(Topic ID: 252126)

Elvira's House of Horrors - The Owner's Club

By RobertWinter

4 years ago


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  • 17,980 posts
  • 1,015 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Harvester
  • Topic is favorited by 453 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Do you currently own other Elvira machines?”

  • This is my frst Elvira machine 488 votes
    69%
  • Also own Elvira and the Party Monsters 41 votes
    6%
  • Also own Scared Stiff 116 votes
    16%
  • I own all three now! 61 votes
    9%

(706 votes)

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#9451 2 years ago

I am still having a problem with the trunk. What's supposed to happen when you qualify it and shoot the ball into it via the left ramp? When I do this, it immediately kicks the ball out and doesn't appear to start a mode or anything.

The game obviously knows the ball is there because it kicks it out right away. Switches seemed to test OK in switch test. Any idea what to look for?

#9452 2 years ago

I lived in St Peters for 5 years.. how the hell did I not know about this store?! LOL

#9453 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I am still having a problem with the trunk. What's supposed to happen when you qualify it and shoot the ball into it via the left ramp? When I do this, it immediately kicks the ball out and doesn't appear to start a mode or anything.
The game obviously knows the ball is there because it kicks it out right away. Switches seemed to test OK in switch test. Any idea what to look for?

Not sure what you should look for, but when you hit all the targets on the left the trunk opens. Then when you shoot the left ramp it locks the ball. There is an animation of a hand grabbing the ball on the screen, and you are awarded whatever item was lit in front of the targets (raygun, skeleton key, etc...) When you get two balls locked it should start junk in the trunk multiball.

Also, if you happen to get it below the trunk right above the targets (kind of like a back door to the trunk lock), it should lock the ball also. Maybe testing that out might lead to some more things to investigate.

#9454 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I lived in St Peters for 5 years.. how the hell did I not know about this store?! LOL

the one in LSL had about 6 of each version left on the shelf. we've only had the store in the area a couple of years...there's another on manchester in west co

#9455 2 years ago
Quoted from MarklarD:

Not sure what you should look for, but when you hit all the targets on the left the trunk opens. Then when you shoot the left ramp it locks the ball. There is an animation of a hand grabbing the ball on the screen, and you are awarded whatever item was lit in front of the targets (raygun, skeleton key, etc...) When you get two balls locked it should start junk in the trunk multiball.
Also, if you happen to get it below the trunk right above the targets (kind of like a back door to the trunk lock), it should lock the ball also. Maybe testing that out might lead to some more things to investigate.

OK, yeah...never seen any lock animations or gotten a multiball. It immediately kicks the ball out. I'll have to dig around a bit I guess.

#9456 2 years ago

Check the switch in the trunk on the playfield

20210813_213417 (resized).jpg20210813_213417 (resized).jpg
#9457 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I lived in St Peters for 5 years.. how the hell did I not know about this store?! LOL

Maybe you knew it as Garden Ridge, its former name?

#9458 2 years ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

My VUK has never worked 100% from day 1. I tried everything, moving it as per the Stern recommendation, cupping the end of the kicker plunger, adjusting the position of the coil, etc. NOTHING would make it work 100%.
But Medisinyl and sirlonzelot brought up something in another thread that I had never thought of. The ball was hitting the lower teeth on the Gargoyle mod on sirlonzelot's VUK. Using Medisinyl's recommendation he fixed this by adjusting the TOP of the VUK.
In changing my coffin and gargoyle mod this weekend, I bent the top of the VUK so it was just under the inside top of the gargoyle mouth. And now my VUK shoots perfectly to the 36-24-36 targets EVERY time!
Here's a measurement I took for anyone interested.[quoted image]

I wanted to thank you for this! I've had problems with shitty VUK launches since day one and have been aware of the repositioning of the whole assembly below the PF but just haven't bothered taking the plunge. I saw this yesterday and decided to take a quick measurement of mine and I wasn't even at 1 1/8" so I padded my adjustable wrench and bent it up to 1 7/16", which didn't take much effort and voila this was the fix, 100%! Thank you.

#9459 2 years ago

Re-joined the club again with a NIB premium may 2021 run. Had to adjust the crypt but that is working fine now but I still have an issue with the vuk of the house, everytime the ramp goes up and shoots the ball it goes stdm 100% of the time. Played with the pitch but that didn’t solve it.

Any ideas ?

#9460 2 years ago

Continue to have this problem where the ramp will just open - and not shut - and it thinks that a ball went into the back door - you can hear it trying to eject. I just the spring underneath - seems fine. Not sure what to go from here. Some games it will work fine for a while - maybe it's two issues - once with the ramp - and one with a sensor in the scoop? Ideas?

IMG_0172 (resized).jpegIMG_0172 (resized).jpeg
#9461 2 years ago

<S O L D>

Brand New set of EHOH Stern Side Blades

Ordered Extra Set by Mistake

90$ shipped - willing to lose the tax and shipping I paid

Message with interest

< S O L D >

#9462 2 years ago
Quoted from Wzpin:

Continue to have this problem where the ramp will just open - and not shut - and it thinks that a ball went into the back door - you can hear it trying to eject. I just the spring underneath - seems fine. Not sure what to go from here. Some games it will work fine for a while - maybe it's two issues - once with the ramp - and one with a sensor in the scoop? Ideas?
[quoted image]

I had to switch two connectors for the house optos in my game. They were incorrectly labeled at the factory. Hope this helps!

#9463 2 years ago

Probably more of a general Stern question, so my apologies, but has anyone ordered accessories from Stern lately? I ordered a shooter rod & side blades on the 5th and they havent even shipped yet, curious if anyone knows what kind of lead time they typically pull off.

thanks

#9464 2 years ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Probably more of a general Stern question, so my apologies, but has anyone ordered accessories from Stern lately? I ordered a shooter rod & side blades on the 5th and they havent even shipped yet, curious if anyone knows what kind of lead time they typically pull off.
thanks

I don’t know Stern’s typical lead times, but keep in mind EVERYTHING is taking longer in shipping. The only things I’ve received even remotely on time are prepackaged commodity things, or custom made items where the manufacturer had a huge inventory of parts. And I’m not even talking about pinball

#9465 2 years ago

Went to the Pinball Hall of Fame in Lv again this weekend, and again, Elvira was down. The staff said it's a problematic machine for them, but one of them said it's because it was a first run game.

Does that mean the issues from the first run have been resolved in subsequent runs? I'd like to feel as though mine will be "better" on delivery next year. I'm getting it regardless, because come on...it's a great game when it works, right lol? Just trying to get a feel for what issues I can expect to need to address most likely on delivery.

#9466 2 years ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

I want the side armor, if I can find it. Haven’t seen it in stock anywhere.

nitropinball.com has them for pre-order. I paid for a set. Still hoping Stern isn't going to change their mind about making more.

#9467 2 years ago
Quoted from Ruenin:

Went to the Pinball Hall of Fame in Lv again this weekend, and again, Elvira was down. The staff said it's a problematic machine for them, but one of them said it's because it was a first run game.
Does that mean the issues from the first run have been resolved in subsequent runs? I'd like to feel as though mine will be "better" on delivery next year. I'm getting it regardless, because come on...it's a great game when it works, right lol? Just trying to get a feel for what issues I can expect to need to address most likely on delivery.

the issue we've seen over and over again on this game is the ramp opto. I wonder if that's what it is there as well

#9468 2 years ago

It does seem to be a little bit of a persnickety game. But nothing is a deal breaker or really all that hard to correct, if you do run into one of the three or four common issues. I sold my Stranger Things Premium to get my EHOH, and ST was FAR more difficult to dial in and address the issues it had (TK lock alone is more troublesome than all of EHOH). EHOH might be the most level-demanding pin I have ever seen. Level and pitch seem to clear up the majority of issues. I do recommend finding and following the Stern pdf for VUK repair, which requires removing a couple of screws, turning the mech about 1/2 an inch and then tightening back down - IF you have issues with the VUK being weak.

#9469 2 years ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

EHOH might be the most level-demanding pin I have ever seen. Level and pitch seem to clear up the majority of issues.

I agree with this. Surprisingly sensitive to being level and at the right pitch. Even the skill shot is particularly sensitive to it.

#9470 2 years ago
Quoted from Wzpin:

Continue to have this problem where the ramp will just open - and not shut - and it thinks that a ball went into the back door - you can hear it trying to eject. I just the spring underneath - seems fine. Not sure what to go from here. Some games it will work fine for a while - maybe it's two issues - once with the ramp - and one with a sensor in the scoop? Ideas?
[quoted image]

yes the alignment on the backdoor skill shot is off. Remove the house and adjust the upper opto. Also you might want to shim the lower opto since its sticks through the metal shelf the ball travels to the cellar.

#9471 2 years ago
Quoted from Ruenin:

Went to the Pinball Hall of Fame in Lv again this weekend, and again, Elvira was down. The staff said it's a problematic machine for them, but one of them said it's because it was a first run game.
Does that mean the issues from the first run have been resolved in subsequent runs? I'd like to feel as though mine will be "better" on delivery next year. I'm getting it regardless, because come on...it's a great game when it works, right lol? Just trying to get a feel for what issues I can expect to need to address most likely on delivery.

It can vary from game to game. I’ve had mine for over a year and it’s given me no problems. I had the standard VUK issue, where it didn’t shoot the ball across the playfield and hit the stand ups, but I adjusted it and it’s perfect now. The house is a pretty complex mech, with several places to enter. Plus you have the crypt and the trunk, so it’s got some moving parts. But I’ve been lucky, it’s a very reliable game for me, and I’m the second owner of mine. First owner said he had no issues. I hope you get yours soon! You’ll love it.

#9472 2 years ago

Agreed -for anyone on the fence that has the opportunity to get one -this pin is oustanding! I find myself either enraged at its brutal ways or basking in its over-the-top glory. Once you get into the flow-zone it just turns into a monster hotrod! Really special machine for me on many levels

Plus yeah, the code really does live up to the hype..its completely and totally warped lol. Speaking of which.. I did happen to notice in that recent article that it stated Lyman's departure from Stern was back in late last year -and being that we've seen updates at least as late as March of this year (if I remember off hand), wouldnt that mean there must have been some ongoing arrangement for updates even though his employment was already over? We might just see some of those artwork references coded yet! Thought Id share that! : ))

#9473 2 years ago
Quoted from KlownHammer:

Plus yeah, the code really does live up to the hype..its completely and totally warped lol. Speaking of which.. I did happen to notice in that recent article that it stated Lyman's departure from Stern was back in late last year -and being that we've seen updates at least as late as March of this year (if I remember off hand), wouldnt that mean there must have been some ongoing arrangement for updates even though his employment was already over? We might just see some of those artwork references coded yet! Thought Id share that! : ))

I think the last 2 updates were done by other Stern programmers.

Rob

#9474 2 years ago

Complete NOOB question...

How do I adjust playfield switches on Stern games? I've done this a million times on B/W games, super easy. My trunk Lock 1 switch registers with my finger but not the ball. The way the switch wire is bent (with the "tab" bent into the end) it doesn't let you adjust the way you could on B/W games. As-is, I can't seem to get the switch to ride higher above the playfield. I could remove the switch and rebend the whole thing, but there has to be an easier way.

#9475 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Complete NOOB question...
How do I adjust playfield switches on Stern games? I've done this a million times on B/W games, super easy. My trunk Lock 1 switch registers with my finger but not the ball. The way the switch wire is bent (with the "tab" bent into the end) it doesn't let you adjust the way you could on B/W games. As-is, I can't seem to get the switch to ride higher above the playfield. I could remove the switch and rebend the whole thing, but there has to be an easier way.

In this case, remove one of the screws, that hold the switch under the playfield and let only one screw left to fix the switch. So you can adjust it a little, so that the switch wire gets a little higher up into the playfield. One screw is enough to hold the switch in place.
I did this with 2 switches on my BKSOR, had the same little issue.

#9476 2 years ago

Has anyone had issues triggering one or more of the four 'GARGOILs' switches?

I have had issues from day one and it looks to be a combination of the metal L plate that you hit and the flat bar design of the gargoyle. I find that the metal L twists/skews, which causes the flatbar to bind. I have tightened the screw down, under the gargoyle but the ball still cause it to twist/skew. I also have the switch underneath almost touching and yet there always seems to be at leat one which won't register a hit.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

#9477 2 years ago

For the right ramp opto fix (making holes bigger)... how difficult is it to remove the ramp. It looks like a rather quick removal, but hoping someone that's done it can chime in.

#9478 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Has anyone had issues triggering one or more of the four 'GARGOILs' switches?
I have had issues from day one and it looks to be a combination of the metal L plate that you hit and the flat bar design of the gargoyle. I find that the metal L twists/skews, which causes the flatbar to bind. I have tightened the screw down, under the gargoyle but the ball still cause it to twist/skew. I also have the switch underneath almost touching and yet there always seems to be at leat one which won't register a hit.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Have you tried testing the switch in diagnostics to see if it is always active which prevents it from registering when hit? Several folks, myself included, had this problem because the rivet on the outside of the switch assembly is activated for some unknown reason by the cover metal plate that touches it (the metal plate is part of the gargoyle assembly). Thus, the game thinks the switch is always active and no hits are registered. The solution is to prevent the metal plate from touching the rivet via sticking tape or something between the plate and rivet. I have 3 targets that work fine, but the 4th needed this fix to work properly.

#9479 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

For the right ramp opto fix (making holes bigger)... how difficult is it to remove the ramp. It looks like a rather quick removal, but hoping someone that's done it can chime in.

I needed to do this fix and didn't even totally remove it from the game. I obviously detached it (which is easy) but just drilled (enlarged) the holes while still wired in. Probably did the whole thing in about 15+ minutes. Completely fixed my issue.

#9480 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Complete NOOB question...
How do I adjust playfield switches on Stern games? I've done this a million times on B/W games, super easy. My trunk Lock 1 switch registers with my finger but not the ball. The way the switch wire is bent (with the "tab" bent into the end) it doesn't let you adjust the way you could on B/W games. As-is, I can't seem to get the switch to ride higher above the playfield. I could remove the switch and rebend the whole thing, but there has to be an easier way.

Sometimes you can just loosen the screws holding the switch in place which can give a small amount of adjustability.

Rob

#9481 2 years ago
Quoted from Slapfighter:

In this case, remove one of the screws, that hold the switch under the playfield and let only one screw left to fix the switch. So you can adjust it a little, so that the switch wire gets a little higher up into the playfield. One screw is enough to hold the switch in place.
I did this with 2 switches on my BKSOR, had the same little issue.

Quoted from Rob_G:

Sometimes you can just loosen the screws holding the switch in place which can give a small amount of adjustability.
Rob

For anyone reading, this fixed my issue. I didn't have enough play keeping both screws in, but removing one definitely worked.

To clarify, it doesn't actually raise the wire arm any higher above the playfield. The way the Stern switches are bent, it actually prevents the arms from going any higher than their initial position. However, the tilting trick closes the gap between the switch base and the trigger arm, so the wire doesn't need to be pressed down as far to close the switch.

Thanks guys!

#9482 2 years ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Have you tried testing the switch in diagnostics to see if it is always active which prevents it from registering when hit? Several folks, myself included, had this problem because the rivet on the outside of the switch assembly is activated for some unknown reason by the cover metal plate that touches it (the metal plate is part of the gargoyle assembly). Thus, the game thinks the switch is always active and no hits are registered. The solution is to prevent the metal plate from touching the rivet via sticking tape or something between the plate and rivet. I have 3 targets that work fine, but the 4th needed this fix to work properly.

I have done the switch testing in diagnostics but I will have a look at this as well as I can see that being a problem the way that you've described it. I do wish that they would have used the same approach and round rods for these as they did in Scared Stiff but what can you do?

#9483 2 years ago

Here is the 4 x Hotrod's and 8 x Elvira's Macabre Mobile (Black 58' Thunderbird) $50 AUD each + postage.

This Thunderbird Hotwheels car came with a hard top and was modified and painted.
It does come in 3 varieties:
3 available - grey interior, clear windscreen and white wall rubber types,
1 available - black interior, greenish windscreen and white wall rubber tyres,
4 available - black interior, greenish screen and regular spoked type wheels.

All in their own custom storage case. Was not re-riveted base but hotrods refastened with one screw and Thunderbird's lockin nice and firm and a dab of glue could be added but left clipped so if you wanted to add lighting etc.

Just send a message if you want one of the hotrods or thunderbirds - or both. Postage will not be much more if anything for a second car.

IMG_6546 (resized).JPGIMG_6546 (resized).JPGIMG_6551 (resized).JPGIMG_6551 (resized).JPGIMG_6617 (resized).JPGIMG_6617 (resized).JPGIMG_6633 (resized).JPGIMG_6633 (resized).JPG

Note: Elvira cars were never made by Hotwheels so these are truely custom, cut the roofs off, cleaned up and painted.

IMG_6468 (resized).JPGIMG_6468 (resized).JPG

#9484 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:Here is the 4 x Hotrod's and 8 x Elvira's Macabre Mobile (Black 58' Thunderbird) $50 AUD each + postage.
This Thunderbird Hotwheels car came with a hard top and was modified and painted.
It does come in 3 varieties:
3 available - grey interior, clear windscreen and white wall rubber types,
1 available - black interior, greenish windscreen and white wall rubber tyres,
4 available - black interior, greenish screen and regular spoked type wheels.
All in their own custom storage case. Was not re-riveted base but hotrods refastened with one screw and Thunderbird's lockin nice and firm and a dab of glue could be added but left clipped so if you wanted to add lighting etc.
Just send a message if you want one of the hotrods or thunderbirds - or both. Postage will not be much more if anything for a second car.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Note: Elvira cars were never made by Hotwheels so these are truely custom, cut the roofs off, cleaned up and painted.
[quoted image]

Looking good! It's true the Macabre Mobile was never made by HotWheels, but they WERE made by the much smaller Johnny Lightning brand:

ebay.com link: itm

These have spiderweb front grilles and a couple of other nice little details you will never notice in the game in a million years But I put one in mine anyway

#9485 2 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Just recently I started to have a little trouble with Elvira. When ever I started a mode the ball would just come out of the house and it didn’t lock(hold) the ball. This was a bit frustrating because as she was talking and all the GI lighting was dimmed the ball was hard to see and cause unwanted drains. So I took a look at what keeps the ball locked(A post that’s always down) and it was actually binding on the edge which wouldn’t allow it to go back to the down position. I loosened up two screws and realigned the post and now it’s working as it should. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Wildbill327:

Just recently I started to have a little trouble with Elvira. When ever I started a mode the ball would just come out of the house and it didn’t lock(hold) the ball. This was a bit frustrating because as she was talking and all the GI lighting was dimmed the ball was hard to see and cause unwanted drains. So I took a look at what keeps the ball locked(A post that’s always down) and it was actually binding on the edge which wouldn’t allow it to go back to the down position. I loosened up two screws and realigned the post and now it’s working as it should. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image]

This worked perfect for me. I just added 2 washers behind the bracket and have zero issues. thanks for the pictures

#9486 2 years ago

Hot off the press ladies and gentlemen. Rocket city pinball made another killer start botton. Let me know what you think. they have other colors if you’re not a fan of the green.

4F155670-B723-42E8-A8ED-461E5DC1AF2A (resized).jpeg4F155670-B723-42E8-A8ED-461E5DC1AF2A (resized).jpeg71876197-FD98-46CD-8F46-78F2C957B2CE (resized).jpeg71876197-FD98-46CD-8F46-78F2C957B2CE (resized).jpegEFCE35F1-A13B-4AA7-A107-34D1914D5194 (resized).jpegEFCE35F1-A13B-4AA7-A107-34D1914D5194 (resized).jpeg
#9487 2 years ago
Quoted from DVDA:

Hot off the press ladies and gentlemen. Rocket city pinball made another killer start botton. Let me know what you think. they have other colors if you’re not a fan of the green.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Will start chip off ??

That’s is my only concern

Otherwise looks amazing

#9488 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Will start chip off ??
That’s is my only concern
Otherwise looks amazing

I seriously doubt it not unless you smash the start button with a hammer every time you play a game. lol

#9489 2 years ago
Quoted from DVDA:

Hot off the press ladies and gentlemen. Rocket city pinball made another killer start botton. Let me know what you think. they have other colors if you’re not a fan of the green.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Man your pics turned out amazing!!! I'll be updating my Pinside shop & website with these pics, with your concurrence of course. Thanks for posting!

Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Will start chip off ?? That’s is my only concern. Otherwise looks amazing

Nope, it's all printed together as a single print, so even though the colors are different, the plastic is still all fused together. In addition, I added extra "meat" in the gaps of the webs, hiding underneath the lettering, to give them more bond/attachment. So you'd need a chisel to chip those letters off.

And the very few customers who've ever had one of my products break (e.g., an earlier product flaw that I've since eliminated) could tell you that I warranty my parts 100%. If it breaks, I'll replace it for you free of charge.

#9490 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

[quoted image]
Man your pics turned out amazing!!! I'll be updating my Pinside shop & website with these pics, with your concurrence of course. Thanks for posting!

Nope, it's all printed together as a single print, so even though the colors are different, the plastic is still all fused together. In addition, I added extra "meat" in the gaps of the webs, hiding underneath the lettering, to give them more bond/attachment. So you'd need a chisel to chip those letters off.
And the very few customers who've ever had one of my products break (e.g., an earlier product flaw that I've since eliminated) could tell you that I warranty my parts 100%. If it breaks, I'll replace it for you free of charge.

Gotcha

Like I said looks amazing

Where or how may I order one

#9491 2 years ago

I like the button but don’t like the double “Start”s.

#9492 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

I like the button but don’t like the double “Start”s.

Agreed.

#9493 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

I like the button but don’t like the double “Start”s.

The factory button also says start- maybe if they change the color so both starts aren’t red.

#9494 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

The factory button also says start- maybe if they change the color so both starts aren’t red.

I like how the black is outlined around the red it stands out more just like the cabinet decal.

#9495 2 years ago

Just got my full set of cliffy protectors out. Just to confirm, to get the crypt installed the crypt needs to come fully off and to install the garage drop target protector the house has to come fully off?

I have only found a few photos and no manual per se in how to install them.

#9496 2 years ago
Quoted from DVDA:

I like how the black is outlined around the red it stands out more just like the cabinet decal.

Thanks that's exactly what I was going for!

Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Gotcha
Like I said looks amazing
Where or how may I order one

They're available via my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com) or in my Pinside shop (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05332-3d-start-button-elvira-s-house-of-horrors )

Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

The factory button also says start- maybe if they change the color so both starts aren’t red.

That's no problem at all -- I can do the lettering (and the shadowing) in any color you want. Here are a few other configurations, one of which shows the START letters in green:

Elvira_colors_RCP (resized).jpgElvira_colors_RCP (resized).jpg

#9497 2 years ago

The screw connecting my trunk lid to the plunger fell out on mine. I see where it needs to go to connect it back in and I found the screw, nut, and spacer in the bottom of the cabinet. Question is what's the best way to get at it to reattach it. Can it be done pretty easily by only removing the crate lid, or just taking off a side of the crate, or taking off both the lid and a side, etc?

#9498 2 years ago

I would like to go back in time and play the 0.84 - version of Elvira. (just for fun)
Does anyone still have the firmware v0.84.0 or a version before 0.9 on his computer or knows a download-link?

#9499 2 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

The screw connecting my trunk lid to the plunger fell out on mine. I see where it needs to go to connect it back in and I found the screw, nut, and spacer in the bottom of the cabinet. Question is what's the best way to get at it to reattach it. Can it be done pretty easily by only removing the crate lid, or just taking off a side of the crate, or taking off both the lid and a side, etc?

This happened to me recently, and I just removed the side of the crate to install the screw and bushing and tighten. Mine didn’t have a nut. It screwed into the bracket on the lid.

#9500 2 years ago
Quoted from orangestorm87:

Just got my full set of cliffy protectors out. Just to confirm, to get the crypt installed the crypt needs to come fully off and to install the garage drop target protector the house has to come fully off?
I have only found a few photos and no manual per se in how to install them.

Didn't take anything fully off just loosened and finagled and then used my wife's smaller hands! Don't forget the cellar scoop I accidentally put 2 Cliffys on the garage drop target then had to remove 1 so learn from my mistake

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$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Don's Pinball Swag Barn
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 11.00
$ 38.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 7.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 60.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Don's Pinball Swag Barn
Toys/Add-ons
$ 99.99
Cabinet - Decals
Maine Home Recreation
Decals
$ 6.00
Playfield - Protection
Apron Envy
Protection
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 12,999.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
Pinball Machine
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
$ 20.00
Electronics
Gameroom Mods
Electronics
19,900
$ 60.00
Tools
Performance Pinball
Tools
From: $ 7.50
Playfield - Protection
Pin Monk
Protection
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
$ 38.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
From: $ 35.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
$ 5.00
Lighting - Backbox
Gameroom Mods
Backbox
$ 19.95
Electronics
Lermods
Electronics
$ 18.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
Other
9,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Wentzville, MO
13,800
Machine - For Sale
St. Petersburg, FL
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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