The lighting on the game is spot on. I really don't think they are needed on this title.

I know this has been talked about quite a bit in the thread but wanted to see if anyone has answers to hand before I go searching. Yesterday my LE started registering constantly on the optos for the ramps. This is the first time it’s happened and it occurred when I moved the game back into position (after some rigorous nudging!).

Any tips on how to dial those optos back into position? Or could it even be node board connectors shunted loose?

Cheers guys.

Hi I am new to pinball and happy owner of an Elvira (a used one). I have a problem with a gate when I shoot the ball from the start from the plunger. The gate is closed behind the house, I can not make the back door skill shot. In the game, the gate works as it should, ie opens when I shoot the right orbit.gate (resized).jpg

Check your shooter lane switch. Go into switch edge test and test it with a ball. I had this same problem and it was just the switch was loose. Others had to adjust the blade a bit.

Thanks for the tip. Yesterday I put down a shooter lane protector. Maybe that’s why. Will check it out when I’m back at home.

That's your issue for sure. I had this when I added my shooter lane protector too.

Happy to report that as of yesterday I am a member of this club. First order of business was to remount the Crypt VUK according to the Stern pdf and that sucker works flawlessly now.

Welcome! Thats the only fix Ive had to do also.

Man I need to do that

Couldn't be easier. Took maybe 5 minutes. I didn't even use anything to measure. Just move it down and align the existing hole like the picture. It's unreal how much that slight tweak frees up that kickout.

Nice. Don’t forget to lay down some Mylar where the ball hits coming out of the VUK. Hitting the same place every time has a tendency to damage the playfield.

What issue does this fix and where does one find this PDF?

It is a key post. The VUK needs to rocket across the playfield and hit the same target every time. This feature was added to the code after the game was released. Most of the games out of the box can’t do this so the fix is required. In order to get rid of a dead head you need to hit the lit target to the left with a carefully timed VUK shot. It can’t be done unless your VUK is working flawlessly.

Were EHOHs that were made later in production given this fix already? I picked up mine used and noticed that I had an extra set of holes under the playfield and the VUK appears to be in the correct spot. I still had to use a Dremel to make the VUK post concave to get it to hit the targets regularly and it still does not consistently hit the same one.

Mine has a build date of June 11, 2020, and it only had the original mounting.

Stern tried to fix the later ones but mostly failed at doing so. There is a lot of trial and error to get it correct and Stern didn’t devote much time to the fix (my opinion). If it is set up correctly there is no need to do the Dremel thing. My game was built day 1. I had to do the Stern fix and change the pitch of assembly by bending it slightly. Ever since then it has been rock solid.

Crazy! Was playing a game... and having a pretty good one too, and just when I got to Gappa Angry, the shaker motor started going crazy fast, the flippers got weak and the motor started smoking! It's supposed to be getting PWM'd 48V to a 12V motor, but apparently the PWM died and just applied full power to the motor. The FET is good on the node board, so I'm guessing the chip that drives the FET (or at least the I/O pin for it) died in the on position. Damn, over voltage motor smoke STINKS! Power cycled game, node board works fine, shaker motor will still run full speed if plugged in.

Anyone ever experience this?

Update:

Checked PWM signal and FET drive, all good. Removed source leg of FET so no path to ground, but motor still spun when plugged in. So... the motor was getting ground from somewhere and the only answer was:
A bad motor! Internal winding must have rubbed thru wire enamel and shorted to armature and grounded thru braid on cabinet. Begs for a fuse in line with the motor since this is a possible failure mode. If that would have happened while I was out of the room, a possible fire and a VERY unpleasant amount of nasty smelling smoke could have occurred.

20210717_171209 (resized).jpg20210717_194519 (resized).jpg

The lighting on this game is coded so well to draw the player in and create an excellent mood. Pinstadiums are a waste of money at the best of times. Only good for those who stream imo.

That was a common issue on TWD. Board had to be replaced. Email Pablo.

Thanks!

Yep the shooter lane protector was the problem. Thank you Pinsidemembers

Exactly! Big waste of money buying them for Elvira. You would ruin the spooky mood and feel of the game. Plenty enough light on Elvira.

Agreed, overkill for some games especially considering the price. But I like to play in the dark and eyes aren’t great so i find myself struggling to see center of the playfield. I’ve got them on my JP2 and DP and medium brightness and really improves my experience.

Exactly, I play it in the dark and they are awesome for that, they also remove all glare. I don’t normally buy them because of the price but I disagree that they ruin the mood.

Everyone does have an opinion. Comes down to personal preference and luckily there’s options to make us all happy and in the end that’s all that matters.

Setting the lights in the head to dim or go off has the same effect for free!

I am aware of that , overhead lighting also causes glare

Have a Elvira Premium - working fine until tonight...stating getting this message - it's struggling with raising lowering cellar ramp - any ideas?

IMG_8920 (resized).jpeg

I had the same issue and for me it was a loose spring that attached to the arm that raises and lowers the ramp along with a ball stuck in the cellar.

Thanks. Will check it out

Excited to finally be in the club. What an incredible hame. I noticed the flasher in my dead head crypt isn’t working in test. Any tips appreciated!

Just got my wizard mods panels for a few games, highly recommend!!

20210720_082353 (resized).jpg

20210720_082631 (resized).jpg

That looks really good. I think I am going to have to order it.

They make a couple of options, pretty sweet.

If anyone is going to Allentown and is interested in buying my apron video display mod or back door sign mod PM me and I can being them to Allentown to avoid shipping costs.

8b2766f2211fedd1b6b9403778507e7da9752787 (resized).jpg

backdoor1 (resized).jpg

It seems like over time my Elvira plunge has gotten less reliable. When I plunge, I get a little rattle right when the ball nears the pop bumpers and then continues along its way. It makes it hard to hit the skill shot based off of muscle memory and becomes more about luck and how much it bounces around....

Im gonna open it up to see if I can figure out what does it tonight. Anyone have any ideas? Would that be a guide rail adjustment or a shooter rod adjustment?
I dont think ive ever adjusted a guide rail, if thats a thing.

A quick thing to check is the playfield alignment if you’ve had it up. You can move it just a little left or right after you lower it back down and that is sometimes enough to center things back up with the shooter rod.

Ah I might have missed that. Thanks!

Mine was really clunky when I first got it. The ball started out straight past the metal forks in the shooter lane, but then it was slightly veering left as it ran across the metal "ramp" of the shooter lane before dropping into the orbit. So it was hitting the inner orbit ball guide to the left of the crypt and rattling, usually not making it to the pops. That metal shooter lane ramp is way too springy and has no support underneath it.

I took the right ramp off and removed the metal shooter lane ramp, and I put something under the left side of that metal ramp about half way up it in order to prop it up so it wouldn't tilt left and so it wasn't so springy. Now the auto launch fires it pretty reliably up the lane and I can manage my manual plunge by how I grip the plunger. There must be just a slight bit of wiggle in my manual plunger that still can make a bit of difference between a clean shot or rattling a little bit. I had to do the same thing on my AIQ to prop that metal shooter ramp up and correct a slight left lean that it had also.

I love the game a ton but I've never achieved PHONE-A-FIEND, like ever, and there are 2-3 modes that you can only get via the SECRET KEY or something, that I never seem to get including one my favorite modes featuring SANTA CLAUS, which I've only seen 2-3 times in about a year+ of owning the game. I realize they wanna make these "secret modes" special but when they barely show up 1 or 2 times a year, why bother programming them all the way through? I think they should make these "secret modes" a little easier to attain. But again, I LOVE the game, so this ain't no complaining. Just stating my preference...

I play in the dark and think they really help. The "spooky" atmosphere and artwork are enhanced by the selectable colors and brightness, not ruined. Just my opinion though.

I hooked the GI lighting to one of the top lane lights and the flasher to the shaker motor. (I don't have a shaker motor installed) Seems to work well for me.

Hi Guys:

Just in case you missed it, I'm selling a NIB Elvira HOH Premium for $9,300 on the Pinside Marketplace.

Topper Double Bone-us! If you loosen the screws of the topper backboard to make a 1 inch gap as pictured, the shadows created look like Elvira coming out of the crypt, breasts first. A directional arrow is also provided in case you didn’t know where it goes.

I hung a Devil’s head Halloween decoration behind the machine and my intent was to illuminate it better by allowing some light through the back of the topper. The result was better than expected. A truly bizarre but cool coincidence.

The Devil’s head is still not illuminated well. Does anyone know a way to install a single flasher light I could run through the topper to light up the Devil’s head behind the machine? Thanks.

17735313-E76D-4FE6-826A-ECFBE828E6C9 (resized).jpeg

29D8655F-4A8A-4E76-A934-CA8FBCC65CFF (resized).jpeg

F5A3CB57-CBFF-4C06-AF46-AFFCCEE0F26D (resized).jpeg

Just bought Elvira LE 356 from a seller in Texas and need the game shipped to California. Besides STI, are there any other reputable freight transport companies that will do pickup, wrapping/packing and shipping on legs cross country? I have a quote from Michelle at STI, but wanted to see if there were any other options recommended. Can’t wait to add this beauty to the collection!

139FFD14-D9FA-4CDA-BBCE-805D6A7835FD (resized).jpeg

4973878F-E6B8-4F70-99E6-AB755C7773C2 (resized).jpeg

D2FBD335-3111-43E4-86E1-D9F8034ADC1A (resized).jpeg

I’ve owned EHOH for a week, but I spent the first few days tweaking and dialing it in. Didn’t get a chance to play much this week. But tonight? Tonight is the night I dug in and learned the rule set and fell in love.

Been having a issue where my left ramp keeps registering constantly. Has anyone else had this issue and how did you fix it.

Check the switch and make sure it’s not closed. I had a couple gargoyle switches that were too close together and touching. I just widened them and no problems since.

Added trough lightening and love it.

006F3343-7D90-4E86-90AB-C85F1B2B5F37 (resized).jpeg

I’ve had my EHoH for almost a month now. I’ve been loving it but it has been kicking my butt pretty consistently. Had my best game by far today even though I totally biffed Gappa Angry and Director’s Cut. I finished all of They Came From Space with 4x running for most of it. Feels really good to have a breakthrough game.

EDE99D20-BFD2-42D8-834D-B86BE9F435CD (resized).jpeg

Always hard to beat a Lyman ruleset.