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Most posts are held in place by a nut underneath the playfield. It takes a bit of effort, but if you raise the playfield and can hold the post from spinning (I use alligator pliers), you can remove the nut from under the playfield and change the post position. I wish it were simpler too.

No, that's what I'm saying. I removed the nut from the bottom of the playfield but the post will NOT budge. Like not even a bit (it won't come out). I tried to push from bottom, but it doesn't wanna move. Again, NO IDEA why they make it so hard when they know that people will want to adjust.

#3360 7 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

No, that's what I'm saying. I removed the nut from the bottom of the playfield but the post will NOT budge. Like not even a bit (it won't come out). I tried to push from bottom, but it doesn't wanna move. Again, NO IDEA why they make it so hard when they know that people will want to adjust.

Once the nut is removed from the bottom, screw it out from the top. Remove the rubber from the post, a long socket will go over and fit to the hex, screw it out. Try not to use pliers with rags to screw it, these things normally scratch the post.

If you want to punch it out, lightly screw the nut back on and punch the nut so you do not destroy the threads on the post.

#3361 7 months ago

Upgraded my speakers today

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#3362 7 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

No, that's what I'm saying. I removed the nut from the bottom of the playfield but the post will NOT budge. Like not even a bit (it won't come out). I tried to push from bottom, but it doesn't wanna move. Again, NO IDEA why they make it so hard when they know that people will want to adjust.

Use a punch and tap it out with a mallet or small hammer.

#3363 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Use a punch and tap it out with a mallet or small hammer.

DONT do this unless it is a last resort. This is how you take big chunks out of your clear.

Even though the hole isn't technically "threaded" using an adjustable wrench around the nut from the top is the way to go. Usually it will back out as the reason it wont move freely is the threads have dug into the wood.

#3364 7 months ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Upgraded my speakers today
[quoted image]

Very nice!

#3365 7 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

No, that's what I'm saying. I removed the nut from the bottom of the playfield but the post will NOT budge. Like not even a bit (it won't come out). I tried to push from bottom, but it doesn't wanna move. Again, NO IDEA why they make it so hard when they know that people will want to adjust.

Oh, gotcha. Yep, the above suggestions are options I’ve used. Unscrew the post with the nut off, even tho it’s not threaded into the playfield usually, or, I pull up on it with pliers, and a towel over the post so I don’t mangle it, and while I pull up I apply pressure in a circular manner, which gradually releases the post. That’s difficult to do if the post is obstructed by something. Those posts can be in there tight!

#3366 7 months ago

Looking at those three backglasses together... she hasn't aged a day in 30 years.

#3367 7 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

DONT do this unless it is a last resort. This is how you take big chunks out of your clear.
Even though the hole isn't technically "threaded" using an adjustable wrench around the nut from the top is the way to go. Usually it will back out as the reason it wont move freely is the threads have dug into the wood.

Never had an issue with this method and I can only offer what’s worked for me. I could see how punching them out could be an issue if the post is embedded in the clear, but if that’s the case, any attempt to get the post out could cause damage.

Haven't moved them this way with Elvira but have on plenty of other games, including Wonka and ST. go slow and tap it out. I'd be more afraid of twisting it or pulling it up with pliers from the top.

#3368 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Oh, gotcha. Yep, the above suggestions are options I’ve used. Unscrew the post with the nut off, even tho it’s not threaded into the playfield usually, or, I pull up on it with pliers, and a towel over the post so I don’t mangle it, and while I pull up I apply pressure in a circular manner, which gradually releases the post. That’s difficult to do if the post is obstructed by something. Those posts can be in there tight!

Get a good quality small open ended wrench set that is thin (at least 1/4" and 5/16"). The cheaper ones are always too thick for most delicate pinball adjustments. The post is 1/4" I believe. Just lefty loosey it all the way out from the top. Reverse the process in the new location. Not the fastest way but it is the safest.

#3369 7 months ago

The bottom of the post has a nut fitting on it. Need a long throat socket. Screw it right on out. Never ever pound them out.

#3370 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Get a good quality small open ended wrench set that is thin (at least 1/4" and 5/16"). The cheaper ones are always too thick for most delicate pinball adjustments. The post is 1/4" I believe. Just lefty loosey it all the way out from the top. Reverse the process in the new location. Not the fastest way but it is the safest.

This - good quality ignition wrenches are the ticket. They are thin, strong and machined well to fit the nut precisely.

#3371 7 months ago
Quoted from NoQuarters:

This - good quality ignition wrenches are the ticket. They are thin, strong and machined well to fit the nut precisely.

I have a set of those also but my favorite is a 30 year old Armstrong set. I use these daily
15909656086939099360625935702745 (resized).jpg

#3372 7 months ago

Long magnetic hollow shift nut driver. I have a set of Klein I use for everything.

#3373 7 months ago
Quoted from Antron77:

Long magnetic hollow shift nut driver. I have a set of Klein I use for everything.

Those are good also. Can't go wrong with Klein or Xcelite for nut drivers. I personally use the Xcelite version (I like the funny smell - if you own them you know what I'm talking about). Nut drivers don't help on Elvira unless you take the ramps out first.

#3374 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Those are good also. Can't go wrong with Kline or Xcelite for nut drivers. I personally use the Xcelite version (I like the funny smell - if you own them you know what I'm talking about). Nut drivers don't help on Elvira unless you take the ramps out first.

#3375 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Xcelite version (I like the funny smell - if you own them you know what I'm talking about).

I know that smell all too well!

#3376 7 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Question for anyone with an EHOH as their only Elvira game - has this game made you consider getting an EATPM and/or a Scared Still, despite the generational differences in game play?
Similar question if you already have one of the other Elvira titles - does EHOH make you want to complete the trilogy?
I owned EATPM and SS and wasn’t 100% sure I was going to like EHOH, but now can’t imagine breaking up the set and really enjoy the references in EHOH to the earlier games and how well the three complement each other.[quoted image]

I own a SS and EATPM for a very long time. So when I heard there was coming a new Elvira pin, I didn't hesitate to buy one.

#3377 7 months ago

New to this thread. On course to purchase a new EHoH Premium; aside from cosmetics, shaker, and speakers, is there any difference in game play between the Premium model and the other two models?

#3378 7 months ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

New to this thread. On course to purchase a new EHoH Premium; aside from cosmetics, shaker, and speakers, is there any difference in game play between the Premium model and the other two models?

No gameplay difference.

#3379 7 months ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

New to this thread. On course to purchase a new EHoH Premium; aside from cosmetics, shaker, and speakers, is there any difference in game play between the Premium model and the other two models?

No. The playfields are identical.

#3380 7 months ago

shooter rod with the powder coat looks wild

20200601_174639 (resized).jpg
#3381 7 months ago

Archived after 2 days
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Sold (amount undisclosed)
Contributed to Pinside
Mod - For Sale
New “Shooter Rod: Blue Eye - 1 1/2" $35.00 shipped (USA only) Brand new, never used - Made by The ModFATHER https://modfatherpinball.com/products/scared-stiff-shooter-rod?_pos=8&...”
2020-06-02
Vienna, VA
35 (Firm)

#3382 7 months ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

shooter rod with the powder coat looks wild
[quoted image]

*** Resume Running Rant ***

It'd look even better if it was not upside-down from the player's perspective.
And the purple ruffle would then give you something to grip more like a standard plunger.

I swear if Stern had released that EyeBall Shooter Rod, there's at least a 50% chance that it would have been looking at the lockdown bar with the rod coming out of its pupil.

*** Suspend Running Rant Until the Next One ***

#3383 7 months ago

So you want it with the rod coming out of the top of the head, with the ruffle facing the player? I''m not sure that would look right... anyone want to photoshop the pic above to reverse the clown and see what it'd look like?

#3384 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

DO NOT pay for the Stern brand coil stops, they're crap. You can probably get a few free as warranty replacement, but they will do the same thing as Stern has been pushing out crap coil stops for the last few years.
Save yourself the future headaches and just get the $4.95 pinball life ones that actually LAST.
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html

Exactly. I ALWAYS change them when I get a new pin. I made a tutorial about this as well.

EE9196DF-6260-4BF5-B205-019628BFA1E7 (resized).jpeg Added 6 months ago:

#3385 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

So you want it with the rod coming out of the top of the head, with the ruffle facing the player? I''m not sure that would look right... anyone want to photoshop the pic above to reverse the clown and see what it'd look like?

As one possibility, yes. My personal preference is that whenever there is an orientation to consider, the custom knob should appear to be “right side up” from the player’s perspective. Particularly when a custom knob is in the form of head, I think the designers all too often automatically see the rod as it’s “neck” and so once installed they look upside down from the player’s viewpoint.

“Right side up” doesn’t always mean “out of its top” however. The EyeBall rod works because as you approach it, it’s looking at you. There are other knobs out there which have the rod coming out of the back of head - again as if it is looking at you as you walk up to the game, including one for Elvira (and of Elvira) I think I saw somewhere.

#3386 7 months ago

Why does Stern have to send a complete shooter assembly? I already have the housing, spring, washers, e-clip and rubber tip. How about knocking $20 off the price and just send the shooter rod?

I had to swap everything anyway since I had my housing powdercoated to match.

#3387 7 months ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

Why does Stern have to send a complete shooter assembly? I already have the housing, spring, washers, e-clip and rubber tip. How about knocking $20 off the price and just send the shooter rod?
I had to swap everything anyway since I had my housing powdercoated to match.

That was a bit of a surprise. But instead of knocking off $20, these should have come with the LE in the first place

#3388 7 months ago

Hi All

Can I ask - what was the MMRSP of the Elvira Signature editions!?

#3389 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hi All
Can I ask - what was the MMRSP of the Elvira Signature editions!?

Technically there wasn’t one but they generally sold for about $15k (USD)

#3391 7 months ago
Quoted from jfh:

Technically there wasn’t one but they generally sold for about $15k (USD)

Sweet Jesus. 1 of those or 2 premiums. Easy decision

#3392 7 months ago

Any chance boogie man boogie from SS has been added to this (in some form)?

#3393 7 months ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Any chance boogie man boogie from SS has been added to this (in some form)?

They are on the plastics and in some of the animations. Overall they did a really good job integrating the old games into the current one. Of course it helps when you having the same design team for all 3 games.

#3394 7 months ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

Interfaced with the left and right RGB lights that illuminate the house. Carried it out to speakers, leg protectors, up and backbox lights. Maybe a bit much, but the pinball league players here are used to my excessive mods. Really simple circuit (hex inverter, resistors and FETs). PM me if you are interested in DIY. I will probably do a PCB at some point because this will work on any RGB in a Stern machine.

this looks amazing. I'd love a couple small strip rbg lights mounted to the apron facing bottom middle of playfield that used the same colors and timing as the lights for the house..i think it would look spectacular for the haunt modes if the glow of the colored lights illuminated the bottom half of the table too.

#3395 7 months ago

I am trying to update Elvira HOH but when I put the USB in and turn on pin it just boots up normal.

The USB is new 16G and just has Elvira code on. Not sure what is wrong, it never asks me to update it just boots normal. This is my first Spike so not sure if there is a DIP switch like SAM.

this is a picture of my USB drive files

6899426C-26EA-40AD-82BC-2A543C04EE5C (resized).jpeg

#3396 7 months ago
Quoted from rai:

I am trying to update Elvira HOH but when I put the USB in and turn on pin it just boots up normal.
The USB is new 16G and just has Elvira code on. Not sure what is wrong, it never asks me to update it just boots normal. This is my first Spike so not sure if there is a DIP switch like SAM.
this is a picture of my USB drive files
[quoted image]

First, I think you need to use an 8gb stick. Second, those aren’t the correct files. should look like this

1EEAFAA0-A7C2-46F4-A82C-15035B6AEEA5 (resized).jpeg

#3397 7 months ago

You sure about the 8GB restriction? I believe I used a 32GB drive to update my Batman66 and it worked fine.

#3398 7 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

You sure about the 8GB restriction? I believe I used a 32GB drive to update my Batman66 and it worked fine.

no, but typically this has been the case for stern and JJP games. if it works with 32gb go with it.

#3399 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

no, but typically this has been the case for stern and JJP games. if it works with 32gb go with it.

I know with spooky the was an issue using 2.0 rated drives vs the faster 3.0.

It will be nice when they get the internet enabled stuff worked out so the games will just update themselves over your home wifi on their own.

#3400 7 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

I know with spooky the was an issue using 2.0 rated drives vs the faster 3.0.
It will be nice when they get the internet enabled stuff worked out so the games will just update themselves over your home wifi on their own.

Until your nic craps out... Hopefully the wifi unit will be a normal modular wifi like most laptops have and not something unique to their systems.

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