Quoted from Soltic:

Well, sorry for the laaaate reply.... had to go analog on this one.
Didn't recognize the place without all of the machines but did.... recognize the pinkish carpet and the front entrance.
Bob Volk's - great guy, bought the Tron cocktail seen on the cover from him years ago (15?) and restored it - only really needed the proper black t-molding and a new fan, still have it and think of him and that place when I play it.
Hope Bob is ok - he was a great guy to deal with and the place back in the day (between the machines and the house) was what my dreams were made of.
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God I miss Gameroom Mag.
Last owner was Kevin Steele I think - anyone know what happened to him?

Quoted from Rob_G:

I wish auto launched balls during multiball did a full orbit rather than being stopped to drop in the pops. I think it's cheesey that you can start a multiball and keep letting balls drain to advance the freak fryer so quickly.
Rob

Quoted from Mageek:

What are those things on top of all the pins, mini video games or 70’s blenders?
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Quoted from Ceemunkey:

Don't know if this will help, but I had an issue on my GB a while back where the flippers went dead randomly, and eventually after several temporary fixes by reconnecting the cables on the board they went dead permanently. It really looked like a board problem - however, after a few days of troubleshooting with AMD, it turned out to just be a dodgy GND pin in one of the molex connectors, even though they all seemed to be firmly attached and not loose in any way. Eventually we found it by removing the connector from the molex using a pin extractor, and it was clearly fubar. Plus I reckon if it was a bad board you'd see the problem consistently and disconnecting/reconnecting probably wouldn't make any difference. These boards certainly aren't cheap...

Quoted from pinballaddicted:

gumnut01 This is your issue. Sorry I did not see this earlier I would have let you know.

Quoted from tktlwyr:

Node 9, CN9, pin 8 the black and blue wire. If the pin is fully inserted, you may have to remove it from the connector and adjust the contact or possibly replace it.

Quoted from hAbO:

Those are Coleco Midway handheld games.
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Quoted from FlopTube:

Where did you find the Medisinyl Set? I’d like to get that myself.

Quoted from docquest:

On the Elvira 40th at exo they mounted the IC scanner on the right side but on the production versions they moved it to the left. We won't know for sure what they will be doing on this next run until they are built.
We also dont know yet if Stern will be using the newer style metal aprons (like Bond, Rush, Godzilla) with a smaller IC scanner sized hole on one of the sides or if will they still use the older aprons that have the full triangular window cutouts on both sides. I think it all depends on what aprons they have in stock at the time of the build.
If they use the newer style aprons you won't be able to use the dual screen mod since the IC hole is too small. If they use the older style apron we still don't know what side they will put the IC scanner on until we see them coming off the line.
And for those asking, yes I will make more apron video mods once the screens I use are in stock with the manufacturer. The manufacturer of the screens expects to have their screens back in production in a few months. I have tried other screens but they didn't look as good so I'm going to stick with them and wait until these are back in stock.
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Quoted from explosiveegg:

The Docquest mod is my personal favorite for the game.
Stern is no longer releasing games without insider connected, so it will have it, just on what side is the question. I don't think you'll know for certain until they actually make them. Most likely it'll be the same apron used in the 40th.
If you don't like Insider connected, you can just disconnect it and add his mod on both sides.
If you do like Insider connected, you can move it to the coin door with a mode like this and then still install his mod on both sides. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1295-gotfrogs/05706-insider-connected-qr-code-reader-mount-stern-volume-control
I honestly just have my insider connected unit zip tied to one of the wire management clips. I can access it from inside the coin door, but just use home team, so I don't really need to scan new ids frequently.

Quoted from gumnut01:

So still baffled. Molex seems ok, pins not wobbly. Found in-line molex connector, all wires not loose. So disconnected, reconnected, turned turret back on, does the initial light and turn stops on Elvira correctly and led goes off. I think this is correct. Did this for 3 game starts. Will check if it goes bad again. Can’t work it out. Unless it is a bad board as you say. Scarey thing is I could swap boards and maybe there was a something wrong with the pin that also stuffs up board 8. These boards are really hard to get hold of. Stern sell for 99 usd an Aussie distro sells for $390 Aud. And then says no warranty and states that any mods can destroy the node board so disconnect all mods first. Man!

Quoted from DrDoom:

Thanks, I also do not really need insider connected.
Ok good option move to the coindoor.
Now cross your fingers that Stern still uses the old Apron.
I have found at Pinballlife this Relocation Kit
https://www.pinballlife.com/insider-connected-coin-door-relocation-kit.html

Quoted from DrDoom:

Thanks, I also do not really need insider connected.
Ok good option move to the coindoor.
Now cross your fingers that Stern still uses the old Apron.
I have found at Pinballlife this Relocation Kit
https://www.pinballlife.com/insider-connected-coin-door-relocation-kit.html

Quoted from docquest:

Will that work on a European coin door?
I thought those didn't come with the cutout needed to put the scanner in it. [quoted image]

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Prob have to mount inside the door like someone described above? Question for you IC pros, do I have to scan my barcode each time I turn on my EHoH (or GZ)? So far that’s what I do. I assume it’s not necessary and I’m missing a step.

Quoted from tonedef131:

If you go into the network settings there’s an option to setup Hometeam. You can then scan up to 8 IC accounts to be stored in your machine and selected prior to starting a game without having to scan. This will carry over to all IC capable games in your collection.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Yep. Sort of makes the whole qr scanner sort of redundant now….

Quoted from tonedef131:

If you go into the network settings there’s an option to setup Hometeam. You can then scan up to 8 IC accounts to be stored in your machine and selected prior to starting a game without having to scan. This will carry over to all IC capable games in your collection.

Quoted from tktlwyr:

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Quoted from MarklarD:

Thanks for the heads up! Do you recall which window that mode is?

Quoted from WizzardRob:

Dealers have pricing and confirmation from Stern about February run. Thats great. It seems the wait is over.
Hopefully its not too small of a run. German customers however have to cope with 12700€ msrp

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me how the ball is dealt with if the VUK is disabled. How is it returned to the playfield if it’s not tossed across the playfield from the VUK?

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me how the ball is dealt with if the VUK is disabled. How is it returned to the playfield if it’s not tossed across the playfield from the VUK?

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

...the ball never enters the subway.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Oh, no! That's not what I was hoping for. I don't have this pin in my possesion yet, although I do technically own it as I have paid for my preorder in full. As such, I can't check in the game adjustments to see if indeed the VUK can be disabled. It would surprise me if it can't. I ask because EHOH is the one Stern that always seems to have the most dimpled playfield on location. I'm not keen on installing a PF protector or a big swath of Mylar, but if I don't and if I don't disable that VUK, I'm going to wince every time the ball is tossed a foot across the PF in the air. If disabling the VUK simply means disabling the scoop aspect of the Crypt, how will the game adjust scoring? I have been waiting patiently to own this game for three years now. The HUO examples were all priced above $10K for the past two years. Prior to that, they could be found for mid-eights, but I thought that was stupid-high and I waited. Now I have to spend $2K more - more than I've ever spent on a pin. Live and learn!

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Oh, no! That's not what I was hoping for. I don't have this pin in my possesion yet, although I do technically own it as I have paid for my preorder in full. As such, I can't check in the game adjustments to see if indeed the VUK can be disabled. It would surprise me if it can't. I ask because EHOH is the one Stern that always seems to have the most dimpled playfield on location. I'm not keen on installing a PF protector or a big swath of Mylar, but if I don't and if I don't disable that VUK, I'm going to wince every time the ball is tossed a foot across the PF in the air. If disabling the VUK simply means disabling the scoop aspect of the Crypt, how will the game adjust scoring? I have been waiting patiently to own this game for three years now. The HUO examples were all priced above $10K for the past two years. Prior to that, they could be found for mid-eights, but I thought that was stupid-high and I waited. Now I have to spend $2K more - more than I've ever spent on a pin. Live and learn!

Quoted from rai:

...if you worry about every little dimple on a pin you will be very disappointed. Dimples will happen, I’d rather have dimples than a PF protector.

Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

My Elvira 40th already had a couple of dimples right out of the box. I’m assuming someone at Stern was attempting to dial in the VUK.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't think I quite worry about every little dimple. I simply notice cratered playfields and lament how poorly they hold up - in particular from Stern. It's the great "hardess lottery." Some games are blessed with hard playfields that barely dimple at all, while others seems to have to balsa wood as their topmost layer and look like pooh within a month or two. EHOH is unique in how it tosses a ball higher into the air than any game I can think of. If I could disable that VUK and not disrupt the game otherwise I would do it just to avoid cratering over time. I will certainly go with Mylar if disabling the mech isn't practical. Thanks for your input though.

Quoted from zwartepanter:

I read many times why Elvira is so difficult to make again or why the cost is so high. Well take a look here...
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Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't think I quite worry about every little dimple. I simply notice cratered playfields and lament how poorly they hold up - in particular from Stern. It's the great "hardess lottery." Some games are blessed with hard playfields that barely dimple at all, while others seems to have to balsa wood as their topmost layer and look like pooh within a month or two. EHOH is unique in how it tosses a ball higher into the air than any game I can think of. If I could disable that VUK and not disrupt the game otherwise I would do it just to avoid cratering over time. I will certainly go with Mylar if disabling the mech isn't practical. Thanks for your input though.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't think I quite worry about every little dimple. I simply notice cratered playfields and lament how poorly they hold up - in particular from Stern. It's the great "hardess lottery." Some games are blessed with hard playfields that barely dimple at all, while others seems to have to balsa wood as their topmost layer and look like pooh within a month or two. EHOH is unique in how it tosses a ball higher into the air than any game I can think of. If I could disable that VUK and not disrupt the game otherwise I would do it just to avoid cratering over time. I will certainly go with Mylar if disabling the mech isn't practical. Thanks for your input though.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I've currently have Stern, JJP, CGC, and some classic Bally/Williams games. Had an American pinball for a while also. All of them dimpled. It happens. Yes, the older games were more resistant to it, but that's just how it is. My 2 cents worth.....
The old school clearcoats worked like a champ, but were potentially toxic and harmful if precautions weren't taken. Now, newer more environmentally friendly versions are the norm. Great, but less effective at doing what they're supposed to do, which is harden. Lol. No evidence, just a hunch. Anyway, point is. Get your game, play it, maintain it, have fun. Life is short.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Classic Playfields ran it down a few years ago (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-playfield-preorders-are-meaningless/page/2#post-4863477). Stern is using cheaper, less dense playfield blank layer combinations, so more dimples. It's OBVIOUS if you get a lot of Sterns. Even for the same title, some PFs are like moon craters, others are more like old school with just minor dimples.
Now that Stern is supposedly doing it all in-house, there will probably be more consistency. Don't know if that's good or bad.

Quoted from explosiveegg:

IMO, Stern's playfields all around look worse than a lot of their competitors. The print quality is significantly worse than JJP and CGC. Their clear coating looks much worse. My JP has chipped all over the place. It is not much of a surprise to hear that they're even using softer wood.
It's a shame, because that seems like a part of the machine you really shouldn't skimp on quality.
If dimples drive a person insane, this really isn't the game for them. That VUK is going to cause dimples.

Quoted from Damonator:

Stern clear is crazy soft. If you have a location, go check out their playfields on newer Stern games. It looks like the surface of the moon.
My EHoH got a playfield protector day 1 (as do all of my Sterns now). It sucks, but it's necessary for my sanity. I'm fine with small dimples like you see on CGC or Spooky. I'm not fine with moon craters.

Quoted from Geeterman1:

Clear coat isn’t going to stop dimples for the same reason a clear coat doesn’t prevent dings on your car. It’s the surface under (wood) that’s the cause of the dimples. A soft clear coat would scratch easier than a hard clear, that’s it.

Quoted from Damonator:

Unless the clear is so thick and soft that the dimples are in the clear itself (which is what's happening with a lot of Stern playfields).

Quoted from Geeterman1:

Clear coat isn’t going to stop dimples for the same reason a clear coat doesn’t prevent dings on your car. It’s the surface under (wood) that’s the cause of the dimples. A soft clear coat would scratch easier than a hard clear, that’s it.

Quoted from Mageek:

Absolutely , think about it , .002” of plastic vs steel ball. It doesn’t matter what era your clearcoat was made it’s 100% about how hard the wood is.

Quoted from Mageek:

Absolutely , think about it , .002” of plastic vs steel ball. It doesn’t matter what era your clearcoat was made it’s 100% about how hard the wood is.