(Topic ID: 252126)

Elvira's House of Horrors - The Owner's Club

By RobertWinter

1 year ago


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  • 9,615 posts
  • 586 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by stf_dnx
  • Topic is favorited by 264 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Do you currently own other Elvira machines?”

  • This is my frst Elvira machine 271 votes
    63%
  • Also own Elvira and the Party Monsters 28 votes
    7%
  • Also own Scared Stiff 87 votes
    20%
  • I own all three now! 44 votes
    10%

(430 votes)

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#9351 54 days ago

I just received my new in box Elvira House of Horrors last weekend only to find that there are multiple problems with the game play. I was hoping someone could provide information comparing what switches are shown active at the point when one has turned the game on and gone directly to the active switch test in the diagnostics menu. I was surprised to find that my game is showing 14 active switches including some that make sense and others that make me wonder...Here is my list:

- trough switches 1 to 6
- right flipper EOS
- left flipper EOS
- Turret Opto 4
- House target left
- House diverter motor up
- Crypt motor 1
- Crypt motor 2
- House ramp motor up

Would be great if someone with a fully working game could compare my list to theirs and let me know switches that are active on my list, but not active as you turn the game on and do the diagnostic active switch test. Would also be interested in switches that your game shows as active that are not active per my list.

Just to clarify, I tested and all of the solenoids are responding in diagnostic test mode, so that is why I am focusing on switches.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

#9352 53 days ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

I just received my new in box Elvira House of Horrors last weekend only to find that there are multiple problems with the game play. I was hoping someone could provide information comparing what switches are shown active at the point when one has turned the game on and gone directly to the active switch test in the diagnostics menu. I was surprised to find that my game is showing 14 active switches including some that make sense and others that make me wonder...Here is my list:
- trough switches 1 to 6
- right flipper EOS
- left flipper EOS
- Turret Opto 4
- House target left
- House diverter motor up
- Crypt motor 1
- Crypt motor 2
- House ramp motor up
Would be great if someone with a fully working game could compare my list to theirs and let me know switches that are active on my list, but not active as you turn the game on and do the diagnostic active switch test. Would also be interested in switches that your game shows as active that are not active per my list.
Just to clarify, I tested and all of the solenoids are responding in diagnostic test mode, so that is why I am focusing on switches.
Thanks, in advance, for your help.

There are so many switches there this seems to me like a signaling problem. I'd disconnect and reconnect all the plugs on the node boards with the game off, then turn it back on to see.

#9353 53 days ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

I just received my new in box Elvira House of Horrors last weekend only to find that there are multiple problems with the game play. I was hoping someone could provide information comparing what switches are shown active at the point when one has turned the game on and gone directly to the active switch test in the diagnostics menu. I was surprised to find that my game is showing 14 active switches including some that make sense and others that make me wonder...Here is my list:
- trough switches 1 to 6
- right flipper EOS
- left flipper EOS
- Turret Opto 4
- House target left
- House diverter motor up
- Crypt motor 1
- Crypt motor 2
- House ramp motor up
Would be great if someone with a fully working game could compare my list to theirs and let me know switches that are active on my list, but not active as you turn the game on and do the diagnostic active switch test. Would also be interested in switches that your game shows as active that are not active per my list.
Just to clarify, I tested and all of the solenoids are responding in diagnostic test mode, so that is why I am focusing on switches.
Thanks, in advance, for your help.

I turned my machine on and went straight into active switch test. Here's a list of the switch numbers that showed in my active switch test:
11, 5, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 49, 77, 78, 52, 38, 60

Not sure if my switch 5 (right return lane) & 38 (drop target opto) are supposed to be active. The others seem to track your list pretty well.

What are some examples of your game play issues? Might not be an active switch issue.

#9354 53 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I turned my machine on and went straight into active switch test. Here's a list of the switch numbers that showed in my active switch test:
11, 5, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 49, 77, 78, 52, 38, 60
Not sure if my switch 5 (right return lane) & 38 (drop target opto) are supposed to be active. The others seem to track your list pretty well.

What are some examples of your game play issues? Might not be an active switch issue.

#9355 53 days ago

I got myself a game made less than a month ago and it's been a while since I've played Elvira since the Expo in 2019, but I seem to have the same ball stuck place behind the house as the early production models had in 2019. Is there a definitive fix for that?

#9356 52 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

What are some examples of your game play issues? Might not be an active switch issue.

One of my issues is the left of ramp gargoyle target not registering. This is a switch that shows up as active on my list that is not on yours so looks like that is a switch issue in that it is probably stuck on and needs to be adjusted or is miswired or a bad switch.

Another issue I have is that anytime I make the cellar shot into the house (when the ramp is up) the ball never exits the back of the house and the ball search cannot find it. The ball exits the house and is diverted correctly when the ramp is down, but always gets stuck when it is up. Makes the game pretty frustrating since it means one can’t finish a house mode. Sometimes it is released after I turn the game off and back on. Sometimes it is not found until I give the game a vigorous shakedown. So, it sounds like the ball is getting stuck somewhere inside the house and I will have to remove the house so I can see what is happening. I remember seeing something about having to adjust a ball guide or something like that as a common problem with the cellar shot.

I have other issues with things like the balls hitting the edge of the trunk after being released from the garage lock, the plunger shot being slowed too much as it approaches the top lanes, the vuk sending the ball just to the right of the targets instead of hitting one, the ball traveling the outside loop ending up feeding the left sling rather than the flipper, but many of these may just require me to play around with how the game is leveled.

Also have an issue where the plastic piece that holds the backglass in place rattles constantly during game play, even when the unit is locked.

Those are the main things so far, but due to the cellar shot issue, I haven’t had much opportunity to explore the game enough to be sure those will be all the problems I encounter.

#9357 52 days ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

One of my issues is the left of ramp gargoyle target not registering. This is a switch that shows up as active on my list that is not on yours so looks like that is a switch issue in that it is probably stuck on and needs to be adjusted or is miswired or a bad switch.
Another issue I have is that anytime I make the cellar shot into the house (when the ramp is up) the ball never exits the back of the house and the ball search cannot find it. The ball exits the house and is diverted correctly when the ramp is down, but always gets stuck when it is up. Makes the game pretty frustrating since it means one can’t finish a house mode. Sometimes it is released after I turn the game off and back on. Sometimes it is not found until I give the game a vigorous shakedown. So, it sounds like the ball is getting stuck somewhere inside the house and I will have to remove the house so I can see what is happening. I remember seeing something about having to adjust a ball guide or something like that as a common problem with the cellar shot.
I have other issues with things like the balls hitting the edge of the trunk after being released from the garage lock, the plunger shot being slowed too much as it approaches the top lanes, the vuk sending the ball just to the right of the targets instead of hitting one, the ball traveling the outside loop ending up feeding the left sling rather than the flipper, but many of these may just require me to play around with how the game is leveled.
Also have an issue where the plastic piece that holds the backglass in place rattles constantly during game play, even when the unit is locked.
Those are the main things so far, but due to the cellar shot issue, I haven’t had much opportunity to explore the game enough to be sure those will be all the problems I encounter.

Sounds like a bit of a to-do list for tweaks and adjustments. As an update on mine, switch 5 (right return lane) shouldn't have been on for my machine but I slightly adjusted the leaf switch under the playfield and now it's working correctly. On yours, I'd suggest hitting start and rolling the ball by hand through the house to see where it might be getting hung up and then go from there. Hopefully the other issues just take a bit of minor adjustment to work out, like the end of the left orbit ball guide and the deflector on the VUK. For the plunge not reaching the pops, I took slow motion video of mine and it showed me that my ball was veering left a bit before it went into the orbit, so I adjusted that metal shooter lane ramp to keep the ball more to the right and go cleaner into the orbit.

#9358 51 days ago

Still having issues with the Tiki mode (hit either ramp X times). Things seem normal when not in that "mode" but as soon as you hit the right ramp, the count goes from 5 ramp hits needed all the way to the mode starting - in one ramp. And then during the mode, it is constantly registering points. Once mode is over, behavior goes back to normal. The second time, you need 7 ramp hits, but hitting the right ramp once (sometimes twice) starts the Tiki thing again and the constant scoring starts.

It kinda behaves like a stuck/flakey switch, but there are no odd ramp switch triggers in switch test mode, and the constant trigger thing isn't happening between Tiki modes.

Someone suggested I reinstall software. I did the update (not the quick one, whichever option takes the longest), nothing changed. Should I do the new/full SD card version or is there something in the game to look at?

#9359 51 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Still having issues with the Tiki mode (hit either ramp X times). Things seem normal when not in that "mode" but as soon as you hit the right ramp, the count goes from 5 ramp hits needed all the way to the mode starting - in one ramp. And then during the mode, it is constantly registering points. Once mode is over, behavior goes back to normal. The second time, you need 7 ramp hits, but hitting the right ramp once (sometimes twice) starts the Tiki thing again and the constant scoring starts.
It kinda behaves like a stuck/flakey switch, but there are no odd ramp switch triggers in switch test mode, and the constant trigger thing isn't happening between Tiki modes.
Someone suggested I reinstall software. I did the update (not the quick one, whichever option takes the longest), nothing changed. Should I do the new/full SD card version or is there something in the game to look at?

I'm pretty sure it's the power connections to your right ramp opto switch. If you do a switch test and roll a ball past the right ramp opto I bet you'll hear multiple beeps. If you can activate the opto with your finger you'll probably hear multiple rather than just one solid beep. If you do, you'll want to check the connections that power that opto, clean the opto, and lastly replace it. I'll see if I can find what connections to reseat in the manual...

Edit: There are a couple connections leading to CN13. Make sure they have a good connection. You can also adjust the small chip on the right side of the opto to line it up better. It has something to do with that opto not having a solid connection, it's dirty, or not lined up. My guess is the connection.
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#9360 50 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

I'm pretty sure it's the power connections to your right ramp opto switch. If you do a switch test and roll a ball past the right ramp opto I bet you'll hear multiple beeps. If you can activate the opto with your finger you'll probably hear multiple rather than just one solid beep. If you do, you'll want to check the connections that power that opto, clean the opto, and lastly replace it. I'll see if I can find what connections to reseat in the manual...
Edit: There are a couple connections leading to CN13. Make sure they have a good connection. You can also adjust the small chip on the right side of the opto to line it up better. It has something to do with that opto not having a solid connection, it's dirty, or not lined up. My guess is the connection.
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Awesome, thanks for the info, I'll look into this.

Any idea why this would cause the constant scoring thing while in the Tiki mode? I can understand how what you're saying would cause the multiple triggers on the ramp hit, but not sure why Tiki mode explodes with points and then the constant scoring stops when the mode ends.

#9361 50 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Awesome, thanks for the info, I'll look into this.
Any idea why this would cause the constant scoring thing while in the Tiki mode? I can understand how what you're saying would cause the multiple triggers on the ramp hit, but not sure why Tiki mode explodes with points and then the constant scoring stops when the mode ends.

Tiki mode is scored by hitting the ramps. So the opto is giving you ghost hits.
I had a similar issue with an opto on Metallica. It would score numerous sparky hits for one hit. The connection for the opto was loose and not providing consistent power.

#9362 50 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Tiki mode is scored by hitting the ramps. So the opto is giving you ghost hits.
I had a similar issue with an opto on Metallica. It would score numerous sparky hits for one hit. The connection for the opto was loose and not providing consistent power.

OK. Just seems weird that when not in Tiki mode a ramp hit scores a few extra hits, only after making the ramp. However, *during* Tiki mode the score is constantly increasing until the mode ends. I wouldn't think the mode running would dictate whether it's a few ghost hits vs infinite ghost hits.

Anyway, I'll report back after I investigate.

#9363 50 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

Tiki mode is scored by hitting the ramps. So the opto is giving you ghost hits.
I had a similar issue with an opto on Metallica. It would score numerous sparky hits for one hit. The connection for the opto was loose and not providing consistent power.

Except with EHOH the ramp optos are notorious for having alignment issues. A bigger hole usually needs to be drilled for the optos if they are not working correctly.

Rob

#9364 49 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Any idea why this would cause the constant scoring thing while in the Tiki mode? I can understand how what you're saying would cause the multiple triggers on the ramp hit, but not sure why Tiki mode explodes with points and then the constant scoring stops when the mode ends.

See my post #3572. It may help solve your problem.

#9365 49 days ago
Quoted from freegame450:

Recently joined the club. I had the same problem as above. Noticed others on this thread talking about issues with the right ramp opto next to the crypt. I removed my right ramp and found the opto to be securely tight in place, but substantially out of alignment with the holes in the ramp that the opto looks through. See pics. I can’t believe that this sort of stuff gets put on new machines. Easiest fix for me was to make the sight holes a little bigger so the opto could do its job. Factory hole size was approx. 3/16” dia. I carefully opened them up to 5/16” dia. Now all is GOOD and LOVING my new toy.[quoted image][quoted image]

I would try the above fix Cheeks
The opto alignment seems problematic on this pin.

#9366 49 days ago

Well, if Lyman Sheets has really left Stern... I guess we won't see any earth shattering polish to his titles :-/

Anyone know if this rumor is true?

#9367 49 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Well, if Lyman Sheets has really left Stern... I guess we won't see any earth shattering polish to his titles :-/

Anyone know if this rumor is true?

This was my first thought too. Let's hope this isn't true.

#9368 49 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Well, if Lyman Sheets has really left Stern... I guess we won't see any earth shattering polish to his titles :-/
Anyone know if this rumor is true?

Guys, read the whole Lyman-is-out thread. It was refuted by CGC and debunked several times.

#9369 49 days ago

And it doesn’t matter, either way. Lyman wrote code for Data East Star Wars in his basement for years and they pushed an update he did for a 20 year old pin from a defunct company.

#9370 49 days ago

Have seen lots of discussion about not working Gargoyle target, but wondering if I have a unique issue not covered before. I have found this issue in my New In Box that I received last week.

My house left target (left Gargoyle) remains active all the time in test and will not register in the game. This is happening regardless of whether the switch contacts are touching or not touching. I have determined that the L-shaped gargoyle metal cover that sits on and wraps around the gargoyle switch assembly is making contact with the rivet on the back of the switch assembly and, for some unknown reason, this contact is causing the switch to register as active. Since the L shaped cover sits on top of the switch assembly, the target remains active and the gargoyle will not register any hits (won't give credit for hitting the 'g' left gargoyle target). If I block the contact between the rivet and the L-shaped cover, then the switch registers fine, but it is impossible to prevent this contact from happening if the switch and gargoyle are set up in the game as they are supposed to be. I looked at the wiring and the switch is wired the same as all 3 other gargoyle targets, so not an obvious wiring issue.

The distributor I bought the game from looked at the game and came to the same conclusion regarding what was causing the problem, but his fix lasted for only one game, and the issue has returned.

So, is this most likely a bad gargoyle assembly, an indirect grounding/wiring issue, an issue with the node board, or possibly any of these (or something else)?

Has anyone else encountered this problem with a Gargoyle target?

#9371 49 days ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

And it doesn’t matter, either way. Lyman wrote code for Data East Star Wars in his basement for years and they pushed an update he did for a 20 year old pin from a defunct company.

Holy crap, is that true?!

#9372 49 days ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Have seen lots of discussion about not working Gargoyle target, but wondering if I have a unique issue not covered before. I have found this issue in my New In Box that I received last week.
My house left target (left Gargoyle) remains active all the time in test and will not register in the game. This is happening regardless of whether the switch contacts are touching or not touching. I have determined that the L-shaped gargoyle metal cover that sits on and wraps around the gargoyle switch assembly is making contact with the rivet on the back of the switch assembly and, for some unknown reason, this contact is causing the switch to register as active. Since the L shaped cover sits on top of the switch assembly, the target remains active and the gargoyle will not register any hits (won't give credit for hitting the 'g' left gargoyle target). If I block the contact between the rivet and the L-shaped cover, then the switch registers fine, but it is impossible to prevent this contact from happening if the switch and gargoyle are set up in the game as they are supposed to be. I looked at the wiring and the switch is wired the same as all 3 other gargoyle targets, so not an obvious wiring issue.
The distributor I bought the game from looked at the game and came to the same conclusion regarding what was causing the problem, but his fix lasted for only one game, and the issue has returned.
So, is this most likely a bad gargoyle assembly, an indirect grounding/wiring issue, an issue with the node board, or possibly any of these (or something else)?
Has anyone else encountered this problem with a Gargoyle target?

I am having the same issue. NIB game. I'm not sure how to address it either. I was going to take the switch off and reinstall and get a good look.

#9373 49 days ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Have seen lots of discussion about not working Gargoyle target, but wondering if I have a unique issue not covered before. I have found this issue in my New In Box that I received last week.
My house left target (left Gargoyle) remains active all the time in test and will not register in the game. This is happening regardless of whether the switch contacts are touching or not touching. I have determined that the L-shaped gargoyle metal cover that sits on and wraps around the gargoyle switch assembly is making contact with the rivet on the back of the switch assembly and, for some unknown reason, this contact is causing the switch to register as active. Since the L shaped cover sits on top of the switch assembly, the target remains active and the gargoyle will not register any hits (won't give credit for hitting the 'g' left gargoyle target). If I block the contact between the rivet and the L-shaped cover, then the switch registers fine, but it is impossible to prevent this contact from happening if the switch and gargoyle are set up in the game as they are supposed to be. I looked at the wiring and the switch is wired the same as all 3 other gargoyle targets, so not an obvious wiring issue.
The distributor I bought the game from looked at the game and came to the same conclusion regarding what was causing the problem, but his fix lasted for only one game, and the issue has returned.
So, is this most likely a bad gargoyle assembly, an indirect grounding/wiring issue, an issue with the node board, or possibly any of these (or something else)?
Has anyone else encountered this problem with a Gargoyle target?

OK, I wrapped the target with black electrical tape. In switch test it doesn't activate from just the metal touching the outside like before. I'll report back after several plays if it holds up. Not sure if someone has a better idea.

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#9374 49 days ago

I did a similar solution. Put some double sided tape between the rivet and the metal plate the gargoyle sits on and it has worked since. However, would love to know the root cause. For example, did we all get faulty gargoyle switch assemblies that should be replaced? Our solutions fix the symptoms of the issue, but don’t really address the cause of the problem.

#9375 48 days ago

Maybe you two got switches without the insulation between the contacts and that is shorting the switch?

#9376 48 days ago

I pre-ordered this pin last month. Since then, all I have read about here are NIB problems.

Not going to lie, I am not going to spend over $8K just to figure out why my machine isn't working properly.

Seriously reconsidering this purchase!

#9377 48 days ago
Quoted from Beechwood:

I pre-ordered this pin last month. Since then, all I have read about here are NIB problems.

Not going to lie, I am not going to spend over $8K just to figure out why my machine isn't working properly.

Seriously reconsidering this purchase!

There is also a bunch of us who got games from the last build with little to no issues. All I had to do is adjust my shooter lane switch and stern had to replace my lockdown bar action button as the led was bad.

I feel bad for everyone with issues but it seems this are getting solved. Having a good local deal is always a good idea.

#9378 48 days ago

Bought nib and had issue with right gargoyle target. I bent the switch back and it has been working great ever since. Sometimes these things need a little tinkering to get them just right. Very happy. For the most part stern games are solid right out of the box. I have had alot more issues with other manufacturers. Hope you get your issue resolved quickly and can move on to enjoying your game.

#9379 48 days ago

Towards the end of playing last night I noticed that the lock/drop target in the garage wasnt working right. I didnt get to opening it up last night, but Im assuming it might be stuck down. When the game starts around 50k points register and it says lock is lit. Also after getting the first multi ball it happens again and never goes up.

Im sure its something simple in there, but has anyone had this happen before and can suggest what to poke at first when I open it up. I havent worked on a drop target yet.

Thanks!

#9380 48 days ago

According to Pinball News, Lyman left at the end of last year. No wonder we haven't gotten any updates in so long.

https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2021/08/02/steve-ritchie-joins-jjp/

#9381 48 days ago

According to Pinball News, Lyman left at the end of last year. No wonder we haven't gotten any

Sad to hear. Ehoh needed a few more tweaks, but its still one of the best games made in awhile

#9382 48 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

According to Pinball News, Lyman left at the end of last year. No wonder we haven't gotten any updates in so long.
//<![CDATA[
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https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2021/08/02/steve-ritchie-joins-jjp/

Saw that. That really sucks!!

#9383 48 days ago

I mean, there's at least 5 movies on the back glass not represented, even the center figure Eegah.

#9384 48 days ago

Joined the club this weekend with a Premium. Such a fun game!

#9385 48 days ago

Then why was the info about Lyman leaving Stern last year posted in the pinballnews article today?
https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2021/08/02/steve-ritchie-joins-jjp/

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Guys, read the whole Lyman-is-out thread. It was refuted by CGC and debunked several times.

#9386 48 days ago

It blows my mind that no one on this forum can contact him personally and just ask what the plans for Elvira code are.

#9388 48 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

It blows my mind that no one on this forum can contact him personally and just ask what the plans for Elvira code are.

He may not be able to say. But he does lurk on here occasionally… we gotta tell him one more time how awesome this game is!

#9389 48 days ago

Ya, I was really hoping for a wasp woman mode. Love that movie

#9390 48 days ago
Quoted from orangestorm87:

Ya, I was really hoping for a wasp woman mode. Love that movie

Eegah, man that movie is great and he's front and center on the back glass. "Watch out for snakes!"
Attack of the Giant Leeches is there too and so classic!

#9391 48 days ago

If he doesn't work for Stern anymore, maybe we can do a GoFundMe for donations for his time.

#9392 48 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

If he doesn't work for Stern anymore, maybe we can do a GoFundMe for donations for his time.

I’m in

#9393 47 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:If he doesn't work for Stern anymore, maybe we can do a GoFundMe for donations for his time.

As awesome as that idea is, if he doesn’t work for Stern any more I don’t see how he could release any code updates without their blessing.

Whatever the case, I wish him well. Lyman has brought much joy to at least two generations of pinball fans. My first NIB game (Medieval Madness 1977) and last (Elvira 2019), bought 22 years apart, bookend my collection. And then there is my holy grail theme, Batman 66, bought in the box of lights days because Lyman was doing the code.

#9394 47 days ago
Quoted from jfh:

As awesome as that idea is, if he doesn’t work for Stern any more I don’t see how he could release any code updates without their blessing.
Whatever the case, I wish him well. Lyman has brought much joy to at least two generations of pinball fans. My first NIB game (Medieval Madness 1977) and last (Elvira 2019), bought 22 years apart, bookend my collection. And then there is my holy grail theme, Batman 66, bought in the box of lights days because Lyman was doing the code.

There's no way Stern would turn down free code updates for a game. Especially since they were planning on having it and paid for the actress' footage already.

#9395 47 days ago

Lol at the point of having Lymann do GoFundme code updates, we might as well dream Stern provides the tools/api for anyone to make code changes. Open source the whole thing, and see what the community comes up with.

Either way I am looking forward to the exciting September Stern has alluded to for machines and features.

#9396 47 days ago

Hey everybody. New here. I've got a deposit down for the next run on HoH.

Quick question: do any of you have the side armor or do you think it's worth having?

#9397 47 days ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

There's no way Stern would turn down free code updates for a game. Especially since they were planning on having it and paid for the actress' footage already.

Makes common sense, but it would be highly unusual. Stern puts themselves at risk without a formal agreement either as employee or a contractor. One could claim the update was their property and Stern would be against the wall, not to mention putting the warranty into question.

#9399 47 days ago
Quoted from Ruenin:

Hey everybody. New here. I've got a deposit down for the next run on HoH.
Quick question: do any of you have the side armor or do you think it's worth having?

I have them installed and it compliments the game well as well as protect from flipper button wear. I did buy them when they were 229.00 I believe, God only knows what they might be going for now. So it comes down to cost and your taste.

#9400 47 days ago

Too bad the webpage provides no info regarding dimensions of the piece.

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