Thanks for the heads up!!

I guess that means the excess that was planned to be sold at TFP isn't happening after all.
Wow. Not even one weeks worth of production on this game. Ouch.

Hope I get mine too. It's looking a little iffy.

I’m getting worried about all the potential mis-alignment issues etc.

I’m not a pinball repair man. I can do simple things had to fix my switch gaps on Fathom the other day.

is there anything too involved that a bad tech like me would not be able to fix?

My crane on bm66 is still not aligned well because I don’t know how to do it.

Me too. My distro I went through last week said there was a parts delay. Fingers crossed!

Risk exists with any NIB pin you buy. I mean if you want one thats dialed in, perhaps look into used, but there is always risk with any pin.

Question when is the turret on the house supposed to spin? When I start a game the turret spins after that I don’t really pay attention because I’m not looking up at it a lot, in what modes does it spin?

Betelgeuse - Thank you!

Ok everyone got my last week and my gargoyle on the right side of the house constantly stays up. I played with it and it feels tight. Does anyone know of a easy adjustment too make it move smoothly

I was notified by my distributor that mine is shipping out today. Should expect it this week! Just hoping for a safe delivery and a healthy pin.

In house party MB when the super jackpot is available it spins. Eyeball facing you when you hit the house entrance is supposed to add an extra ball to the MB. I'm not sure if used anywhere else though, I've never found complete rules for the game, only published ones I found are outdated.

Did anyone ever publish the full rules up to 1.5?

This game is incredible! Lyman = GOAT!

don't worry about it. most of these have no issues and they aren't hard to troubleshoot when they do.

This is how it is now after I lifted the rear back (which was low)

20230320_112259 (resized).jpg

did not fix it yet, it’s on my to do, I won’t be able to get to it till tomorrow.

Loosen the screw under the gargoyles butt. It should be snug, but not overly tight. This will allow some play in the bracket and allow the gargoyle stick to more easily jump up and down. This fixed mine.

Question on the back box hinges, if I want to remove them to powder coat them do I have to remove the back box to take the hinges off or if I remove them with the back box up will the bolts that hold the back box up on the back of the game hold the back box in place so that I can just remove both hinges and leave the back box in the upright position on the game?

I was thinking about trying the color and finish below on my premium still need to talk to my powder guy about it.
365BFF23-A584-4172-9EDE-359B9485B3F0 (resized).jpeg

That's my pic, it's a beautiful finish. The bolts on the backside of the machine will hold the head in place on their own. You can remove the hinges and still play the game. If you've never removed modern Stern hinges before, pay attention to the spacers and such that hold the bottom of the hinge to the cabinet. And in the backbox, on the right side, you have to remove the cover to the service outlet. It's easy, 2 hex nuts.

I’ve never done a powder coat finish before. Is it just the exposed sides that get the powder coat, or are all sides powder coated? Did it affect fit anywhere?

I love the color you picked. It looks incredible!

So there are two lock nuts you need to take off that cover the service outlet on the right side, then you can just use the 7/16 wrench to get to the nuts in the back box. The other one is a larger nut inside above the playfield, I think it was 5/8 to remove that lower hinge bolt. I left the back box up and bolted. You do need to remove the glass though.

Whole piece will get coated. All sides. As long as your guy knows what he's doing, they plug and/or cover all threaded areas. You shouldn't have any major fitment issues. Every now and then a hole may be a little snug. It just depends on how heavy they lay the powder on. But I've never encountered anything that can't be overcome. Usually it all bolts right back on easy cheezy.

My Node 8 board came today. Swapped out the boards and still can’t find node 8? Now I’m getting super frustrated.

Did you set the jumper settings?

Yeah I just did, all down. Talked to my distributer and he told me he heard of this just happening to another EHoH. What had happened is somewhere in the house during the build a wire was pinched and shorted the game. He hopes that is the case. So we are going to look for that. If it is not that, they may need to send me a new machine. ugh.

I had to go pretty far out on mine as well and did something similar with another post rubber in the gap.

PXL_20230320_223816757 (resized).jpg

I have the PS Neo... already bought them... but not sure if I should install them. I love the lighting aspect of them (I have them on 5 other games) but dont like how they block the side blade art... so I did not install on some games witg great art like Godzilla, Mando, etc.. on this one I am torn since it really needs lighting but the art is very nice..

Are you aware that you can remove a couple plastics, loosen the 1/4" screw that holds the guide, and adjust it? The guide is slotted intentionally so it can be moved. I believe only the earliest builds weren't slotted.

It won’t adjust out that far, I’m guessing he removed the screw from the slotted bracket to get it to move out that far.

Just be careful adjusting that orbit too much. You’ll regret it trying to get werewolf if you keep bouncing out of the left loop. I find it hard enough to hit under pressure.

Perhaps so. I just slid mine out a bit and it's fine. I do have an early build though.

Good Evening Everyone-

Alignment issues:

I received my EHoH last Monday-
The shooter rod was 1/4” out of alignment and the left orbit fed to the sling…Both of these were easy corrections.

Remove the two red hex head screws from your inner shooter housing plate and loosen the three phillips pan head screws. This will allow the assembly to float around to be secured where it is properly aligned (don’t forget up and down).

The left orbit can be adjusted by removing 3 or 4 screws to set the section of left ramp return (before the trunk) the side, then remove the small plastic…under that is the last section of ball guide that is conveniently constructed as a “C” cut or channel. Loosen the screw, pull out the ballguide 1/4” and then re-secure. This will correct the issue.

Additionally-my pin only came with the left playfield alignment tab installed, so I installed one on the right side before adjusting the shooter rod. They are called “switch plate” left and right from pinball life

52913B90-3B05-48D9-BE2E-AEDC463FBBF1 (resized).png

Screw is still there, didn't realize they were slots, The screw is on the very edge of the bracket but probably not in a slot, I'll try the furthest slot and see if it still works. Thanks for the help. I made this change earlier today and then had to go out so didn't play any or test it.

Solved. In case anyone else has the issue:

The up/down post that makes the ball "lock" after passing though the garage was mis-aligned so the post never passed through the playfield. Since the post didn't hold the ball in front of the appropriate opto, the shot didn't register. I had to bend the up/down post bracket a little (from under the playfield) so that the post didn't "hang up" when passing through the playfield. In other words, the bracket needed to be bent to an exact 90 degree angle to the PF.

My apologies if this has been discussed before on this site.

Oh, I also opened a ticket with Stern last week with no response, so maybe this will help someone else looking to solve a similar problem... (?). NOW, I'm really looking forward to finally playing some games on her!

Question: is it possible to turn off the game end trailers?

I know you can make them shorter in the settings. I can’t remember if you can turn them off entirely. Definitely an option to make the end “highlight reel” shorter.

I always hit both flippers which sort of skips them. After the trailer starts (after the countdown) I hit both flippers and Elvira immediately pops up to say bye and you can start again.

I second what Pinkitten says. I didn't own my machine a week before I turned the setting to "short". They're funny, but it's too lengthy on stock setting.

Highly recommend turning on the house turret to spin when locking balls. Love the feature and it’s not used enough throughout the game, this helps show it off more.

Wait, some of you are moving the left orbit guide without taking it apart and just jamming those rubbers in there like that?

What. I have had this game since 2019 and somehow never noticed this setting!

No, that is not what I did, I took the plastics off and followed the steps and moved out the guide as far as I could, that put a rather large gap between the post and the rail so I put another rubber in there to close the gap, then had to go out. Saw the other users post and put up a pic to show how he could orient the rubber differently.

After some more experimentation today, found a solution that worked for me.
It seems like the problem when it hits the sling is that it comes straight down without hitting the post rubber at the end of the rail. I moved my rail guide all the way in and replace the stern tapered rubber with a straight rubber and ball grazes it now and goes to the left flipper.
Tapered rubber on left, replaced with standard shown on the right in picture.

Played a couple four player games. 90% of the shots coming out of there hit the left flipper as expected. Once or twice it hit the lowest part on the sling but didn't fire the slang, and then a few times it hit the middle of the sling.

Going to leave it set up like this and see how it goes, seems to be working well now. It's pinball and physics so it's not going to do the same thing 100% of the time, ball speed and the angle it comes around affects it slightly.

PXL_20230321_161358680 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230321_162129390 (resized).jpg

Ahhh, interesting take on that. Instead of pulling the guide out, push it in so the ball hits the post rubber..... I may have a go at that myself. A super fat old school post rubber may work even better.

I adjusted the guide out a bit, and then put a super fat older B/W sleeve over top of the Stern one - closed the gap pretty well. Seems to return to the flipper 90% of the time now.

I tried the steps in the video, moving the guide all the way out to the further spot, at least on my game when it did that slow balls that come out of the eject, for example from the back of the house would just drop right into the sling, faster shots were fine, but most of the shots coming down that rail are from that eject after shooting the house.

It definitely takes a little tinkering, I played around with micro adjustments of the rail and the different rubbers sizes to get it where it is now. If you use a rubber that is too fat or have the rail in too far then the ball will ricochet off the rubber and go to the right flipper.

Definitely trial and error.

Game pitch might have a bit of an impact also. Steeper setup might have the ball going downhill a bit steeper after the end of the guide and still catching the sling vs. a bit less pitch where the ball might drift just a bit more to the right.

Yeah seen someone post about it recently and figured I’d mention it for anyone that missed it. Love the difference it makes

It is feature adjustment #157 (Movie Trailer Length). It was set to 'Normal' on my EHOH and I would just hold both flipper buttons in to bypass the movie clips, so I changed it to 'Off' and now it doesn't play any end of game movie trailer clips. The 3 options are 'Off', 'Normal' and 'Short'.

Gord

P1030022 (resized).JPG

Is this game safe for kids? Are there bloody clips or terrifying ones? Is there an adult setting or something?

Nothing bloody or scary really. Just cleavage and some "back door" jokes that will go over kids heads. I'm not concerned about it, but I have seen some who are.

It really needs an adult mode like Scared Stiff had. I wonder if that was ever in the cards?

Has anyone been able to fix their crypt kicker VUK without redrilling the bracket holes? Perhaps by bending the bracket or using washer to re-angle it or something less invasive? I'm not getting the issue of it coming out of the vuk like a dribble and going towards the left outlane.

Thanks!