(Topic ID: 243276)

Elvira and the Party Monsters Playfield Swap/Refresh


By dmacy

57 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 73 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Spyderturbo007
  • Topic is favorited by 15 Pinsiders

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There are 73 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 20 days ago

Damn, how did I miss this thread.

Anyway, it looks awesome, as usual.

I have four games that have been re-done by dmacy and he does kick ass work.

#52 20 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Really enjoy following this thread
Great work so far.
What are you doing with the old playfield? Would you sell it?

It’s not mine to sell but I’m sure he’ll reach out if he wants to sell it.

#53 20 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Damn, how did I miss this thread.
Anyway, it looks awesome, as usual.
I have four games that have been re-done by dmacy and he does kick ass work.

I’m still waiting for you to get those Velcro gloves back out!

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#54 20 days ago

Lamp harness is completely placed and installed. Solenoid harness is placed and flashers are fastened.

My least favorite part in process: switch replacement. 2 down. Too many to go.

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#55 18 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

It’s not mine to sell but I’m sure he’ll reach out if he wants to sell it.

Dibs via PM on May 24!

Either way this thread is helping me prepare for when I eventually shop out my EATPM, playfield swap or not.

#56 15 days ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

Dibs via PM on May 24!
Either way this thread is helping me prepare for when I eventually shop out my EATPM, playfield swap or not.

Yes, you were the first. The owner isn’t sure if he’s keeping it yet. But the playfield will be with me not going anywhere until the swap is done.

#57 15 days ago

Note on this title: There’s a pair of diodes by each slingshot GI lamp. Diodes and tubing replaced.

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#58 15 days ago

Switch replacements never seem to end! About 2/3 through the playfield switches at this point. There’s still more fun coming when doing the ramp switches!

My method for installing switches on the playfield regardless of (good or bad dimpling):

First compare with original playfield line up.

Then line up the switch close to original line up on new playfield. I square and line up centering the switch to line up the best as it can.

Using a spring loaded/automatic center punch, mark the holes.

Then use your drill and bit (make sure to use a drill stop and check it’s gap regularly along with a smaller drill bit than the screw size!) and drill.

Install the switch making sure to be centered and cinch down by hand. The last part is checking the switch by the click sound and with a ball. You really can’t adjust them correctly IMHO without a ball. There may be a few you’ll need to test with playfield installed and powered up. But I’ve found this method for me to be best and usually requires little to no adjustments once installed.
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#59 15 days ago

Everyone has there own method of installing which harness first. I’ve done it all different ways. Most titles seem to be working best for me to install the GI/insert lamp harness first. I’ve had so many of the yellow solid GI wiring get brittle and break doing it last so I like to get it out of the way.

Solenoid harness usually second so I can get flash lamps installed. This can be tricky to do last I’ve found snaking to coils and soldering. YMMV.

Switch harness last because that works best for me. Often I have targets already installed so the harness is pretty sparse. On this one, the targets and decals are in good shape so we’re not replacing. Just the microswitches and pop switches.

Progress today:

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#60 13 days ago

Took a liberty with this plastic. Have seen others that just have the screw but not stud with nut. Changed to what plastic uses but note this may not be as designed. Easily changed back if wanted.

Before and after:

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#61 13 days ago

Here’s the playfield with all the switches replaced and installed. All the switches have been tested with balls: ball locks, ball trough, inland, outlines, etc.

Some of these switches, like sling switches, will get the second screw installed in play testing.

We are getting pretty close underside. Pop switches and solenoid wiring needs done.
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#62 9 days ago

GI testing before it comes off the rotisserie. Almost done other than the very bottom back coils, switches and some wire management.

For now, we are filling CT’s kit for playfield GI. Frosted cools, a few red and greens. They may change, but they all look good and working.

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#63 9 days ago

Beautiful job

#64 8 days ago

Ok, now I need to order a spring loaded center punch...great tip

#65 8 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Ok, now I need to order a spring loaded center punch...great tip

I can’t take credit for the punch as someone else shared it. But it is perfect and makes a nice dent that is easily seen and drill bit falls into it.

#66 8 days ago

We made contact! It fell in, well not literally, but unlike some playfields this one went in not tight (neither did original) but perfect. It doesn’t bind and is smooth moving up and down. The front brackets needed minor adjustments to land but that’s expected.

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#67 7 days ago

Here's the 5 large post locations. Two 4.5" posts, one 4.5" hex post, one 3.5" post, and one 3.25" post. I had to open up a few of the round post holes that have studs going through the playfield. Not much, but slightly so worth mentioning.

Sorry for the bad drawing but you get what you pay for!
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#68 7 days ago

Boogie Mech Bracket: it was cracked but hard to tell until the coil was removed. Apparently this is pretty common and it is pretty thin gauge. Some small L brackets with JB Weld. Would be great if someone had a bracket to see if Kerry from Mantis could replicate. I'd think most all of them out there will need one.

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#69 7 days ago

i love this thread

#70 5 days ago

She lives! A few trough adjustments, replacing a bad cement resistor at R9 on interconnect board, and it’s 100%.

Still play testing and tweaking but so far it’s super brutal fast and playing great.

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#71 4 days ago

Made some more tweaks today. The left ramp flap was remade to be longer on both sides. The new ramp had rivet that was too long and the balled up slack caused extra thickness and the ramp flap being so short had a bulge.

Also went with the original skull as it looks way more detailed. He repro looks good and fits great and even glow in the dark. Ended up trimming off the front right support at ramp as it was broken and were concerned it would just crack again if repaired. So it was trimmed off like the repro and sanded down.

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#72 4 days ago

Finished up with boogie monsters installed. Final switches adjusted, and latest ROMS installed.

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#73 3 days ago

It looks so shiny.

Kick as job, as always!

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