My Godzilla was swampy out of the box. Checked all coil stops, that's not the problem.

Anyone know how many times Elvira has been run?

The mechs are exactly the same for all these machines. If a flipper finger is not snappy i would also look for the coil stop first. Exchange the sleeves while you are at it.

Strangely i also have very nice and snappy flippers on EHOH without issues and all 3 coil stops on GZ broke after 500 games.

I think GZ flippers are set stronger due to the more distant shots and this will also put more stress to the coil stops and produce more wear

How much for this topper Stern?

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What a great picture!

Priceless

Awesome photo!!!

Thanks!

His name is Fitz. He sits on this topper a lot. Always have to be careful with the scream. His brother from another mother (but same lineage) was walking underneath. That roused him from his rest.
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I have heard mention that this can be caused by the flipper gap being set too tight from the factory. The flipper bats should have a small amount of up-down play, but if the crank is too high on the flipper shaft there is more friction and the symptoms are similar to flipper fade.

I have a 1-off pin-gulp up for grabs if anyone is interested.

Mod - For Sale

Coffin PinGulp Beverage Caddy, Elvira

Unused - New - “THis is a one off, and will not be making any more of these! Add some serious style and convienience to your Elvira machine with this hand painted Coffin Beverage Holder. A lot of...”

64 days ago

Walnut Creek, CA

Soulrider911

Expired!

Got to the end of Gappa Angry tonight! Awesome mode and finish!

This game is full of amazing pinball moments!

Considering colored plastic protectors. Reading the thread it's seems to be a mixed bag. Anyone actually happy with their choice and want to share what they went with?

Clear set from Pinball Life is the way imo. The other colored options hurt the overall look of the playfield, I had purple for awhile and couldn’t stand it.

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Yeah, mine has one already installed and still experiencing the rattle issue. This pin has been the most work out of the box by far, nothing else comes close.

I love the game, but when it's not 100% working as it should, or not dialed in properly, it drives me absolutely insane. Thanks OCD.

For real though, if you figure out how to stop the rattling in shooter lane, please hit me up. I'll do the same. I feel like I've done everything this thread has mentioned.

I may try a warranty route, but I doubt there's much they'll do; we'll see, I guess.

If you haven’t already try a slow mo video and pinpoint what’s going on. There can be many various reasons for it, make sure there’s no interference between autoplunger and manual shooter

I hear you brother. I'm an OCD guy as well The plunge is of course mainly disturbed by the wrongly left sided cut in the playfield. Will try all things possible and get back here if I manage to fix it.

Blood drips in red way to go imo

Hi all...soon to be new owner here. I'm looking for recommendations on the best kind of shaker motor to get and where to get it. Thanks!

No differences that I know of. You’re in my neck of the woods. You can pick them up directly at Next Level. Jordan usually has them in stock.

Finally got caught up on preorders for Elvira House of Horrors apron video screen mod. Now have a few in available on my pinside shop.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1120-docquest-pinball-mods/04964-elvira-house-of-horrors-apron-video-display-mod

I have one on my EHoH, it’s an awesome mod!

I was just playing, and balls got stuck under the ramp twice.

On the second balm search, the balls came down, but so did the ball gate.

Wondering if anyone had any guidance on how to fix this?

Thanks in advance.

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Buyer backed out shoot me a PM if you are interested in a very cool and very limited Elvira Gulp

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PM'ed ya.

When my topper activates, the flap quickly opens and closes.

In test, it stays open occassionlly.

Any idea how to fix this?

On my EHOH topper I noticed that there was a bit of play in the metal plunger as it goes into the coil and there was no coil sleeve installed so I cut a new coil sleeve to size and installed it where none existed before and it has 100 percent fixed the issue with the topper not fully opening every time.

Without a coil sleeve installed the inside of the coil is slick hard plastic, however there is a little bit of slop or play in the plunger when it moves though the coil. With a nice new coil sleeve installed it removes the slop and I have performed several tests via diagnostics and it works great. With the gargoyle securely installed I have played several hundred games and the topper has fully opened up during multi-balls as it should and then via diagnostic testing I opened/closed the topper 50 times in rapid succession and it works perfectly with everything fully assembled on the topper.

I don't know if Stern missed installing a coil sleeve on my topper or if coil sleeves were not installed on any of the toppers, but installing a coil sleeve 100 percent fixed my inconsistent topper opening issue. One other tidbit, if the game is in attract mode, after 3 minutes if you press either flipper button the topper will open and Elvira will scream.

Topper adjustment settings may be reviewed via the following keypost topic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elvira-s-house-of-horrors-the-owner-s-club/page/243#post-7276317

Gord

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Duplicate post

Thanks for this. I will add a sleeve to mine. Mine wouldn’t open well at all. I opened the side to check the mechanisms and started to slowly pull up the flap and something went snap and then it has worked flawlessly. Now I’m not suggesting everyone start yanking theirs up and break it but I wonder if there was a burr or something on mine which caused initial problems? I thank you for your post, I believe this is worth doing.

How do I access the coil?

Do I have to take the topper off the game?

Also, does the coil sleeve have to be shaved down?

You do not need to remove the topper. You only need to remove the right side gargoil to access the coil. This involves removing four small screws (2 in front and 2 in back).

If you can find a coil sleeve that fits perfectly then you do not need to cut it, however I didn't have any coil sleeves the perfect length so I needed to cut 1/2 of an inch or so off of a coil sleeve from my parts inventory. I used a small Dremel tool with a plastic cutting wheel, but you can literally use any tool that makes clean cuts to achieve the same result. After I used the Dremel tool to cut the coil sleeve I used a fine hand file to smooth out the edges of the cut end of the coil sleeve.

Also please disconnect any Molex power connectors prior to adding a coil sleeve. It is really a simple thing to do and it makes the topper open perfectly every single time.

Gord

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You're awesome! Thanks for taking the time to explain that.

Will try it out tonight.

13 plays and this happens….

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The fact that they never bothered to change the left rubber sleeve so the ball flows to the flipper and is a known fix says it all. Yeah I felt as though this last release was half assed as well. I have had the glass off of this thing to tweek more than any game I have ever owned.

You need GarGlue

Happened to me on the first game. Super glue it back onto the metal post - seems to have held for me after that.

Just checked my topper, and there was a sleeve. I decided to change it out with a new one.

With the gargoyle off, it fired perfectly, and the flap went up and stayed up.

However, once I screwed the gargoyle back on, it went back to the same habit of opening and closing quickly.

So I loosened the gargoyle a bit, and noticed it started working again.

So it seems that the gargoyle cover might be a little bit too tight when screwed in all the way, maybe pressing down on the coil plunger.

Working great now, with not screwed in overly tight. Maybe something to try it yours is not functioning right.

Added bonus, I played a game to test it out, and SOLD THE HOUSE!!!

One of my gargoils flew out on the first games too, but with the stick intact. Just the screw that wasn't tightened enough. Found other screws in the cabinet. Am also having intermittent issues with the house and may have to remove it to see if it has lost screws somewhere.

Indeed. Just did the Hurry up-fix and boy is it a lot better now when the ball doesn't hit the slingshot.

So I first tried adding washers under the left metal fork as suggested in the thread, but it only made things worse.

I then tried adding the missing right alignement bracket, but as suspected it only moved the playfield further to the left making the plunge even worse. It's very likely Stern only used a left bracket on the recent run trying to compensate for the shooter lane being cut too far to the left.

Finally I tried adding the shooter lane protector (https://pu-parts.com/elviras-house-of-horrors-shooter-lane-protector) someone recommended in the thread. And YES it does seem to work. The plunge is much less rattly now. Very happy with the result. I previously (before all of the above) made the reverse gate mod which also made plunging smoother.

I use the purple ones from Pinball Life for the sling shots and return lanes. Freddy’s green set for the rest of the game. I think this is the perfect combo.

Happened even to those of us who bought back in 2019. Just glue it back on.

If only the game was on… still pretty cool pic. Maybe should start a new thread cats on pins.

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Just use a good glue. How hard are they jumping? Maybe me don’t hit the glass they have foam underneath on the rods that limit the movement. Heard earlier builds they would hit the glass

House Diverter ball stuck fix from stern tech support. Not sure if this is covered somewhere already. Took about 3 weeks but stern support started emailing and they are really responsive once you get their attention. I tried calling and sat on hold with not answer for 45 minutes. So anyway here’s the suggested fix in images below that doesn’t require house removal.

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for the last time, they are SUPPOSED to hit the glass, guys!!

Why are you yelling?!?! Are you sure? Mine don’t. I am going to look at the manual and maybe even email stern unless someone has something official. There’s a bunch of foam material wrapped around the rods. Frankly I am fine with them not hitting the glass, just going to eventually wear down the Gargoyles.

The foam should be removed. The gargoyles were designed to hit the glass just like the frogs in Scared Stiff and the ball in White Water.

Cued up to where the designer, Dennis Nordman, says they hit the glass:

The house gargoyles don't hit the glass. The ones that do are the crypt ones

Did you get the game NIB? Theres supposed to be instructions that tell you to remove the foam before play

If everything is set up correctly, all of them should hit the glass.

My crypt ones do but house ones dont - how are you supposed to set them up so the do? polish the posts they sit on so it's smoother?

I mean, the foam isn't there, there is nothing to set up correctly. The house Goyles don't reach the glass ever.