Thanks!
Quoted from MRG:The Comet channel is showing Santa Claus conquers the martins Saturday at 11 pm Central. Set the DVR
You can watch it anytime if you have Amazon Prime.
However, the movie is a LOT more entertaining if watch one of the riffed versions of it. Your choices are the original MSTK version with Joel an the bots, the Rifftrax version with Mike and the bots, and the Cinematic Titanic version with an older Joel and the mads. All three of these versions are available for free on the Tubi streaming service. I think the original MSTK version is the best of the 3.
There is also the Elvira hosted version from Movie Macbre but I dont think any of the streaming services have that currently.
Quoted from Maverick203b:I got to the Santa mode once last night and I think it was unchanged, but I drained within 30 seconds and I wonder if you have to complete it to see what they added. I have only had the game for a week and have only seen the Santa haunt a couple other times so I will try again today and see if I can complete it. Curious if others have found a change.
Got to the Santa mode twice tonight and completed both times. I'll be honest, the first time I didn't know what to expect because I previously got it so infrequently as I never really tried for specific modes. The second time I tried to watch for something special but didn't really notice anything.
Perhaps its in the video and I was too busy playing to see? Tomorrow I'll have my wife watch and listen when I get into the modem to try to pick up on something. I guess I was expecting something more apparently special.
Quoted from BroMan90:Got to the Santa mode twice tonight and completed both times. I'll be honest, the first time I didn't know what to expect because I previously got it so infrequently as I never really tried for specific modes. The second time I tried to watch for something special but didn't really notice anything.
Perhaps its in the video and I was too busy playing to see? Tomorrow I'll have my wife watch and listen when I get into the modem to try to pick up on something. I guess I was expecting something more apparently special.
I didn't see anything tonight while playing. Maybe whatever the easter egg is will only happen on December 24th or 25th?
Rob
Can someone please write a code hack where Joel and the mst3k bots randomly show up in silhouette and riff on the film footage. Would be such a fun cameo to have in this game.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If he's got access to a recent smartphone, you can take a slow-motion video and see exactly where it's hitting.
I had the same problem, used slow motion video function of my mobile phone, saw the hitting position and reduce the VUK-power slightly (incremental reduction). Now it is 90% OK.
If VUK power is too low the ball is not reaching the opposite target bank anymore. Therefore a kind of compromise.
Quoted from dergroover:I had the same problem, used slow motion video function of my mobile phone, saw the hitting position and reduce the VUK-power slightly (incremental reduction). Now it is 90% OK.
If VUK power is too low the ball is not reaching the opposite target bank anymore. Therefore a kind of compromise.
If you can PM me, I can give you my email to send the video to (if you still have it). Perhaps I can alter the file to prevent this from happening to anyone. PLA is also easily shaped with heat, so if it's a non-cosmetic area, it should be easy to alleviate (while it still sounds like a fairly isolated issue, I'd rather it be 100% without issue).
Quoted from Medisinyl:If you can PM me, I can give you my email to send the video to (if you still have it). Perhaps I can alter the file to prevent this from happening to anyone. PLA is also easily shaped with heat, so if it's a non-cosmetic area, it should be easy to alleviate (while it still sounds like a fairly isolated issue, I'd rather it be 100% without issue).
This may be an unpopular post but your mod isn’t the problem. The factory did a crappy job dialing in this VUK. When correctly set up the ball will rocket across the playfield and hit in the same spot every time (same target). A lot of owners are afraid to mess with this mechanism or give up after it “ kinda” works. Small variations in the VUK alinement will cause the ball to go all over the place. There is no need to concave the striker but it does allow for greater tolerances. Just make sure the VUK is in the correct position on the playfield and then adjust pitch accordingly by bending the brackets slightly. When you get it right you’ll know. Makes a huge difference to the game play. The only downside to having it perfectly set up is the ball strikes the playfield in the same spot as it skips across the surface. Be smart and put some Mylar down in that spot.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Be smart and put some Mylar down in that spot.
That's the first thing I did when opening my game right out of the box. Best way is go into test mode drop a ball in and shoot slow motion video (if you have an iphone that's what I used) and see where the ball lands. Do it about three or four times and cut a nice size circle piece of mylar to encompass that area.
Quoted from theadicts77:The only Stern distributor here is offering $500 off every NIB pin, so naturally i caved in and bought EHOH. Fantastic machine.
NICE! LE or Premium?
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:This may be an unpopular post but your mod isn’t the problem. The factory did a crappy job dialing in this VUK. When correctly set up the ball will rocket across the playfield and hit in the same spot every time (same target). A lot of owners are afraid to mess with this mechanism or give up after it “ kinda” works. Small variations in the VUK alinement will cause the ball to go all over the place. There is no need to concave the striker but it does allow for greater tolerances. Just make sure the VUK is in the correct position on the playfield and then adjust pitch accordingly by bending the brackets slightly. When you get it right you’ll know. Makes a huge difference to the game play. The only downside to having it perfectly set up is the ball strikes the playfield in the same spot as it skips across the surface. Be smart and put some Mylar down in that spot.
The mod is great; no doubt. I am more than happy And reducing a little bit the Coil power is not a big deal.
Indeed it's the guiding metal plate of the VUK-exit which is bouncing after ball contact quite strong. SloMo supports to visualize it
Quoted from Medisinyl:If you can PM me, I can give you my email to send the video to (if you still have it). Perhaps I can alter the file to prevent this from happening to anyone. PLA is also easily shaped with heat, so if it's a non-cosmetic area, it should be easy to alleviate (while it still sounds like a fairly isolated issue, I'd rather it be 100% without issue).
I will contact you to Sen the video files before/after VUK power adjustment. But it does not look to be a mod issue.
Quoted from rai:I've a question, a right orbit shot (coming out the left side) will more often than not hit the top of my left sling, I assume this is not supposed to happen?
.
Quoted from jandrea95:Many were having this issue, myself included. Its a super easy fix fortunately!
Around 3:10 of this video he very well explains the fix. I believe ive seen him in this thread, he has some super helpful videos for noobs (like myself) and veterans alike.
I am having this issue as well.
Unfortunately the video that showed the fix is no longer working.
Anyone who had this issue care to share how you resolved it?
Quoted from RobT:.
I am having this issue as well.
Unfortunately the video that showed the fix is no longer working.
Anyone who had this issue care to share how you resolved it?
Really enjoying this game. But have an issue that sprouted yesterday with the trunk lid. I have searched through posts in this thread and i know i’m not the first person to have it. Nor the last that will.
The lid is opening but not closing properly. The problem is obvious, the hinge screw has become loose and now there is too much slop. But i can’t seem to tighten it. The nut on the inside of the wall spins with the screw, and when i use my thin needle nose pliers to hold the nut the screw is tight and doesnt want to snug up anymore. The pliers dont do a great job at holding the nut and there isnt any room to get a normal wrench in there (even after removing the small plastic exit ramp). The manual does not detail this mech.
I read one post where it was said you need to back off the screw, then tighten then nut. Then retighten the bolt. Is there any more to this? It seems so simple but i havent gotten it to tighten yet. Mind you it was midnight and i was tired and not at my best lol. Heading back down to mess with it again in a bit.
Thx
Quoted from RobT:Thank you kind sir.
Your post should be tagged as a key post.
I had never seen it, I need to adjust mine too. That guy has several good videos.
Quoted from Completist:I read one post where it was said you need to back off the screw, then tighten then nut. Then retighten the bolt. Is there any more to this? It seems so simple but i havent gotten it to tighten yet. Mind you it was midnight and i was tired and not at my best lol. Heading back down to mess with it again in a bit.
Thx
Ok i just took the whole lid off to get a better look. Its not intricate like i suspected. But the issue remains i don’t have anything thin enough that can grab the nut to allow me to draw the bolt in more. I’m also not sure how tight it really should be. Just a little bit of play side to side results in a pretty sloppy hinge.
Where this is affecting me is on the closing of the lid. The metal deflector on the bottom side of lid comes down in top of the back of the metal ball drop chute thingy (trademarking of that name pending). Unless my issue is the deflector has bent back a little and is causing it to catch? Seems unlikely to me.
55AEDD32-8CA1-45B1-9F26-57716E362136 (resized).jpegQuoted from Completist:Ok i just took the whole lid off to get a better look. Its not intricate like i suspected. But the issue remains i don’t have anything thin enough that can grab the nut to allow me to draw the bolt in more. I’m also not sure how tight it really should be. Just a little bit of play side to side results in a pretty sloppy hinge.
Where this is affecting me is on the closing of the lid. The metal deflector on the bottom side of lid comes down in top of the back of the metal ball drop chute thingy (trademarking of that name pending). Unless my issue is the deflector has bent back a little and is causing it to catch? Seems unlikely to me.[quoted image]
I had to bend the metal deflector on mine a little and it fixed the problem.
Quoted from Eagle14:I had to bend the metal deflector on mine a little and it fixed the problem.
Thank you. Tweaked that forward a little and a few play tests later no further issues with it interfering when closing. I still think the hinge bolt could use a bit more tightening but i’ll need to amazon me a thin 5/16 wrench. I’m sure i’ll find more uses for it lol.
Overall i’ve been very pleased. I know my game was a more recent build and i’ve had to do very little to it out of the box. Pretty much just updating the code and f’ing with that lid.
Quoted from Completist:Thank you. Tweaked that forward a little and a few play tests later no further issues with it interfering when closing. I still think the hinge bolt could use a bit more tightening but i’ll need to amazon me a thin 5/16 wrench. I’m sure i’ll find more uses for it lol.
Overall i’ve been very pleased. I know my game was a more recent build and i’ve had to do very little to it out of the box. Pretty much just updating the code and f’ing with that lid.
Go to harbor freight or schucks and buy a cheap set of ignition wrenches
Hey everyone, I have a quick question with (hopefully) an easy fix.... The Gargoyle on the far right hits the glass whenever I hit it cleanly. What is the best way to fix this? Thanks
Quoted from brickbuilder14:Hey everyone, I have a quick question with (hopefully) an easy fix.... The Gargoyle on the far right hits the glass whenever I hit it cleanly. What is the best way to fix this? Thanks
That is a throw back to Scared Stiff leapers and is meant to be that way.
Phoebe
Quoted from Butterflygirl24:That is a throw back to Scared Stiff leapers and is meant to be that way.
Phoebe
Ha wait really? It is supposed to hit the glass?! I stopped playing because I assumed eventually it would damage the gargoyle? So there is no way to adjust that?
Quoted from Butterflygirl24:That is a throw back to Scared Stiff leapers and is meant to be that way.
Phoebe
Mine actually did this for the first time today.
It was awesome!
Quoted from brickbuilder14:Ha wait really? It is supposed to hit the glass?! I stopped playing because I assumed eventually it would damage the gargoyle? So there is no way to adjust that?
It is part of the charm. All 4 should be able to hit the glass.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:It is part of the charm. All 4 should be able to hit the glass.
This is just my opinion, but I did not like them hitting the glass. I modified mine by adding some heat shrink tubing and a zip tie to limit the travel. It's easily reversible and requires no permanent modification.
The one shown is from the crypt entrance.
For the record, I do like how the ball hits the glass on WH2O.
Quoted from Rob_G:This is just my opinion, but I did not like them hitting the glass. I modified mine by adding some heat shrink tubing and a zip tie to limit the travel. It's easily reversible and requires no permanent modification.
The one shown is from the crypt entrance.
For the record, I do like how the ball hits the glass on WH2O.
Rob
[quoted image]
Didn’t they ship with little retainer rubbers on them ?
To each their own but the game designer designed them to hit the glass just like they do in Scared Stiff. It is a Dennis Nordman signature feature.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:To each their own but the game designer designed them to hit the glass just like they do in Scared Stiff. It is a Dennis Nordman signature feature.
Would this eventually damage the coating on the HD glass or is the coating on the top of the glass?
Quoted from rogerdodger:Would this eventually damage the coating on the HD glass or is the coating on the top of the glass?
The glass Stern uses has the coating on the top.
I like them hitting the glass so much I put a small amount of wax on them. They really jump now!! Not worried about buildup, easy to pull and clean.
Was excited to try the 3M on the VUK. Unfortunately, this did not work for me. Tried moving the tape around a few different spots but still only hits the targets about 25% of the time. Lowering the power center from anything but max only made it worse.
Slow motion shows the ball hitting the top of the chute on the way out.
Quoted from BroMan90:Was excited to try the 3M on the VUK. Unfortunately, this did not work for me. Tried moving the tape around a few different spots but still only hits the targets about 25% of the time. Lowering the power center from anything but max only made it worse.
Slow motion shows the ball hitting the top of the chute on the way out.
Quoted from BroMan90:Was excited to try the 3M on the VUK. Unfortunately, this did not work for me. Tried moving the tape around a few different spots but still only hits the targets about 25% of the time. Lowering the power center from anything but max only made it worse.
Slow motion shows the ball hitting the top of the chute on the way out.
Check out post #2518. If that doesn’t work let us know. The next step is a little more drastic.
Quoted from jfh:The last step in #2518 says to use a shorter screw. Anyone know a good size to use?
Quoted from dgilmore80:When they say to use a shorter screw, I just threaded a nut on the original screw before I installed it. Shortened the screw enough that it worked perfectly.
Or, just use a couple washers...
Quoted from Rob_G:I did not like them hitting the glass.
...
For the record, I do like how the ball hits the glass on WH2O.
Makes perfect sense.
I put a deposit down for a premium with Orange County pinball. He had a couple spots left. I am new to pinball and bought my first NIB pins this year MBr SE and BKSOR premium from them back in August and September 2020.
Will Stern meet those orders if they give an authorized dealer X amount of units to take deposits for? My wife and kids really want this pin and I have Stranger Things premium arriving tomorrow for Christmas. Wish it was Elvira but what can you do.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:I put a deposit down for a premium with Orange County pinball. He had a couple spots left. I am new to pinball and bought my first NIB pins this year MBr SE and BKSOR premium from them back in August and September 2020.
Will Stern meet those orders if they give an authorized dealer X amount of units to take deposits for? My wife and kids really want this pin and I have Stranger Things premium arriving tomorrow for Christmas. Wish it was Elvira but what can you do.
Did they give you an ETA?
Word is that Stern won't have Elvira back on the line until "spring 2021" which can mean anytime between March and June.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Will Stern meet those orders if they give an authorized dealer X amount of units to take deposits for?
Stern has not made a “last call” for Elvira to dealers so any dealer with confirmed orders should get one, though not necessarily from the April run. However I think the deposit requirement is from the dealer, not Stern.
Quoted from RobT:Did they give you an ETA?
Word is that Stern won't have Elvira back on the line until "spring 2021" which can mean anytime between March and June.
March April but I expected past that date tbh
Quoted from jfh:Stern has not made a “last call” for Elvira to dealers so any dealer with confirmed orders should get one, though not necessarily from the April run. However I think the deposit requirement is from the dealer, not Stern.
Ok thank you. Wasn’t sure. But can’t wait to get her in my collection. Such a deep and fun game that really surprised me. Didn’t look that deep at first glance.
Quoted from RobT:Makes perfect sense.
Of course it does because it's a completely different sound effect. I'm sorry if my blasphemy offends you
Rob
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