Does anyone know off hand what color the GI lights are and who supplies them for Stern? I need to replace a couple for a mod I'm working on. Want to get the correct shade of white.

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The games are from a member of the german Pinball Forum.
He's got a few more. Not to much…..

in Play : AC/DC Lucy, Aerosmith LE, Alice Cooper, Avengers LE, Batman66 LE, Batman66 SLE, Beatles, BBB Prototype, BKSOR LE, Deadpool LE, Dialed In CE, Elvira HOH Signature Edition, Elvira LE, Elvira 40th, Ghostbusters LE, Godzilla LE, GOT LE, Guardians LE, GNR CE, Hobbit LE, Hotwheels, Jurassic Park, KISS LE, LED ZEP LE, LW3, Lord of the Rings Special-LE, Medieval Madness Remake Royal Edition, Metallica LE, Monster Bash Remake LE, Munsters LE, Playboy, POTC CE, Roller Coaster, Rick und Morty, Road Show, Shadow, Shrek, Spiderman Vault Edition, Star Wars LE, Stranger LE, Striker Extreme, Transformers LE, Turtles LE, Twilight Zone, Walking Dead LE, Willy Wonka CE , WPT, WWE LE und YBR

that's incredible!!

Which of the Elvira editions do you like the best?

The 40th…

Did Stern ever get the inside connect kit made for the Elvira Premiums? I’m wondering if I need to figure out how to rig one if not.

A trusted source is offering $658 if anyone is willing to part with their 40th Anniversary mod set (I agreed to post the offer here anonymously).

He would also consider trading his custom "Werewolves Not Swearwolves" standard set toward it.

If interested, let me know and I can give you their contact information

I installed their regular premium kit in mine no issues. I think the issue on the LE and SE is something on the right side, a signed card or something? IDK. But otherwise on the premium no issues.

Rehashing an old issue but new owner...my VUK works probably 60% of the time, shooting across to the bank target. other times, dribbles out like described in previous posts regarding this issue. Does the fix ensure the balls shoots out across the PF and hit the bank with every shot? trying to decide if it worth tinkering with or not. Lastly, I haven't read every post for the VUK fix but am I reading correctly that you have to drill new holes in order to reposition the mech?
thanks in advance.

anyone know where to find an updated rulesheet? Tilt forums hasn't been updated since 2019. thanks

The VUK needs to work 100% percent of the time. It wasn’t important in the being but became so when the code matured. The VUK needs to hit the flashing target to finishing off a dead head. There could be several things wrong with your VUK. One of the more common problems does require you do drill a new hole. You need to take a closer look at it and determine what your issue is.

okay, thanks for the insight. for clarification, before i start looking under the hood, you said there could be several things wrong. Is it all related to the positioning of the mech or is there something in addition to that? trying to not sift through 220 pages in the forum. thanks again.

Positioning of the mech and/or adjusting the top of the scoop.

Everything that could be wrong is all isolated to the VUK assembly. The assembly is heavy and sticks out pretty far on the bottom of the playfield. My theory is the VUK gets knocked out of alignment when shipped because the games are standing on their backsides causing strain on the VUK. Early games had the VUK installed in the wrong position (games made in 2019). Those needed relocated. Yours is probably out of alignment. Try this:

Remove the glass and drop a ball in the VUK. Pay attention on how well it shoots out. Now open the coin door. Reach in with one hand and pull the VUK assembly towards you while dropping a ball in the VUK with the other. Did it work much better? If so, you’re out of alignment. Lift the playfield up and give the VUK a little tug in the direction that that worked better for you. It doesn’t take much force but it needs hold the new position. After that, repeat the test and you should be good.

One simple place to try first might be with making a slight adjustment to the VUK deflector/hood to see if that improves your results. I'd try bending the tip end of it up just slightly. If that doesn't address your issue then move to other possibly more involved troubleshooting possibilities. Starting by taking slow motion video to see how the ball is coming out is usually a pretty good idea to try to diagnose the issue though.

No takers on this yet.

He's raised his offer to $900 PLUS a standard set, for the 40th anniversary set (he has either an Elvira Mistress of the Dark set with the updated V2 Gargoyle, or the original custom set mentioned above).

While I expressed hope that nobody would buy the 40th set just to flip, I'd understand if someone took an open offer like this.

EDIT: The offer has tentatively been claimed.

Wow, that would be a no brainer for me, but I don’t have the 40th anniversary set.

That really says a lot about how everyone values your work that an amazing offer like this doesn’t have folks budging. I just got your standard set last week in the mail and it blew me away. I can only imagine what the 40th set looks like in person.

Eh, it's okay I guess . . . if you like quality workmanship combined with limited availability in a mod for one of the best games ever.

I became a Premium owner last weekend. Looking forward to learning this game.

Just have him wait until next year and you can make 1 more unit as it will be the 41st year anniversary.

Perfect. I will hunt down a regular premium kit and be off to the races. Thank you!

The plan is to do my final run call on Elvira mods by Sept., and make one more unique (non-40th) set to donate to the Project Pinball Charity Auction (October/Expo).

Just joined.........she’s lovely!

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Has anyone ever considered making wireforms for this? I think it would be a nice upgrade.

All three of those are lovelies.

Issues I can think of are you still need a plastic ramp with turnarounds to get to the wire form, and then you would need custom mounts for the flashers that sit off the side of the plastic. Not to mention that a lot of owners have the grass/casket mods from Medisinyl that work based on the plastic.

I do worry a little bit about the ramps breaking after many years. Maybe I should reach out to my distributor and ask for the cost of those ramps/plastics. I can report back if there are any other curious folks.

I'd take a couple sets if they make them available.

Thank you!

Loving this game so far, no regrets on trading my “bolted to the floor” TZ off for this girl. So much more depth and code to explore!

So my initial setup work after skimming the last couple years of this forum for common issues, really just notes that could help others but open to any comments or suggestions. I am very comfortable dialing in modern stern machines.

Replaced Mylar under ramp entrances, check your ramp flaps for digging in and protect your playfield.

Adjusted (bent by hand) right ramp metal bracket on left side to line up with plastic better and level front edge, was digging through Mylar and had a little damage to pf.

3 of 4 gargoyles were actually contacting glass when fully extended after I cleaned up the shafts.......I understand why they break! Fixed by drilling stem new holes and moving screw up on all four shafts roughly 1.5” on lower pair and 1” on upper pair.

Tried to adjust left gargoyle target for better contact / consistency and learned a lot about how these guys work. Seems like you need the bash plate touching the target directly and the smallest gap possible on the switch for max sensitivity and accuracy.

Lots of loose screws, adjustments and re-adjustments, the usual with an experienced game (3rd owner 1600 plays). The ball is still sticking occasionally in the house shot with diverter down on a slow roller but ball search will get that if a multi ball doesn’t. I will probably take the house off eventually and get this dialed in better.

Vault VUK had the shorter screw already and concave striker, but wasn’t moved correctly per the key post(s) so I straightened that out per measurements shared and it’s running about 95% accuracy. On my game basically all I had to do was remove the three screws on the outside and let the coil bracket assembly hang naturally then attach to playfield. (Hard to believe how far off those pilot holes were)

One instance where one ball then a second ball got stuck in back door coming in from the left loop, and ball search didn’t clear either ball, eventually ended my game. Shut it off for the night and everything worked fine today in test mode.

Weird moment where an air ball on left ramp missed opto and landed back on ramp rolling into the coffin, game took several ball searches to clear that one. Probably working as designed.

I’ve has two resets, both at start of Manster haunt and I think I had un-happy hour running both times. Known bug?

Topper scream: only opens about 45 degrees, is that normal? Seems like it should go open a full 90 degrees from closed.

For those interested, my distributor basically told me that Stern won’t let you buy these replacement parts while it is an actively produced title unless you can prove your part is broken.

Pinball life has right side (full assembly) I noticed today

https://www.pinballlife.com/elviras-house-of-horrors-right-ramp-entrance-assembly.html

The gargoyles are designed to hit the glass, and yes, the topper only opens partially.

Why? They didn't pinstripe the Batman SLEs that were the first ones at $15k. Just put a sticker on the lockdown bar that came off as soon as it warmed up from your hands. Corners cut all over that SLE. I'm sure Elvira is the same.

That just seems like a bad idea or engineering error. You’re serious here?

True. Don’t know why I would expect anything more than the bare minimum from Stern… but they sure do make they best games and I can’t stop buying them.

Yup, homage to scared stiff. They will be fine, wont hurt glass

It's a Dennis Nordman tradition really. The frogs in Scared Stiff are designed to pop up and hit the glass too, and it all pales next to the crack of the ball smacking the glass on the long ramp in White Water.

Take those bolts out and enjoy your game as it was intended. No damage will occur,,,,, ,probably

Lol no thanks, I will leave them and sleep just fine. I prefer not replacing parts if it can be avoided-

1000 + games on mine, no issues. But, be happy with your game, it's a great one!!

It is your game but keep in mind the designer designed them to smack the glass. If it were me, I would be trying to figure out why my fourth one wasn't making contact with the glass.

I have an Elvira HOH 2 screen Video Display Mod from Doquest. It was purchased in anticipation of me actually getting my game, which sadly has not happened. My loss is your gain. This is a brand new set, never installed I am asking $275.00 shipped. PM Me if interested.

So topper worth it? Is the scream too annoying? Is it awesome????

Edit: screw it. Just bought it. Never thought I would pay this much for a topper!

I’m not a topper guy, but I do like this topper. The scream frequency is adjustable, and mine only happens a couple times each game. It’s ok, nothing spectacular about the scream. But what I find worthwhile about the topper is the look of it, and how it seems to complete the game. The gargoyles design and build quality is quite good, and it really looks like it belongs on this machine. It’s debatable whether it’s really worth the price, but I’m sure for some buyers it’s a valuable upgrade. I paid $1500 for mine and I’m glad I got one.

Thanks for the feedback. Looking forward to getting it.

I love it, congrats

Installed the Docquest video display mod in my right apron today. Great mod, and wasn’t hard to install either. Just be sure to order a splitter from Doug at Speakerlightkits.com if you have another mod plugged into the 12v in the backbox. Awesome mod by Docquest!

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